Help I have a black truck

[nineeights10ss]

Alright, I figured this was the place to ask.;... My black truck is in need of actually looking black again. I need to get out acid rain marks and other nonsense....if anyone really knows how to buff a car into looking new again i'd appreciate it

[Derek@2020Kustoms]

I have a black truck so I feel your pain. Everyone will have their own opinion on polish, wax, buffers, etc. but here is MY process and the products that I use.

1) Wash
2) Clay entire Truck.
3) Poorboy's SSR1 with Buff & Shine Black Polishing pad with Porter Cable at around 4-5rpm
4) Poorboy's SSR2.5 with Buff & Shine Yellow Cut pad with Porter Cable around 4-5rpm
5) Back to step #3
6) Adam's Brilliant Spray Glaze by hand with a microfiber appplicator
7) Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection Sealant by hand with a microfiber appplicator
8) Natty's Paste Waxby hand with a microfiber appplicator

Of course remove every polish/glaze/wax step with a clean microfiber towel. The key is good products and a Porter Cable 7336 or 7424. A Porter Cable is idiot proof and provides results you couldn't by hand.

[sdime98]

i really need to do somethin with my paint, but pollen looks bad on black regardless....damn spring...

[Waynestowels]

Quote: Originally Posted by nineeights10ss

Alright, I figured this was the place to ask.;... My black truck is in need of actually looking black again. I need to get out acid rain marks and other nonsense....if anyone really knows how to buff a car into looking new again i'd appreciate it

There isn't a product that can be simply wiped onto a car and will erase acid rain damage. The damage is much more serious than that.

Portions of your clearcoat have been eaten away be the acid rain. The only ways I know how to "fix" this are:

1. Use a polishing compound and a high speed buffer and literally grind down the clearcoat so the spots are leveled out.

2. Wetsand the car with a light wet/dry sandpaper (1500-2000 grit) which basically does the same thing as #1.

Obviously this grinding of the clearcoat reduces the amount on the car which is not good for long term paint life. But there are no methods I know of short of a complete respray of clear to fix this problem.

Sorry for the bad news.

Now for the good news...,
"If" is has not had a chance to eat through the paint, try white vinegar to remove the spots first, then polish, starting with a light polish and move up in agressiveness as needed.

3M makes some of the best polishes available for this, they are ISO Certified and very "cutting edge" technology (no pun intended, LOL!!)

Hope this helps...

[Dallas@2020Kustoms]

Hey, check out this thread:

I took that truck from lookin' like @ss to shinin' like glass!

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f74/oxidization-175591/


Truly amazing what the right techniques and products will do for you! I swear this guy washed his truck with a wire brush!!

If you need any further details feel free to ask!

[Waynestowels]

Looks nice!!

Unfortunately, we both know what etching is and polishing with a PC will not remove it
(if in fact it is etched and not just spots)

A PC with any polish will create a shine, but will not remove severe defects...,
As a detailer, we know why that is not possible with a R.O. polisher and only a Rotary Buffer will remove or correct the really bad areas.

A polisher such as the PC does dot generate the heat to do any major paint correction..., the same reason it is a "fool proof" machine, it does not generate the heat needed to "correct paint" and the reason a Rotary is capable of quickly "burning" paint...

If it is in fact acid "etched" and not "stained" (look up etching in the dictionary), the etched defect is "in" the paint, the stained defect is "on" the paint.
Etching must be removed by sanding, heat or repainting.

Just basic detailing facts...

Hope this helps

[Dallas@2020Kustoms]

I don't recall anyone saying they had "severe defects". The PC indeed does have it's limitations but I've also found that with some perserverance and a good quality product like Poorboys SSR2.5 you can achieve vast improvements. (as shown) I think anyone would be happy with themselves and the results from simple polishing with a PC. It's definitely a step in the right direction.

For the most part only someone that is skilled and trained should be on the end of a rotary. Because it can actually cause more harm than good in the wrong hands. If someone's paint is really that severely damaged I'd highly recommend them taking it to a professional.

If someone's paint is that bad I'd actually say screw any detailing and find yourself a bodyshop.

Again, no one promises or miracles, but there's always room for improvement that can usually fit into anyone's budget.

[nineeights10ss]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll probably be looking to get some stuff this weekend and tackle this little project.

[Waynestowels]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dallas@2020Kustoms

I don't recall anyone saying they had "severe defects".

I am not here to debate or argue, only help those with a question

IMO, a "severe defect" would be acid rain etching.
(it does not get much worse than etching unless it is past the clear coat, down to the primer or metal, which in many cases that is what etching does...

Etching will not be removed with a PC, if in fact it is etched, which at this time no one is sure of.

I do agree that a rotary should only be used by someone with skills to use one.
I am sure if anyone looks at the car lots they will agree

When we purchased my wifes truch off the car lot, this was in the "buyers agreement"-

If they wash, polish or in any way "clean" our truck, the contract is void and we will not buy the truck.
I have looked at too many vehicles with swirls and marring on a car lot and did not want anyone touching the vehicle if I was signing a contract to purchase it.

I also agree, if the damage is from acid rain and etched, your best bet (if you are not experienced), is to visit a reputable detailer.
Ask to see his work in person (too many tricks can happen witha camers, everything from photochopping to angles and lighting)

In person you will be able to see first hand the type of work they do...
A professional shop should have "test panels" for you to see the work on and for demonstrating.
After the demonstration is finished, take a 100% cotton ball and a bottle of alcohol.
Now, wipe down a portion of the panel that you knew was bad.
If the marks come back, you want to find another detailer or ask to see his skills without using glazes, concealers or fillers as you are paying to have the defects "removed", not "covered".

Hope this helps you get your truck in A-1 condition and with the least amount of price charged and the least amount of further damage to the paint

Let us know how it turns out

[nineeights10ss]

Thanks again wayne....now just time to get some money..

[Waynestowels]

Glad to help out