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98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

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Old 09-11-2005, 04:03 PM   #1
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98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

has anyone ever taken one completely apart?

im trying to take mine apart without breaking it...
Old 09-11-2005, 08:55 PM   #2
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

hrm?

why cha lookin to do?
Old 09-13-2005, 01:37 AM   #3
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

...take it apart without breaking it..

doing a power locks/windows conversion
Old 10-10-2005, 03:37 AM   #4
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Alright....so no one can answer this....fine. Ill do it myself.


The Body Relay Block contains all the relays for the body functions on the 2nd gen 1998 - 2003 trucks/suvs. My specimen comes from a 99 Sonoma with no power options whatsoever. The relays equiped are for inadvertent power lamp, courtesy lamps, headlamp ground, park lamps, and im not sure. There are 5 total. The Body Relay Block is located behind the I/P Fuse Block up inside the dash.








1. First start by taking the cap off and unloading all the relays. Remember their location and position! Some have 5 pins and cannot be rotated, others have 4 pins and you can insert them backwards.





2. The block consists of a top and bottom peices. Between them is another sandwich of plastic that holds the metal pins in place. To remove the first two halves, there is a metal insert that must be removed. I used an 11/32 drill bit. An 8mm or 5/16 will work though. The base of the metal insert is tapered outward which holds he bottom half casing together. Drill out the base of the insert until the tapered end comes loose. You should now be able to pull the metal connector through by either pulling on it with a metric 6mm bolt or tapping it out. Careful not to damage the threads if you plan on reusing it!






3. The top and bottom should now seperate exposing the metal pins inside.







The pins are double sided and have a two-sided female connector on the top. The relays plug into these female pins. If you plan to remove the double females, tip them sideways a bit and pry up gently with a flat screwdriver. DO NOT FORGET WHERE THEY GO!





4. WARNING: Xtreme caution if youre going to continue. The last halves have copper wires in the middle connecting certain pins. If you take them apart, you risk dislocating the copper wires!!

Pry the two halves apart slowly and gently. Do not stick anything far inside to pry to avoid damaging the copper wires. If the pieces do not seperate easily, look for any copper wires stuck to the top and bottom.






5. I didnt take it apart any further than this. I assume the pins can be pressed out, but dont forget to remember where the copper wires go.



I hope this was useful!

Last edited by Cronos; 10-10-2005 at 03:43 AM.
Old 06-18-2007, 10:56 PM   #5
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Quote: Originally Posted by Cronos
Alright....so no one can answer this....fine. Ill do it myself.


The Body Relay Block contains all the relays for the body functions on the 2nd gen 1998 - 2003 trucks/suvs. My specimen comes from a 99 Sonoma with no power options whatsoever. The relays equiped are for inadvertent power lamp, courtesy lamps, headlamp ground, park lamps, and im not sure. There are 5 total. The Body Relay Block is located behind the I/P Fuse Block up inside the dash.








1. First start by taking the cap off and unloading all the relays. Remember their location and position! Some have 5 pins and cannot be rotated, others have 4 pins and you can insert them backwards.





2. The block consists of a top and bottom peices. Between them is another sandwich of plastic that holds the metal pins in place. To remove the first two halves, there is a metal insert that must be removed. I used an 11/32 drill bit. An 8mm or 5/16 will work though. The base of the metal insert is tapered outward which holds he bottom half casing together. Drill out the base of the insert until the tapered end comes loose. You should now be able to pull the metal connector through by either pulling on it with a metric 6mm bolt or tapping it out. Careful not to damage the threads if you plan on reusing it!






3. The top and bottom should now seperate exposing the metal pins inside.







The pins are double sided and have a two-sided female connector on the top. The relays plug into these female pins. If you plan to remove the double females, tip them sideways a bit and pry up gently with a flat screwdriver. DO NOT FORGET WHERE THEY GO!





4. WARNING: Xtreme caution if youre going to continue. The last halves have copper wires in the middle connecting certain pins. If you take them apart, you risk dislocating the copper wires!!

Pry the two halves apart slowly and gently. Do not stick anything far inside to pry to avoid damaging the copper wires. If the pieces do not seperate easily, look for any copper wires stuck to the top and bottom.






5. I didnt take it apart any further than this. I assume the pins can be pressed out, but dont forget to remember where the copper wires go.



I hope this was useful!
It would be very very very useful if I could get those pics. Can anybody help?
Old 06-21-2011, 10:54 PM   #6
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Unhappy Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I have a 2002 s10 ext. cab 4.3 automatic, with the zq8 option. I cannot find the body relay block. I need access to retrofit power windows.. Please, can anybody shed light on how to find it? It must be well hidden. thanks in advance, Darrell
Old 06-22-2011, 12:34 PM   #7
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

It's located under the hood on the driver side fender. You have 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood and the other on the driver side of the dash and is accessible with the door open.
Old 06-22-2011, 10:49 PM   #8
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Unhappy Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Quote: Originally Posted by deathphoenix99
It's located under the hood on the driver side fender. You have 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood and the other on the driver side of the dash and is accessible with the door open.
I respectfully disagree. The factory schematic drawing for a 2002 s10, clearly shows, & says it's behind the left side of the dash just right of the I/P fuse panel. I have had the Instrument Panel fuse block out, & it is not in the area as the diagram says. I'm at my wits end. It's well hidden. Any suggestions?
Old 06-23-2011, 07:42 AM   #9
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

What exactly are you looking for. I said where the ONLY fuse panels are. Apparently you're wanting a specific relay or something, so what exactly are you wanting, or what does it control and I can help you find it.
Old 06-23-2011, 09:13 AM   #10
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

The 2002 must be different than my 99, which doesn't have that particular block. Mine has what Phil said....an underhood relay box with 4 separate bolt-driven connectors. In Crono's, it appears to be a single bolt driven connector w/o any weather protection (inside cab).
Interested to see where this goes. Me like to play with wires & terminals.
Old 06-23-2011, 09:25 AM   #11
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I'd like to apologize, I thought the thread was talking about the fuse block under the hood, I didn't pay close enough attention since I don't have one. The Body Relay block you are looking for should be in the dash. It may not be easy to get to though. I was thinking about the fuse block which does have relays on it as well. The in dash relay block has the door lock relay, R.A.P., Headlight Ground Relay etc......


This should help you out.
Old 06-23-2011, 10:37 PM   #12
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Thanks, I found it, and it's a bear to get to, but I can remove it when the time comes. I have since gone to the local salvage yard, and pulled a doner from a 2002 2-door s10 blazer equipped with power locks, seats, & power windows. My goal is to retro fit my s10 with factory power windows, & eventually aftermarket power locks, since it's too big a hassle for factory locks, as the wiring has to go through the BCM, with reprogramming involved. The power windows is my first project. The window switch wiring has to go through the body relay block via 2 dark green heavy gauge wires to a 30 amp breaker. I could sure use some advice here as to whether to use the entire doner relay block, which I don't want to do, as I'd have to splice a million wires, some very heavy gauge, which I think would only create future problems, or a fire. Or try to take both relay blocks apart, and add the needed 2 dark green wires, along with the needed internal pins, & parts, from the doner to my existing block, which would not require splices. Any advice from anyone who has been there will be gratefully appreciated. I am new to this forum, so perhaps someone else has already done this on a 1999 & up s10 or sonoma. Thank You in advance, Darrell
Old 06-24-2011, 12:03 AM   #13
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

It's easier to make the power locks be wired up the same way a 94 S10 is wired. I added power windows/locks/mirrors to my truck, so I know.
Old 06-24-2011, 07:34 PM   #14
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Quote: Originally Posted by deathphoenix99
It's easier to make the power locks be wired up the same way a 94 S10 is wired. I added power windows/locks/mirrors to my truck, so I know.
That's a very interesting idea, but two questions come to mind. Can the factory "rocker" type switches that are mounted in the 2002 armrests be wired in like a 94 s10, and I want to be able to wire in a remote module so the locks can be opened with a fob. Is that also doable wired as a 94? Do you have a wiring schematic you could send to show how this would be done? Would it also be possible for me to wire in the power windows like a 94, in order to bypass messing with the body relay block altogether? I want to use the O.E.M. power window motor setup. A wiring diagram for this would also be very helpful. I may even eventually put in power mirrors like you did. Thanks for your help.
Old 06-25-2011, 04:45 PM   #15
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I'll comment tonight when I have free time. And yes it will all work.
Old 06-26-2011, 12:34 AM   #16
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Quote: Originally Posted by Darrells02zq8
That's a very interesting idea, but two questions come to mind. Can the factory "rocker" type switches that are mounted in the 2002 armrests be wired in like a 94 s10, and I want to be able to wire in a remote module so the locks can be opened with a fob. Is that also doable wired as a 94? Do you have a wiring schematic you could send to show how this would be done? Would it also be possible for me to wire in the power windows like a 94, in order to bypass messing with the body relay block altogether? I want to use the O.E.M. power window motor setup. A wiring diagram for this would also be very helpful. I may even eventually put in power mirrors like you did. Thanks for your help.
I wired mine up like factory for the most part, I made some modifications to the wiring so that I can open/close my windows with my Keyless entry. Also I have auto up/down windows, so I don't have to hold the button for them. I also have keyless entry installed that works with my locks, so my windows and locks are on the same fob. The power windows are all wired like the 94 for the most part I believe. And the locks are simple to install like mine, but you need to get 1 wire/pin from a spare connect to add to the connector for the power locks. Because without the relay block, the stock connector doesnt have the extra wire you need, but it's easy to add pins, I did it. The button module is the same for 94+ BTW. It's the wiring that changed. There are wiring diagrams in my sig for the 94 S10. So click on that. And this is from another thread I posted in.

Quote: Originally Posted by deathphoenix99
How to wire up stock switches with relays, relays can be controlled by another switch or even a keyless entry system.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/hi...button-437161/

Some useful threads.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/po...ersion-415460/
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/ma...stions-428135/
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/po...wiring-465994/
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/wi...how-to-316033/
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/co...t=power+window
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f26/ad...indows-469719/


This is for auto up or auto down, makes it nice once you install them.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/in...en-s10-414482/

Might be useful....
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/wi...estion-439171/


That's enough for now, if you look through them, they might help a lot. Just depends on how much you want to learn.
Old 07-22-2011, 11:48 PM   #17
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Okay, I have installed power windows in my 2002 s10, wired like a 1994, and they worked out great. Thanks for your help, But I'm now back to what I think will be the toughest retrofit, and that is to install power locks with keyless entry, or remote control fob. I want to be able to use the factory switches built into the 2002 factory armrest/door panels I installed, to retain a factory look. But I don't want to have to wire the locks like in a 2002 wiring schematic, (too big a hassle), and very complicated. Is there an aftermarket power lock kit out there, that is well made, with keyless remote, that will be compatible with the factory door lock switches? Or can you recommend a method to wire up factory power door locks with remote that doesn't require a degree in electrical engineering? Thanks in advance, Darrell
Old 07-23-2011, 01:06 AM   #18
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

the stock switches will work, just wire it like a 94 also. And I have a thread somewhere I believe for that as well. Either way, you'll need to get 2 pins/wires to add to the factory connector as the 95+ use a body relay block for the locks.
Old 07-24-2011, 10:55 PM   #19
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

What about the keyless receiver? If I pick up an o.e.m. one from the junk yard, how do I wire it in? I don't want to mess with the body relay block, or the body control module, or the on board computer. And if the keyless fobs aren't with it, can they be bought & programed inexpensively from the chevy or GMC dealers, or ????? I'll need more detailed info, & a wiring schematic as far as the additional pins you mentioned. I'm not sure what you are referring to, with the added pins. Thank You for your help. Darrell
Old 07-25-2011, 07:38 AM   #20
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I'd go with an aftermarket keyless entry. It'll be a lot easier and less of a pain. And by adding pins, I mean on the connector for the locks, there is 1 wire missing that you need for them to work without the relay block. The switches are all setup the same, but the connector just doesn't have the 1 wire extra needed, so it's really easy to add the wire. I'll have to check and see which pin is missing, as I'm not sure off hand.
Old 07-25-2011, 10:41 PM   #21
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

Which aftermarket keyless entry is compatible with the factory switch buttons on the driver's master control, & the passenger door lock button? Thanks, Darrell
Old 07-25-2011, 11:54 PM   #22
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

all of them should work with the truck. Just wire it up correctly and you'll be fine. I installed the keyless just like it said to, pretty easy to be honest.
Old 08-03-2011, 11:08 PM   #23
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I've decided to wire the door locks like a 1994, the way you said you did. The factory 1998-2003 door switches don't have the proper number of wires to work. Would you please email a diagram to me, showing just how you did it? The factory C1 wire connectors to the switches are what I need help with, like where to add wires, & what job will what wire do, & where to connect the wires from the driver's side C1 connector, to the passenger side C1 connector, and at what pin position? Thank You, Darrell
Old 08-30-2011, 01:44 PM   #24
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I found mine under the dash like you said, but how in the world do you get it down? Is there a clip or something, cause I can't see s**t back there. Thanks.

Red05BlaZeR2
Old 12-02-2011, 05:10 AM   #25
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Re: 98+ Sonoma - Body Relay Block

I was just wondering. I have a 97 pick up (non power) and doors from a 97 jimmy power. I was testing with a 12/5 battery. The wires from the door are hanging out about 10" where they wher all cut off evenly. On the driver door I put the yellow to + and the black to- That seemed to make that the driver door switch operate up and down plus the auto down worked. If I just put a 30amp fuse in line with the yellow, am I running a risk of a fire? I was also able to make the passenger side work by putting+ on the dark blue and putting tan and ( think it was light blue) to ground.
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