[Project] Living up to my username

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by lowdime96

as pretty as those parts are i say go back to stock perches. if you ruined yours go get some off a junk yard truck.

ugh, i did ruin my stock ones. grrrrr

Quote: Originally Posted by genx-treme

Quick question for ya...is your rear end completely put back together...like c-clips on the axle ends, pin in? if not your axles could be pushed in...I had that same problem when I mocked up my set up..

no they arent back together. But if your thinking the axles are pushed in too far, then let me tell you why i dont think thats the case. I know the amount of clearance I used to have between wheel and frame, and its now the same. If the wheel was pushed outward anymore I dont even think its going to tuck inside the wheel well of the bed. So i understand what your saying, but if thats true its a matter of like 1/8" at most id imagine, and I need a lot more clearance then that.

Quote: Originally Posted by s10cyncrvr

I'm with the other guys, I think you're going to have problems with the pinion angle change. Look at the arcs of just the bottom bars. When you extend that bar to 18 and move the mount back, you're also going to move the mount lower. If you look at the arcs, having it lower keeps the arcs fairly close from level to compression. But if you air it up to full lift, the arcs start seperating fairly quickly.

It wouldn't hurt anything to try your plan and mock everything up, even if you have to use some wooden lower bars at 18" centers. Put an angle finder on the rearend and watch the pinion angle change from layed out to full lift. Also keep an eye on the center line of the rearend as compared to the centerline of the frame/wheelwell.

I think you would be much better off with a custom made front perch. See if your welder will make one for you. I imagine it would be cheaper then getting a set of lower bars made and powdercoated, then swapping bushings.

Also this isn't a big deal, but make sure you can put the upper shock crossmember in the correct place with those notches moved back 1". It'll probably be getting close to the front of the notch.

I complelt yunderstand the concern about affecting the pinion angle. I am going to take your advise about mocking it up with 15.5" center to center and putting an angle finder on there and taking note of pinion angles. I will also then move the frame mounts back 2.5" and extend the bars the max i can do it which will put em at 17.5" center to center. I will then move the suspension and view pinion angle in that senario. I will hopefully do all this tomorrow and report back on my findings. after that i will decided which to do.

The guy who is doing my welding for me is not fabricator by any means, im going to try and make do with the setup as planned(including the front link bar mounts), and try to use my idea because I feel it will work. And yes, I realize with my notch moved back 1" im going to need to put the shock bar all the way in the one corner of the notch. Thanks for noting that, but im one step ahead of ya

Call me stubborn if ya want, but im going to try it my way first, then I will see how things go. But I know other setups have incredibly different bar lengths, like the ART airbar, that thing uses the stock leaf perches(in the stock location) for the new front link bar mounts. So the front link bar mounts on that are like twice the length of the wishbone links. And those setups are decent and work for people, Now my link bars are going to be 9" short even if I get my new 2.5" longer ones made, so Im still MUCH better off then the ART airbar people.

We will have to see what happens tomorrow I guess when i do a little trial and error.

[LOPHAT]

sorry to find out you having all these problems dude...keep your head up.

[Twin-10s]

one other problem you may run in to moving the perch forward, is the reason that they get moved back in the first place. it may lay out on them before the frame hits.
lengthening the lower bars is going to make for some serious pinion angle change.
what is the backspacing on your wheels?
i don't have 22's but i do have 285's in the back and it doesn't hit anywhere.

[kevdog]

*subscribes*

Just found this project thread. Looking good so far! Good luck with figuring out your front lower link situation.

[AVTekk]

those 'weights' on the axle arnt weights, and they dont position the sway bar because theyre on just about every rearend out there. theyre guides for the axle on the assembly line, part of a jig fixture..

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by Twin-10s

one other problem you may run in to moving the perch forward, is the reason that they get moved back in the first place. it may lay out on them before the frame hits.
lengthening the lower bars is going to make for some serious pinion angle change.
what is the backspacing on your wheels?
i don't have 22's but i do have 285's in the back and it doesn't hit anywhere.

I allready checked and if i move the mounts forward 2.5" the perches still are no where near close to laying on the ground before the frame, they are still plenty off the ground. My wheels have a +18mm offset I believe.

i got an angle finder(after going to sears, salvo, home depot, pep boys, then harbor frieght where they finally had one). Im going to go play with stuff outside today and measure some angles.

I pmed Dave(Avtekk) and he seems to agree that my idea seems the best solution for now, but I might have to correct things by also buying axle tabs with longer tabs on it to get everything back to correct angles(which i even mentioned myself back in the original post i made about this problem). I realize I gotta spend more money, but I feel this is fixing things the right way, and if its a matter of getting it done the right way then im willing to pay for it.

[AmDD]

damn, in less than 1 month u have over 300 posts here.... awesome!

i didnt read the whole thread yet, but im gonna follow it pretty close.

one question, if you dont mind me asking... i have seen threads about your truck in the past with your lambo doors and such.... including what you have so far in bags, how much money do you have in the truck? i dont mean to be a dick, its just that i want to do a lot of the same things you have done but being 20 and a shitty job kinda sucks... lol nice truck tho man, i'll be watching!

[JediSpam]

truck is looking good. love the blue powdercoating

[xtucking22s]

I AM A GENIUS!

Ok, so I have to say it......I WAS RIGHT! And I have actually improved upon SD's design i feel. anyways, Im going to go threw everything in an excel file because I think it is the most clear, before you read that know this. i tested everything at 2 different "ride heights", 1" and 3.5" between axle and frame, i think ill preolly end up riding around more around the 3.5" range or else im gonna be riding cali style all the time cuz i cant ride with the front very low lol.

The measurements in the first blue part of the table are merely distance related to how high I put the truck up on the 4 jackstands when I balanced the truck on 4 jackstands the other day. SO the truck is perfectly level, and these measurements were taken for "relative" measurements to see how much things moved.

There are 2 "case studies", one doing things Suicidedoors way, and one doing it my way. My way consisted off flipping the bolt on axle tabs around 180 degrees, and also moving the frame mounts towards the cab 2.5". This has causes my front link bars to now be .5" longer then the SD way



look at all that nice comfortable clearance i have now( i only have 1 bolt holding the frame mount on because i was just testing this out before i drilled 6 more holes in the frame):


see what i mean? i flipped the axle tab arounds. Doing it this way means I didnt even have to notch the axle pad at all, but its too late for that lol



When I began my testing this morning and started moving things around I was extremely suprised to see that even suicidedoors parts cant be perfect.....one of the lower bars had the end piece just fall off. it looks like it was barely ever welded on? wtf? I know SD gaurantees/warranties their metal work and welding, so im hoping they will make and send me a new link bar. I couldnt believe it when the damn piece just fell off! Dave? help? its fine for now and all, but I want a new one before I go out driving on on all this



In conclusion, the problem is solved, and I dont have to buy longer link bars, or new axle tabs. All the original parts work! (with the exception that the link bar end broke off and I want a new one of those)

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by AmDD

damn, in less than 1 month u have over 300 posts here.... awesome!

i didnt read the whole thread yet, but im gonna follow it pretty close.

one question, if you dont mind me asking... i have seen threads about your truck in the past with your lambo doors and such.... including what you have so far in bags, how much money do you have in the truck? i dont mean to be a dick, its just that i want to do a lot of the same things you have done but being 20 and a shitty job kinda sucks... lol nice truck tho man, i'll be watching!

I dont mind you asking, its cool. I gotta say im probably one of the most extravagent with my spendings on this truck compared to other members. I never do anything the cheap way, i almost always buy "the best of the best" (within reason). Aftermarket parts I have probably put in somewhere around the $25,000 range, and the only thing I have ever paid for any labor was $900 for shaving my rear end and doing the roll pan, $250 for painting my interior peices and center console, and $250 painting my hood. Everything else was free labor, done by myself.

[wagonproject]

Looks good! And I dont think that nut gets welded on or else you couldnt turn it to tighten it down...

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by wagonproject

Looks good! And I dont think that nut gets welded on or else you couldnt turn it to tighten it down...

its not supposed to turn. its supposed to just be the end part of that link bar

[wagonproject]

I believe it does or at least on my KP6link it does, you can turn the end in the bar and turn the nut to the bar to tighten it...

[layinbody31]

ummmm dude...

thats a jam nut to tighten down against the link bar so that after you adjust the length of your bar the bushing won't twist on you. Its supposed to be like that...

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by layinbody31

ummmm dude...

thats a jam nut to tighten down against the link bar so that after you adjust the length of your bar the bushing won't twist on you. Its supposed to be like that...

hmmmm well i feel dumb now. But it used to be attached, then broke off. And its attached to the other link bar still...explain that one?

[wagonproject]

Well the only way it could have fell off is if you unscrewed the end out of the bar. And the other one might just be tight but it will move...

[xtucking22s]

ok so what do i do with it? just put it back on the link bar and screw it tight up to the end of the link bar? I dont really understand how that does much of anything, but if thats what your supposed to do then ok cool lol

[wagonproject]

Yes sir, adjust the bar to length you want and tighten it up.

[layinbody31]

its attatched because it was powdercoated as one whole unit and the powdercoating is holding it together. Trust me it will come off relatively easily.

And just FYI...moving the lower perches down lower on the frame will change the angles between the wishbone and lower bars which can potentially cause you to have axle roll/pinion angle change (which SD worked hard to eliminate with the kit)

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by layinbody31

its attatched because it was powdercoated as one whole unit and the powdercoating is holding it together. Trust me it will come off relatively easily.

And just FYI...moving the lower perches down lower on the frame will change the angles between the wishbone and lower bars which can potentially cause you to have axle roll/pinion angle change (which SD worked hard to eliminate with the kit)

lol, did you even read my post I made about the solution? lol. I posted the angles of the wishbone and the lower link bars, they are perfectly parallel in one case, and the other case they are damn near close. Re-read my post, and the excel sheet I made, this is the reason I spent the time to make the excel sheet, so people can see all the angles of everything

[layinbody31]

yeah that was too confusing from at first glance so I just kinda skipped over it haha. Honestly if I had the kind of time I used to have at school to just sit on the forum all day long every day I would have already read every word of every post in your thread, but I'm so damn busy now a days that I can really just kinda browse over stuff anymore and look at the pictures haha. So sorry if I'm not catching a lot of the important details its because i'm just looking at the pics lol

[xtucking22s]

haha, its allright, i understand. i also dont read every word of every post anymore since ive graduated and ive been so busy, but an excel sheet is kinda like a picture lol. its a graphical representation...which is kinda like a picture lol. But ya see what i mean? everything is going to be honkey dory with pionion angle and angles of the lower link bars in relation to the wishbone. Ive found a geniune perfect solution to the problem at hand, like the true engineer i am

[layinbody31]

after looking at your spreadsheet, it seems that while you did improve on the angles at a 1" ride height, your new angles are worse than SDs angles at a 3.5" ride height. What kinda angles are you looking at when its fully lifted?

[xtucking22s]

At the 3.5" ride height the numbers only got slightly worse, but we are talking like a 1 degree of difference here. I will probably cruise at somewhere between 2-3" between axle and frame i imagine. And that would be for "daily driving" which com to think of it is pretty non existent. So any driving would be driving around at a show, or so a show or at the grounds of a show or something where i would wanna drive low anyways, so i think im golden.

[layinbody31]

ok as long as you got it all figured out i'm gonna trust ya

[xtucking22s]

Yup, i think im good to go now! time to continue on with the project, unless someone sees a fatal error in my solution, anything other then someone flipping out about 1 degree of pinion angle difference or something at one specific ride height lol.

[layinbody31]

oh haha. you're sooooooooooooo funny.

lol j/k man

[xtucking22s]

[s10cyncrvr]

1. You'll still have to check the pinion angle after the notches are put it and with the rear end at layed out height. It should be close to that 4 degrees.

2. You were not right, lol. Last night you were wanting to use an 18" lower bar. Now your using a 16" lower bar, 1/5 the increase that you were proposing earlier. Totally different plan.