Ahl/drl ?

[philipalan]

Something new to add to the thread:

If bending the pin on the DRL relay works for you, but you'd rather have a switch, you can instead leave the relay the same and modify the wire pin 86 connects to.

Pin 86 connects to a lime green wire with a black stripe. This wire goes to the body relay block, which is on the left side of the dash, buried deep inside.

Luckily for us, we can see the bottom of the block from the driver's side. Just stick your head next to the clutch and look up. There should be two lime green wires with a black stripe coming from the bottom of the block (from the same exact place actually). One goes back to the DRL relay, and the other one goes to the BCM.

If you want to disable your DRLs, just cut the wire that goes to the DRL relay. How do you tell? Simply cut one, and see if you can detect continuity with pin 86 on the DRL relay using a multimeter. Or just use a lightbulb and AA battery, whatever. If you got the wrong wire, it's no problem, just reattach it using a butt splice or by twisting it together.

Once you've found the wire, either leave it cut to disable your DRLs permanantly, or put it on a switch to allow yourself the option to override the DRLs. Using this method, you don't need to modify your DRL relay at all.

I'll post pictures in the morning; hopefully this helps someone.

[bladehines]

ok question. the headlight switch has the dome override thing. i know you can click it in and out 3 times in a row and something happens. ( it works in the delivery trucks, but not my truck) what does it do?

[philipalan]

Quote: Originally Posted by bladehines

ok question. the headlight switch has the dome override thing. i know you can click it in and out 3 times in a row and something happens. ( it works in the delivery trucks, but not my truck) what does it do?

Not sure what you mean exactly. On some models pushing it in 4 times will make the truck ding and disable the Daylight Running Lights until the next time you start it.

Which trucks it works on really seems to be luck of the draw. It doesn't work on my '00, and it works on other people's from the same year and factory.

[nukem1st]

On my 98 I got fed up with relays, and just unpluged the wire on the ebrake and grounded it.
I did find another article on this, which I was having the same problems a lot of you are having,I pulled the DRL relay and it didn't have the mentioned numbers, this article said pull the fog light relay, so I pulled it and there were the numbers, so I don't know I didn't try it because I had already grounded it. But if you pull the relay and all it says is 12345,pull the fog lamp relay.

One thing I did notice thouugh is after I grounded the ebrake wire, my AHL's now don't work,is the DRL and the AHL connected in some way? I thought they was 2 different things.

[Redsdime]

i have a 98 S10 and my RPO Code is t61 that reads daytime running lights but i think i have automatics.. Reasoning for this is because during the day i will have my truck in the garage and when i turn the key on and start it but as soon as i went out of the garage my headlights turn off?? i dont get it so what do i have DRL or AHL im so lost right now

[bc_jimmy]

did that on my GMC Jimmy 99 and nothing happend, they're still there =(, is it posible that my car have both sistems? AHL and DRL? I just know that they are allways on, and also I have the little black ball on the speaker grill =(

[Calvin51]

New member here but been lurking for a week or so and just signed up. Hi all. Anyways I just bought a '00 GMC Jimmy and was wanting to disable the DRL's so have been reading thru the postings. I haven't had a chance to make it to a Radio Shack yet to get a resistor for the AHL's but I did try the 4 click Dome Overide. A word of caution....and I don't know if it does this on all rides, but.....4 clicks and the DRL's are off. I was driving past a store the other day and happened to look at the Jimmy in the window as I came to a stop. NO BRAKE LIGHTS. So when I got home I had the wife check it out also. The dome override will shut off the DRL's and it shuts off the brake lights in the tails. The third brake light will work though. I checked the brake lights in normal mode and all is good. So a word of caution to anyone using the dome overide method, if Johnny Law pulls you over, make sure you don't have any grenades, guns, knives or needles. LOL!!! BTW...great forum. Looking to finding out all the tricks for the minis as this is my first small ride. All others have been fullsize Bowties.

[98jimmySLT]

can i just wire a switch to the headlights so i can turn them off when i want to? if so which wires......

i dont want to disable the AHL or DRL, i just dont like the fact i cant turn off the headlights without turning the truck off

[greencactus3]

i have a toggle switch that turns the AHL function on and off

[Calvin51]

Just to retract a statement I made earlier about my brake lights not working when I did the 4 click dome overide and my brake lights not working.....my flasher button / turn signal switch went bad so when I noticed my brake lights not working it was not because of the dome overide. I put a new turn signal unit in and the 4 click dome overide works like it should. So I just want to say thanks. You read thru the forums you find the answers.

[1999 ZR2]

Quote: Originally Posted by ludachris18

I have a 2000 LS and i pulled the fuse under the hood and cut the three prongs off (leaving 87a and 30) and my DRL's still work. High beams etc all work too. I removed the entire fuse (just pulled it) and everything still worked. How can they still work with NO fuse even in? The dome thing works, hit four times, but I want a perminent solution. I have installed silverstars and it looks lame with DRL's on. Please help.

All I had to do was remove the center yellow wire from the relay located under the driverside carpet, almost directly under the brake pedal. Just like in this pic:



It will be the wire that goes to THE #5 PIN as shown hre:



Note---there are 2 yellow wires going to this relay---so MAKE SURE you cut the wire going to the #5 pin ONLY!! After cutting the wire, tape off both cut ends. Also, it's MUCH easier to roll the carpet back and put it back in place if you first remove the sill and kickplates.

This method works for 1999 and up trucks (may also incluse 1998's too)

[philipalan]

Quote: Originally Posted by 1999 ZR2

All I had to do was remove the center yellow wire from the relay located under the driverside carpet, almost directly under the brake pedal. Just like in this pic:



It will be the wire that goes to THE #5 PIN as shown hre:



Note---there are 2 yellow wires going to this relay---so MAKE SURE you cut the wire going to the #5 pin ONLY!! After cutting the wire, tape off both cut ends. Also, it's MUCH easier to roll the carpet back and put it back in place if you first remove the sill and kickplates.

This method works for 1999 and up trucks (may also incluse 1998's too)

instead of bending the pin on my 2000, I just cut the wire that goes to the DRL relay (the relay is in the engine compartment, the wire goes to under the dash), and stuck a switch in there. I think it was white and green striped, but I can send you the wire diagram if you need it.

[slammedblack99]

when i put in new dash speakers i broke off the little light sensor so now my lights are on all the time, which is fine cuz the DRL look stupid in my opinion. Anyways i want NO DRL and be able to turn my headlights on and off. i'm sure this was already answered but i must of missed it. please help

[okies10]

Have read this post and those on ZR2 till I'm blind. Gonna do the DRL deal on my '02 PU but got to wondering, and don't think I saw it in any of the posts. Can you make your parking lights act as your DRL's? That way the headlights would be just that, headlights, and perfect for the quad mod with no worry about early burnout on bulbs.

[okies10]

drperry
Crew



Joined: 31 Dec 2007
Posts: 92
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:06 am Post subject: Actually, It's fairly simple

First, disable your DRL's.

I know, weird first step, but stay with me here, lol.

Then you need to open your dash so you can access the back of the headlight switch...

There's a white wire... I can't remember if it's the only one... Splice that into the parking lamp power wire.

BAM! Parking light DRL's.
.... Or it should be, at any rate... I think if you DON'T do the normal DRL disable mod (bending pin 86 on the DRL relay) you'll probably have your highbeams on at the same time.

I found this out when I wanted a low beam power relay for my HID's and quad beam mod, with NO DRL's.


HOWEVER! I take no responsibility for anything that happens, as I do NOT know the power rating for that circuit... It's pretty much just a relay trigger so the headlights can turn on.... It draws 0.2 amps.

Let me know if you want me to snap a pic or something so you get the right wire Back to top



Found this answer over at S-10crewcab.

[TrailTamer]

FOR 2000-present

ZR2
On a vehicle with the ZR2 option, the daytime running lamps utilize the low beam headlamps equipped with a long life bulb in a parallel circuit. Voltage is supplied by the headlamp power relay as in normal low beam operation to each low beam headlamp bulb however the ground is controlled by the DRL relay.

When the BCM requests for DRL operation, it will apply battery positive voltage energizing the headlamp power relay coil and ground activating the DRL relay coil. The DRL relay bypasses the multifunction headlamp dimmer switch completing the headlamp low beam ground circuit to G102. The parameters required to operate the system are the same as a vehicle without the ZR2 option.


To disable the DRL, disconnect the white wire from the BCM that energizing the headlamp power relay coil.

remove the panels that cover the lower dash, covering the BCM. total of 9 screws. they're 7mm btw. (HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE and HERE)

IMPORTANT- there's 2 screws thats different than the rest of the other screws, very important to put them in the same place, or you could put in the bigger screw in that hole and damage something behind there. on passenger side and on driver side

right under the steer column, let the panel to lay down, not attemp to get out, its hanging on with the OBDII and some module mounted on it.

slide the middle panel over and laid it there, dont worry if it flexs as you move it. move it there as that

If you want to make the job a bit faster but much harder to undo the disable, you could just cut the wire and reinstall the panel and call it day. that white wire need to be cut, the connector came from the middle ones off of the BCM

IMPORTANT: The ignition switch should be in the OFF position when connecting or disconnecting the connectors to the BCM. Always disconnect the Brown BCM connector FIRST and connect the Brown BCM connector LAST. The BCM can set DTC(s) with the ignition switch in the OFF position.

READ ^^^^^^^

Disconnect the farthest bottom/left connector FIRST THIS ONE

Disconnect the middle connectorthat connector

get the gray retainer off this retainer when its out, it looks like this

Then pull the A11 wire (white) wire out of the connector. (this part will need some muscle to yank it out, probably will need plier.... this is what it looks like when its pulled out

Reinstall the gray retainer back in the connector

Reinstall the center connector back on the center of the BCM

Reinstall the last connector

before put the panels back on there, TEST to clarify that the DRL's disabled, do this is better than reintall the panel and find that you worked on wrong wire and need to do all of the work again. (make sure your parking brake is off and the gear is in DRIVE)

it work? install the panel, remember that 2 screws need to go back to their place.

For 1998-2000

On the 1998 – 2000 trucks, go here http://www.geocities.com/zq8gmcsonoma/drl.html and follow the instructions. All you have to do is remove a relay and bend a tab back – about a 2 minute job at the most. My word of advice, when you try to take that relay out, use a large pair of channel lock pliers to get a hold of the base of it. It comes out very hard.
(stolen from cknaffle's stickified thread)

on the 97 and pre

just pull the DRL fuse and call it day

to do the quad beam on 98 and up, again stolen from cknaffle's thread

First, the quadbeam mod.

If your DRL are low beams and you want to just have quadbeams, and nothing else, simply take out your driver’s side headlight assembly, tap into the yellow wire with another wire about 12” or so long, put a ring terminal on the end of the wire, and ground it (either via a self-tapping screw or using an existing bolt). It’s that easy.

If your DRL are high beams, then go here http://www.fmtc.com/~brule/quad.html and follow the instructions to wire in a relay.

lastly the updated method of disabling the DRL on 2000 and up WILL WORK with quad beam WITHOUT any MODIFICIATIONS such as need relay, etc, NADA, NONE, NOTHING! imo much cleaner job this way

for the AHL, for the updated method of disabling the DRL on 2000 and up WILL disabled the headlights, however the parking lights still will come on, but you can easily fixed this by doing this, again stolen from cknaffle's thread

FOR MY WAY TO DISABLE THE AHL- exactly same as the DRL disable, there's only 2 white wires on the center connector, get BOTH of them off or even just CUT them off then you're done, you've did a DRL and AHL disable easy! no necessary to tap into the sensor.

Take the speaker cover off the speaker on the dash on the passenger’s side. You’ll see a little sensor there. Take the wires off the sensor (a little clip holds it in place), and put a 680 ohm resistor in there (one wire from each side of the resistor goes in each wire’s hole. You can get the resistor at Radio Shack for under $1.00. This tricks the truck into thinking it is light out all the time.

ALL of the PICTURES can be found HERE

il post more lighting modifications in futures, coming up is fog light to stay on while high beam is on......

This post has been edited by TrailTamer on Feb 18 2008, 02:51 PM

this is off ZR2USA.com and made by me.

also im actually thinking that this will work on all newer S-series (with updated headlight as 98 and up) but i dont want say it will work, unless you're willing to give it a shot, id love to see if it worked for you

[TrailTamer]

to make the Parking lamps as DRL

[Insert Pic Here Later]

check it out... after a lot of demand we have figured out how to run all 4 Parking Lamp's as DRL's, eliminating the low beams as DRL's!!!! we need to thank Brett (TrailTamer) for taking the time to tinker with his truck for his needs and learning the way of the wiring diagram .

i was searching threads like i normally do and i noticed one specifically where someone was having some electrical difficulties. TrailTamer came in and confidently diagnosed the guys truck to have a bad relay. we soon came to find out that his diagnosis was right. anyways, after seeing this example and the work he did on his truck i didnt hesitate to ask him if he would be able to help me run my Parking Lamps as DRL's, disabling the low beam DRL's, while leaving all the other components of the stock lighting and circuitry alone. sure enough he got back with me with a diagram and complete confidence in his work. we discussed all the questions i had about the wiring and he was prompt with his p.m.'s. EVENTUALLY, i got to work and through my uncertainty i now have PL DRL's . if i havent said it enough... thanks Brett for your time.

this mod should work on 98 and + base model ZR2's


now to the fun part... pictures and explanation. unfortunately, i dont understand the mechanism of how this circuit works but i do kno that my truck is protected from short circuit and there are no damaging affects related with this mod thus far. if u desire to know how it works ask Brett himself or maybe ill take the time to look over the diagram again and type an explanation here later. for now, i just know it works .

tools needed: diagonal wire cutters, wire crimpers (good pair, not these: ), wire strippers, shrink wrap, two lighters or small torch, many feet of 14 ga. wire (possibly 16 and 18 ga. will work as well), 22-18 & 18-14 ga. splice connectors, straight connectors, male and female connectors, ring terminals, socket set (1/4" & 3/8" drive ratchets, 7mm & 8mm & 13mm & possibly 15mm sockets, and open end 8mm wrench), phillips head scredriver, silicone caulk, panduit/tie-down straps, 1/2" wire loom, electrical tape, flashlight, thin rasps, razor knife, and two relays (one 5-pin, one 4-pin). here

my wiring diagram
here

Brett's diagram; the only thing with this diagram is that it is not necessary to add wire to the upper parking lamps.
here

take off the panel covering the BCM. 7mm x 6 screws. while at it, remove the passenger side dash panel next to the BCM panel. 7mm x 2 screws. pull the drivers side and passenger side kick panels off. here

IMPORTANT: The ignition switch should be in the OFF position when connecting or disconnecting the connectors to the BCM. Always disconnect the orange bottom most connector FIRST and LAST.

Disconnect the orange connector FIRST and then disconnect the grey connector directly above it. here

Search for the white A5 pin. here Do not confuse the white A11 wire with this wire. here Connect a splice connect to A5 and a length of wire that will reach over to your passenger side dash panel. Connect this wire with female connector to pin 85 of the 5 pin relay.

Reconnect grey connector then the orange connector. here

Pull back the driver's side carpet so that it rests on the brake pedal. here

Untie DRL relay enough to expose it's five wires. Cut the center yellow wire and not the yellow wire that is on the bottom along with the other two wires. here Strip both ends of the wire and crimp a MALE connector on one end and a FEMALE connector on the other end. If you do not wish to keep this mod, for whatever reason, this will allow you to connect the yellow wire back together for stock DRL. here

Obtain two lengths of wire long enough to route up the carpet, into the dash, behind the center console/in front of BCM panel, and over to the relays. here , here Crimp TWO FEMALE connectors on ONE wire and ONE MALE & ONE FEMALE connector on the other ONE. Push shrink wrap onto the ends of the wires. Connect these wires to your male/female yellow wire and then use a lighter to shrink the shrink wrap overtop of the connection made. here The wire that goes to the DRL relay goes on pin 87 of the 5 pin relay. The other end of the yellow wire connects to pin 30 of the 5 pin relay.

Put carpet back in position and push kick panel back on.

Pull passenger side carpet up and feed three very long lengths of wire through the antenna grommet or just one that has been curled into three (second method is easier for length adjustment). here

This post has been edited by rockininthezr2488 on Feb 26 2008, 09:59 PM



Two of these wires need to be cut to length from the relay inside the cab to the positive terminal on the battery OR to the constant 12 v post on the starter. The third wire should be cut to the length from the relay to just in front of the battery. Strap all three of these wires to the wire loom on the passenger side frame rail, which is inside the front fender well, via tie-down/Panduit straps. here

Cut all three of these wires in half, as they are seen inside the fender well, connect one 10 AMP inline fuse to each of these wires (3 total), and reconnect your wires. Use shrink wrap as needed (6 total). here , here

Disconnect the battery and remove (8mm x 2 screws, and battery holster). Remove battery tray (13mm x 2 screws). Connect the two wires of length to starter TOGETHER via a ring terminal. Hone the ring terminal out so that it will fit the BOTTOM post on the starter. Connect it to the starter's continuous 12 v post (13mm nut). here

Go back into the cab and connect a female connector to each of the three wires being run to the antenna grommet. One of the HOT wires should be connected to pin 86 on the 5-pin relay and the other HOT wire connected to pin 30 of the 4-pin relay. Put the remaining third wire on pin 87 of the 4-pin relay. Push carpet back and put kick panel back into place. here

From pin 86 on the 4-pin relay, connect a female connected wire to it and attach a ring terminal to the other end of it. Attach this wire to a source of GOOD ground. In my case, i used the center console and I cut the ring terminal into a Y terminal so that it would fit underneath the center console nuts.

Get a small piece of wire long enough to connect the two relays together. Use two female connectors and attach pin 87a on the 5-pin relay to pin 85 on the 4-pin relay.

Remove grille by pulling on the outsides first. Its self-explanatory from there... its held in by metal tabs. here Route a length of wire into the driver's side parking lamp wire loom, through the radiator core support, and all the way over to the piece of wire left in front of the battery. here Removal of electrical tape will be necessary so when done routing just re-electrical tape those wire loom joints. here , here Wire another piece into the passenger side parking lamp, through the core support, and up to the two wires. , here

Get two splice connects (one for each side) and splice the BROWN wire of the parking lamps into the new wire that u routed into the loom. here Push grille back into place.

For the final connection, crimp the two wires coming from the stock wire loom together via a straight connector and then crimp the other end to the third wire coming from within the cab. here Reconnect your battery.

I don't have the quadbeam mod yet but I will post my findings of what happens when I complete this job. According to Brett, all should be good with the quadbeam mod. I also have yet to mount my relays underneath the passenger side dash which i intend on doing.

The only adverse affect I have noticed is that when using the "Flash to Pass" feature, every other use of it will cause the lights on the guage bezel to dissapear and the blue headlight indicator will not appear. Releasing the "Flash to Pass" will relieve the guage bezel of this problem. Every other use of the "Flash to Pass" will act as it is supposed to otherwise.

Good luck and ENJOY!1!!!1

-Ryan

This post has been edited by rockininthezr2488 on Feb 26 2008, 09:57 PM

[tt85_GM]

I read the how to for the AHL, so I went to the local Radio Shack or "The Source" they now call it. I couldnt find 1/2 watt 2.2K ohm resistor but they had 1/4watt 2.2K, will this be ok??

[erin49015]

The Best Buy tech. who installed my stereo suggests that the day time running lights drain the battery, not sure how that is if the alternator is good.
I have a 2003 Blazer Extreme, 4.3 V6. 25,000 miles. is what he says true?

[admit1]

<<<<<<<<<98 SONOMA

Step one: remove fuse cover inside of engine bay located by washer fluid

Step two: pull out DRL fuse which is symbolized on reverse of cover

Step three: bend prong 1 or 5 (for me I needed to do 1 because there was a fuse in the way of 5)

Step four: Go train horn people!


This is easy people!




The best buy people are idiots, think about how long it would take for you to leave only your lights on during the day to drain your whole vehicle.

Simply turn on your vehicle, with your lights off....look at your voltage meter should be around 14 then turn your lights on and see if the meter drops if it does drop at all then most likely it will spring right back to idle position. Therefore the alternator is making up for what was lost.

[Oo-v-oO]

Quote: Originally Posted by truckinjeff

96-97 Drl disable. Make sure the truck is OFF, The relay access in the glove box, take the cover off, pull the relay on the right hand side, turn the truck on and turn on the brights, if one bright comes on; you have the correct relay, turn the truck and brights off, cut pin 1 off the relay and insert it back into the socket. Your done, and you still have fog lamps and you didn't have to take the dash apart

Sweet. What I did rather than cutting the pin off or bending it out of the way was to simply fold a piece of scotch tape over the pin, then cut off the excess, leaving a little extra on the sides to cover the pin fully.
Simple, and easily reversible.

Thanks!

[dj03xtreme]

ok not sure if it was posted up on here i read all of page one and a few things on page 3 didnt see any thing on it but i got an 02 blazer xtreme and an 03 s10 xtreme all i did was pulled out the DRL relay and cut a wire stuck it in the *standing from the drivers side wheel* bottom left prong up one over one *right* and plugged it in them two *not sure what the #'s are but hope this helps some of you guys out i have had this done on my bagged s10 for the past 3 yrs now i have all my head lights brights and fog lights working just fine samw with the blazer every thing works fine i also went out and disconected my AHL's on the s10 when i did it 3 yrs ago.. but now i got to do it to the blazer

[oks10]

Anybody know what would cause the quadbeams to STOP working? I did this a couple of years back (just disabling the drl's and hooking up the quadbeams) and everything worked fine. At some point though everything went back to normal with the exception of the drl. When i turn the high beams on it shuts off the lows. Any ideas?

[oximuis]

Guys, i recently got an HID kit installed. I came here and got some info on how to disable my DRLs. I pulled the DRL relay on the fuse box and my DRL quit working. My question is, shoud i put it back on and bend pin 86 of can i just leave the relay off? or would it hurt my truck if i leave it off?Thanks in advance

[bmell209]

alright so i got a 99 s10, iv tried the bending of the realay every friggen way discribed by like 4 different people, no change when i have the AHL sensor disconected...

i wanted to disable the DRL so i could wire in an "interupt" or "on off toggle switch" on one of the AHL sensor wires,(on 1 wire, NOT connecting the 2 for a bybass) since when i disconect my AHL sensor the DRL's are activated.

the DRL mod for my 99 s10 did not work, i have no idea ware is was made and don't care, iv read all the post about the location of assembaly mattering and they say the drl mod on 99 s10's don't work if they were made in canada cuz "blah blah blah" then at the same time i have read of people saying their car was made in new jersey and they are having the same problem as me, the relay mod doesn't work... nor does cutting the wire underneath the carpet next to the emergency break.... no suprise to me since cuting that wire would be same thing as bending one of the prongs on the relay.....

so i said screw "IM DRIVEN TO RADIO SHACK"!!!!

i got the 2.2k ohm 1/2 wat resistor and hooked it up to a switch that i connected to both wires of the AHL sensor. IT WORKS!!!!!

the only problem is the delay.. it takes about 20-40 seconds for the headlights to turn off and on...

i am still going to go ahead and wire it since its the only way other than setting up a relay and switch to my two low beams.. then running that through the firewall and i really don't want to drill my firewall.

it would be so nice to be able to flip that switch that overrides the sensor and makes it think its daytime and have it be instant, but i guess the computer has to think about it... idk...

i guess im just going to have to wait 20 - 40 seconds, around the corner, before i drive up to my parents house or my girl friends house, or wile i just want to chill in my truck, drink beer and listen to some new metal.

but it is a cool mod and it beets having to shut off your truck, push in the ebrake just a bit then turn your truck back on.

anyways ill take a pic and post it tommorrow when i wire the whole thing, still havn't decided ware to mount the switch

[blazed16]

i know this is pretty old but i have a 2001 blazer 2 dr i went out bought the 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and plug it into the sensor like a u shape so 1 end in each hole and put the speaker back together and started the truck and the head lights still turned on in the dark....
What am i missing lol

[philipalan]

Quote: Originally Posted by blazed16

i know this is pretty old but i have a 2001 blazer 2 dr i went out bought the 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and plug it into the sensor like a u shape so 1 end in each hole and put the speaker back together and started the truck and the head lights still turned on in the dark....
What am i missing lol

You will have to better describe what you did.

You are supposed to take the circuit, and replace the sensor with the resistor. So take out the sensor, and attach the two ends of the resistor to the two wires the sensor was attached to. Did you do this?

[philipalan]

If you did do this, are you perhaps confusing the automatic headlight system with the daytime running light system?

The automatic headlights turn on your headlights. The daytime running light system runs your two highbeam bulbs at half brightness and does not light up your dash.

[blazed16]

Quote: Originally Posted by philipalan

If you did do this, are you perhaps confusing the automatic headlight system with the daytime running light system?

The automatic headlights turn on your headlights. The daytime running light system runs your two highbeam bulbs at half brightness and does not light up your dash.

Hi there no i already have my DRl;s disabled and no problem there..
I took the speaker grill off unpluged the sensor took the resistor made it a u shape and put each end of the resistor in the plug.Then i put the speaker grill back and started the truck and then the head lights turned on i turned the truck off made sure the resistor was in the holes good and started the truck and the head lights turned on....

[1999 ZR2]

Quote: Originally Posted by blazed16

i know this is pretty old but i have a 2001 blazer 2 dr i went out bought the 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and plug it into the sensor like a u shape so 1 end in each hole and put the speaker back together and started the truck and the head lights still turned on in the dark....
What am i missing lol

1. You need a 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, not a 2.2 ohm --- back to Radio Shack you go!

2. You need to plug the resistor into the side of the connector that FEEDS the sensor (the side that goes back into the wire harness and comes from the ECM) not the side of the connector thats hooked directly to the sensor. The purpose of the resistor is to make the ECM "think" the sensor is plugged in---faking it out so to speak.

Do these 2 things and your AHL's will be disabled---immediately.

[blazed16]

Quote: Originally Posted by 1999 ZR2

1. You need a 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, not a 2.2 ohm --- back to Radio Shack you go!

2. You need to plug the resistor into the side of the connector that FEEDS the sensor (the side that goes back into the wire harness and comes from the ECM) not the side of the connector thats hooked directly to the sensor. The purpose of the resistor is to make the ECM "think" the sensor is plugged in---faking it out so to speak.

Do these 2 things and your AHL's will be disabled---immediately.

Ok everyone told me the 2.2 lmao...I will go get the 680 and hope it works....
So i will take the 680ohm resistor make it into a U shape and plug it in...Thats what i was doing with the 2.2 lol

heres a picture from someone else...Thats exactly what i did

[1999 ZR2]

Quote: Originally Posted by blazed16

Ok everyone told me the 2.2 lmao...I will go get the 680 and hope it works....
So i will take the 680ohm resistor make it into a U shape and plug it in...Thats what i was doing with the 2.2 lol

heres a picture from someone else...Thats exactly what i did

It'll work!!

Yep, that's how you want to plug it in---Also, make sure you tape off any part of the resistors terminals that are bare/exposed to keep them from accidentally shorting to ground when you stick them back in the dash.

If you need anymore help, feel free to PM me---I can shoot you my phone #

[blazed16]

Quote: Originally Posted by 1999 ZR2

It'll work!!

Yep, that's how you want to plug it in---Also, make sure you tape off any part of the resistors terminals that are bare/exposed to keep them from accidentally shorting to ground when you stick them back in the dash.

If you need anymore help, feel free to PM me---I can shoot you my phone #

Thats for the post...

So why does everyone say to use a 2.2 ohm for 99+ ....Is that only for certain trucks?

Also 680ohm is that stronger then a 2.2 ohm? I know nothing about resistors lol.....

[1999 ZR2]

Quote: Originally Posted by blazed16

Thats for the post...

So why does everyone say to use a 2.2 ohm for 99+ ....Is that only for certain trucks?

Also 680ohm is that stronger then a 2.2 ohm? I know nothing about resistors lol.....

I replied to your PM with an explanation of how it all works...2.2K for 98 down. 680 ohm for 99+. Hope I was able to help! Let me know if I can help anymore....Dave

[02_Black_XBlazer]

Quote: Originally Posted by 1999 ZR2

I replied to your PM with an explanation of how it all works...2.2K for 98 down. 680 ohm for 99+. Hope I was able to help! Let me know if I can help anymore....Dave

I don't wish to pick nits, but according to the sticky I gleaned my info from,(http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/ah...45/#post351897), you've got that flip-flopped. I just got finished disabling the Drl/Ahls in an '02 not but 45 minutes ago, and I used a 2.2k, 1/2w resistor, worked fine.

[blazed16]

Well i went out this evening picked up the 680 ohm resistor pluged it in and everything is good now..I have full control over my head lights...
Thanks 1999 ZR2 for the info....

The 2.2 ohm never worked for me but the 680 sure did....Now only i knew this info 4 months ago when i tryed the 2.2 lol.

[1999 ZR2]

Quote: Originally Posted by 02_Black_XBlazer

I don't wish to pick nits, but according to the sticky I gleaned my info from,(http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/ah...45/#post351897), you've got that flip-flopped. I just got finished disabling the Drl/Ahls in an '02 not but 45 minutes ago, and I used a 2.2k, 1/2w resistor, worked fine.

I've been known to be wrong before...just ask my wife...she'll tell ya!

I saw that post...but assuming the post is right and I've got it all backwards and I'm wrong, maybe someone could explain why the 680 ohm resisitor disabled the AHL's in my 1999 ZR2 and blazed16's 2001 Blazer?? (shouldn't have worked accoring to that post...)

In addition---that post was INCORRECT and did not work in disabling my DRL's either. I disabled my "low beam" DRL's by disconnecting the power line that feeds the DRL relay located under the carpeting on the DS by the brake pedal----and again, that was on my 1999.


blazed16----you're welcome!!

[02_Black_XBlazer]

I wouldn't say the post is incorrect, probably better to call it incomplete.