Autobody and Paint Terminology / Knowledge

[paint toad]

i'm going to try to throw together a paint sticky...

i'll do my best to keep this organized.

spray techniques
buffing 1
buffing 2
defects 1
defects 2
defects 3(from ppg)
the gun
painting plastic 1
painting plastic 2


No Scuff ’n Shoot Here, Nathan Tarr, BodyShop Business, May 2007

some PPG tech. articles:

Avoiding the Mottle Effect

Blending Basics






i did not write the above articles,but i feel it is very good info for anyone.



sanding discussion


my version of smoothing interior plastic

my version of painting your s10/blazer grille(or airdam)


archives

and in your glove box is the location of your paint code(for your s-10 of coarse):



here is a ppg locator,use it to find a shop or a distibutor(read PAINT STORE)
only platinum distrubutors can sell shopline......look for this logo:

here's a locator:

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishweb/locator/locator.aspx

the complete set of products and tech sheets for anything PPG can be found here:
(on the side bar you can choose omni,shopline,etc.)

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...c-04551702a5df#

[paint toad]

some online sites for supplies and info

https://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=465
For house of Kolor, Iwata airbrushes (Teflon needle bearings), Old Skool Flake, Pin Striping supplies, Alsa, TONs of airbrushing videos, Books, Stencils.... and so on

Innate.com - Custom paint products and supplies Great source for vids, how-tos, specialty products, pin striping pannels, Xotic paints (Small quantities), Full kits for smaller jobs, Wizzard cutting componds, and great advice.... Nate is a great guy give him a call.

AutoBody Depot A great place for sanding supplies, full size guns and parts, 3M products.... you just have to know what you are looking for and the phone support is techinical only... no paint help here.

EastWood Autobody Fillers, glazes, Autobody tools, and more....

AirBrush Action The magazine and teaching workshop schedules, They also have a forum to ask questions.

Kustom Kulture lounge A great place for specific questions on airbrushing and the latest tech.

[NickZigaitis]

I'm sure this would be great for some of you guys out there experts in the field.

I think it would be very advantageous for some of you with vast amounts of knowledge to put together a sticky for the paint area with regard to painting.

Paint coats in succession.
i.e.

body work, then filler, then primer, the seal, base coat, clear coat.


or

VOC. What does it mean and how does it relate to everything?

or

Some reducers come in Fast, Slow, Medium. (I imagine this is relative to temperature.)
What does it mean, and when should you use it?

or

What does "Flash" or "Flash off" mean.

or

Even better yet. The measuring cups you get from paint stores. How do you use them properly to mix ratios of paint to hardener to reducer, etc.

or

What flex addative is the best out there? What is it compatible with?

or

What are the different type of paint material use? Pro / Cons or each?

i.e. Epoxy, urethane, enamel, acrylic, acrylic enamel....etc, etc you get the idea.

When should I use epoxy primer?

When should I use etching primer, lol, I know, epoxy is replacing it, lol.

You get the idea guys.



We need to delve more into the roots of what is going on. Like mixing the paint to what tips on a gun should be used with a particular paint material, to what psi genarally is the best to shoot at for that paint.

Follow??????????

Jump on board experts and fill in the missing links.

[paint toad]

jeez nick........

i'll pm you my cell number......what you ask may confuse others....

WAIT!!!! i just thought of something

[sik_kreations_951]

voc = volitile organic compounds

[sik_kreations_951]

slow reducer is for hot wheather, paint dries quick when its hot. 80 and up

medium is for about the normal weather, about 70 to 75 degrees

fast reducer is for less then 70 degrees

[sik_kreations_951]

flash off is when the paint is settled and ready for another coat, the reducer has dried, enough or the clear has dried off for another coat, to where it wont run. basically dried enough for another coat, not totally dry, but not liquid wet.

[sik_kreations_951]

as far as cups, its the ratio, if the clear is a 4 to 1 clear, u fill to line where it has the first 4, and then u fill to the other 4 just about it, if its a 2 to 1 to 1, there will be 3 lines, and u go about it the same way.

[sik_kreations_951]

flex additives are only used for plastic parts like bumpers that flex alot when putting on so the paint doesnt crack, after a couple days, the clear dries and the flex ability is gone.

[sik_kreations_951]

as far ast the types of paint, its just the different types of material its made of. urethanes are the best, acrylic enamels are old school and good for production. an acrylic is a waterbased material.

[NickZigaitis]

Ok, thats more like it. Good info.

Flex agents. I know the flex is only for a short period and for bumpers. But, whats a good flex agent and how is it mixed. i.e. what ratio is it to the other parts mixed?

[BIGGERISBETTER]

i like this thread already

[sik_kreations_951]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Ok, thats more like it. Good info.

Flex agents. I know the flex is only for a short period and for bumpers. But, whats a good flex agent and how is it mixed. i.e. what ratio is it to the other parts mixed?

each brand has there own, and u can find the mix ratio in the tech sheet.

[paint toad]

epoxy primer should be used over bare metal and body filler

[paint toad]

every paint system has tech sheets that give you:

mix ratios
recommended air pressure
recommended tip size
flash times
dry times(to buff)
recommended number of coats

all systems are different but i use a 1.4 for metallics and pearls.....a 1.5 for solid color and a 1.4 for clearcoat

i shoot metallics at about 22 psi (inlet) except for the last coat then i will up to about 25 psi(inlet) in a cross draft booth

now that i'm in a down draft booth again i can put on a drop coat at about 10-12 psi(inlet)

i shoot clear at 37 psi(inlet)

[BobOnAir]

I'm just learning how to do wet bedding, blending and stuff....

also,, I've heard that you paint mettalics and pearls different from solids?

[paint toad]

here ya go nick:

Glossary

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

here ya go nick:

Glossary

Outstanding link. That gives a lot. Great find. Thanks for posting it.

[Autorodtechnologies]

Flex agent is not a item I use, I don't see much of any benefit to using it, it only works for so long, and if you put a part on within that time frame the paint is still flexible enough anyways. I mean you really shouldn't be twising a part that much anyways when installing it.. I dont' get that part.

[NickZigaitis]

Last question and then I think I'm well on my way to doing this myself. The Sealer coat prior to top coat. Does this get sanded or wet sanded? I know its used to seal the scratch marks of the primer and to also keep the top coat from seeping into the primer coat but does it need sanding to or will the top coat adhere to it without that last surface scuffed?

[paint toad]

no need to sand the sealer.....just be sure to stay in the re-coat window.....you can,after proper flash time,wet sand dirt nibs if necessary.....once again,the tech sheets will give you the times i speak of

btw....i do not use flex additive either,for the same reasons as chad

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

no need to sand the sealer.....just be sure to stay in the re-coat window.....you can,after proper flash time,wet sand dirt nibs if necessary.....once again,the tech sheets will give you the times i speak of

btw....i do not use flex additive either,for the same reasons as chad

Ok, cool. Thanks for the info fellas.

[paint toad]

merged with an existing thread and STUCK

[foxracin23]

looks good to me got any links where i can get some iwata parts at my place is expensive i need a needle my trigger is sticking like crazy

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by foxracin23

looks good to me got any links where i can get some iwata parts at my place is expensive i need a needle my trigger is sticking like crazy

have you cleaned it,lubed it,adjusted the packing nut?

[sik_kreations_951]

Quote: Originally Posted by foxracin23

looks good to me got any links where i can get some iwata parts at my place is expensive i need a needle my trigger is sticking like crazy

here ya go...

https://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=465

[jtdesigns]

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

here ya go nick:

Glossary

this link doesnt work. got another???

[paint toad]

hmmm.....i'll go look.....it used to work

[paint toad]

http://www.autobodystore.com/glossary.shtml

there ya go..

heres some info:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f72/a-...8/#post4572107