[Project] Living up to my username

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

You only need (1) 2psi RPV valve for the front. Not one for each caliper. You'll be applying too much pressure on the pads and they'll wear quicker and squeel at first cause the pad is littley being pressed into the rotor. When you have (1) RPV for the front total its a little over 1psi being applied, not a full 2 psi. Big difference in there. I've never ever heard of using deditcated RPV valves.

how would I do just one RPV? i have two outputs for the front coming out of the combination valve. are you saying to run the two outputs from the combination valve and T them together, then do the RPV, then T them a second time? that doesnt sound right at all man. Joe (Genx-treme) did his this exact same way, with 3 RPVs. once again...i just followed in his footsteps.

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by purevil115

so after all the bodys back on what else do you have todo to make it completly done and dragging that plastic off.

just get this brake line thing figured out and then its done enough to drive it. just wont have the bed, hoping eric will have that for me next week or the following week though, then get that line-Xed, then it is 100% done

[gitrdunxtreme]

thats pretty fancy! lol is there just a switch inside the brain for each output to do that? or do you have to do some modifying of some sort to get it to go momentary?

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by gitrdunxtreme

thats pretty fancy! lol is there just a switch inside the brain for each output to do that? or do you have to do some modifying of some sort to get it to go momentary?

there are dip switches on the 12 channel reciever. AVS gives you a lot for your money with the shaved door kit.

[xtucking22s]

Nick,
I just talked with Joe who very quickly responded to my PM, and he said that when he did his brake lines he actually called Earl's tech support and these are the lines, fittings, and adapters that they recommended for his application(which is the same as mine). Sorry Nick, but in this case I need to take the manufacturer's recommendations over yours. I trust your good judgement as you know from countless other things I asked for your assisstence on, but if the manufacturer recommended it, then i have to believe them. Call up tech support yourself at Earls and talk to the tech guy and he will tall you if your interested. the only thing abou tmy lines not being crimped on is that it is not DOT approved...but i dont think anything about the suspension is DOT approved either so who the F cares lol

[my2ks10xtreme]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtucking22s

Nick,
I just talked with Joe who very quickly responded to my PM, and he said that when he did his brake lines he actually called Earl's tech support and these are the lines, fittings, and adapters that they recommended for his application(which is the same as mine). Sorry Nick, but in this case I need to take the manufacturer's recommendations over yours. I trust your good judgement as you know from countless other things I asked for your assisstence on, but if the manufacturer recommended it, then i have to believe them. Call up tech support yourself at Earls and talk to the tech guy and he will tall you if your interested. the only thing abou tmy lines not being crimped on is that it is not DOT approved...but i dont think anything about the suspension is DOT approved either so who the F cares lol

Hey your airlines should be DOT approved so thats something right?

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by my2ks10xtreme

Hey your airlines should be DOT approved so thats something right?

haha this is true

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtucking22s

Nick,
I just talked with Joe who very quickly responded to my PM, and he said that when he did his brake lines he actually called Earl's tech support and these are the lines, fittings, and adapters that they recommended for his application(which is the same as mine). Sorry Nick, but in this case I need to take the manufacturer's recommendations over yours. I trust your good judgement as you know from countless other things I asked for your assisstence on, but if the manufacturer recommended it, then i have to believe them. Call up tech support yourself at Earls and talk to the tech guy and he will tall you if your interested. the only thing abou tmy lines not being crimped on is that it is not DOT approved...but i dont think anything about the suspension is DOT approved either so who the F cares lol

Thats funny, I just got off the horm with Arron from Earl's Tech, he just reiterated the same thing i just told you. He also went on to say that they highly recommend steel fittings over aluminum and he said that the Speed Flex lines are safe to 3300psi if they are crimped. Are you sure Genextreme got the info right about whether the fittings are crimped or DIY installed? I'm not trying to argue or anything but have you had any complete loss of brakes situations in yoru S10? I got the shit scared out of me in KC when I was trucking down the highway several years back and had the front left rubber brake line completely burst. It dumped the entire master cylinder of fluid and I shit you not, the only way I was stopping was with the e-brake and even then you can't lock it up at high speeds or you'll be all over the place. I was in heavy traffic when it happened and I had to ditch to the shoulder at 80mph and blow by about a 1000 cars before I stopped.

Complete catastriphic loss of brakes was bad, with 16" wheels, when you start rolling the 22s like you got you need even greater pressure to stop, meaning your system and system's fittings are stressed that much more.

I'm only tossing this shit out your way cause the brakes are more important than HP and going fast. Sure, going fast is cool. Being able to stop and tell your buddies how fast you went is even better.

Take it for what its worth but I'd never lead you astray on such an important component as the brakes.

[xtucking22s]

well its what you say versus what Joe said. I dont know anymore....

[genx-treme]

Nick...I had talked to Dave at Earls Tech about the Speed flex lines and the Speed Seal fittings before I ordered them. He recommended that I go from the -3 line up to -4 line and use the steel hose ends and that they would be ok when I decided to upgrade to a hydrobooster....Now, I understand the concern about the few aluminum fittings that are in the system, but unfortunately they do not make a steel fitting in that size of inverted flare. Not trying to start a fight here, but I may have got some bad info there.

[my2ks10xtreme]

Sounds like brake lines are fun!

A buddy of mine has been working on putting steel braided lines on his Blazer X, and has been have a bad leak in the rear, think he just fixed it after a week or 2 working on it. But after reading everything here and seeing what my friend went through no thanks...

Stock Brake lines FTW!

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by my2ks10xtreme

Stock s-10 FTW!

fixed it for ya lol. aftermarket is nothin but problems

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtucking22s

fixed it for ya lol. aftermarket is nothin but problems

Lol!! good one.

[genx-treme]

The truth.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by genx-treme

Nick...I had talked to Dave at Earls Tech about the Speed flex lines and the Speed Seal fittings before I ordered them. He recommended that I go from the -3 line up to -4 line and use the steel hose ends and that they would be ok when I decided to upgrade to a hydrobooster....Now, I understand the concern about the few aluminum fittings that are in the system, but unfortunately they do not make a steel fitting in that size of inverted flare. Not trying to start a fight here, but I may have got some bad info there.

I hear ya. I just don't f-around with brakes. What fitting size are you looking for. Its recommended that when you use AN fittings that you're to use all the same brand to ensure machining tollerances of the 37* are consistant. However, Sometimes another manufacture will make the fitting needed or worst case scenerio you have to stack a couple fittings together to create the proper conversion from one fitting type to another. I primarily used Earl's for 99% of my system however I have a couple Aeroquip and and other brand fittings to make conversions. I don't have many conversions though, I resorted to going back to SAE double flares for a majority of the conversions. I kept my entire system equivelent to stock with 4AN (4AN = 1/4" lines like stock is) however the line running across the engine craddle is 3AN (easy to find 4AN to 3AN fittings). On the axle I have 3AN also using an Earl's distribution block that has (3) 3/8-24IF ports. I used 3/8-24IF to 3AN fittings for 2 ports running to each drum and (1) 4AN steel fitting running to the frame.

I'm glad you guys are at least contacting tech about information on it, but think about it guys, would you really find riding in your truck truely enjoyable knowing there is a weak point. Not trying to argue. Got nothing but respect for you fellas but I seriously hate to hear you guys bite it in the concrete wall cause something failed. The crimped lines have a steel insert in the hose. When the crimp is made the hose is basically sandwiched between the fitting's flute and the insert. Crimping is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy stronger that the DIY installed fittings.

Case in point. I have 8AN Earl's braided 350 hose running from the scuba tanks to the low pressure tank. I had the system charged to 210psi, no where near pressure of a brake system. I was sweeping in the garage when suddenly BANGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I mean loud enough that you almost piss and shit your pants wondering what the F was that), the fitting exploded out of the hose. The hose was fine, the fitting was fine, the fitting slipped out of the hose. I assure you, I installed the fitting exactly per the instructions of Earl's.............to the 'T' even using the Earl's lubricant for installing the fitting. I resorted in using some Loc-Tite from SD. The air fitting loc-tite they sell solidifies upon heat. Friction causes heat. Ever notice the loc-tite get kind of chunky when you tighten down the fittings? Anyways, I used the loc-tite as a lubricant to slide the fitting in rather than using the Earl's fitting lubricant. Once the loc-tite cured, the fitting basically became glued into the hose.

However, be careful of this trick. I have blocked AN fittings with loc-tite if you use to much.

Just giving my 2 cents. Whether you guys try to cash in the 2 cents for a dollar is up to you. Just be careful. There is a lot of money invested in your ride that is dependant on the security of the brake system.

[xtucking22s]

allright well all i can say is ill be carefull and make sure to inspect everything often. if i start to feel iffy about some things then i guess ill bring the hoses into the parker store and have them put crimped fittings on there. Ill get the brakes lines/fittings finished up this weekend with the new RPVs and a few new fittings and see where I go from there. ill do some priliminary starting/stopping testing in my driveway, then up and down the neighbordhood across the street, then reinspect everything. if i find signs of leaks...i guess ill bite the bullet and pay parker to redo my hose ends.

[xtucking22s]

allright...i got all the new brake fittings on....there are no longer any leaks, yay! But im an idiot when it comes to actual engine related moving parts/inner working of a vehicle....so im having one hell of a time bleeding the brakes or whatever. I tried gravity bleeding them by just opening up the bleeder valves and letting it drip for like an hour. i got fluid coming out of all 4 calipers, so that clearly means fluid is getting from the master cyclinder, into the combination valve, through the RPVs, and through all the lines. so the lines are clear. but once i put the bleeder valves back on/tighten them and i hit the brake pedel repeatidly I dont build any pressure...like the brake pedal doesnt become stiff at all. whats the deal? what do I need to do? I examined all the fittings and I'm not getting any visible fluid leaks....nothing is dripping onto the ground...master cylinder isnt going empty. so WTF?!?!?! i hate brakes SO much

[Wicked Mayhem]

why not get a second person to pump the brake pedal and hold it, then you open the fitting on the caliper, watch the fluid come out till the pedal hits the floor, then you tighten the fitting, then they pump again and so on till no fluid comes out.

i didnt read through any of the junk thats been typed so i dunno if this has been done i just read the last post about gravity bleeding them and that sounds like a dumb and long way of doing it.

[xtucking22s]

Quote: Originally Posted by Wicked Mayhem

why not get a second person to pump the brake pedal and hold it, then you open the fitting on the caliper, watch the fluid come out till the pedal hits the floor, then you tighten the fitting, then they pump again and so on till no fluid comes out.
.

is this the correct way to do it? everyone i have talked to said gravity bleeding is the easiest way to do it, longer but easiest. so do i pump the pedal a bunch of times with the bleeder closed, then push the pedal all the way to the floor, then open the bleeder and once fluid stops coming out then i tighten the bleeder and then the can release the brake pedel? and i do this how many times?

[genx-treme]

you will still have have air in the system gravity bleeding...you need to get another helper and do like wicked suggested...

[genx-treme]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtucking22s

is this the correct way to do it? everyone i have talked to said gravity bleeding is the easiest way to do it, longer but easiest. so do i pump the pedal a bunch of times with the bleeder closed, then push the pedal all the way to the floor, then open the bleeder and once fluid stops coming out then i tighten the bleeder and then the can release the brake pedel? and i do this how many times?

correct. You do it as many times as required to get a firm pedal...

[xtucking22s]

ughhhhh allright ill try that tomorrow then. im getting ready to leave to go pick up my drivers door, fender and hood then having a few people over and put this thing back together. leavin in 15 minutes...so ya. thanks for the help wicked and joe, hopefully that works.

[Wicked Mayhem]

yeah ive always done it till i get nothing but fluid coming out several times on all brakes. never had problems.

[gitrdunxtreme]

well there is the old farmers way of doing it well not really farmers way but works none the less(only one person needed) . Take the brake line into a pop bottle that has a bit of brake fluid in it and pump the breaks. It'll bubble the air out and suck in the brake fluid and get all the air out of the system. Just an idea? At least that will gurantee that all the air is out of the line.

[layinbody31]

Progress looks good

[optikal]

i love the smell of fresh paint in the morning. adam just picked up his parts from my shop so lets hope to see some updates soon

[xtucking22s]

got everything on but the hood because i the fender might come off cuz the door might come off. eric can you please come down tomorrow and help me? I dont know if you disconnected the latch rods on the passenger side door but the door closed....and wont reopen. the drivers door door handle works like a charm. so ya....being a body guy maybe you know tricks to getting doors open when the rod come loose? but anyways my friend took pics with his camera cuz he is a far better photographer then i am so im waitin for him to send me the pics and then ill get them posted hopefully tonight. but eric let me know if/when you can come tomorrow

[cpolaris502]

when i bled mine i ordered a self bleeder kit off of ebay. its just a hand suction pump with a hose that goes to the bleeder screw and has a can inline with the hose to catch the fluid. it worked pretty good, got a little sore doing the rear lines though haha. if you know its not going to be your last time with brakes it wouldnt be a bad thing to get.