[ProjecT] LoW RangE

phillip7 · 05-26-2008, 08:09 PM

All you need to do is just raise the bed to the top of the notch plus the amount of the future body drop that way when you do get around to doing the cab the bed will already be done.

83LOWrange · 05-26-2008, 10:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phillip7

All you need to do is just raise the bed to the top of the notch plus the amount of the future body drop that way when you do get around to doing the cab the bed will already be done.

yes i know that, but if this way right here will work i wont have to do anything to the bed other than put in a notch cover... look cuttin out this bottom section, it is the only part of the frame that hangs below the body...

Quote: Originally Posted by 83LOWrange

ok this would be a good time to ask about the body drop...

BEFORE YOU READ AND THINK ABOUT IT, im asking, just an idea, me and friends dont see why it wont work

look at this picture

the frame is 6" tall under the cab, this is the only part of the frame that you can see laying down looking perpendicular to the truck, it hangs below the body right here 2.75"... which is how much id need to lay rocker

now if i was to weld 3x3 in the top of the frame here, and cut that bottom peice off, the radius are relocators these.

would still work, if worse comes to worse i could bend and reinforce the tabs on the radius arms to compensate for the extra FEW degrees of an angle they would be at, they will be moved to the outside of the frame already...

the only thing that hangs lower than that peice is the exhaust...

but i would like ya'lls input on this. ive asked some (NO PICTURES) on RPS and no one will give me a straight answer...

plz help more pics to help..

ok the "idea" it would be like an old fullsize bd...

if it would lay 3/4 - 1/2" at least to rocker thats good enough

so im trying to see if there is a reason why this wouldnt work? ANY IDEAS???

thingsthatfly2 · 05-26-2008, 11:12 PM

cut now.. think later..... lol just kidding... hmmm stock floor it!!

83LOWrange · 05-27-2008, 03:15 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by thingsthatfly2

cut now.. think later..... lol just kidding... hmmm stock floor it!!

hahaha yea yea, i thought about it... honestly, doing a stock floor (FOR JUST THE CAB)
1. lay your tube inside the bottom of the frame
2. cut the top of the frame off
3. finish welding the tube to the frame completely
4. lower the body mounts 2.75" (i think thats all i need)
5. cut the floor for the tranny and driveshaft, and maybe a part of the frame...

i know ill probably run into one or two small issues, but honestly is it hard? im not saying its easy by a long shot, but to do the cab would it be too hard you think???

83LOWrange · 05-29-2008, 12:34 PM

what has to be done on s10s when you stock floor the cab? now i dont want to know evey detail, and dont just say ALOT!

like the pedals? i know the tranny tunnel, some of my floor since its a ranger, i kno driveshaft, but steering?

TrYiN2LaYaDiMe · 05-29-2008, 04:56 PM

shit is looking good man. now hop to it and get it done and bring it to the all star event in august.

InfamousMini · 05-29-2008, 05:22 PM

I would bodydrop the bed even if you don't bodydrop the cab, just so it'll look nice and stock when you look into it.

83LOWrange · 05-30-2008, 01:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by TrYiN2LaYaDiMe

shit is looking good man. now hop to it and get it done and bring it to the all star event in august.

haha well i will, i hope by then i will have the cab stockfloored... but i was hoping you would find my thread soon enough, think if i took the cab off and left everything else in think you could help me weld the 3x3 in? i can do it i just dont have a mig machine right now, and thats alot of trouble to stick it all, lol

but how long do you think it would take to do just the cab? i know cutting and raising the floor isnt too bad, but do you think there would be any other big issues? i know you dont know rangers real well, but your BDing yours... JW

83LOWrange · 05-30-2008, 01:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by InfamousMini

I would bodydrop the bed even if you don't bodydrop the cab, just so it'll look nice and stock when you look into it.

yea, im thinking about raising the bed floor to the top of the notch, but see i want to keep the stock paint as well! this is the problem

i guess i could cut along this black line, and raise it up flush with that top red line

tack weld it to that lip and have a bedliner sprayed in... i know i can get a 4x10 sheet of 18ga. for $50 from work...

how long do you think this would take? and what would you cut it with??? itd have to be damn near perfect!!!

noob question: how the hell would i bolt it down? lol

83LOWrange · 05-30-2008, 01:07 PM

ok well i took pics of the tag in the door, its dated march 1982

i have to pocket for the rear bags, lol wont be bad

and now that i want to raise the bed floor instead of cutting it no one will see this

no big deal

jman · 05-31-2008, 12:53 AM

nice progress man, i really like this bodystyle ranger. you might check out this thread, don't know if it will help you out or not but i know lowdime stockfloored his s10 in a similar manner (except he cut the top off and not the bottom). don't know the difference with rangers but i'm sure it might screw with the bodymounts

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f143/p...on-22s-278019/

83LOWrange · 05-31-2008, 10:45 AM

yea thanks for that link man

im going to use his thread as a guide really, i seen it a while back and i thought to myself that looks almost impossible to do in my carport! but now that i have it torn down (even tho im just bagging it now) i know i can do it... but itll have to wait till after pandemonium. so about july 14ish ill take the cab off and start the stock floor

but as of right now im trying to figure out how much i need to raise the bed floor, im not body dropping the bed yet, but i dont want to cut the floor, so ill just raise it however far i need to and add the 2.75" that will come with the body drop later... im stumped on how far, so im thinkin

paul · 05-31-2008, 07:57 PM

Nice stuff!

83LOWrange · 06-02-2008, 10:54 AM

thanks man...

well right now i am redoing the bridge bar and the upper bars... for more triangulation and the bridge bar would have bottomed out on it, so it has to be angled, after that i have to pocket the rear of the frame for the bags

***98layinframe*** · 06-02-2008, 02:23 PM

lookin good! glad your redoing the upper bars. and as for the bed, could either measure things out going off the bodymounts on the frame... or you could simply sit the bed back on the frame so that its resting on top of te notches. Then measure how far away the frame mounts are from the bottom of the bed. Just gueing by the pics, im gona say you will need to raise the floor about 5" - 6" just to clear the notces then another 3" on top of that for the bodydrop.

FCKNLOW · 06-02-2008, 09:58 PM

lookin go so far man! how doesnt your driveshaft hit that crossmember though?

83LOWrange · 06-03-2008, 02:26 AM

which crossmember? im waiting till this weekend so i can redo the driveshaft hoop/crossmember for the uppers, cause im swapping the angles

i will also be making my own lower mounts for the front of my lower bars on the frame, i running such a narrow wheel and tire (6" no more than a 17" wheel) that i can move the lowers out more, this way i wont have to notch for the bags, but i will still have to notch the front

my beams wont be here till thursday! so thats why it hasnt been started yet

Edit: my bad, i cant believe i dont have a picture of the notch for the driveshaft, its huge and ugly, but its getting cut off, here ya go man, my bad

i welded a piece from each of those angled ones, and cut for the drivshaft... but it doesnt use near that much, so my new one will be shorter and cleaner

dawgnutz · 06-06-2008, 05:33 PM

Looks sic man! I dig the long bed all stock but laying thing! How's the rear coming along?

83LOWrange · 06-07-2008, 12:24 AM

well im at a stand still because i REALLY really really... (REALLY) want to use my stock tank, because i want the gauge to work, id have to extend the lines for my cell in the bed which means itd take longer to prime and start, PLUS i really want to use the stock filler neck, so im looking to see if i can at all move it up as far as i can and make it work... (plus i only have a stick welder)

but i just bought a solid back glass for it (no tint) and i ordered my beams 3 weeks ago, i knew i shouldnt of ordered from godfather, but they were cheapest... now im just waiting

THIS BLOWS

dragginbalz · 06-07-2008, 09:15 AM

The problem I see cutting the bottom of the frame off, especially on an I beamed truck, it that you will have to then modify the suspension to drop the amount that you just cut off. What diameter tires do you plan on running? Can you modify the beams to get you down the extra 3" (Probably not unless you are running a small diameter tire). You will successfully make the body even with the lowest part of the frame, but you still need to get the frame/body on the ground! You can "z" the frame 3" so that you don't have to mess with the beams, frame, oil pan, pitman arm, etc BUT then what did you do? Yup you raised the motor up 3" (there isn't room to drop the motor back down) Now since you didn't lower the cab on the frame, that means the engine only moved up the 3"(same as it would on a "body drop") You also have to keep in mind your rear suspension. Since you cannot lower the bed location (since then obviously the body lines will not match up) you will have to make sure that the truck lays rocker (probably 3" lower than it does now) at all four corners.
I say do it! Trim the bottom piece, reinforce it, "z" the frame up front 3", lower your frame horns, rework the rear suspension, modify the steering, modify bed floor and call it a day. The first body dropped 93-96 ranger that Minitruckin' ever featured (it was a blue/tealish ext cab with a weird cowl) I believe that is how they got the rocker on the ground.

83LOWrange · 06-07-2008, 09:55 AM

hmmm...

now that make sense, i have the 3" drop beams coming soon and i plan on keeping the stock wheels for a while, if/when i buy different ones they will be no bigger than 16"s max tires diameter about 24"...

its either find out exactly how to do the bd this way or 3x3 the frame under the cab, lower the mounts 2" and Z it 1", then it will equal a 3" bd... thats how the guys on RPS say to do it, they said dot trim the bottom off because itd be more work reworking the entire suspension. but idk yet, its all up in the air

dragginbalz · 06-07-2008, 10:20 AM

I just noticed you are in LA. Do you know LA Dave? He is kinda a ranger guru. If you are not far from him, you may want to contact him with specific questions. He is super nice and knowledgeable.

t

83LOWrange · 06-07-2008, 05:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dragginbalz

I just noticed you are in LA. Do you know LA Dave? He is kinda a ranger guru. If you are not far from him, you may want to contact him with specific questions. He is super nice and knowledgeable.

t

actually i kind of do... i havent thought about that, i havent talked to him in a while... i used to talk to him on latruckscene.net

but i havent seen him in a while

i need to though, great idea

dragginbalz · 06-07-2008, 06:01 PM

Just tell him Tony From Illinois says hi. Ask him to see my goat picture (I am sure he still has it)

haha

t

dimeon15s · 06-07-2008, 11:17 PM

I think i want a ranger now.

83LOWrange · 06-08-2008, 04:27 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by dimeon15s

I think i want a ranger now.

haha i would say that yet, wait and see what it looks like when its done hopefully... im trying to decide on trad. or sfbd the cab? im going to raise the bed floor either way (the BD will be in a month or two)

now i have to buy a welder sonce the machine we were using wasnt mine... hobart 140 or 187? im not looking to spend tooo much, i mean i wont be welding much 1/4" and if i do, ill just make 2 passes instead of 1, no big deal for me.

does the 140 do ok for this stuff? i need to know soon so i can get back on this thing ASAP!

dragginbalz · 06-08-2008, 08:19 AM

I just bought my Dad a HH187. It is a nice machine! I am a firm believer of 220V machines for anything structural 3/16" or over. I am sure some will say the 140 is fine, but that is my experience and my opinion.

If you search this or RPS or SSM or any other forum you will find multi-page conversations (Arguments) on the subject (110 vs 220).

In my opinion, multi-pass welds are not really a good solution to a lot of fillet welds (ie welding tabs to an axle). The reason being is that if you run two passes (or three, one on the inside of the tab and two on the out side) your risk the chance of overheating the axle tube and it will probably cause it to rip in the Haz.
I repaired a few bowling ball returns for the exact reason! It was 1/4" plate and one of the plates cracked. So the mechanic at the alley had a 110V welder and decided to put 2 passes on top of the pass that was already there. It looked like he was an ok welder (the beads were smooth and flat). The problem is all the excess heat made the metal in the HAZ very brittle. Now instead of having one or two tabs broken, they are all starting to crack, right above the upper weld on the plate itself!

Just something to think about.

t

dimeon15s · 06-08-2008, 11:39 AM

Did you make your diamond plate fuel cell? If not where did you get and how much? I really like that. Keep up the good work.

83LOWrange · 06-08-2008, 01:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dimeon15s

Did you make your diamond plate fuel cell? If not where did you get and how much? I really like that. Keep up the good work.

i ordered it from atomicmotorsports....

it was originally $240 shipped, but i added baffles so it was $40 extra (its worth it i hear)

so i paid $280 for everything, he made it for me, emailed me pics of the build and mailed it, i recieved it within 5 days

83LOWrange · 06-08-2008, 01:44 PM

dragginbalz: thats true... its just i still need to buy all new chrome trim, dont have to but i think itd give it that extra look... trim rings, hub caps (these only cover the hub), mirrors, handles, bumpers, and grille

ahhh i need a better damn job so i dont have to wait 2 months to do anything, i put in 58 hours this week and wont break $500!!!

05-26-2008, 08:09 PM	#101
phillip7 Plastic Welder Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 578 Location: GA User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE All you need to do is just raise the bed to the top of the notch plus the amount of the future body drop that way when you do get around to doing the cab the bed will already be done.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-26-2008, 10:53 PM	#102
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by phillip7 All you need to do is just raise the bed to the top of the notch plus the amount of the future body drop that way when you do get around to doing the cab the bed will already be done. yes i know that, but if this way right here will work i wont have to do anything to the bed other than put in a notch cover... look cuttin out this bottom section, it is the only part of the frame that hangs below the body... Quote: Originally Posted by 83LOWrange ok this would be a good time to ask about the body drop... BEFORE YOU READ AND THINK ABOUT IT, im asking, just an idea, me and friends dont see why it wont work look at this picture the frame is 6" tall under the cab, this is the only part of the frame that you can see laying down looking perpendicular to the truck, it hangs below the body right here 2.75"... which is how much id need to lay rocker now if i was to weld 3x3 in the top of the frame here, and cut that bottom peice off, the radius are relocators these. would still work, if worse comes to worse i could bend and reinforce the tabs on the radius arms to compensate for the extra FEW degrees of an angle they would be at, they will be moved to the outside of the frame already... the only thing that hangs lower than that peice is the exhaust... but i would like ya'lls input on this. ive asked some (NO PICTURES) on RPS and no one will give me a straight answer... plz help more pics to help.. ok the "idea" it would be like an old fullsize bd... if it would lay 3/4 - 1/2" at least to rocker thats good enough so im trying to see if there is a reason why this wouldnt work? ANY IDEAS???
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-26-2008, 11:12 PM	#103
thingsthatfly2 crouchingS10hiddenVETTE Age: 19 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,812 Location: conway User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE cut now.. think later..... lol just kidding... hmmm stock floor it!!
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05-27-2008, 03:15 AM	#104
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by thingsthatfly2 cut now.. think later..... lol just kidding... hmmm stock floor it!! hahaha yea yea, i thought about it... honestly, doing a stock floor (FOR JUST THE CAB) 1. lay your tube inside the bottom of the frame 2. cut the top of the frame off 3. finish welding the tube to the frame completely 4. lower the body mounts 2.75" (i think thats all i need) 5. cut the floor for the tranny and driveshaft, and maybe a part of the frame... i know ill probably run into one or two small issues, but honestly is it hard? im not saying its easy by a long shot, but to do the cab would it be too hard you think???
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-29-2008, 12:34 PM	#105
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE what has to be done on s10s when you stock floor the cab? now i dont want to know evey detail, and dont just say ALOT! like the pedals? i know the tranny tunnel, some of my floor since its a ranger, i kno driveshaft, but steering?
	[Reply w/Quote]


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05-29-2008, 04:56 PM	#106
TrYiN2LaYaDiMe SFBD 4 door Age: 29 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 5,713 Location: Columbia, Tenakey Location: Tupelo, Ms User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE shit is looking good man. now hop to it and get it done and bring it to the all star event in august.
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05-29-2008, 05:22 PM	#107
InfamousMini Mini Suver Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 1,173 Location: Fresno, CA User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE I would bodydrop the bed even if you don't bodydrop the cab, just so it'll look nice and stock when you look into it.
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05-30-2008, 01:22 AM	#108
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by TrYiN2LaYaDiMe shit is looking good man. now hop to it and get it done and bring it to the all star event in august. haha well i will, i hope by then i will have the cab stockfloored... but i was hoping you would find my thread soon enough, think if i took the cab off and left everything else in think you could help me weld the 3x3 in? i can do it i just dont have a mig machine right now, and thats alot of trouble to stick it all, lol but how long do you think it would take to do just the cab? i know cutting and raising the floor isnt too bad, but do you think there would be any other big issues? i know you dont know rangers real well, but your BDing yours... JW
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-30-2008, 01:33 AM	#109
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by InfamousMini I would bodydrop the bed even if you don't bodydrop the cab, just so it'll look nice and stock when you look into it. yea, im thinking about raising the bed floor to the top of the notch, but see i want to keep the stock paint as well! this is the problem i guess i could cut along this black line, and raise it up flush with that top red line tack weld it to that lip and have a bedliner sprayed in... i know i can get a 4x10 sheet of 18ga. for $50 from work... how long do you think this would take? and what would you cut it with??? itd have to be damn near perfect!!! noob question: how the hell would i bolt it down? lol
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-30-2008, 01:07 PM	#110
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE ok well i took pics of the tag in the door, its dated march 1982 i have to pocket for the rear bags, lol wont be bad and now that i want to raise the bed floor instead of cutting it no one will see this no big deal
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05-31-2008, 12:53 AM	#111
jman Hardcore 1st Gen'r Age: 28 Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 2,764 Location: Austin, IN User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE nice progress man, i really like this bodystyle ranger. you might check out this thread, don't know if it will help you out or not but i know lowdime stockfloored his s10 in a similar manner (except he cut the top off and not the bottom). don't know the difference with rangers but i'm sure it might screw with the bodymounts http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f143/p...on-22s-278019/ Last edited by jman : 05-31-2008 at 12:56 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-31-2008, 10:45 AM	#112
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE yea thanks for that link man im going to use his thread as a guide really, i seen it a while back and i thought to myself that looks almost impossible to do in my carport! but now that i have it torn down (even tho im just bagging it now) i know i can do it... but itll have to wait till after pandemonium. so about july 14ish ill take the cab off and start the stock floor but as of right now im trying to figure out how much i need to raise the bed floor, im not body dropping the bed yet, but i dont want to cut the floor, so ill just raise it however far i need to and add the 2.75" that will come with the body drop later... im stumped on how far, so im thinkin
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05-31-2008, 07:57 PM	#113
paul Time Traveler Age: 28 Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 328 Location: Columbus Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Nice stuff!
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06-02-2008, 10:54 AM	#114
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE thanks man... well right now i am redoing the bridge bar and the upper bars... for more triangulation and the bridge bar would have bottomed out on it, so it has to be angled, after that i have to pocket the rear of the frame for the bags
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06-02-2008, 09:58 PM	#116
FCKNLOW re-bodydroppin Age: 20 Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 8,270 Location: Mechanicsburg, Pa User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE lookin go so far man! how doesnt your driveshaft hit that crossmember though?
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06-03-2008, 02:26 AM	#117
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE which crossmember? im waiting till this weekend so i can redo the driveshaft hoop/crossmember for the uppers, cause im swapping the angles i will also be making my own lower mounts for the front of my lower bars on the frame, i running such a narrow wheel and tire (6" no more than a 17" wheel) that i can move the lowers out more, this way i wont have to notch for the bags, but i will still have to notch the front my beams wont be here till thursday! so thats why it hasnt been started yet Edit: my bad, i cant believe i dont have a picture of the notch for the driveshaft, its huge and ugly, but its getting cut off, here ya go man, my bad i welded a piece from each of those angled ones, and cut for the drivshaft... but it doesnt use near that much, so my new one will be shorter and cleaner Last edited by 83LOWrange : 06-03-2008 at 02:30 AM.
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06-06-2008, 05:33 PM	#118
dawgnutz Undesired Vacation Age: 28 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,572 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Looks sic man! I dig the long bed all stock but laying thing! How's the rear coming along?
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06-07-2008, 12:24 AM	#119
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE well im at a stand still because i REALLY really really... (REALLY) want to use my stock tank, because i want the gauge to work, id have to extend the lines for my cell in the bed which means itd take longer to prime and start, PLUS i really want to use the stock filler neck, so im looking to see if i can at all move it up as far as i can and make it work... (plus i only have a stick welder) but i just bought a solid back glass for it (no tint) and i ordered my beams 3 weeks ago, i knew i shouldnt of ordered from godfather, but they were cheapest... now im just waiting THIS BLOWS
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06-07-2008, 09:15 AM	#120
dragginbalz Quit using "FTW"!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 716 Location: illinois User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE The problem I see cutting the bottom of the frame off, especially on an I beamed truck, it that you will have to then modify the suspension to drop the amount that you just cut off. What diameter tires do you plan on running? Can you modify the beams to get you down the extra 3" (Probably not unless you are running a small diameter tire). You will successfully make the body even with the lowest part of the frame, but you still need to get the frame/body on the ground! You can "z" the frame 3" so that you don't have to mess with the beams, frame, oil pan, pitman arm, etc BUT then what did you do? Yup you raised the motor up 3" (there isn't room to drop the motor back down) Now since you didn't lower the cab on the frame, that means the engine only moved up the 3"(same as it would on a "body drop") You also have to keep in mind your rear suspension. Since you cannot lower the bed location (since then obviously the body lines will not match up) you will have to make sure that the truck lays rocker (probably 3" lower than it does now) at all four corners. I say do it! Trim the bottom piece, reinforce it, "z" the frame up front 3", lower your frame horns, rework the rear suspension, modify the steering, modify bed floor and call it a day. The first body dropped 93-96 ranger that Minitruckin' ever featured (it was a blue/tealish ext cab with a weird cowl) I believe that is how they got the rocker on the ground. Last edited by dragginbalz : 06-07-2008 at 09:20 AM.
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06-07-2008, 09:55 AM	#121
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE hmmm... now that make sense, i have the 3" drop beams coming soon and i plan on keeping the stock wheels for a while, if/when i buy different ones they will be no bigger than 16"s max tires diameter about 24"... its either find out exactly how to do the bd this way or 3x3 the frame under the cab, lower the mounts 2" and Z it 1", then it will equal a 3" bd... thats how the guys on RPS say to do it, they said dot trim the bottom off because itd be more work reworking the entire suspension. but idk yet, its all up in the air
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06-07-2008, 10:20 AM	#122
dragginbalz Quit using "FTW"!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 716 Location: illinois User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE I just noticed you are in LA. Do you know LA Dave? He is kinda a ranger guru. If you are not far from him, you may want to contact him with specific questions. He is super nice and knowledgeable. t
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06-07-2008, 05:49 PM	#123
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by dragginbalz I just noticed you are in LA. Do you know LA Dave? He is kinda a ranger guru. If you are not far from him, you may want to contact him with specific questions. He is super nice and knowledgeable. t actually i kind of do... i havent thought about that, i havent talked to him in a while... i used to talk to him on latruckscene.net but i havent seen him in a while i need to though, great idea
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06-07-2008, 06:01 PM	#124
dragginbalz Quit using "FTW"!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 716 Location: illinois User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Just tell him Tony From Illinois says hi. Ask him to see my goat picture (I am sure he still has it) haha t
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06-07-2008, 11:17 PM	#125
dimeon15s smooth Age: 21 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 432 Location: harrisburg PA 17111 User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE I think i want a ranger now.
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06-08-2008, 04:27 AM	#126
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by dimeon15s I think i want a ranger now. haha i would say that yet, wait and see what it looks like when its done hopefully... im trying to decide on trad. or sfbd the cab? im going to raise the bed floor either way (the BD will be in a month or two) now i have to buy a welder sonce the machine we were using wasnt mine... hobart 140 or 187? im not looking to spend tooo much, i mean i wont be welding much 1/4" and if i do, ill just make 2 passes instead of 1, no big deal for me. does the 140 do ok for this stuff? i need to know soon so i can get back on this thing ASAP!
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06-08-2008, 08:19 AM	#127
dragginbalz Quit using "FTW"!!! Age: 31 Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 716 Location: illinois User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE I just bought my Dad a HH187. It is a nice machine! I am a firm believer of 220V machines for anything structural 3/16" or over. I am sure some will say the 140 is fine, but that is my experience and my opinion. If you search this or RPS or SSM or any other forum you will find multi-page conversations (Arguments) on the subject (110 vs 220). In my opinion, multi-pass welds are not really a good solution to a lot of fillet welds (ie welding tabs to an axle). The reason being is that if you run two passes (or three, one on the inside of the tab and two on the out side) your risk the chance of overheating the axle tube and it will probably cause it to rip in the Haz. I repaired a few bowling ball returns for the exact reason! It was 1/4" plate and one of the plates cracked. So the mechanic at the alley had a 110V welder and decided to put 2 passes on top of the pass that was already there. It looked like he was an ok welder (the beads were smooth and flat). The problem is all the excess heat made the metal in the HAZ very brittle. Now instead of having one or two tabs broken, they are all starting to crack, right above the upper weld on the plate itself! Just something to think about. t
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06-08-2008, 11:39 AM	#128
dimeon15s smooth Age: 21 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 432 Location: harrisburg PA 17111 User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Did you make your diamond plate fuel cell? If not where did you get and how much? I really like that. Keep up the good work.
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06-08-2008, 01:40 PM	#129
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE Quote: Originally Posted by dimeon15s Did you make your diamond plate fuel cell? If not where did you get and how much? I really like that. Keep up the good work. i ordered it from atomicmotorsports.... it was originally $240 shipped, but i added baffles so it was $40 extra (its worth it i hear) so i paid $280 for everything, he made it for me, emailed me pics of the build and mailed it, i recieved it within 5 days
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06-08-2008, 01:44 PM	#130
83LOWrange That lil ole Ranger Age: 21 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 496 Location: Louisiana User is: OffLine	Re: [ProjecT] LoW RangE dragginbalz: thats true... its just i still need to buy all new chrome trim, dont have to but i think itd give it that extra look... trim rings, hub caps (these only cover the hub), mirrors, handles, bumpers, and grille ahhh i need a better damn job so i dont have to wait 2 months to do anything, i put in 58 hours this week and wont break $500!!!
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