Project: Save Dad's Truck from the Scrap Heap

[stevbrei]

I believe I may have left out some more things that need to be replaced. Since the steering wheel turns right easier than it turns left, and what seems like a foot of play in the steering, I'm going to go ahead and replace the steering box with a quick-ratio unit for a Monte Carlo, so there's another $140 to add to my budget. The steering shaft inside the column is also loose, which leads me to believe that someone pounded on the shaft while trying to repair something, breaking the spot welds that hold the telescoping shaft together. So, even though I was able to replace the ignition lock and fix the turn signal/canceling cam/horn, I'll still have to replace the whole column. My God, I think the only steering component that I won't be replacing will be the intermediate shaft. So, that'll set me back yet another $60.

I also forgot center caps for the aluminum wheels. If I can actually find the right caps for these wheels, they'll be well over $100 for a set. I've also been looking at these caps for a Firebird, which will probably fit, and would cost only $53 with shipping, but I'm not certain that they'll fit, so it'd still be a gamble. I'm still thinking of making a set of center caps, but the clips for them would cost just as much as those Firebird caps, so as of now, that's not really an option.

It'll also need a brake job soon, and I have no idea what that's going to cost, but it'll at the very least include new pads and shoes as well as a fluid change, but I may need new drums and rotors. Is there anyone in the Denver area who could help me with this? I've never done brakes before, and if I bring it somewhere, it'll cost over $1000 to do all of this.

I'm getting a bit overwhelmed. I know if I take my time, it'll all happen, but an awful lot of it needs to be done quite soon.

[distortion]

Projects take time.. stick with it, it'll be worth it in the end. Having a solid, tight, dependable truck is reward enough... but it is even better when it was your dads.

[bmxzach]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

The steering shaft inside the column is also loose, which leads me to believe that someone pounded on the shaft while trying to repair something, breaking the spot welds that hold the telescoping shaft together.

wait, you're telling me that the shaft that goes through the steering column itself telescopes too? i know the shaft that goes between the firewall and the steering box does for sure, but didn't know about the column.. if you're talking about the one in the engine bay, it should NOT be tacked together...

brakes are easy dude, especially if you don't need rotors. drum brakes are another story, I still **** em up once in a while.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by bmxzach

wait, you're telling me that the shaft that goes through the steering column itself telescopes too? i know the shaft that goes between the firewall and the steering box does for sure, but didn't know about the column.. if you're talking about the one in the engine bay, it should NOT be tacked together...

brakes are easy dude, especially if you don't need rotors. drum brakes are another story, I still **** em up once in a while.

Yeah, I read that the shaft inside the column telescopes also, but is tacked together. it's supposed to be a safety feature that collapses the steering column if you hit the steering wheel in a collision. They said not to pound on the steering shaft, because that tack weld can break and cause the shaft to become loose. The only way to fix it is to replace the column, but it's been hard to find a non-cruise, non-tilting, floor shift column so far. I've been trying to find where I read that, but can't find it anymore.

[bmxzach]

hmm, interesting. I have multiple columns that fit your needs haha

[stevbrei]

Zach, I'd ask you if you wanted to sell one of those columns, but I can imagine shipping from Ontario would probably be higher than the cost of buying one here at the U-pull-it yard. I'm sure I'll find one. The last time I was there, I was looking for other things, and completely forgot to look for a column.

Has anyone reading this ever installed a tach cluster in a truck like mine which just has warning lights? I've done multiple searches on the forum, and a few have said there are no modifications to make to the cluster, and others have said they had to rewire some of the pins. When I bought the cluster (which is also for an 88), I was under the impression that all I'd have to do would be install the correct sending units for the temp and oil pressure gauges, and wire in the tach. Is that correct?

[stevbrei]

Aaahh...I keep forgetting to have the emissions tested so I can transfer the registration to Colorado. I'm going to have to take a whole day off from work to do that.

[s10driver91]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

Zach, I'd ask you if you wanted to sell one of those columns, but I can imagine shipping from Ontario would probably be higher than the cost of buying one here at the U-pull-it yard. I'm sure I'll find one. The last time I was there, I was looking for other things, and completely forgot to look for a column.

Has anyone reading this ever installed a tach cluster in a truck like mine which just has warning lights? I've done multiple searches on the forum, and a few have said there are no modifications to make to the cluster, and others have said they had to rewire some of the pins. When I bought the cluster (which is also for an 88), I was under the impression that all I'd have to do would be install the correct sending units for the temp and oil pressure gauges, and wire in the tach. Is that correct?

Pretty sure that all you will need to do!

[stevbrei]

Taking it for emissions testing tomorrow morning...fingers crossed.

[stevbrei]

I got a new temperature sending unit and the pigtail for it to get the temperature gauge on my "new" instrument panel working. I've been searching the forum, trying to figure out which wire is which, so that I don't connect it backwards, and now I'm reading some say that the sensor that runs the temp gauge only has one wire. I am so...tired...of...getting the wrong parts. Can anyone tell me if I plug this in, will my temperature gauge work?

[stevbrei]

Passed emissions...barely. The HC reading is super high, which means I'm either getting too much fuel through the TBI, or not enough spark to burn it all off...and yet another project to work on.

[nick8788]

Yea.. but still makes it worth it in the end. At least it passed and you dont have to do work to it ASAP to get it to pass.

[spike10]

I think of projects in terms of car payments
Avg car payment is $400 a month
So when you do stuff to your car every month, its usually about the same as a car payment, some more some less.
And some months you dont have to do anything at all = $0
you will spend less than the price of a new vehicle/truck in the long run and at the end of 5 years,
a- if you bought an new vehicle youd have a $2500 vehicle anyway - if your lucky
b- you have a project you built - priceless

Keep the pics and reports coming... and leave it primered, less chance of getting broke into

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by nick8788

Yea.. but still makes it worth it in the end. At least it passed and you dont have to do work to it ASAP to get it to pass.

I figured the HC reading would be high, because the exhaust smells like gasoline. My thoughts are that the TBI is still somewhat gummed up from sitting for over a year. But you're right. Figuring that problem out doesn't have to be a priority yet. I have two years before I have to have it tested again.

Heading to the used parts yard this afternoon to scope out a new steering column. Here's hoping I can find a floor-shift one without cruise control. I suppose worst case scenario, I get one with cruise and I switch out the multifunction switch...but I don't want to open that can of worms.

[greatdane68]

That's not hard to do at all man!

[stevbrei]

We couldn't find any floor shift columns worth pulling. Of the myriad of S10's and Blazers/Jimmies, there were only maybe three or four that weren't automatics, and they were all in some state of disassembly. So we started looking for a driver's side fender to replace the one with the huge rust hole on mine. We worked for an hour trying to get that fender off, and it still wouldn't budge. God, we had to have removed at least twenty bolts, and removed the cowl cover. It was still hung up on something. We left empty handed because the yard was closing.

[bmxzach]

I skipped a few, so i'm sorry if it's been answered, but the 2-wire sensor is for the funny circuit board thing called a computer and the single wire is for your gauge. IIRC the single wire uses a green wire. I have full access to diagrams if needed.

[stevbrei]

I found this printout from the auction where my dad bought the truck. If only I could have gotten to the truck when it was still in the shape it was in in the photo, before it sat for almost two years...


And then he had a couple of printouts from this forum...apparently he was a member. I had completely forgotten. I remember him talking about how he got most of his info from the forums, but I never put two and two together to think he might have used this one.

[nick8788]

wow thats really cool..Nothing like some fond memories to keep the dream of this build alive

[88redblaze]

Awesome! Def try to get some dog dishes to put back on it

Sent from my SGH-T959 using AutoGuide.Com Free

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by 88redblaze

Awesome! Def try to get some dog dishes to put back on it

Sent from my SGH-T959 using AutoGuide.Com Free

My dad took the dog dishes and put them on his '86 Caprice. It made it look like an old cop car. I wish I had a pic of it. Then he put the plastic wheel covers from my old 2000 Dodge Stratus on the S10.

My brother and I made fun of him for it, but he liked them. I have aluminum wheels on the truck now though, so I don't think I'll be getting another set of dog dishes. I still have all four of the steel wheels in the bed of the truck. Does anyone know the best way to get rid of them? Nobody will take them with the tires still mounted.

[stevbrei]

Finally got Colorado plates for it. Cost me $84 on top of the $25 for the e-test and $20 for the VIN verification.

[stevbrei]

Got rid of the NoDak plates. My favorite mod so far.

[stevbrei]

I was hoping to install the steering box and rag joint mod today, but this is the third weekend in a row that's been cold, cloudy, and rainy. So, I took apart the "new" instrument panel and painted the face black. I think it looks much better.

[Sonomanclature]

The weather has been dicked lately, was soo nice not too long ago.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

The weather has been dicked lately, was soo nice not too long ago.

Tomorrow's supposed to be pretty decent. If I can find the right attachment for my Dremel to cut off the old rag joint, I might tackle it tomorrow.

[stevbrei]

I replaced the plugs and wires today. I would have thought that this would have been at least the second or third time the plugs had been replaced, but I'm thinking that these were the original, factory plugs...from 1988.

I've only driven it around the block, but it runs more smoothly, sounds better, and has more power when I let off of the clutch, but not much more overall. I'm hoping that this was the reason for the fuel not being burned completely, leading to the high hydrocarbon reading in the emissions test.

[85Monster]

Factory Tach.? Not fair..haha

[Hoosier Rick]

The white paint on the end confirms original plugs.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by 85Monster

Factory Tach.? Not fair..haha

Nope. Not yet. That's an instrument panel I bought on eBay. I haven't installed it yet. Right now, I still have the basic instrument panel with a speedometer and fuel gauge, and lights for everything else. I'm still working on finding the sending units for the oil pressure and temperature gauges, and finding time to run the wires for the tach.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hoosier Rick

The white paint on the end confirms original plugs.

Thanks, Rick. I didn't realize that.
From what I can tell, the electrodes look good, considering they've been in the truck since the Reagan Administration.

[Hoosier Rick]

My jimmy had the originals @ 229,000 miles. They also used light blue or pink paint on some. I don't think they even make that plug anymore.

[s10kid17]

Looking great man. The gauges look awesome in black too. Question, how did you replace the spring in the door handle? Do you have any pics? Mine rattles like a mofo.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by s10kid17

Looking great man. The gauges look awesome in black too. Question, how did you replace the spring in the door handle? Do you have any pics? Mine rattles like a mofo.

Thanks, man.
I just replaced the door handle. There's a wire spring inside the handle that works kind of like a torsion bar. It has a hook-shaped bend on each side. It had come off on the one side and allowed the handle to wobble around. However, the rattling in my driver's door is apparently a two-part problem, because it hasn't gone away after all. It sounds like the rods going from the handle to the lock mechanism are also rattling. When I put pressure on the door panel, it seems to go away. So, I'm trying to figure out what to do to fix that problem. I'm thinking of just sticking some foam insulation on the other side of the door panel to keep the rods from moving around and vibrating. I'll post pics of that when I finally get around to it.

[stevbrei]

Well, I thought I had a solution to the center cap issue. Reproduction center caps for late 70's Corvettes are fairly reasonably priced on eBay, so I bought one for $6 to see if they'd fit. It turns out the clips are just about two millimeters too wide. When I finally did get it to go on, I broke half of the clips. Good thing I didn't buy a whole set. I'm going to have to stop being cheap about it and just shell out the money for the correct ones.

[bmxzach]

if plugs are original, chances are cap/rotor/wires are also. May as well do those while you're at it! I hope you put Delco plugs back in, too.

[stevbrei]

You know me too well already, Zach.
Yep, I did put ACDelco plugs in it, and I replaced the wires at the same time. I'm planning on replacing the cap and rotor soon also. That was my next step toward remedying the incomplete fuel burn problem. I've never worked on a vehicle with a distributor before, so this will be interesting.

[bmxzach]

it's quite simple actually, just don't loosen the distributor itself, (hold-down bolt on the intake) only unbolt the cap from the dist itself, that way it doesn't change timing.

Truck's looking great man, he'd be proud of you...

[stevbrei]

I'm going to have to replace the rear brakes and change the fluid soon.

[stevbrei]

My buddy and I tried to replace the rag joint today, but couldn't get the intermediate shaft to compress. I'm thinking what I'll have to do is wait until I have time to replace the steering box also. Then once the steering box is out, pull the intermediate shaft completely out at the tulip joint and figure out what's causing it to not compress.

I got a grinding attachment for my Dremel tool. Sometime this weekend, I'll start working on grinding away at rust spots (which are more difficult to find now that it's been "painted." I still need to get some etching primer to go over the bare metal areas.

I'm hoping to have the body work finished by the end of the summer. THIS is the color I'm going to paint it when the time comes:
Toyota Speedway Blue

[nick8788]

that would be cool

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

My buddy and I tried to replace the rag joint today, but couldn't get the intermediate shaft to compress. I'm thinking what I'll have to do is wait until I have time to replace the steering box also. Then once the steering box is out, pull the intermediate shaft completely out at the tulip joint and figure out what's causing it to not compress.

I got a grinding attachment for my Dremel tool. Sometime this weekend, I'll start working on grinding away at rust spots (which are more difficult to find now that it's been "painted." I still need to get some etching primer to go over the bare metal areas.

I'm hoping to have the body work finished by the end of the summer. THIS is the color I'm going to paint it when the time comes:
Toyota Speedway Blue

If your shaft is dicked, or you just don't feel like messing with it any more, there are quite a few first gens at the Upull in Aurora ( was there today), or you could grab a Jeep shaft and eliminate the tulip and rag joint, there were a quite a few there also.

[stevbrei]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sonomanclature

If your shaft is dicked, or you just don't feel like messing with it any more, there are quite a few first gens at the Upull in Aurora ( was there today), or you could grab a Jeep shaft and eliminate the tulip and rag joint, there were a quite a few there also.

If you're ever going to be at the UPull on a weekend and need help with anything, let me know. I love heading out there. I usually go to the one on the north end of town, but I live closer to the one in Aurora, so I can always meet you out there or something. I'm hoping I wont need to replace the steering shaft, but that's the first place I'll head to if it turns out I need to. I should actually run out there on Monday to see if I can find a steering column. The one off of 70th and Broadway didn't have any floor shift columns that weren't damaged.

[stevbrei]

Finally found a place that has self etching primer, so I started at grinding away the rust so it doesn't come back. I only had time to work on a small area, but it worked pretty well. I'm not looking forward to having to sand all of the runs in the paint.

[stevbrei]

And more grinding and priming. There's so much more rust there than I thought. The longer I think of it, the more I think I'm just going to leave it satin black instead of doing a real paint job. Maybe I'll start considering doing a real paint job when I have a house and a garage, and I can take the time to grind the entire thing down to bare metal.

[Sonomanclature]

Quote: Originally Posted by stevbrei

If you're ever going to be at the UPull on a weekend and need help with anything, let me know. I love heading out there. I usually go to the one on the north end of town, but I live closer to the one in Aurora, so I can always meet you out there or something. I'm hoping I wont need to replace the steering shaft, but that's the first place I'll head to if it turns out I need to. I should actually run out there on Monday to see if I can find a steering column. The one off of 70th and Broadway didn't have any floor shift columns that weren't damaged.

Right on, I have only been to the one on 66th, and the one in Aurora. never bothered to look for other ones lol. The Aurora one is closer to me, like it better than the Denver one.

[bmxzach]

I would leave it black for now and wait until the rust comes through again, then just pick up a good dual action air grinder and sand down the whole thing smooth. It's not going to rot out if you keep ontop of it

[stevbrei]

It's going to stay black for quite a while. I'm starting to like it a lot. Every so often, I'll go out and search for rust spots, grind them down, and prime/paint them. I have no idea when I'll have a place to give it a real paint job. I'm just trying to keep any rust spots from eating all the way through underneath the paint like the right side cab corner did.

[stevbrei]

Project this weekend: find the right temperature sending unit so the temperature gauge on the new instrument panel will work.
Then, take the truck to the top of Mt. Evans. Anyone want to come along?

[bmxzach]

sure, come get me