Project--->LT1 swap and alittle more goodies!

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

maybe..we'll see when saturday gets a little closer.

well i hope you can cuz if u do come down and help out, and we get some stuff done, you can have the console free of charge...thats as long as we get some work done, lol. But i figure if we can get the motor in saturday and get the new rear in, than we can get the d/s taken to get shortened and that would give time for all the radiator stuff. This doesnt sound like its going to be done for lowrollers, but maybe Xmas,

[williambriggs]

when u workign on it? friday saturday sunday?....i MIGHT not have work friday so i COULD come up for those 3 days and get shit done..tools u need me to bring?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

when u workign on it? friday saturday sunday?....i MIGHT not have work friday so i COULD come up for those 3 days and get shit done..tools u need me to bring?

i work on friday so if he does, he will be the one only working, saturday i will be there, and sunday he doesnt work at all since its his only off day. But i might beable to get him to allow me to come down and work on it with you, just i woulnt be able to be ther til 2'ish cuz i work on sundays. Besides the rear, wat you think we can do? Could you do some mods to the radiator support so we can get the radiator bolted in there? If we can get the radiator support mod'd and mounted and get the rear in, than I think we should be in good shape. If we can get to the position of trying to turn the motor over by wed or thurs. night...i think we may have a opportuninty to take it to lowrollers. But in order to do this, i need the rear in, the coresupport mounted, wirring harness plugged in , and d/s being shortened by monday.

Btw, i just got back from the ceramic coating place and they dont do the sliver ceramic coating anymore, but they do a cool looking gun metal color like the 99-03 mustangs are colored. My question is would it look good under the hood with all black engine bay, gunmetal headers and a red intake?

[ls1s10onair]

as long as ur headers arent pink, itll look fine lol...... and remember, gunmetal > rust

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by lt1s10onair

as long as ur headers arent pink, itll look fine lol...... and remember, gunmetal > rust

haha ya ur right, i jst can tell if its going to look good or not.

[williambriggs]

doesnt the radiator just get moved forward? did u get the radiator brackets from V8S10.org or where ever u get ur swap parts? i dont see why we cant get it done, mount the rear, mod the coresupport and do the wiring.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

doesnt the radiator just get moved forward? did u get the radiator brackets from V8S10.org or where ever u get ur swap parts? i dont see why we cant get it done, mount the rear, mod the coresupport and do the wiring.

ya igot the forward radiator mounting bracket, and the radiator that can be pushed forward. But the thing is that the condneser needs to be moved forward a bit too...But if we do get the rear/radiator support all together, than what about the PS lines and fuel lines?

If you think we can get the rear in saturday, and the radiator support done, than ithink, and i stress i think, we can get this thing ready to turn over by thursday

[williambriggs]

what all needs done with the fuel lines and PS?? for the fuel arent u just adapting to ur stock lines? or are u running all new lines?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

what all needs done with the fuel lines and PS?? for the fuel arent u just adapting to ur stock lines? or are u running all new lines?

ya we are gpoing to use my stock ones but i dunno what the hell to do for the PS.

[williambriggs]

what needs done to that?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

what needs done to that?

well the stock PS on my v6 was on the driver side, and this new one is on the passenger side...so i need them to be extended, but i dont know wat i need to use for it. I think i am goin to take my vaca next week so i can concentrate on it all week.

[williambriggs]

u have any pics of the PS lines??

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

u have any pics of the PS lines??

i duno what they look like, look at a couple of the pics i have of the full motor/tranny. I am not sure what they look like.

[williambriggs]

that line right on the front of the motor that ziptied with the 90deg elbow on it...is that it? or is that an AC line?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

that line right on the front of the motor that ziptied with the 90deg elbow on it...is that it? or is that an AC line?

im not sure, but i believe that they are hardlines.

[llorracs93s10]

what are these two hardlines?


regardless, i knw i need to extend them. Is it easy or wat ? And would jegs/summit sell universal that you can bend?

[williambriggs]

we'll figure it out..u can take the one off the motor and the stock one off the pump, measure port to port and figure if it needs like 90s on the end or whatever and then take both hoses to napa or somewhere that does hydraulic lines and have one made. thats what we do with the hydraulic lines at work...im sure someone will chime in if theres a difference..

[The Griff]

i'd need to see where the rubber part goes to before i pass judgement

[williambriggs]

u can see where the rubber goes on the pic i posted on the right hand bottom of the engine...

[Fate0N3]

The two hard lines are the stock oil cooler lines. They are not a necessary thing to keep. You can remove the whole stock adapter and replace it with a standard 350 Oil Filter Adapter which will get rid of the oil cooler lines.

[williambriggs]

i think i was right about that line ziptied on the front of the motor...i just looked at ur other thread about the PS lines and that guy has that line hooked to his steering box in those pics...so you would have to extend that line over

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

i think i was right about that line ziptied on the front of the motor...i just looked at ur other thread about the PS lines and that guy has that line hooked to his steering box in those pics...so you would have to extend that line over

im slow here, but to extend them you said i would have to go to napa and get them to make longer ones?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by Fate0N3

The two hard lines are the stock oil cooler lines. They are not a necessary thing to keep. You can remove the whole stock adapter and replace it with a standard 350 Oil Filter Adapter which will get rid of the oil cooler lines.

i dunno man after i cleaned the motor off, they came up soo clean, i think i just want to keep them cuz of how they became soo clean,

[williambriggs]

yea i think the middletown napa has a machine shop that can make lines..call them tomorrow. i know the ones down by me do.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

yea i think the middletown napa has a machine shop that can make lines..call them tomorrow. i know the ones down by me do.

so i would tell them that i have a lt1 in my s10, it has the PS on the opposite side, so i need a line to strech across from dirver side to passenger side?

[williambriggs]

no u can just ask them if they can make custom length power steering lines...and if they are open on saturday lol..u start telling them u have lt1 in an s10 and other shit..they will be lost.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

no u can just ask them if they can make custom length power steering lines...and if they are open on saturday lol..u start telling them u have lt1 in an s10 and other shit..they will be lost.

o ok, i would need two though right? And also, if hot dog doesnt mind, would you mind stayin past 5 if he doesnt need to leave his house for like another hour or so after 5? I would really like to get as much done on saturday as possilbe so we are good for the new week.

[williambriggs]

what time u start? i mean it isnt really that much work...

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

what time u start? i mean it isnt really that much work...

12ish...more like 12:30. Ok so what do you believe we can do from 1-5pm on saturday? I wann know what you thin kwe can get done by than.

[williambriggs]

i dont know..we could possibly get it all done on saturday...but the time schedule is a pain...while we put the rear end in will this dude be mounting the motor for finial install?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

i dont know..we could possibly get it all done on saturday...but the time schedule is a pain...while we put the rear end in will this dude be mounting the motor for finial install?

well besides me helping dropping it into place to make sure we dont F up the new paint, than ya. I will let him go to town on the motor while we do the rear. Than after the rear and he is done wiring hte motor up, we can get the radiator support cut up and all. But we cant get the core support mounted because it still would need paint, and i would be waiting for the headers to get done from ceramic coating, so i cant mount the wheel wells or the radiator support til i get them back.

[williambriggs]

well ill have to get some tools and shit packed up to bring up there...i can probaby do the rear by myself ill snatch a roller that we use at work to move rears around..

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

well ill have to get some tools and shit packed up to bring up there...i can probaby do the rear by myself ill snatch a roller that we use at work to move rears around..

sounds good. So to recap, lol....waht do you think we can get done as a whole on saturday? And possible on sunday for me and you? I just want to keep a check list so we can see if we can do wat you say.

[williambriggs]

everything lol if u get the headers back in time...

make a list of what YOU want done...its ur truck lmao

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

everything lol if u get the headers back in time...

make a list of what YOU want done...its ur truck lmao

well the headers wont be done til sometime next week. SO as long as the rear is in, the ps line is made, the radiator support is cut to specs, and is ready to be bolted up....and the d/s measurments are done so i can get it shortened, than that would be a good day.

[williambriggs]

does he have WiFi in the garage/house?

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

does he have WiFi in the garage/house?

if you mean wife, than no not necesarrly (sp)....she does mail runs so shes gone til at least 3pm or so. Why you ask?

[williambriggs]

lmfao...u freak...WiFi as in like wireless internet like me bring my laptop incase we need it for anything.....

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by williambriggs

lmfao...u freak...WiFi as in like wireless internet like me bring my laptop incase we need it for anything.....

....wow! yes hes got internet in hte house, highspeed too. I got him to be logged into my v8s10.org account when ever he needs to look stuff up.

[llorracs93s10]

well went over today only for about ahour or so, but got some good news and some eh news....good news is the headers look good with the bungs welded to the headers, bad news is the clear didnt go on when i was there...but heres a pic or two of it dried...firewall came out great





Tomorrow, Hotdog says he will have the headers completely done and ready for ceramic coating, and will try to get the MSD plug wires wired up before he takes the headers off. Than He is going to start on the PS pump on thursday, and from there....wishful thinking for me if we want lowrollers to come and to have my truck there....

O and one more thing, test fit my d/s on the rear yoke, and the u joint fit likke aglove.....so hope that is a good sign for the rear swap!

[HectorM52]

Nice.

Just so you guys know the 8.5" rear end is NOT the same as the 7 5/8" rear ends. You would need to shorten the driveshaft if you ONLY did a swap of those two rears going to the 8.5" one.

I had a ton of comments as I went through the thread but I forgot them all now. I think most of them pertained to you saying you had to "beat" the firewall. My god, don't do that!!! Anyway, looks like you didn't so it's all good.

I'll look back through tomorrow and let you know.

A good idea would be to get the truck towed to the exhaust shop then to the PS line shop. That way you can get the line of the EXACT length you need rather than saying "oh I need 47 feet of hose" then getting home and it's too long/short. It's worth the cost of the tow jobs to get the stuff done right the first time.

And I know that you keep making these deadlines - oh, July 1, July 15, August 2, September 56, December of 2009...

QUIT DOING THAT!!! When you rush you do things half-ass. Ask me how I know!!! Like painting the firewall without removing everything?? Why not take that extra hour and remove everything? Fenders, A/C box, even the brake booster, brake lines, etc.. etc... etc... And why not smooth out some of those bolt holes??? Too late now. You'll just have to "enjoy" that overspray for years to come.


Okay, okay, I'll quit now. I'm probably upsetting some folks. But I speak from experience. I started my "project" in 2001 and I'm still rolling with it. Each year I end up re-doing something that I half-assed years ago. If I had someone to smack me in the face and wake me up 7 years ago, I could have focused on doing things right the FIRST time and not WRONG then fixing them two or three times later.

Overall, looks like this "Chili Dog" guy is doing an above-average job. I'm thinking I might need to whore myself out and do a swap on someone else's truck at my house. I've definitely got the experience!!!

PM me if you still have questions. I'll try to get on here tomorrow and make some more "suggestions."

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Adam

[ls1s10onair]

you dont have to shorten the d/s if its ext. cab.... or at least i didnt

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by lt1s10onair

you dont have to shorten the d/s if its ext. cab.... or at least i didnt

Well, technically, you're right. BUT... Essentially what you've done is taken out the "play" in the drivetrain.

When you measure for a driveshaft, what you do is measure the "center of the yoke" to the "center of the yoke." Look at the rear end with a driveshaft bolted up and you'll see the little "cap" and at that cap's center is the center of the yoke that I'm referring to. Then you measure to the center of the slip-yoke within the transmission. But there's a trick to the transmission side...

Essentially, if you think about it, you take that slip yoke, you shove it ALL THE WAY into the transmission. Then you pull it back out an inch or so. Let's say an inch and a half at most. The slip yoke is 4-5 inches deep so you still have PLENTY of "bite" between the yoke and the output shaft.

So when the engineer designed that driveshaft for the 7.5" tranny, he shoved the yoke in all the way then pulled it back out 1.5" (or so). Now you've got a rear end that sticks 1.5" (or so) farther forward. So where's the play? It's gone.

Why is this even necessary?? Well, when your rear suspension bounces around it sort of expands and contracts both left and right, up and down. But it also goes front to back just a hair or two. So if it shoves forward due to some extreme situation it will just shove your output shaft through your tranny.

Okay, extreme situation, yes. But again, this is the difference between doing it right and doing it mostly right.

Will your setup work? Sounds like it does.

I'll try to find a pic from SSF that shows the two rear ends stacked next to each other and you'll see the difference in height I'm talking about.

Anyway, now back to our regularly scheduled thread.

[The Griff]

are your headers bare metal? do you plan on painting them or what are you doing to finish them?

[HectorM52]

Quote: Originally Posted by lt1s10onair

you dont have to shorten the d/s if its ext. cab.... or at least i didnt

Oh, and now that I think about it since you mentioned the x-cab, you probably have TWICE the play in your original system because of the joint at the crossmember.

That certainly helped to make yours work vs. someone with a regular cab.

[ls1s10onair]

yea, i get all that.... i do this stuff everyday.... i had my d/s shortened for the t56 already... between that, and my particular link setup, i have enough play to work with

[williambriggs]

chili dog

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by HectorM52

Nice.

Just so you guys know the 8.5" rear end is NOT the same as the 7 5/8" rear ends. You would need to shorten the driveshaft if you ONLY did a swap of those two rears going to the 8.5" one.

I had a ton of comments as I went through the thread but I forgot them all now. I think most of them pertained to you saying you had to "beat" the firewall. My god, don't do that!!! Anyway, looks like you didn't so it's all good.

I'll look back through tomorrow and let you know.

A good idea would be to get the truck towed to the exhaust shop then to the PS line shop. That way you can get the line of the EXACT length you need rather than saying "oh I need 47 feet of hose" then getting home and it's too long/short. It's worth the cost of the tow jobs to get the stuff done right the first time.

And I know that you keep making these deadlines - oh, July 1, July 15, August 2, September 56, December of 2009...

QUIT DOING THAT!!! When you rush you do things half-ass. Ask me how I know!!! Like painting the firewall without removing everything?? Why not take that extra hour and remove everything? Fenders, A/C box, even the brake booster, brake lines, etc.. etc... etc... And why not smooth out some of those bolt holes??? Too late now. You'll just have to "enjoy" that overspray for years to come.


Okay, okay, I'll quit now. I'm probably upsetting some folks. But I speak from experience. I started my "project" in 2001 and I'm still rolling with it. Each year I end up re-doing something that I half-assed years ago. If I had someone to smack me in the face and wake me up 7 years ago, I could have focused on doing things right the FIRST time and not WRONG then fixing them two or three times later.

Overall, looks like this "Chili Dog" guy is doing an above-average job. I'm thinking I might need to whore myself out and do a swap on someone else's truck at my house. I've definitely got the experience!!!

PM me if you still have questions. I'll try to get on here tomorrow and make some more "suggestions."

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Adam

well the first couple of ''deadlines'' were unrealistic in hind sight now that i think about it. But this one i think is still do'able....and nothing on this project has been or is anywhere near hacked, cut corner'd....ect....i am very happy with how Hotdog approaches thse things. Just wish he would work faster, lol

and about the ''overspray''....i guess you are refearing to the ac box? If so, the only overspray that i could see was on the very bottom, where the wheel well tubs go, so you wont even see that little spot. I think for wat we did, we did a very good job. Yes i could have done more to prep the firewall, or make it look better, but like everyone else does, they have to stop them selves at some point. Yes i wanted the a/c box taken off, but in order to ghet the motor in the bay and maybe possilbe ready for next week, i had to make the decision to not take it out.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by jakethegriff

are your headers bare metal? do you plan on painting them or what are you doing to finish them?

yea in the pics they are bare metal, just getting all the stuff mockd up before iget them ceramic coated. I am getting htem ceramic coated gun metal silver...or something like the 02 mustangs dark gray color looks like. I will try to find a pic....



something like this....

[llorracs93s10]

got a problem and i hope someone can answer me....the powersteering pump that i got for this swap from summit doesnt fit correctly. A guy on the v8s10.org site said to get this pump, it would be a direct fit,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZOOPS...3286.m20.l1116
well apparently it doesnt. I mean i could be doing something wrong, probably the case, lol....but i dont know wats happening. First the bolts on the stock pump go through the PS pump and screw into the block, this new one doesnt, it has groves like the bolt screws in it. And the male/female ends are flipped and the one that is near the Alternator hits the alternator. I have no idea wat the hell to do.