interior sanded plastics, need more attention?

[Slappy McNasty]

just sanded these down when i had some free time (maybe 3 hours total in both).
1. do they look to be reeady for high fill primer, base coat, kandy and clear?
or.
2. need more sanding to prevent too many layers of prime/paint/clear.
.
before i started, charcoal grey texture.

.
after sanding

[Slappy McNasty]

............wow, pics suck, sorry

[Dork]

Keep sanding till all the texture is gone. Work you way down to finer grits like 220 or so before priming. You are also going to need to use a plastic adhesion promoter to put on before the primer. I've had pretty good luck with bulldog and you can get it in a spray can. Also when you get most of the texture out, switch over to wet sanding as it seems to work better making plastic smoother.

[neo71665]

You need to keep sanding until you can't see or can barely see any texture left. It took me almost 3 weeks of sanding my door panels with power tools in my spare time before they were smooth enough to my likings.

[ExtremeVI]

Def sand some more

[Slappy McNasty]

at it again, all damn day. this sh*t sucks the rangers nutts man. i now have a much deeper admiration for painted interiors............
any dark areas is just water. cleaned & wiped em as i took pics.......

[neo71665]

Only saving grace I had was on first gen 2 door blazers most everything behind the rear seats was some fiberglass type stuff and sanded real nice. Everything in front of the seats was a major PITA.

[BarelyGettinBy]

They look ready from the pics. Just make sure all texture is gone and like he said above use some kind of adehesion promoter

[old_skool_noma]

yep get rid of every little bit of texture, i love my random orbit and 80 grit for that

[sik_kreations_951]

i use 80 grit then go back over with 180 all da. then adpro, then 2k primer. then i let sit for a few days in the sun. block with 220 on da. primer again. wetsand then paint. ive sanded more interior plastics and painted then anyone on here.

[sykominitrkr]

I started with a REALLY low grit sand paper, then went higher, and higher 'til I finally got up to a 1000 grit.

[droppedss]

This is what mine looked like before primer, then wetsanding and then paint/clear



And the following winter I did round 2 of interior painting. these are again before primer and paint/clear. Everyone will have a different opinion for the most part. The method that I use and what was taught to me by a very good friend (who has sprayed all the interior paint/clear is to sand sand sand until all the texture is gone. Using a nice build primer lay that down pretty thick so you have a good amount to wet sand through. Continue this process until the piece is smooth as a babies ass, and if there are any doubts, do it again lol. When it's 110% perfectly smooth, and all edges that would show are pefect as well (I made this mistake) then paint clear. I'll be doing my xcab panels and door panels in the next few weeks in pewter and some dash/door pieces on the daily sierra (in black).

[dimedragin22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by sik_kreations_951

i use 80 grit then go back over with 180 all da. then adpro, then 2k primer. then i let sit for a few days in the sun. block with 220 on da. primer again. wetsand then paint. ive sanded more interior plastics and painted then anyone on here.

who makes adpro ? and what do you use to fill factory groves in the plastic, i was think lord fusor 100ez?

[Maverick2664]

Quote: Originally Posted by sykominitrkr

I started with a REALLY low grit sand paper, then went higher, and higher 'til I finally got up to a 1000 grit.

bad move, your paint will flake off eventually, 1000 grit is WAY too fine for primer or even basecoat to stick to, you should have only taken it to 180-220

[Slappy McNasty]

all posts and info given has been a wealth of knowledge,. thank you all for your time and assistance

[sykominitrkr]

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

bad move, your paint will flake off eventually, 1000 grit is WAY too fine for primer or even basecoat to stick to, you should have only taken it to 180-220

I flexed the plastic, and everything, and it seemed fine, but if it chips, then I'll just repeat the process... no biggie.

[sik_kreations_951]

Quote: Originally Posted by dimedragin22s

who makes adpro ? and what do you use to fill factory groves in the plastic, i was think lord fusor 100ez?

my bad... i was just sayin adpro for short of adhesion promoter. what grooves u talking about?

[dimedragin22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by sik_kreations_951

my bad... i was just sayin adpro for short of adhesion promoter. what grooves u talking about?

gotta yea, on 00-04 silverado/tahoe the dash trim around gauges/stereo

see the grove that goes around the swtich/vent

[sik_kreations_951]

Quote: Originally Posted by dimedragin22s

gotta yea, on 00-04 silverado/tahoe the dash trim around gauges/stereo

see the grove that goes around the swtich/vent

2 part epoxy fr to take it out then primer, then glaze(if it needs it) then primer again., .......................sometimes in a pinch, epoxy primer... duraglass/marglass...primer... ya i know. the shop im at they changed their ways since ive been around.

[GOTDUBZ]

I started at 80 and went all the way to 1000 using filler primer in between but not after 1000. I also used Bulldog adhesive promoter. You want it as smooth as possible with no imperfections. Mine looks just like the exterior.
Also it's been done for probably 3 years with no problems.

[sykominitrkr]

Yeah, I used filler primer too, but not after the 1000... I used the 1000 for some wet sanding, and final touches.

[sik_kreations_951]

1000 grit should not be used at all.

u want the plastic to be in the 150 to 180 grit along with adhesion promoter. since alot of the plastics dont stick and the super coarse scratch helps.

never over apply primer, it will shrink and crack. always sand out texture.

[tyhodge07]

ive used 180, than jumped to an 800 to wet sand. i have mine alittle rough and than was going to prime and wet sand some more with 800 than should i prime again than or just throw the adhesive promotor on than paint?

[Maverick2664]

wow theres a lot of incorrect procedure in here

- clean parts with hot soapy water, dry completely
- sand texture out with 150-180, clean part again (blow off, wash, whatever)
- adhesion promoter, and dont over do it, follow the directions
- prime, probably 3 coats should be enough if you sanded them correctly before hand
- wetsand with 400-600
- seal and paint (if you didnt break the primer anywhere, you can go right to base)

1000 grit SHOULD NOT BE USED... its too fine for adhesion of anything, the purpose of 1000 grit - 3000 grit is for buffing only, not for paint prep

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

wow theres a lot of incorrect procedure in here

- clean parts with hot soapy water, dry completely
- sand texture out with 150-180, clean part again (blow off, wash, whatever)
- adhesion promoter, and dont over do it, follow the directions
- prime, probably 3 coats should be enough if you sanded them correctly before hand
- wetsand with 400-600
- seal and paint (if you didnt break the primer anywhere, you can go right to base)

1000 grit SHOULD NOT BE USED... its too fine for adhesion of anything, the purpose of 1000 grit - 3000 grit is for buffing only, not for paint prep

so I shouldnt use 1000grit to sand my stuff than huh, ? J/k .

This thread makes me want to do my interior again now...Atleast the preping of the bpillars, apillars, and smaller pieces. Dumb question, but a black and decker sander, is that ok to use? I dont have a compressor or a anything like that and the black and decker is the only thing i got that is electrical vs. using my fingers...which i dont want ot do if not needed.

[Maverick2664]

Quote: Originally Posted by llorracs93s10

so I shouldnt use 1000grit to sand my stuff than huh, ? J/k .

This thread makes me want to do my interior again now...Atleast the preping of the bpillars, apillars, and smaller pieces. Dumb question, but a black and decker sander, is that ok to use? I dont have a compressor or a anything like that and the black and decker is the only thing i got that is electrical vs. using my fingers...which i dont want ot do if not needed.

you could probably use it, but those electric sanders really move fast, much higher than a DA so watch for soft or melting plastic lol, but that aside, you can use it to cut the bulk of the work load down but you should still hand sand it afterward to even things out like flat spots and whatnot

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

you could probably use it, but those electric sanders really move fast, much higher than a DA so watch for soft or melting plastic lol, but that aside, you can use it to cut the bulk of the work load down but you should still hand sand it afterward to even things out like flat spots and whatnot

well i did my apillars already, and they are damn smooth, just the ends need more work b/c they are a little gritty still. But they are baby smooth now in the middle. It just seemd like with that hand or palm sander i have took forever with 80 gritt i used. I believe i used 80, its been a while, lol

[tyhodge07]

do i want the texture completly gone as in you dont see anything at all but grey plastic?

im sanding and sanding in areas and i still have little black spots of texture but to the feel of it i dont feel the texture. would the primer and such fill them in enough before i wet sand for the paint to still lay smooth or do i need to keep sanding the same spot for another 30 mins, lol?

[Maverick2664]

keep sanding, you want the texture all gone, the problem with relying on the primer to fill it, is that primer shrinks, and in about a months time youll be the proud new owner of an interior with a really ugly texture

and its just all around bad procedure, you never want to rely on the primer and paint to cover up a bad substrate

[tyhodge07]

alright, i didnt know if it was from sanding the higher level off down to the lower and just leaving the little black spots but still in a smooth feel.. i guess i got many hours left to do than still, lol.. this sucks thinkin i got 1 more to go after this one.

[llorracs93s10]

Im actually excited to start my pieces, soon as i park her. But i want to know how you guys do the door panels. Like i want to keep the stock shapes, but i want to know how its wrapped to gglass it correctly.

[neo71665]

Why are you glassing it, sand it smooth and paint it.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

Why are you glassing it, sand it smooth and paint it.

see i dont know wat i am doing, lol. After reading alittle bit, i see thats wat ppl do. I guess the only reason i would glass the panel is if i wanted to do a speaker in the lower panel.

[tyhodge07]

either way, glassing or just sanding the panel your gonna have alot of fun with the sanding process, lol.. alot of work ahead of you.

[old_skool_noma]

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

you could probably use it, but those electric sanders really move fast, much higher than a DA so watch for soft or melting plastic lol, but that aside, you can use it to cut the bulk of the work load down but you should still hand sand it afterward to even things out like flat spots and whatnot

thats why i love my random orbit, speed control !!!! although ive had the speed maxed out and still never melted anything

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by old_skool_noma

thats why i love my random orbit, speed control !!!! although ive had the speed maxed out and still never melted anything

let me get a link to that...my one sucks and i got annoyed with it only after 30 mins of usage.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by tyhodge07

either way, glassing or just sanding the panel your gonna have alot of fun with the sanding process, lol.. alot of work ahead of you.

correct me if i am wrong, but the center section of the door panel is already decently smooth isnt it? I mean the upper region that goes around the inner handle/lock, that is textured, but the center is not so much. None the less, i am still excited to start this.

[old_skool_noma]

http://www.apexinds.com/tools/ATT840247.html

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by llorracs93s10

correct me if i am wrong, but the center section of the door panel is already decently smooth isnt it? I mean the upper region that goes around the inner handle/lock, that is textured, but the center is not so much. None the less, i am still excited to start this.

You're corrected, they are both textured and if you only smooth one part its really gonna look like ass.

[tyhodge07]

yea, all the stuff you want to be smooth is textured.. it may not look like much, but wait until you get started, you will understand what i mean by "not lookin like much" lol.. im 1 panel down, 1 to go. actually 1 door down, i got the other trim piece done also. kick panels and a couple other plastic pieces to go.

[tyhodge07]

Quote: Originally Posted by old_skool_noma

http://www.apexinds.com/tools/ATT840247.html

mine i used is a square b and d one. its not orbital but worked pretty well. i just did circular motions as it vibrated (not soundin good, lol) until smooth, ofcourse not stayin in one section to long to prevent the melting of the panel.

[old_skool_noma]

try a random orbit, its quieter and goes faster IMO the really nice thing is that i can take the dust bag off and hook up a shop vac and i have almost no dust to deal with,

i start with 80 and go up to 120, then 180, then sometimes 220, or ill just skip to 320 and wipe it down with prep all or windex

[neo71665]

I used a mouse for most of mine, lol.
http://base0.googlehosted.com/base_m...1&hl=en&mode=1

used one of these for the flatter areas

[tyhodge07]

i used the one in the pic for most of it. worked pretty good.

[neo71665]

****, guess google aint gonna let me post the pic of the mouse

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

I used a mouse for most of mine, lol.
http://base0.googlehosted.com/base_m...1&hl=en&mode=1

used one of these for the flatter areas

thats pretty much the one i am useing actually ,lol. And i didnt mean tha ti woudlnt sand the center, i just meant by the looks, it looks less textured.