a tip for painters

[paint toad]

i just learned this

when spraying a test card to check my color on the vehicles....after the base dries spray or pour dx-330(ppg's wax n grease remover)......it glosses the test card very well and if you have to add a toner,by the time you are ready to spray again the 330 has evaporated and you can use the same card

[Autorodtechnologies]

killer idea.. is that the waterbourne or solvent.. I don't remember.. it's been a while

[paint toad]

it's the solvent and it doesn't attack the basecoat at all

[MINITRK]

i do the same when checking for low/high spots on bodywork

[Autorodtechnologies]

ok,, just trying to keep up on my numbers.. i'll use the 710 then next time I need to test a card.. killer idea.. i've been using spray can clear and that sucks

[Prime.]

yeah, that's a pretty good tip. you can also spray it pretty heavy on a panel to make it gloss and help show imperfections that may show after done clearing.

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINITRK

i do the same when checking for low/high spots on bodywork

i have to do that on everything now.....the shop is so backed up the bodymen are pumping shit out fast and i'm finding damage when the vehicle is in the booth......

i'm not used to that shit because i haven't painted other people's work for a long time and i just keep forgetting that not everyone is as good as me

honest...i'm not being arrogant with that last statement....merely stating fact!

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by Prime.

yeah, that's a pretty good tip. you can also spray it pretty heavy on a panel to make it gloss and help show imperfections that may show after done clearing.

no because it's in the booth and if there is damage you just wasted basecoat.......the point is to have it perfect before it gets to the booth

[Prime.]

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

no because it's in the booth and if there is damage you just wasted basecoat.......the point is to have it perfect before it gets to the booth

yeah, i meant over primer before base...

[Maverick2664]

my old instructor at wyotech showed us that trick, really useful, i use it a lot on heavy metallic color... silvers and golds and such, oh and white cause we all know white sucks ass

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

my old instructor at wyotech showed us that trick, really useful, i use it a lot on heavy metallic color... silvers and golds and such, oh and white cause we all know white sucks ass

at the new job....all solid colors get tinted and panel painted.....i did a white(3800) escalade friday.....all i did was leave the 1602 out and it was a dead match

[Draggin97]

nice tip, all i have ever done is used rattle can clear as well.

[Maverick2664]

i tried rattle can clear a few times, it sucks, takes too long to dry and sometimes mottles the metallics, i stick with dx330 anymore

[paint toad]

i used to spray out the card and just put a big drop of whatever clear i'm using on the job on the edge of the card......i had a boss that would spray uncatalized clear on it and that worked well but you could never tack off any dirt

you should try the dcu2002 clear.....it goes on anything that is more the 2 panels and all front ends........

it flows real nice @92 with 885 reducer....it's very slow too.....but it's polyurethane so its more restant to rock chips

i can't use epoxy anymorenot even on the machine......we use 1792 wash prime before primer or sealer.....it works......he's been in this building since 1990.....has 2.5 million hours on the booth with no unhappy customers.....'

i'll do it his was

i lied....i have epoxy at home and will continue to use it on my jobs

[optikal]

yea a painter at the last shop i worked at used to use the 330 on test panels and i've been doing it ever since.

the 2002 clear is pretty nice, i used to use it all the time before we switched to the 3000 and 4000 line of clears

[Maverick2664]

if by 3000 and 4000 you mean DC3000 and DC4000 velocity (concept i think?) clears, my shop uses them for a small parts and door jambs and whatnot, personally i dont like the way they flow out, and unless you buff them the same day, its kind of a pain, it gets hard as a rock the next day

the main clear we use is 2042, but ill have to look into 2002, joes been ranting and raving about it for a few days now lol

[optikal]

yea the DC3000 and DC4000. i hate buffing them with a passion.

[sik_kreations_951]

Quote: Originally Posted by optikal

yea the DC3000 and DC4000. i hate buffing them with a passion.

try hok uc 35 a week after it was sprayed. ill take ppg anyday.

[Maverick2664]

lol i made that mistake once, painted my brothers 73 super beetle and it was 2 weeks before i had the time to sand and buff it, in 3 hours i got half the roof and the passenger side door before i said screw this... it was like buffing concrete

[Draggin97]

speaking of ppg clears, anyone heard/tried anything with the new vibrance clear VCS200 clear?

[99SonomaHeavenS]

i think my buddy is using it on his truck, right now he has a cheap clear b/c we had to make it to a show and that stuff takes forever to dry

[paint toad]

i haven't....but i sprayed 2002 again today

[optikal]

speaking of 2002 and how nice it is, today i started colorsanding and buffing a 34 ford street rod that was painted and cleared with 2002 over a YEAR ago, and it buffed out like it was painted yesterday.

[paint toad]

wow.......our's get baked for 35 min @150 deg. and they buff it next day or so....but it is an overall polyurethane clear

[Autorodtechnologies]

polyurethane clears are the only way to go.. I haven't used the 2002 but if it's a poly that's where i'd start if I had to use ppg.. I don't ever use anything that is not a polyurethane anymore...

[paint toad]

i painted a 2004 s-10 ex-cab....pewter.....front clip was replaced.....blended doors.....

shop policy is every front end job(which is most//alot) gets 2002 polyurethane clear.....

starting with the //darker formula(which matched the chips)....sprayed....switched to the 'coarser' formula,and tinted that darker....the truck came out kick-ass.....

i will try to snap a couple pics tomorrow

once again....i love 2002 clear.....

also .... i love my new booth.....i love my new job

i will change the thread title to:

' chronicle of a toad '

it's been a long time since i enjoyed going to work.....so bare with me people.....

[downtoearth]

Ima have to try that 2002. I havnt been painting long but all I have ever used is 2021, we clear everything with it unless the costomer asks otherwise. Man I am glad we dont do insurance work...sounds horrible, lol.

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by downtoearth

Ima have to try that 2002. I havnt been painting long but all I have ever used is 2021, we clear everything with it unless the costomer asks otherwise. Man I am glad we dont do insurance work...sounds horrible, lol.

2021 has been my clear of choice for 7-8 years....i love'd' it....2002 rocks its world.....BUT.....it's slow and you need a controlled enviroment.....

put it this way........you must be familiar with 2042?

i can bake 2042 for 10 minutes @ 150 degs....untape start putting together...

2002 takes 35 minutes @ same temp......untape and leave alone for a couple hours.....

[downtoearth]

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

2021 has been my clear of choice for 7-8 years....i love'd' it....2002 rocks its world.....BUT.....it's slow and you need a controlled enviroment.....

put it this way........you must be familiar with 2042?

i can bake 2042 for 10 minutes @ 150 degs....untape start putting together...

2002 takes 35 minutes @ same temp......untape and leave alone for a couple hours.....

Damn...I wish we had a baking booth. Especially when it gets cold, shit like to never of dried today. I cant imagine being able to start re-assembly in 10 minuites!

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by downtoearth

Damn...I wish we had a baking booth. Especially when it gets cold, shit like to never of dried today. I cant imagine being able to start re-assembly in 10 minuites!

i can't hardly imagine laying down a nice job....letting some solvents escape....the time before you hit the oven is key.....

the 2002 will start to flow again once it gets warms.......

if you get a job that flowed upon application.......let the booth purge for 15 minutes,then bake

if you desire a bit more flow.....turn on the oven in about 8-10 minutes

the 2002 is 100% a booth clear.

[paint toad]

btw....

i shoot 2002 @ 84 degrees with dt-885 reducer

i shoot 2042 @ 84 degrees with dt-895

both with dcx-61 activator