A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To - S-10 Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 42 Old 07-11-2012, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Exclamation A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

OK this is for second gen trucks, but the principle is the same for any vehicle.

NOTE/DISCLAIMER: I will NOT be doing a super detailed how-to on this a/c repair. this repair requires you to know what you are doing to prevent damage to the a/c system, so i wont be going into detail on how to remove the a/c from the engine...etc. if you cant figure that out, you probably shouldnt be working on a/c. basic mechanic skills needed to physically replace the parts. Proceed at your OWN RISK!! if you are new to a/c repair READ this thread A FEW TIMES BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR!!! This how-to is based on a/c compressor failure/general leak and the process to fill the system.

OK now that is said and done here are some PDF files i acquired.

This is the general fill up and recommended pressures @ temps on page 10.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B0R...HJPZEc4d2JScmM

This one is more of the overhaul, BOTH contain/cover the same info, but its good to have both. it may say "preview not available" but you still have the option to download it. this PDF should cover any repair not listed in this how-to.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B0R...1NRQVF2ZjNUTlk

So, finally did the a/c on the ZR2 and decided to do a writeup about it, being summer is here and a/c questions are always being asked.

i purchased the A/C manifold gauges from Harbor Freight for $40-60. it does the job gauge wise as it's accurate, but yeah the knobs are fragile so don't crank down on them to close the valve. compressor... either buy new OEM, or a good new aftermarket, rebuilt compressors don't seem to last as long.

The system in the 2nd gen trucks hold 28oz of 134A, and 8oz of PAG oil. use the PDF above to see more information on the system specs.

ITEMS NEEDED
  • A/C manifold gauges
  • 28oz 134A
  • PAG 150 oil (or whatever your compressor comes pre-filled with, make sure you check that. use what the compressor comes with, flush out the old oil.)
  • a GOOD vacuum pump (CAN BE RENTED AT AUTOZONE WITH THEIR RENTAL PROGRAM. ITS FREE!!)
  • A/C compressor
  • Accumulator/dryer
  • O-ring kit
  • orifice tube
  • basic hand tools with some decent sized wrenches
So here are the materials gathered.


first, make sure the system is completely empty unless it has already leaked out. a shop with a recovery machine can remove your old 134A if the system still holds pressure.

second, remove the intake...2.2, or 4.3 you will need to do this. again, if you cant figure this part out, stop and seek a professional to complete the repair or READ the PDF above to learn more about the a/c system and removal procedure.


Remove the serpentine belt, then remove the compressor, 4 bolts attaching it. and the a/c lines and the clutch connector up front. on the 4.3 models the high pressure switch is located in the back of the compressor, so don't forget to unhook that before removing the compressor.


4.3 owners, Chances are your new compressor will NOT come with a high pressure switch....so flip your old compressor over and using a snap ring tool, remove the high pressure switch and install it on your new compressor. the new compressor will have a plug, as shown below. remove and install the switch here. clean any debris from the switch to make sure it seals. or buy a new switch if you suspect the old one to be bad.


where the old is leaking. generally these compressors leak in the middle. you could wash the compressor/oil off with water and see if oil appears, if so, you have a leak. discontinue further use of the compressor to prevent more damage to the system.

Thought i heard a loud hiss when turning the a/c on one day. apparently some 134A/oil blew out lol.


using a pair of channel locks i kept the hardline/accumulator steady. its VERY IMPORTANT YOU SUPPORT THE ALUMINUM LINES WHEN REMOVING THE FITTINGS. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL CAUSE THEM TO BEND AND TWIST!!


simply unscrew the low pressure switch from your old accumulator (if still in good working order) this repair can be done on a fully charged system as there is a schrader valve to keep the pressure in.


orifice tube removal. it is VERY important you change this. the screen easily clogs, and is critical for proper a/c operation (and its cheap). it is located on the bottom of the evaporator coil, by the frame. needle nose pliers are needed (or a special tool) to remove it. it should come out easily. again, support the lines when removing the nut on the line. replace O-ring.



some metal shavings, but not bad. I've seen worse lol. now, if your orifice tube is packed with metal shavings, i suggest you replace the condenser up front. most likely its clogged with metal shavings as well and if you don't replace it, the orifice tube will just get clogged again and introduce contaminates in the system. i believe they sell for $120....a lot cheaper than a new a/c compressor/charge and would be cheap insurance....or just ignore what i typed and go ahead and don't replace it....see what happens

if you have nitrogen available you can blow out the lines to free any possible debris.




i grouped the O-rings for easier matching. that single black o-ring was a stock one. make sure you get the correct one and replace every o-ring from any connection you remove. you could replace ALL the o-rings but if its not leaking you don't have to...but that is a chance you will have to take, as the old ones could start to leak. lubricate the o-rings with mineral base 525 refrigerant oil...but if you cant get any you can use mineral oil to lubricate the o-rings...also heard dielectric grease works too but i don't know if i would use that. don't use pag oil to lubricate the o-rings. it attracts moisture and can corrode the fittings (or from what i have heard) make sure you do not torque the crap out of the lines! doing so can cause the fitting to leak too. just make sure its fairly snug, but dont force it.

If your compressor is shipped with oil, and its 8 oz, leave it. if your compressor was NOT shipped with oil, add the correct amount of pag oil to the system. refer to the PDF above for this info. rotate the compressor 10-20 or so times once installed to cycle the oil throughout it.


next, draw a vacuum for 40 minutes. suppose to be 30, but whatever, doesn't hurt if you do it a little longer. make sure you open the high, and the low side on the gauges and the valves are open on the quick connect. the valves on the quick connect you tighten down to open, sorta opposite, but it pushes down the valve on the line.

Close both high/low valves and turn the vac off for 10 minutes for a quick leak check. there was none. so let it sit for 20 more minutes to confirm no leaks. i do know some leaks can not leak on a vacuum, but can when pressure is present. also there is a chance the A/C manifold gauge could leak, or the quick connect... something to keep in mind.


So, now its time to fill the system with 134A. a hot pan of water helps prevent the 134A can from freezing. DO NOT TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN WHILE FILLING!!! This could damage the compressor.

  • start the truck
  • turn the a/c on max
  • fan speed 4 or max.
slowly open the low side valve, DO NOT OPEN THE HIGH SIDE AT ANY TIME!! this will cause the can to pressurize dangerously and could EXPLODE. you are dealing with 150-300 PSI from the compressor going into a can that is not designed to hold such pressure.

so, the system would be filling up with 134A, the compressor wont be running at this time, but once the pressure builds enough it will kick on for a few seconds and shut off, and keep cycling slowly. every time the compressor kicks on, it draws in 134A from the can (it will get cold) you will also see the pressure increase on the high side, and the low side pressure dropping while the compressor is on.

after the first can the compressor should be running constantly, for the most part. the late model 4.3s and 2.2 have a variable displacement compressor, so they do not cycle on/off during operation.

after the second can the system should be blowing cold, open the 3rd can and use a digital scale to weigh it, add 2 more oz of 134A to fill the system. Refer to the pressure tables in the PDF for the correct high/low pressures. take note of the current ambient temperature, and humidity and follow the chart. page 10 of the first PDF will have it, as well as the second pdf. with ~28oz of 134A in the system, and at 1500 RPM with the A/C on max, and the blower speed maxed, the pressure should be very close to what the PDF files state.


Rev the engine to 1500 RPM as per GM manual. had to get creative LOL. you can fill the system at idle, but to get the final reading you need to do this step.
df87129c by bean4dip, on Flickr

it works! (forever alone )


close the valve on the high/low port quick connects, and remove. leak checking the high side port with some water. Sometimes, these leak, so it wouldn't hurt to replace the valve. on the high side port it simply screws off, it looks like one piece on the hardline, but in fact 2 pieces. make sure you use a wrench to hold/support the line before removing the port. the low side port likes to leak sometimes. even with a new accumulator/dryer. i use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pull the schrader valve out. this should stop any leak at the valve. it also wouldn't hurt to run the a/c while checking the high port. as the greater pressures would likely cause a leak if one is present. using compressed air, remove the water from the port and let it dry before installing the cap.


results....


nice and healthy system sweats.


So hope that will help you guys getting A/C to work. please, do some reading before attempting this job. its easy once you get things figured out and understand. by no means am i a "pro" at a/c systems. but i do have enough knowledge to work on them. please, if anyone has any questions or suggestions, post your thoughts.


-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler

Last edited by beandip; 04-15-2014 at 09:58 PM.
beandip is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 42 Old 07-11-2012, 04:04 PM
▂ ▃ ▅ ▆ █ ▆ ▅ ▃ ▂
 
ZQ8 Blazer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Western, Ky
Age: 33
Posts: 34,408

User is: ZQ8 Blazer is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Good job!


ℐustin
ZQ8 Blazer is offline  
post #3 of 42 Old 07-12-2012, 04:32 PM
Registered User
 
jsmz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 356

User is: jsmz is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Very nice. I just replaced my high side valve and needed to pull a vacuum. Could not find any pumps for rent and didnt want to drop the coin on a pump.

So I ripped the pump out of an old refrigerator, attached an AC low side fitting to the "suck" tube on the fridge pump. Hooked up a cheap vacuum gauge to the pump and it was pulling -29. Hooked it up to the system and heard it belching air out of the oil for quite a while. Left it on there sucking for 45 minutes and then charged it back up with 2 1/2 cans (50 psi at 85*f). AC is now colder than a witches tit.

Totally a "hick" way of doing it, but it really didnt cost me anything besides the cans and high side valve.. Its a good solution for those who need a vacuum pump on a budget.
jsmz is offline  
post #4 of 42 Old 07-13-2012, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Just added that i rented the vacuum pump at autozone through their rental program. its free, just gotta pay the cost of the pump, and you get your money back when you return it.

forgot to mention this in my first post.

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #5 of 42 Old 07-13-2012, 03:42 PM
Registered User
 
Dropped'01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino So-Cal
Age: 33
Posts: 2,531

User is: Dropped'01 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

I already fixed my a/c but i was going to check out the links you posted. Do have them in something other then google docs?

'01 S10 2.2L 5 speed, 3"-4" drop, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster, 56mm TB, OBX header, STS Pulleys, Cavi Seats, envoy handles, 8k HID Headlights & Fog Lights, SS Mirrors & Gen III bumper cover, 18" 225's.
Dropped'01 is offline  
post #6 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

i can email, i think....not sure what the size requirements are for google, but the second link i posted is 40 mb or so.

but you cant get google docs to work? trouble viewing?

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #7 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 03:52 AM
Registered User
 
Dropped'01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino So-Cal
Age: 33
Posts: 2,531

User is: Dropped'01 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

I dont have google docs. I think you have to sign up for it so i cant see anything when i click the links, just the home page for google drive. If you have to sign up to see it then it might be good to have a different way to access the information, if possible.

Nice write up BTW

'01 S10 2.2L 5 speed, 3"-4" drop, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster, 56mm TB, OBX header, STS Pulleys, Cavi Seats, envoy handles, 8k HID Headlights & Fog Lights, SS Mirrors & Gen III bumper cover, 18" 225's.
Dropped'01 is offline  
post #8 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 05:10 AM
▂ ▃ ▅ ▆ █ ▆ ▅ ▃ ▂
 
ZQ8 Blazer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Western, Ky
Age: 33
Posts: 34,408

User is: ZQ8 Blazer is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

I didn't have to sign up to view Phil's google docs.


ℐustin
ZQ8 Blazer is offline  
post #9 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 10:20 AM
Registered User
 
jsmz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 356

User is: jsmz is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

I think the rental pumps are ymmv depending on the location. I went to advanced, oreillys, and autozone all of them gave me a clueless look and said no when I asked about one. This is the armpit of the united states though so Im not surprised.
jsmz is offline  
post #10 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 03:15 PM
Registered User
 
Dropped'01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino So-Cal
Age: 33
Posts: 2,531

User is: Dropped'01 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Thought firefox might be blocking it but wont work on explorer either. Not sure oh well

'01 S10 2.2L 5 speed, 3"-4" drop, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster, 56mm TB, OBX header, STS Pulleys, Cavi Seats, envoy handles, 8k HID Headlights & Fog Lights, SS Mirrors & Gen III bumper cover, 18" 225's.
Dropped'01 is offline  
post #11 of 42 Old 07-14-2012, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

odd.....you should be able to view them. if anything be logged into gmail. let me see if i can correct this.

:edit: ok, apparently when i uploaded them they were set for private. i set them to where anyone with a link can view, no sign in required. let me know if it works or not.

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #12 of 42 Old 07-15-2012, 02:59 AM
Slowly but eventually
 
98lowerednewproje's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: AR
Age: 29
Posts: 2,957

User is: 98lowerednewproje is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Thanks for posting this, I have put off buying stuff to do A/C work myself cause I didn't know the pump was available as a rent-a-tool.

Procrastination has carried me this far in life, it will carry me to my grave, and hopefully put that off as well.

'98 RCSB on jack stands, waiting on me to get the 4.8 and T56 swap together, while I steal parts off of it to keep the daily going.

'99 2DR 2WD Blazer that I bought for a daily but just can't leave it alone.
98lowerednewproje is offline  
post #13 of 42 Old 07-15-2012, 02:43 PM
Registered User
 
Dropped'01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino So-Cal
Age: 33
Posts: 2,531

User is: Dropped'01 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Its still asking me to sign into google docs. I'm not signed up w/ google docs but i was signed into gmail and it still didnt work. Ive never used google docs so maybe its just me

'01 S10 2.2L 5 speed, 3"-4" drop, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster, 56mm TB, OBX header, STS Pulleys, Cavi Seats, envoy handles, 8k HID Headlights & Fog Lights, SS Mirrors & Gen III bumper cover, 18" 225's.
Dropped'01 is offline  
post #14 of 42 Old 07-19-2012, 12:18 AM
SSRT-S10
 
my_nightmare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,132

User is: my_nightmare is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Beandip .. (just my 2 1/4 cents.., nothing personal meant by it...)

Where's the flushing of the system ??? I, personally ,would NEVER install a new system without flushing out the lines, condensor, and evaporator extremely good. Especially if the orfice tube came out looking like that above !!! I am willing to bet that that condensor weighs a bunch ....

It Just my thoughts on the subject..., Flushing the system.., it's extremely cheap insurance when the price of compressors run from 100.00 up to 400.00 these days....

Advance and Orielys sell pressurized flush in a can for around 16.00 (tall can with a hose attached to it with a rubber tip on the hose..)
Poor mans way..., carb cleaner.., or brake clean and then use pressurized air... Anything, really, that will cut thru grease and that can be blown out of the line with pressurized air....

I just did two of these today... one in a blazer and the other in a dime.... 37-41 degree temps....

And Awesome tutorial above...,Just thought I would ask about the flush part...

l8taz,
Allen
my_nightmare is offline  
post #15 of 42 Old 07-19-2012, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Nothing personal taken, its a valid question.

i did blow out the lines with nitrogen, all that came out was some clean pag oil. nothing black or chunky . nothing looked like how the orifice tube above (pic made it look worse than it actually was)

generally if a system experiences complete compressor failure, as in the whole thing seizes up, then yeah, flushing wont save the condenser and replacing it is your best bet...

in my case, i had a few "large" metal shavings caught in the orifice tube, nothing serious. the a/c blew perfectly cold too. its a good thing sorta that the orifice tube clogs up easily. basically a filter I did catch the oil leak soon though. i'm sure if i didnt i would have to replace condenser as well. (it was stock sealed a/c system)

those flush cans, i figured they were crap honestly. i never used one but i suppose they do work. i just didnt feel like introducing more possible contaminates into the system by using a "flush" kit, and having the leftovers of that kit sitting in the bottom of the condenser.

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #16 of 42 Old 07-19-2012, 08:45 AM
Slowly but eventually
 
98lowerednewproje's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: AR
Age: 29
Posts: 2,957

User is: 98lowerednewproje is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

I don't want to add much since I don't know alot, but on the options of a poor man's flushing liquid, add rubbing alcohol. I hold the hoses up high and pour it in both directions and then blow it out. I like rubbing alcohol cause its not as harmful as carb or brake cleaner and evaporates almost as well.

Procrastination has carried me this far in life, it will carry me to my grave, and hopefully put that off as well.

'98 RCSB on jack stands, waiting on me to get the 4.8 and T56 swap together, while I steal parts off of it to keep the daily going.

'99 2DR 2WD Blazer that I bought for a daily but just can't leave it alone.
98lowerednewproje is offline  
post #17 of 42 Old 07-20-2012, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

here is the orifice tube we pulled out of an 01 tahoe with rear air (that was fun). complete compressor failure....needless to say we had to replace just about everything. the screen on the orifice tube was crushed (imploded) and filled with metal shavings.


-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler

Last edited by beandip; 04-15-2014 at 10:00 PM.
beandip is online now  
post #18 of 42 Old 08-09-2012, 06:02 PM
Better post-em.
 
comics22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Middle of freakin IL
Posts: 11,035

User is: comics22 is offline
Send a message via AIM to comics22
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

nice writeup! my 02 blazers AC died the other day, thought i would try just refilling it and seems to last a day or so then it leaks out. do the storebought UV dye kits work at all?

i replaced the low side shrader valve already as i checked it about 2 months before it died as it didnt feel as cold of air and thought it could have not seated well.

whats the common failures with this AC system?
comics22 is offline  
post #19 of 42 Old 08-10-2012, 07:26 PM
always something new
 
S10dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento,Ca.
Age: 63
Posts: 54,068

User is: S10dude is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

compressor

All truck pics
http://s93.photobucket.com/user/sdim...?sort=3&page=1.........


Marc .........."01" ExCab 2.2 - 5sp ......On Air......
.......... 2014 Harley Street Glide Special
S10dude is online now  
post #20 of 42 Old 08-13-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

well...just about a month after i charged the system...guess what? it cycled on me the other day....threw the gauges on it, low charge. i soaped all the connections i took off and others, found out the high side port had a tiny leak, so i poked at the rubber valve and it stopped, then i noticed that there was some liquid refrigerent/oil on the low side port.

turns out the schrader valve was loose a little more than 1/4 turn and leaking from there

so time will tell now.....

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #21 of 42 Old 08-13-2012, 10:01 PM
Better post-em.
 
comics22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Middle of freakin IL
Posts: 11,035

User is: comics22 is offline
Send a message via AIM to comics22
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

do those do it yourself UV detector kits work at all?
comics22 is offline  
post #22 of 42 Old 08-14-2012, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
Tech Mod
 
beandip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South, OK
Age: 28
Posts: 30,601

User is: beandip is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

from what i have seen, they do work. the stuff is uv reactive and dyes the oil, so if it leaks, you should be able to see it. really not much to it.

-Jonathan



2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop on staggered gray boss 338 18s, Flowmaster original 40 series.
My Project thread--->http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/pr...driver-361848/

{PROJECT ZR2} 2000 S10 ZR2 181,XXX miles, 31x10.5 BFG KM2 MT on 15" Pro Comp 152s, Iron front diff, 1.5" T-bar crank & custom bumpers & shackles, + more
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/be...ct-zr2-485836/

1992 GMC Jimmy - Project Daily Beater Status/Ordinary beater
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/da...status-520683/

2009 Harley Nightrain

2008 Silverado 2500- "the usual" done to it.

1984 CUCV - Rock crawler
beandip is online now  
post #23 of 42 Old 08-15-2012, 01:13 AM
Better post-em.
 
comics22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Middle of freakin IL
Posts: 11,035

User is: comics22 is offline
Send a message via AIM to comics22
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

cool. ill have to do that i guess. im guessing its cheaper to do it yourself than pay someone? those friggin 134 cans are like $12 a pop haha
comics22 is offline  
post #24 of 42 Old 08-15-2012, 02:55 AM
Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
 
n8rsk8r's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: tWilightZone
Posts: 3,117

User is: n8rsk8r is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

in solidarity to you on the forever alone man.. feck.

was actually reading this awesome fucking manual you produced and thinking.. I need someone around here.. as it is i am going to pay a guy who works with my const. co. to help me swap out my trans'.. lol jeeze.

1999 2WD Automatic S10 standard cab.

I have nearly rebuilt this damn truck 100%!!
n8rsk8r is offline  
post #25 of 42 Old 08-02-2013, 02:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Age: 45
Posts: 39

User is: dmarti is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Great write up, what is the correct compressor part number we should buy for a 4.3L 2000 Sonoma? I prefer AC Delco.
dmarti is offline  
post #26 of 42 Old 08-02-2013, 06:19 PM
Registered User
 
burned's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 49
Posts: 2,424

User is: burned is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarti View Post
Great write up, what is the correct compressor part number we should buy for a 4.3L 2000 Sonoma? I prefer AC Delco.
I prefer the Sanden A/C compressor over the AC Delco belly leaker.

http://www.sanden.com/productsearch.php?model=4261

2002 Dakota, QC 4x4, 4.7L HO Intake.
1997 S10 ZR2, Ext Cab, 5 Speed (SOLD)



How to test fuel pressure and leak down <---diagnostic help
burned is offline  
post #27 of 42 Old 06-14-2014, 06:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Age: 60
Posts: 1

User is: AUGER56 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Thanks so much for this write up. Just got done replacing everything mentioned and had it charged. Blowing cold air compared to the warm before this quick fix. Bring on the heat.
AUGER56 is offline  
post #28 of 42 Old 06-28-2014, 04:01 PM
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 9

User is: newred1 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Before I spend the money, any other ideas on my system on my 85. There was nothing in it, so we put 134 in and it blew cold for a week. Then nothing, the back of the compressor looked liked it leaked there. We vacuumed the system and my uncle said it held for like 30 minutes. I tried putting more in, just to double check, but it won't even take anything, the gauge on the can doesn't move when pull the trigger, the compressor is running. I don't know long the system hadn't worked, so could it just be clogged, the filter, or condenser?
newred1 is offline  
post #29 of 42 Old 03-13-2015, 07:19 PM
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clearwater
Age: 25
Posts: 8

User is: DoDaHarry is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

sorry to dig up another old thread, but figured it was better than starting a new thread on the matter.

have a '98 s10 2.2L 5 speed. mechanic quoted me 700-800 bucks to do an AC system (compressor, condensor, evaporator, dryer, and charge)..

as i am fairly mechanically literate and have a couple good sources to go by including this thread here which is invaluable. (thank you beandip!!!) i have a part list for a condenser/compressor/evap/dryer/and oil and refridgerant. all thats left is the gauges and a vac system. total around 300 bucks with a can of HVAC flush.

only questions are am i missing anything? is there anything else i should do while i got everything apart? not looking to break bank and go all performance, but not bottom barrel. im good with spending an extra 30 bucks to save myself 100 two years from now. any reccomendations or brands to go with? i know there are certain things that shouldnt be flushed and certain things that should be. dont want to go through all this work and be back to square one in 6 months

ive put it off for 5 years as im terrified of putting AC in it and killing the motor (been there done that, not my fault lol) but as it is getting to be summer in florida and im a big guy, i cant do the heat any more if im going to be driving a little farther for work.

thanks again for all you guys do, you rock!!

cheers!
-Harry

Bow ties are cool
DoDaHarry is offline  
post #30 of 42 Old 07-18-2015, 02:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Age: 63
Posts: 2

User is: rbrewers is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Can someone tell my about the voltage at the AC compressor clutch? I'm getting 14 plus volts. Isn't this to high? Any ideas why this could be happening?
rbrewers is offline  
post #31 of 42 Old 07-31-2015, 10:43 AM
Registered User
 
TomB1269's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Age: 46
Posts: 29

User is: TomB1269 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrewers View Post
Can someone tell my about the voltage at the AC compressor clutch? I'm getting 14 plus volts. Isn't this to high? Any ideas why this could be happening?
rbrewers - No when running a good alternator will put out 14.5 volts (+/-) throughout the cars electrical system.

Also OP - Great write up..... I had always steered clear of A/C system as the pulling a vacuum was an issue. I will be checking with local AZ to see if they have the pump & gauges. I had been telling my son if the A/C issue on his new 1997 Sonoma was more than a recharge/leak seal, then it would not be something I'd fix. However with your write-up I will be willing to tackle it. I figure if I rebuilt an engine this should be relatively easy particularly with what you provided here.

1997 Sonoma
2002 Ranger
2005 F150
2006 Freestar
TomB1269 is offline  
post #32 of 42 Old 09-18-2015, 02:59 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Age: 29
Posts: 2

User is: tamcoaircon is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Thank You So Much....

Your post is very helpful ......
tamcoaircon is offline  
post #33 of 42 Old 09-18-2015, 10:30 AM
General L33
 
Hotwire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Summerfield, NC
Posts: 1,955

User is: Hotwire is offline
Send a message via AIM to Hotwire Send a message via Yahoo to Hotwire
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Here's an alternative way to pull vacuum. It's not the best, but it honestly works, just make sure you eat your wheaties as it gets old really quick:



*EDIT* Also, the high side ports usually get gummy when someone uses stop leak in the a/c system and that's when they start leaking. I found Napa sells high side ports that use schrader valves instead of the plastic balls. It costs about $5 more than the plastic ball one, but it's worth it.

*Jeff*
1998 4dr 2wd Blazer, 06 L33 5.3L, LS6 cam, 3.73s, built trans, etc.. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/p...blazer-512528/
Hotwire is offline  
post #34 of 42 Old 05-09-2016, 11:09 PM
Urban Hick
 
Firm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mississauga Ontario Canda
Age: 27
Posts: 2,841

User is: Firm is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Reviving an old thread here


I am getting set to do this job as my A/C has been non-op for a few months now, and the compressor bearing has gotten pretty loud (even when the A/C is off), so it's gotta go.


Looking on RockAuto for parts and there's a relatively cheap kit from Sanden that includes all the parts Bean listed. Thoughts on this kit? Anything else I should get?


http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....362912&jsn=442

1978 MGB, 1984 Camaro, 1985 Trans Am, 1996 Firebird, 2000 Sonoma ZQ8, 2001 M-Benz SLK320, 2006 Cadillac Escalade
www.doubleclutch.ca
Firm is offline  
post #35 of 42 Old 05-12-2016, 01:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 68

User is: daczone is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Very Helpful! Thank You... I now have COLD air again.
daczone is offline  
post #36 of 42 Old 05-22-2016, 01:08 PM
Registered User
 
burned's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 49
Posts: 2,424

User is: burned is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firm View Post
Reviving an old thread here


I am getting set to do this job as my A/C has been non-op for a few months now, and the compressor bearing has gotten pretty loud (even when the A/C is off), so it's gotta go.


Looking on RockAuto for parts and there's a relatively cheap kit from Sanden that includes all the parts Bean listed. Thoughts on this kit? Anything else I should get?


http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....362912&jsn=442
Sanden is the way to go for A/C. It will outlast the factory system.
Before installing make absolutely certain that the mounting bracket surface is perfectly flat with a straight edge. Torque it down in steps using an "X" pattern.

This is what you want. You can find it on Amazon
http://store.sanden.com/index.php/4440.html

2002 Dakota, QC 4x4, 4.7L HO Intake.
1997 S10 ZR2, Ext Cab, 5 Speed (SOLD)



How to test fuel pressure and leak down <---diagnostic help
burned is offline  
post #37 of 42 Old 05-23-2016, 11:36 PM
Urban Hick
 
Firm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mississauga Ontario Canda
Age: 27
Posts: 2,841

User is: Firm is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Thanks man
I went ahead and ordered a Sanden kit.

Does anyone know what sizes wrenches the hardlines, particularly the ones at the accumulator use? I did I quick check today and I couldn't find anything in my toolbox that fit....

1978 MGB, 1984 Camaro, 1985 Trans Am, 1996 Firebird, 2000 Sonoma ZQ8, 2001 M-Benz SLK320, 2006 Cadillac Escalade
www.doubleclutch.ca
Firm is offline  
post #38 of 42 Old 08-09-2016, 12:05 AM
Urban Hick
 
Firm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mississauga Ontario Canda
Age: 27
Posts: 2,841

User is: Firm is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

So I installed my Sanden kit about a month and a half ago. Honestly it was a pretty easy job, even for somewhere like me who hasn't worked on A/C before. Bean's walk through really helped and I got the compressor changed, new accumulator, orifice tube and replaced a bunch of the o-rings. Once I had completed the work I had a friend who works on A/C use his equipment to pull a vacuum for 45 minutes, we left it for an hour or so to confirm that it would hold the vacuum. It did, so I charged it to what I believe to be the correct pressures following the guide above and the truck has been blowing cold since.
However, I have noticed that the compressor doesn't run constantly, even when on "Max A/C" it will cycle on and off. Is that because the Sanden compressor isn't a variable displacement compressor like the original? I double checked my pressures and I am fairly certain that they're where they should be.....Anything else that'll cause it to cycle?

1978 MGB, 1984 Camaro, 1985 Trans Am, 1996 Firebird, 2000 Sonoma ZQ8, 2001 M-Benz SLK320, 2006 Cadillac Escalade
www.doubleclutch.ca
Firm is offline  
post #39 of 42 Old 08-09-2016, 12:34 AM
_____________________
 
koeberle04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,814

User is: koeberle04 is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

cycling is normal on the 4.3's. when the pressure between the high/low side starts to equalize, the clutch engages, and repeats this process. however, if it is cycling very quickly, this can be a sign of low refrigerant, defective low pressure switch....

the 2.2's have a VDC.



...if my reading is correct lol

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f137/d...-click-389840/


Also, I'm with you on how helpful this thread is. I installed a whole new AC system in my truck using this as a guide mainly. It's been blowing cold since.

Neil
2000 - S10 - RCSB - 2.2 - Vin 5 - Black - Flex Fuel - 106K
koeberle04 is offline  
post #40 of 42 Old 08-09-2016, 12:36 AM
B4U Task Force
 
Rhotpursuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Spanaway, Wa
Posts: 11,556

User is: Rhotpursuit is online now
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

They are supposed to cycle...my Sanden did.

U.S.C.G. "So others may live"

Apple Red 96 SS
Rhotpursuit is online now  
post #41 of 42 Old 08-09-2016, 01:35 AM
I'm super serial
 
manbearpig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: stl
Posts: 1,115

User is: manbearpig is offline
Garage
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

Putting it on Max A/C just opens the recirculation door. Of course it's going to cycle if it's running cooler air from inside the cab across the evaporator...




WANTED: 98+ radio delete panel, antenna hole plug.
Crew cab airbag switch delete panel
manbearpig is offline  
post #42 of 42 Old 08-09-2016, 08:19 PM
Urban Hick
 
Firm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mississauga Ontario Canda
Age: 27
Posts: 2,841

User is: Firm is offline
Re: A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To

OK, good to know. Thanks guys!

1978 MGB, 1984 Camaro, 1985 Trans Am, 1996 Firebird, 2000 Sonoma ZQ8, 2001 M-Benz SLK320, 2006 Cadillac Escalade
www.doubleclutch.ca
Firm is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the S-10 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.


Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome