A Good Wax?

[thunder94]

yeah, I'm in the safe zone time wise, I used Eagle One Nanowax last year on my 13 year old factory paint and I liked it because it always looked wet.

[wagonproject]

Agreed, we usually tell people after we do work to wait 90 days till they wax. You need to give the clear time to cure. I would just keep your washing/drying good (using 2 bucket method, grit guards, drying with WV towels, etc) to minimize the paint damage.

[GearHead_1]

WagonProject's advice is great. I would add that MicroFibre WV's would be preferable as a means of drying. Not to go to far down the curing road but since we've talked about it, paints that are heat cured (baked) dramatically decrease curing time and are good to go in short order.

[wagonproject]

Yeah we bake a lot of our jobs, but like a lot of shops, were trying to get them in and out so they make not be baked for very long, or not hot enough, or just not baked. Yes I know its bad, but hey im just a worker there, lol. (we mostly do semi's/tractor trailers)

[TokoDragon]

I use turtle wax ICE, not saying it's the best, but it's the easiest and looks good. and if you forget a spot it doesn't leave white residue and stuff. So for the more novice people ice is a fool-proof wax.

I use Dupont teflon wax too and it's not bad.

I want to try more high end brands and see if they can buff out some of my swirl marks.

[tt85_GM]

Do other Pewter paint owners find that the Pewter is the easiest to clean?, I sometimes just wipe it off with a clean chamois and it leaves no scratches or swirl marks, plus pewter kinda hides the dirt

But obviously wax is the best way to clean.

[wagonproject]

Quote: Originally Posted by TokoDragon

I use turtle wax ICE, not saying it's the best, but it's the easiest and looks good. and if you forget a spot it doesn't leave white residue and stuff. So for the more novice people ice is a fool-proof wax.

I use Dupont teflon wax too and it's not bad.

I want to try more high end brands and see if they can buff out some of my swirl marks.

Well if your trying to get rid of the swirl marks, I would try some compounds. Its not the best to try by hand, but if you don't have a buffer then its better than nothing. I would look into a buffer. You can get a DA style buffer that pretty fool proof and not risk any paint damage. Or just step up to a reg. buffer and practice on junk parts first. If your looking to "hide" the marks, you can try some glazes, though you'll need to reapply them.

[636andy636]

Quote: Originally Posted by ACE2790

Real zymol is pretty good, the stuff you posted is a "retail" version and is only a cleaner wax.

If I remember correctly, real Zymol has to be refrigirated when not being used due to the high amount of actual Carnuba in it.

Caranuba wax is solid at room temp, melts at 80 degrees celcius. Its all the other additives zymol puts in the wax that needs to be refrigerated not the caranuba its self.

[GearHead_1]

I've had some of the mid range priced Zymols ($200 - $300), they don't require refrigeration. I don't know about Royal however but I wouldn't think it does either.

[Bruizer]

NuFinish is pretty good.

[OBrienChevSuper10]

if you can find it Malco Poly-shine works amazing. it leaves a deep gloss but doesnt leave a greasy feel like some waxes and its extremely easy to apply and remove.

[ACE2790]

Quote: Originally Posted by 636andy636

Caranuba wax is solid at room temp, melts at 80 degrees celcius. Its all the other additives zymol puts in the wax that needs to be refrigerated not the caranuba its self.

Oh, well I was close.

[MikeInCtown]

Adding to last:

Over the years I've used just about everything. I found years ago that the Blue Zymol wax sold through auto retailers not labeled as a cleaner/wax works awesome and is super easy to wipe off.

I've also tried Wax Shop stuff as they used to sell it at Summit Racing. It also worked well, but was kind of expensive at the time.

Tried and true is the 3 step Meguires (sp?) and I even use this stuff when polishing the pens I make. (hobby)

I recently got one of those Mothers Power Ball for Paint deals and it came with a trial bottle of their new SynWax. I have to say that the power ball for paint is one top notch product. I've used it on my motorcycle and on my 96 s-10 and 2001 jimmy. Since I have a load of batteries and no outlets to plug into, the ball is perfect. The wax goes right on and wipes off super easy. I'm about to order up some of the Mother's Reflection products (wax and top coat) to see how well they work since other mothers products have treated me well.

if you have a machine to use, all body supply stores carry 3M stuff and all their bottles of glaze. swirl remover, and other products work well but the price is up there for a small bottle. Never tried hand rubbing it myself.

Havent't tried the ICE wax, but I did use the ICE for interiors a few weeks back. Holy Crap!! was that an awesome product. I've never put anything on my interior that didn't leave it feeling slick or oily before. The ICE stuff left the dash and everything else feeling smooth, clean, and shiney without so much as a residue left on my fingers when I rubbed. To say I was impressed was an understatement.

[TOMMYGUNZZSS]

yeah i just bought a hand polisher for my truck and the wife's trailblazer. I have a black truck a live the black diamond wax I had. I bought it at World of Wheels a couple years back. I also like the Paint Shop that was mentioned before. On the wifes I like the Dupont with teflon. Just makes it feel so good. I detailed cars at a dealership for a while and in the bod shop so I picjed up little things here and there plus i'm pretty anal when it gets to cleaning my cars.