Project: Save Dad's Truck from the Scrap Heap

[stevbrei]

It sounds like my sister is having a friend of hers put a new motor (2.8) in our dad's '88 Buick Regal. It really seems like he had a thing for 1988's with 2.8's, but it really was just a coincidence. He also had an '88 Chevy Celebrity with a 2.8 that he gave me when I was 17. God, if I could only get my hands on that car again, I'd get rid of the Mazda in a second.

[Sonomanclature]

Never been to Mt. Evans lol, too far for me to drive though. trucks a pig and i dont get paid until the end of the month..

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

Never been to Mt. Evans lol, too far for me to drive though. trucks a pig and i dont get paid until the end of the month..

Yeah, with the weather the way it's been this weekend so far, Mt. Evans will have to wait a week or so. I didn't get to the UPull yesterday to get a temp sender either.

[Sonomanclature]

weak sauce.

[tytotheler92]

The 2.8s and 3.1s were awesome. They're really durable too.

*goes back to lurking*

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by tytotheler92

The 2.8s and 3.1s were awesome. They're really durable too.

*goes back to lurking*

IMO, the 2.8 (especially the front wheel drive MPFI version, along with the 3.1) is better than the 2.5, but there's nothing special about it. It's just an average early 80's technology pushrod V6.

[stevbrei]

Took the radio trim out to clean it again...for the third time...and it's STILL not clean. I also took out the old 12-volt outlet and threw it away. It looked like it was all rusty inside, so I figured it's not worth putting it back in.


Since I have no need for a cigarette lighter, I have a Griffin PowerJolt Dual USB adapter in there. I had it in there before, but it's never worked since the old outlet wasn't connected to anything. I have one in the Mazda, and it works great. I suggest it for anyone who doesn't use the cigarette lighter in their vehicle.


The original 12v outlet wasn't connected to anything. The wires were just hanging off the back of it. So, now I'm headed to the store to pick up some wire and connectors. We'll see if I can actually find where to connect them and get it to work.

[DWN2ERTH]

Good job so far on the progress. And that speedway blue is gonna look great on your truck. Keep up the good work.

[nick8788]

I actually have one of those plugs.. was great for chargin my phone and GPS unit when i needed to.

[tytotheler92]

Quote:

is better than the 2.5, but there's nothing special about it. It's just an average early 80's technology pushrod V6

I'm not arguing this at all, but by awesome I meant that they're just really durable. I had a Lumina Van that ran with almost no coolant for about 30 miles without blowing a head gasket. I was pretty impressed when I figured that one out. Couldn't move that van worth a damn, but its made it well over 200k since then. The only thing that had gone wrong with it was the alternator.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by tytotheler92

I'm not arguing this at all, but by awesome I meant that they're just really durable. I had a Lumina Van that ran with almost no coolant for about 30 miles without blowing a head gasket. I was pretty impressed when I figured that one out. Couldn't move that van worth a damn, but its made it well over 200k since then. The only thing that had gone wrong with it was the alternator.

The blue Buick that my sister is replacing the motor on has a blown head gasket, but it's also got a few miles on it. The odometer reads something like 148,000. My dad bought the car in 1998, and the previous owner said the odometer hadn't worked in years, so he estimated it had something like 180,000. My dad probably put around 20,000 miles on it before it started leaking coolant like crazy. He figured it had a blown head gasket, so he just let it sit. It sat for about five years before my sister picked it up after he passed away. She had someone look at it, and they told her it just needed a new water pump. She drove it for a couple of years, and probably put another 10,000 miles on it before she found out that it did, in fact, have a blown head gasket. But the whole rest of the car is in such good shape that she decided to just buy a used motor and have someone install it. The 2.8 may be old technology, and make no power, but I'll agree with you...they get the job done well.

[stevbrei]

My mom told me that my niece is a bit upset with her for not teaching her to drive a stick shift, so she could have gotten the truck. So my mom asked her, "Oh, so you were planning on getting it running? I didn't realize that."
My niece said, "NO...but we could have taken it to a mechanic."
So my mom told her, "Well, your uncle has put over $1000 into it so far, and to have a mechanic do what he's done would cost a lot more than that. And he's planning to spend a lot more to get it looking good and handling well. Do you have that kind of money?"
My niece just blew her off and said, "Gawd, you just don't get it!"

Mmhmm...I know that if she had that truck, she would hate it. She'd complain about it every day, and she absolutely wouldn't take care of it. Even if my sister would have spent the money to tow it to a mechanic to get it running, I'm certain my niece would have it in a junkyard in two years just from the lack of maintenance.

[Sonomanclature]

Sounds as though some one is not happy that it is in the shape it is now. since they can't have it.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

Sounds as though some one is not happy that it is in the shape it is now. since they can't have it.

Yeah. It was never hers in the first place, so it's not like she's missing out on something she was supposed to have. My mom told her "It was a worn-out piece of junk that meant nothing to you anyway."

[CleanFreak]

that truck is really looking good man! and that sounds like my sister, she gets handed $8k cars and totals them right and left. Then gets mad that my $3k cars and trucks that i have to work for look better than hers. Some people just don't have respect for their vehicles. anyways keep it up!

[nick8788]

Quote: Originally Posted by CleanFreak

that truck is really looking good man! and that sounds like my sister, she gets handed $8k cars and totals them right and left. Then gets mad that my $3k cars and trucks that i have to work for look better than hers. Some people just don't have respect for their vehicles. anyways keep it up!

Of course not, People only respect them if they had to work for them.. And I know its true.. my first car was given to me.. treated it like crap... my car that I bought, oo it was maintained like a baby.. and now my truck.. minus someone else damagin it has been getting the same treatment.. well taken care of.. (well at least its goin in for paint tomorrow)

[stevbrei]

I think I'm going to have to wait to get the 12v plug wired up until I have time (and help) to pull the whole dash out. I have no idea why the original wire was cut in the first place, but I can't find it, and everything is buried behind everything else in there. I only need the socket to charge my phone or iPod, which isn't that important right now. I've been planning on pulling the dash at some point soon so I can dye it black or cover it with vinyl, clean the dirt out from behind it, and replace the heater core (since the truck is 24 years old, and it's only a matter of time before it sprays coolant all over the interior like so many of you have experienced.)

A few days ago, I pulled the driver's side door panel again to find out what's still rattling behind there after I replaced the rattling door handle. It turned out to be the rod that goes from the door handle to the latch. It didn't seem like there was any way to tighten it though, so I took some foam weatherstripping and wrapped it around the top and bottom of the rod. It STILL rattles a bit, but not quite as bad as it was. Eventually, I'll take the door apart again when I paint the truck, so I'll try again to get rid of the rattling for good.

I didn't take any pics because I figured you've all seen the inside of a door. Now that I think of it, I should have, because you would not believe the dirt inside there. The entire interior has been covered in a thick layer of dust...it got inside everything...it's under the flooring, behind the dash, inside the instrument panel, above the headliner, all over inside the vents to the point where I can't get them clean because as soon as I turn on the fan, it blows more dust out which coats the vents again. Behind the door panels was covered with a layer of dirt about 1/8 of an inch thick in some places. It's just unbelievable. No matter how clean I get the truck, it still smells old and dirty, because it's so full of dirt. It's like the thing spent its life in the Australian outback...but it was just North...freaking...Dakota.

It'll get done though.

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

I think I'm going to have to wait to get the 12v plug wired up until I have time (and help) to pull the whole dash out. I have no idea why the original wire was cut in the first place, but I can't find it, and everything is buried behind everything else in there. I only need the socket to charge my phone or iPod, which isn't that important right now. I've been planning on pulling the dash at some point soon so I can dye it black or cover it with vinyl, clean the dirt out from behind it, and replace the heater core (since the truck is 24 years old, and it's only a matter of time before it sprays coolant all over the interior like so many of you have experienced.)

A few days ago, I pulled the driver's side door panel again to find out what's still rattling behind there after I replaced the rattling door handle. It turned out to be the rod that goes from the door handle to the latch. It didn't seem like there was any way to tighten it though, so I took some foam weatherstripping and wrapped it around the top and bottom of the rod. It STILL rattles a bit, but not quite as bad as it was. Eventually, I'll take the door apart again when I paint the truck, so I'll try again to get rid of the rattling for good.

I didn't take any pics because I figured you've all seen the inside of a door. Now that I think of it, I should have, because you would not believe the dirt inside there. The entire interior has been covered in a thick layer of dust...it got inside everything...it's under the flooring, behind the dash, inside the instrument panel, above the headliner, all over inside the vents to the point where I can't get them clean because as soon as I turn on the fan, it blows more dust out which coats the vents again. Behind the door panels was covered with a layer of dirt about 1/8 of an inch thick in some places. It's just unbelievable. No matter how clean I get the truck, it still smells old and dirty, because it's so full of dirt. It's like the thing spent its life in the Australian outback...but it was just North...freaking...Dakota.

It'll get done though.

If you have time tomorrow, and want help let me know, I have nothing planned, other than bringing the girl to work at noon, i am free until 9.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

If you have time tomorrow, and want help let me know, I have nothing planned, other than bringing the girl to work at noon, i am free until 9.

Thanks, man. I won't have time to work on it tomorrow. Some weekend soon though, I'll need to replace the steering box and rag joint. Have you ever tackled that job?

[jasond]

If you need any pointers on pulling the dash, pm me. I've pulled and swapped dashes in my Blazer, and helped a buddy pull the dash in his. It's really not too terribly difficult.

*vote to ban the 1 post douchebag ragging on this thread...

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

Thanks, man. I won't have time to work on it tomorrow. Some weekend soon though, I'll need to replace the steering box and rag joint. Have you ever tackled that job?

right on, gearbox isn't too bad, so long as the fittings come out nicely, and are you replacing just the ruber part of the joint, or going with something elce?. either way its not too difficult. I have this Sat, and Sunday comming up off, unless something comes up, ill be playing some CoD, or sleeping my weekend away. lol

[stevbrei]

Happy Father's Day, Dad. I won't forget what this project is all about. I know that to you, it was just an old truck. But to me, it's more than that. It's your truck. I remember talking about how much we both wanted S-10's since I was in high school, and now we have one. I'm going to work on it the way you taught me to do it, and in a few years, it's going to be exactly the truck we dreamed we'd be looking at in your driveway.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

right on, gearbox isn't too bad, so long as the fittings come out nicely, and are you replacing just the ruber part of the joint, or going with something elce?. either way its not too difficult. I have this Sat, and Sunday comming up off, unless something comes up, ill be playing some CoD, or sleeping my weekend away. lol

I'm hoping to replace the rag joint with a Flaming River u-joint, but the last attempt I made failed, since the intermediate shaft is seized up. I got some PB Blaster, and sprayed that on it a few days ago. I'll try spraying it on it again a few more times today and then see if I can get the joint replaced today, if I have time. Then maybe next week replace the steering box and possibly install the tach cluster. I'm thinking of making a trip to the UPull next Saturday to find a temperature sending unit for my new gauge cluster.

[88redblaze]

keep pluggin away at it, it'll get there

[greatdane68]

Yep. It just takes time and patience.
And to the one-post flamer, F**K OFF!!!!!!

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

I'm hoping to replace the rag joint with a Flaming River u-joint, but the last attempt I made failed, since the intermediate shaft is seized up. I got some PB Blaster, and sprayed that on it a few days ago. I'll try spraying it on it again a few more times today and then see if I can get the joint replaced today, if I have time. Then maybe next week replace the steering box and possibly install the tach cluster. I'm thinking of making a trip to the UPull next Saturday to find a temperature sending unit for my new gauge cluster.

I got this whole weekend free, if you need help with anything.

[bmxzach]

Hey remember when you wanted to get rid of it and I told you not to? Welcome! Aha

[stevbrei]

@Sonomanclature: Thanks, man. I really appreciate it, but with it being around 100º today and tomorrow, I don't think I'm going to do anything with the truck this weekend. I'm looking forward to working on it again soon though. Maybe I should tint the windows to make it a bit less hot in the cab.

@bmxzach: I think of that almost every time I drive it. I think I've actually given up on the project at least four times. It's been tumultuous at times, but it's getting better.

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

@Sonomanclature: Thanks, man. I really appreciate it, but with it being around 100º today and tomorrow, I don't think I'm going to do anything with the truck this weekend. I'm looking forward to working on it again soon though. Maybe I should tint the windows to make it a bit less hot in the cab.

@bmxzach: I think of that almost every time I drive it. I think I've actually given up on the project at least four times. It's been tumultuous at times, but it's getting better.

eh, I hope you have AC, and a windshield shade. even with the tint on the noma, it is hot. and since my AC does not work, I drive with my window down, which defeats the point of the tint lol.

[stevbrei]

Haha, nope...no A/C for now. The compressor seized a couple of years ago, and the asshole mechanics up north in "oil-boom country" told my mom it would cost a couple grand to replace. So, she just had them remove the compressor. I originally wasn't planning on fixing the A/C anytime soon, but this last week, I've been thinking it's going to be a bit more of a priority.

And the vinyl seat just makes the heat that much more fun.

[tytotheler92]

Ac can make a "junky" car feel so much nicer, and you'll be more apt to drive it.

Atleast for me.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by tytotheler92

Ac can make a "junky" car feel so much nicer, and you'll be more apt to drive it.

Atleast for me.

Are you calling my truck junky?
Haha j/k

[J@mes]

Sweet project. I want a longbed sooo bad. About the limited slip,look in the glovebox for a g80 code. If you see that,it's factory limited slip. If anything,i vote lift it,not lower. It would look pretty good with just a 3" lift in the front to level it out. I havent had my 2.8 for very long,but i love it. It doesnt have near the amount of power that my 4.3 has,but it's a good engine. I'm anxious to see how this project goes.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Kiko

Sweet project. I want a longbed sooo bad. About the limited slip,look in the glovebox for a g80 code. If you see that,it's factory limited slip. If anything,i vote lift it,not lower. It would look pretty good with just a 3" lift in the front to level it out. I havent had my 2.8 for very long,but i love it. It doesnt have near the amount of power that my 4.3 has,but it's a good engine. I'm anxious to see how this project goes.

Thanks, man. It's funny...when my dad first bought it, I thought "Why would he get a long bed?" But now I love it. He also had a long bed '84 Mazda B2000 that seemed to be in better shape...it had better paint, anyway. I was supposed to have gotten that truck, and my brother was going to have the S10, but we ended up selling the Mazda because we couldn't get it running, and we had to get it off of his property when we sold his house.

I did find the G80 code a few weeks ago when I was looking through the papers my dad had with the truck. He wrote down all of the RPO codes from the glove box, and then used an RPO decoder on this forum and wrote down all of the equipment/options the truck had.

At this point, I'm not going to do anything to the suspension height. It has sufficient ground clearance to make it up the road to the Gray's Peak Trail...at least in the condition the road was in last year. I'd consider lifting it and putting bigger tires underneath it, but that'll have to be in the future, after an engine swap.

[tytotheler92]

Quote:

Are you calling my truck junky?
Haha j/k

To us, its got potential and its an S-10.

To most its junk, yes. xD lol

[J@mes]

Why engine swap?

[greatdane68]

Because he want race truck! LOL!!!

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Kiko

Why engine swap?

I don't have any plans for an engine swap anytime soon. But if I were to lift it and put larger tires under it, I'd have to put something more powerful in it. The 2.8 can barely turn the tires that are on it. I don't see that ever happening though.

[J@mes]

My 2.8 does fine with the tires i put on. They're not huge mud tires or anything. Just stock 4wd size (235/75/15) I'm not sure what gearing you have.

[stevbrei]

It looks like it's got the 3.42 gearing.

[stevbrei]

Got a list of all of the RPO codes.



A01: WINDOW, TINTED, ALL SHADED, W/S (about to be tinted with 20% film)

A52: SEAT, FRT BENCH
CNX
C3A: GVW RATING, 4400 LBS
C60: HVAC SYSTEM, AIR CONDITIONER FRT MAN CONTROLS (yeah, but there's no compressor, so there's no A/C anymore.)

DAY: PLANT CODE MORAINE, OH, USA
D1C: GEAR, SPEEDO DRIVEN
D44: MIRROR O/S, PAINTED
E4B: EQUIPMENT CKD RUSSIA (CKD) (Um...no. It was not a complete-knock-down kit shipped to Russia. That is not the case.)

E6F: COUNTRY GEORGIA (This truck seems fairly certain it was destined to live its life in the former Soviet Union)

E63: BODY EQUIPMENT, FLEETSIDE, PUBX
E9Z: SPEEDOMETER KEY DELETE (

F51: SHOCK ABSORBERS, FRT & RR, HD
F59: STABILIZER SHAFT FR,
GAM: GOVERNMENT FLEET
GQ1: AXLE, STD RATIO
GU6: AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO (I know nothing about axle gearing ratios)

G51: SPRING REAR, HEAVY DUTY, VAR 2
G80: AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP (I'm hoping this will make it handle better in the snow than my Mazda.)

JB3: BRAKE, POWER, DISC/DRUM, 4600 LBS
JM5: BOOSTER, BRAKE, 200MM TANDEM, HIGH FLOW
J50: BRAKE SYSTEM, POWER
LL2: ENGINE, GAS, 6 CYL, 2.8L, 1 TBI, V6, 60 DEG, HO ("HO," as in high output? If that's the case, I'd hate to see how slow the standard output 2.8L is.)

ML3: TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD, BORG WARNER, 77MM, 3.76
MM5: MERCHANDISED TRANS, MAN 5 SPD PROVISIONS
NA5: EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER O
NK2: CUSHIONED STEERING WHEEL (And now it has the leather wheel from a '92 Blazer.)

N40: STEERING, POWER, NON-VARIABLE RATIO
QMW: TIRE ALL, P195/75R14/N BL R/PE ST TL ALS (Not anymore. Now it has 215/65R15)

SLL: SALES PROCESSING SOLD ORDERS
TEJ: DISCOUNT DEALER ALLOWANCE, ADMINISTRATIVE
TFD: SALES INCENTIVE RETAIL AMENITIES - DELETE
UP8: STEREO RADIO INSTALLMENT PROVISIONS
UU9: RADIO, AM/FM STEREO, ETR (Now has a cassette player)

U73: ANTENNA, FIXED, RADIO
V01: RADIATOR, HEAVY DUTY, VAR I
V43: BUMPER – PAINTED, REAR STEP – WITH STEP PAD
V73: ANTENNA, FIXED (Is it really necessary to have two RPO codes dealing with the antenna?)

XMW: TIRE FRONT P195/75R14/N BL R/PE ST TL ALS (Yes, we covered that before, but thanks for reminding me in case I had forgotten...although it doesn't have that size anymore.)

YD3: FRONT AXLE, BASE EQUIPMENT FOR SCHEDULING, GVW PLATE
YD5: SPRING FRONT BASE EQUIPMENT
YMW: TIRE REAR P195/75R14/N BL R/PE ST TL ALS (They were fairly certain to drive home the point that it had that particular tire size, weren't they? Are they trying to say I shouldn't have changed the tire size?)

ZK4
ZMW
ZY1: COLOR COMBINATION, SOLID
1Q8: VEHICLE INSPECTION GSA FORM 1398
23I: INTERIOR TRIM, LT BLUE (91)
23V: TRIM COMBINATION,VINYL, BLUE (V)
24U: PRIMARY COLOR, EXTERIOR, BRIGHT BLUE MET (91) (Yeah, it would be nice if it were still bright blue metallic. Now, it's just satin black out of a spray can)

6CD: COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP
7CD: COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP
8E1: FUEL, ADDITIONAL 3 GALLONS (3 gallons in addition to what?)

[J@mes]

You're so lucky to have the g80 axle,if it still works. I have the actual locker or whatever to go into my axle,but lack knowledge on installing so i'm probably gonna just look for a junkyard axle.

The 3.42 is what i have. It's not the lowest gearing option,but not the hardest. When i said mine does fine,i will admit that it's slow,but it spins the wheels fine. When offroading,i keep it in 1st and have no problem with power. On the road,it doesnt throw you back in the seat,but it is a 2.8 afterall.


Your list of codes makes me want to write down all of mine and de-code each one. The only one i decoded was the axle gearing.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Kiko

You're so lucky to have the g80 axle,if it still works. I have the actual locker or whatever to go into my axle,but lack knowledge on installing so i'm probably gonna just look for a junkyard axle.

The 3.42 is what i have. It's not the lowest gearing option,but not the hardest. When i said mine does fine,i will admit that it's slow,but it spins the wheels fine. When offroading,i keep it in 1st and have no problem with power. On the road,it doesnt throw you back in the seat,but it is a 2.8 afterall.


Your list of codes makes me want to write down all of mine and de-code each one. The only one i decoded was the axle gearing.

I drove it a couple of times since you posted that, and it's true, it turns out it's not the slowest thing on four wheels. It's better with the new plugs and wires, and should be even better with the new cap and rotor, once that's done. I haven't done much to it at all in the past month or so, since it's been so hot outside, but I'm still planning on getting the steering box and rag joint done soon.

I'm trying to save up a down payment for a house, so I'll actually have a place to work on the truck, so until then, I don't think I'll be spending a lot more on it. But once I have a new place, the progress should speed up quite a bit.

I almost forgot. I bought some stuff to attempt to make a set of center caps for the wheels. I'll let you all how that turns out, so stay tuned...

[tytotheler92]

Quote:

8E1: FUEL, ADDITIONAL 3 GALLONS (3 gallons in addition to what?)

That just kinda made me fall over. Like, what exactly does that mean?! haha. Do you have a little tank hidden somewhere as a reserve? lol.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by tytotheler92

That just kinda made me fall over. Like, what exactly does that mean?! haha. Do you have a little tank hidden somewhere as a reserve? lol.

I know, I laughed when I read that one the first time too. It does have the 20 gallon tank, but I have no idea what this additional 3 gallons means, considering the only other available tank was 13 gallons. I guess it just means it has the bigger of the two tanks, and someone at GM didn't know how to do math.

I'm going to start referring to it as an "S10 with the 8E1 package," and then when people ask what that means, I'll act like.. "Um...everyone knows that means it has an additional 3-gallon fuel capacity!"

[CleanFreak]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

I'm going to start referring to it as an "S10 with the 8E1 package," and then when people ask what that means, I'll act like.. "Um...everyone knows that means it has an additional 3-gallon fuel capacity!"

[85Monster]

Dang, wish I had the codes for my truck. That's pretty cool..

[stevbrei]

I'm working on a solution to the center cap issue. They're pretty much nonexistent. The ones I've been able to find have been ridiculously expensive (at least $20 each.)

I was going to wait until I finished them before I posted anything, but I decided that I'll post pics as I go instead.

I bought a $7 length of 3" PVC pipe and four plastic end caps for 75¢ each.


And I cut it to a length of 2-1/4". With the end cap on, it looks like it'll fit up against the center of the wheel.


Painted silver or black, with a Chevy emblem (which I can get on eBay no problem) I think they'll look good. It looks like I'm going to have to refinish the wheels before I put the caps on though. Haha

I'll finish cutting out the other three today. I'm just trying to figure out how to attach the caps to the wheels. My thoughts are to find some sort of thinner PVC to make tabs out of that will give me more surface area to glue the whole assembly to the wheel.

Just in case I need to take the caps off, the cap on the very end won't be glued to the PVC pipe. I'll just get three small screws and screw them to the pipe so that it'll be easier to remove.

Thoughts?

[CleanFreak]

eeehhhh idk about glue holding them on. im sure it would be fine around town. but it could be bad news bears on the highway lol. Then again my plasti-dip is holding up great.... so i'd probably give it a shot

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by CleanFreak

eeehhhh idk about glue holding them on. im sure it would be fine around town. but it could be bad news bears on the highway lol. Then again my plasti-dip is holding up great.... so i'd probably give it a shot

A lot of people have used silicone to hold their center caps on. It seems to work well. I won't try to just butt the cap up to the wheel and glue it on that way. I'm trying to figure out something to glue to the inside of the cap that will also overlap the inside of the wheel.