[Project] Living up to my username

[zaathur151]

yea thats the only bad thing about it the crossmember will sick a hair above the bed as you can see i had to trim around it

[xtucking22s]

^ ya I dont want to have to cut out more of the bed then I allready have to

[xtucking22s]

got the evap/charcoal canister relocated. Had to extend one of the fuel lines(well its really only vapor, but its a fuel line tube still), and I had to extend the simple 2 wire connector on it to reach the new location for the extra little box thing(wtf is that anyways?) thats connected to the evap canister. I used 2 self tapping screws and screwed the factory bracket into the frame and it made for a nice sturdy mount(when i put that thing in after i paint the frame i wanna get some washers for that. And that extra little box thing i just bolted to the passenger side bed mount, on one of the bolt holes that used to be used for the extra brace that was up there, but i took off to allow for the raised gas tank to clear. I need to get a smaller bolt for that though, the one I have in there now is way too long. And yes, im going to clean up the evap canister tray and POR15 (paint) it before the project is over with. Oh and the zip ties are only temporary, im going to go to home depot one of these days soon and get some of those cool cushion clamp, C clamp type things Ive seen other people use.

[genx-treme]

Looking good bro...that little extra box is the purge valve.
You can get the little straps here Type ms21919 into the find products field. The ones I am using are the sure grip in the 300 series Stainless steel.

[xtucking22s]

oh...purge valve eh? good to know i guess, so did it matter at what angle it is mounted at? like if i had done it upsidedown or not? I think its oriented the same way as it was from the factory but im just curious if i had flipped it if it would have worked.

And those clamps u linked me too look expensive......home depot doesnt carry something just like it? Cuz i also dont know what sizes and quanitities im going to want....it just sucks buying something mail order and having to figure out quantities ahead of time, and ya gotta pay shipping too.

[rockinguitar876]

hey how much does sd charge u to powdercoat that 5-link

[got_u_sick]

Lookin great man, sick ass color for the suspension. Keep up the good work!

[AVTekk]

those two screws wont hold, the weight of the canister will eventually loosen and/or break them. typically i weld that metal bracket to something since the canister can come out of it, but i would at least replace those screws with like 3/8" bolts.

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by rockinguitar876

hey how much does sd charge u to powdercoat that 5-link

$300

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

those two screws wont hold, the weight of the canister will eventually loosen and/or break them. typically i weld that metal bracket to something since the canister can come out of it, but i would at least replace those screws with like 3/8" bolts.

these screws are pretty beefy actually, they arent much smaller then a 3/8" bolt. I think they were #14 size...stupid metric.... And even though i think it will be fine Ill go out and replace em anyways cuz Id rather be safe then sorry. I wanted something larger when I was buying them but it was the largest self tapping machines screw I could find. And when i did it tonight I almost went out to Home depot to buy 3/8" bolts but I figured what i had would work. Ill stop buy home depot tomorrow I guess, like i said rather be safe then sorry.

[zachmartin83]

i didnt even need that bracket just take the canister off it and mount it under the filler neck mine kinda rest on the brakelines but their so stiff it holds it up and just get some big zipties and zip tie it to the frame it might sound ghetto but it worked i kicked it and everything and it didnt move so its good

plus its outta the way from the exhaust heat and it keeps it close to the gas tank i only extended one line and the purge valve wires didnt need to be extended

heres a pic

[xtucking22s]

ya that works too but i didnt wanna go the zip tie route(im trying not to do anything ghetto), and its in a very good place now. Its out of the way, firmly mounted, lines and wires extended. Im happy with where it is. and I wanna leave the outsides of the frame rails clear....cuz thats where I think im going to try to mount my train horns

[zaathur151]

yea thats the same place i put mine i was worried about the heat off the muffler but i haven't had any problems

[xtucking22s]

^ Did you drill and tap a hole in the gas tank crossmember to make an exhaust hanger location I assume? im gonna have my exhaust redone once everything is finished, so think I need to drill and tap a hole and put an exhaust hanger there or let the exhaust shop take care of that whenever that time comes?

[genx-treme]

I relocated my evap cannister to the frame on the drivers side forward of the gas tank. I just drilled and tapped the frame and used the stock bolts.



I also drilled and tapped the x-member for the rear exhaust hanger and it worked out fine.

[xtucking22s]

^ Thats probably the cleanest way to do it, nice and out of the way. But where I put mine will work just fine. But I do like that genx-treme

[zaathur151]

no all i did is weld the hanger to the crossmember

[BIGGERISBETTER]

all i did was throw mine in the garbage

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by zaathur151

no all i did is weld the hanger to the crossmember

oh allright cool, ill probably drill and tap a hole since mine is allready powdercoated

Quote: Originally Posted by BIGGERISBETTER

all i did was throw mine in the garbage

lucky you ...im jealous haha

[xtucking22s]

Dave just made my focking Day! Sent me a tracking number for my switchbox(will be here Friday) and for my control arms(will be here tomorrow!)

Still on the to buy list:
Barely Legal no notch tire rods
bed wheel tubs and notch cover
fittings
air flow controls

shorten my current driveshaft
powdercoat all 4 calipers the candy blue on the main piece, and the other piece of the caliper glossy back
powdercoat rear axle glossy black
powdercoat rotors glossy black? (can i powdercoat rotors on the surfaces that arent touches by the pad?)
powdercoat disc brake backing plates on rear, glossy black
powdercoat chrome dif cover with a clear powdercoat to resist that thing rusting like everyone's seems to do


and i think thats about it?(minus all the little nuts, bolts, and hardware type things)

[mister880]

myevap canister is mounted to my driver side frame rail. between the bed and frame rail.

[rockinguitar876]

so its $1299 + 300 bucks??

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by rockinguitar876

so its $1299 + 300 bucks??

yup, plus it was like right around $100 to ship it. so like $1700 all together

[rockinguitar876]

so does it just come raw if u order it just straight??

[xtucking22s]

yes, it would be raw metal, most people just paint it

[Xtreme24]

you should seriously re think buying the no notch tie rods. you are going to have a hell of a time finding someone to align your truck. plus they don't look very worthy of daily driving. if you just notched your frame it would cost maybe $30 in materials.

[xtucking22s]

I thought it was agreed that they were easier to allign? and I thought they were overall stronger then the stock parts anyways? It is no daily driver by any means, but then again there are no plans to ever put this thing on a trailer to get it around show to show. Whats other's thoughts on this? and with 22s and stock spindles thats going to be one hell of a large notch in the frame, i dont wanna weaken it if i dont have to.

[Xtreme24]

i'm not saying that they are weak by any means, it just looks like they could cause alignment issues which would lead to premature tire and ball joint wear.

[xtucking22s]

well im curious to hear what other feel about em. what does everyone else think? yay or nay?

[xtucking22s]

so i know this is a pretty sad progress report for tonight, but oh well thats life. I got the drive shaft out, and earlier today I called up a local place "perry hall power equipment" and they will shorten my driveshaft 1/2" and rebalance it for $140. I decided to go with only 1/2" instead of the typical 3/4" because I moved the axle through its movements and with the axle touching the bottom of the frame is when the driveshaft will be extended the most and if I cut off too much, its going to be too short and will pull the driveshaft out of the tranny. so it seems like 1/2" will get it to where it will no longer limit my lift, but will also allow me to lay out.


After i got that done i decided I was too hot and just tired and didnt feel like messing with anything else. Also im starting to become limited to things I have left to do until keily comes over this weekend and welds my notches, shock bar, and rear lift bar tabs in. So I went to Salvo and the toy store (Home Depot) and got some stuff. lots of wire loom, a variety of different sized cushion clamps and at Home depot I bought a bunch of 3/8" hardware to use for replacing the screws I put in the evap canister bracket as well as I will probably use these bolts to hold the 5 gallon air tanks in, and still have a bunch left over


$0.69 for 2 of these things, they are nice. seem to be stainless steel and the rubber part is very grippy, i was suprised at how nice these cushion clamps were. I thought about getting ones from here: # 21919 http://www.mcmaster.com/ but these appear to be the same thing for a fraction of the price(especially when you consider shipping)
I will be using these to hold up wires, air lines and stuff like that. a lot nicer then zip ties...

[stevehh]

emmm goodies, I love home depot