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Old 08-20-2011, 03:33 PM   #1
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ISO wiring harness.

Hello all!

As this is my first post, please be gentle with me - I would appreciate it. Also, before someone fires off snarky commentary at me over my question, please know that I have searched these forums extensively for an answer to my query, but to no avail.

Now, the particulars: I have a 1991 S-10, standard cab, short bed 4WD with the 4.3L, non-Vortec engine. It currently has the factory radio, with a cassette deck - I believe the rest of the system is stock as well.

I plan to change out the head unit, for a Pioneer DEH-63UB receiver. At this time I am making no further changes to the system. I had initially planned to swap the receivers this weekend, but now I'm not so sure...which brings me to my question.

Can anyone tell me precisely which wiring harness will work in my truck?

I have done research on the matter, and many, many websites later, I am still baffled. At the Crutchfield site it appears that a Metra wiring harness No. 70-1677-1 is recommended, but I know of no local retailers that carry this particular harness - which I was hoping to obtain during an errand run today. Now, I presume that Crutchfield knows their stuff, and as my late father just LOVED the company, I have a nearly genetic propensity to trust them.

To complicate matters, as I will be running errands at Walmart later as well, I see on their website a couple of options, to include a couple of Scosche harnesses purported to be compatible with my vehicle. There's a GMDA harness, and the GM02B 'mini' variety. If either of these harnesses are compatible with my vehicle I would just as soon get one while I'm out.

So, hopefully, I have been clear in my query, but if not, please let me know where I might clarify things.

I look forward to your replies, and thanks for reading!
Old 08-22-2011, 07:09 AM   #2
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Take out the radio and match it at wally world.

that is about the time GM was switching over from one harness to the other. i have seen both in them

to get your radio out its only like 5 screws.

Dont forget your antenna adapter and dash kit too..
Old 08-22-2011, 10:23 PM   #3
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Good grief! This is the third time trying to post my reply.

Thanks for the advice aaronajb1981. I had hoped to avoid taking actual parts into Wally World, but maybe I'll have to if there was such a disparity in harnesses around that time.

I think I already have screws loose (on my factory unit)! I can jiggle the trim bezel, or whatever that is pretty easily, and it rattles when I drive, so getting the unit out may not be too much trouble.

I have a dash kit already and though I find some things about it confusing, I feel confident that I can make it work...it's the right kit for my S-10.

Didn't know about the antenna adapter, and wasn't sure I'd need one, but given the likelihood of Murphy's Law whenever I touch anything mechanical/electronic or plant-like, I guess it wouldn't hurt to have one on hand!

Thanks for the reply, and if anyone else has tips around this, please enlighten me...I have only had this vehicle for about 1 month, so I am open to advice of all sorts!
Old 08-23-2011, 12:02 AM   #4
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Really? You find the product and you still have questions? *looks at post count* Ahh that explains it.

Did you even bother checking Scosche's site?

http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/258
that
http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/260

Pick one and go with it, First link was what I used in my 88 s10 blazer and it swapped over to my 91 Baja with no problems. With my alpine head unit, the 2nd one was included with it and guess what....

It worked too.
Old 08-25-2011, 01:18 AM   #5
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by renswic
Really? You find the product and you still have questions? *looks at post count* Ahh that explains it.

Did you even bother checking Scosche's site?

http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/258
that
http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/260

Pick one and go with it, First link was what I used in my 88 s10 blazer and it swapped over to my 91 Baja with no problems. With my alpine head unit, the 2nd one was included with it and guess what....

It worked too.
Oh please - post count? You are going to presume to know anything at all about me based on post count (copious eye-rolling).

You know, if you want to help me, great...I'm all ears. If you don't want to help then don't, believe me, I won't be reduced to sniveling and whining if you DON'T condescend. But honestly, do you think that replies such as yours are conducive to civil forum interaction when you essentially berate someone for what you perceive as their search function deficiencies?

As a matter of record, yes, I did go to many sites - inclusive of the sites from which you so 'generously' posted pictures - and yes, I still had questions...oh, like real world experience versus theory.

I can appreciate your own experience with your switch from your '88 Blazer to your '91 Baja, but I must say it kinda left a bad taste in my mouth with all the vitriol.
Old 08-25-2011, 01:32 AM   #6
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

The harness you will need will be a Metra part #: 70-1858, the 70-1677-1 is for 80s GM vehicles.

You'll also need an antenna adapter... Metra part #: 40-gm-10

Depending on where you get the part they will use their own part #s, just google the #s I gave you so you know what they look like or go to www.metraonline.com

hope this helps,

Nick
Old 08-25-2011, 01:33 PM   #7
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Thank you so much for your informative and considerate response 1gmc2nv. You made the point that I am clearly too limited to make (probably due to a low post count) in that the parts/information available at various websites is often inconsistent and/or just plain inaccurate.

Not that I am suggesting anyone do this, but if one were so inclined to look for a harness such as I am seeking you will find this disparity between, let's say the following 3 sites: Scosche, Metra and Crutchfield - and then, Walmart has yet different wiring harness types, should one wish to convolute matter further! All of the wiring harness options available from these sources state that they are compatible with my vehicle.

When I first posted to this forum I was just looking for information that I could possibly use in the moment, just before heading out to do errands, and if I could have combined causes, spectacular...if not (as it turned out), well, I thought perhaps I'd get a little more data and make an informed decision based on the the expertise of the people here.

So, now that I have received this information, I intend to use it when time permits and will post my results as I attempt the installation.

Again, I thank those of you who have answered my question(s) kindly and thoughtfully. It is appreciated.
Old 08-26-2011, 10:56 AM   #8
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by 1gmc2nv
The harness you will need will be a Metra part #: 70-1858, the 70-1677-1 is for 80s GM vehicles.

You'll also need an antenna adapter... Metra part #: 40-gm-10

Depending on where you get the part they will use their own part #s, just google the #s I gave you so you know what they look like or go to www.metraonline.com

hope this helps,

Nick
I have seen the 1677-1 used all the way up till 91 and if it needs the 1677-1 then it doesnt need the 40gm10
Old 08-26-2011, 11:09 AM   #9
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Good point... it's been a while since I've done an older s10... i thought mine had a 70-1858... maybe it was a transitional year...

I would definately consider using a Metra harness, the quality of the plug and play connector is much better and the pins line up better. Some other harnesses will have loose connections as the harness is moved around or twisted when it is jammed back into the dash.

Hope this helps,

Nick
Old 08-26-2011, 10:05 PM   #10
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Hello again!

OK, I pulled the HU out of my S-10 to see if I could easily make out what sort of wiring harness I would need and what you see in the image is what I found:



As viewed let me say that the wires on the far left are those for the cigarette lighter. The other parts of the harness are inline: blue (goes to the speakers, right?), white and black. I believe that the black cable-ish wire at the far right is for my antenna, but I have no idea what that lone little harness/socket to the left of the antenna lead is.

Also, I thought there would be 'more' to this arrangement - I mean, I thought that the factory wiring was supposed to terminate in some kind of female receptacle and that I was supposed to wire another harness between the wires from my new HU and that the newly created plug would then connect to the factory receptacle. The arrangement in the photo looks nothing like what I expected - which is fine, I just need to know what to do with it!

Forgive me if my terminology is off...I haven't had much education in automotive electronics, sorry.

So, any opinions as to what might work best? I apologize if I'm bugging anyone with this stuff, and of course no one is obligated to answer, but I definitely appreciate your feedback!

Last edited by UpL8; 08-26-2011 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Clarification
Old 08-29-2011, 07:42 PM   #12
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Thanks aaronajb1981!

I was thinking that one, or maybe the Metra 70-1858 - but I think I will take the advice offered here (voice of experience, you know).

I order from Amazon all the time, so it shouldn't be a big deal to add the harness in with my next order.

Awesome! I will post my results just to conclude this thread.

Thanks again for the aid!
Old 09-02-2011, 01:52 AM   #13
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Hello, I'm back, with an update!

I bought the Metra 70 1677-1 harness, pulled my existing factory HU and checked to see if the Metra harness would fit - it did/does.

I just wired the Metra harness up to the Pioneer HU harness by matching wire colors and the tiny little writing on them. This is the first time that I have 'officially' soldered and shrink-tube wrapped anything.

Now I have a couple of 'leftover' wires and thus, some questions.

1) There is a striped blue wire from the Pioneer harness, it is labeled "Remote" - which I don't currently have with this HU, and don't actually anticipate needing since I will be right there to control the HU - should I just tape/cap this wire, at least for the time being?

2) Speaking of blue wires, there is a solid blue wire on the Metra harness, it is labeled for a power antenna, which I don't have and again, don't anticipate needing. Can this wire be taped/capped?

3) The Metra harness has a solid orange wire alongside the 12 volt constant wire in the two-wire harness, it is labeled "Illumination/Dash Light" but there is no exact parallel in the Pioneer harness - the Pioneer harness has a striped orange wire labeled "Dimmer". What do I do with either/both of these wires?

As a reminder, the HU I intend to install is a Pioneer DEH-63UB if that bears on this matter at all.

Thanks for any and all advice around this - I am learning as I go here and while I expect to make mistakes here and there, I would certainly prefer to avoid them where possible!
Old 09-02-2011, 02:38 AM   #14
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by UpL8
1) There is a striped blue wire from the Pioneer harness, it is labeled "Remote" - which I don't currently have with this HU, and don't actually anticipate needing since I will be right there to control the HU - should I just tape/cap this wire, at least for the time being?

2) Speaking of blue wires, there is a solid blue wire on the Metra harness, it is labeled for a power antenna, which I don't have and again, don't anticipate needing. Can this wire be taped/capped?

3) The Metra harness has a solid orange wire alongside the 12 volt constant wire in the two-wire harness, it is labeled "Illumination/Dash Light" but there is no exact parallel in the Pioneer harness - the Pioneer harness has a striped orange wire labeled "Dimmer". What do I do with either/both of these wires?
1. That is for the remote on signal for amps. Not needed if you are not going to run a subwoofer or if you are not going to hook up an external amp to power the speakers.

2. Yes. Though I am a fan of just pulling the wire out of the harness(can pull and yank while holding the connecter or try to pop the pin loose)

3. Honestly I've never hooked the dimmer light in any head unit I have installed.
Old 09-02-2011, 04:13 PM   #15
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Oh boy, do I feel stupid...the remote wire, ha ha...never thought it was a remote turn on for an amp - I was thinking in terms of a wireless remote, to control the head unit (an option for this receiver). I should have stuck with my intuition around this when I asked myself "Why would a wireless remote need a wire to connect to something else?" -- total dope! Thanks for clearing that up for me! For the moment, I think I will probably tape the wire off just so that if I ever decide to tie in an amp or whatever, I will have the access.

I'm impressed, renswic, that you are assertive enough to liberate wires completely from their harnesses - me, I'm not that bold - maybe someday. Until then, I guess I will just tape that wire off as well.

Actually, it sounds as if I can pretty much tape off all of the wires in question and call it a day...and believe me, that suits my state of mind around this much better than other horror stories I've read where people have connected the dimmer wire to the illumination wire and shorted out their entire dash lights; or when the dash starts smoking, etc. No thanks!

Thanks for the advice...I will try to remember to take photos as I go with the installation, but I feel lucky that I remembered to get the shrink tubing on the wires before I soldered the harnesses together last night, I can't promise anything! LOL!
Old 09-02-2011, 07:01 PM   #16
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by UpL8
I'm impressed, renswic, that you are assertive enough to liberate wires completely from their harnesses - me, I'm not that bold - maybe someday. Until then, I guess I will just tape that wire off as well.

Thanks for the advice...I will try to remember to take photos as I go with the installation, but I feel lucky that I remembered to get the shrink tubing on the wires before I soldered the harnesses together last night, I can't promise anything! LOL!
Not much room for extra wires behind the dash, I've almost always pulled non needed ones out of the harness

I've managed to solder wires together only to notice that I forgot the heatshrink
Old 09-03-2011, 11:50 PM   #17
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Hola!

Well, as the photo below (grainy and ugly as it is) indicates, I installed my HU today.



I am relatively content with the installation, it was definitely easier than I thought in some ways - like that the harnesses went together easily and my connections are apparently good. The sound from the new HU is better than it was, although I am pretty clear on the need for a speaker upgrade over the somewhat lacking factory jobs that are in there now. I like that I can plug in a USB flash drive and play MP3s. The HU has WAY more functions than I can even begin to enumerate, much less understand at this point...so I need to get used to that!

The bad part of the installation is that the HU ended up sagging a bit in the dash kit, even with the sleeve. I rigged up a little adjustment with zip ties and now it doesn't sag, but I don't know if that's going to be a permanent fix...it seems kinda trashy.

Another bad thing is that between the HU's wiring harness and the heat sink on the back, the whole thing barely squeezed into the opening and in fact protrudes about 1/8" over the 1" or so that the kit indicates. There is some sort of plastic ducting or the like at the back of the opening and I wouldn't feel comfortable cutting into that in order to accommodate the HU, or if further modifications are even feasible since the protrusion isn't all that noticeable. So I guess I can live with this arrangement until I find another solution - if there is one.

And, since I decided to avert further confusion and possible disaster around the whole dimmer/illumination/dash lights issue, I taped off any errant wires. The net result there is that the HU doesn't dim when the headlights are on, but that's OK, I can sort of tone down the brightness by changing the display colors.

All in all I'm happy with how this went, and wouldn't have even attempted to do this installation myself had I not received the guidance I received here at this forum. I truly appreciate it.

At this point, I am just venturing out to my truck on occasion to turn on the HU and check for possible battery drain in case a bad connection rears it's ugly head.

So, as a sort of recap, let me go over this installation real quick:

Started with a stock 1991 S-10 regular cab with factory audio.

Got a good deal on a Pioneer DEH-63UB, so that's what I installed.

Purchased a Scosche GM04 Dash Kit without any real idea if it'd work (it did), but it seemed like the best choice, plus, I was already at Walmart...

Purchased a Metra 70-1677-1 wiring harness based on advice from this site.

Test fitted as much as I could prior to soldering/shrink tubing Pioneer/Metra harnesses together, then, eventually took the plunge and connected the harnesses (only seems like a big deal to me because it was the first time I'd soldered anything).

Installed today, tested and so far it's ggggrrrreeeeaaaat!

Thanks again, all!
Old 09-04-2011, 02:52 AM   #18
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by UpL8
1. The bad part of the installation is that the HU ended up sagging a bit in the dash kit, even with the sleeve. I rigged up a little adjustment with zip ties and now it doesn't sag, but I don't know if that's going to be a permanent fix...it seems kinda trashy.

2. Another bad thing is that between the HU's wiring harness and the heat sink on the back, the whole thing barely squeezed into the opening and in fact protrudes about 1/8" over the 1" or so that the kit indicates. There is some sort of plastic ducting or the like at the back of the opening and I wouldn't feel comfortable cutting into that in order to accommodate the HU, or if further modifications are even feasible since the protrusion isn't all that noticeable. So I guess I can live with this arrangement until I find another solution - if there is one.

3. And, since I decided to avert further confusion and possible disaster around the whole dimmer/illumination/dash lights issue, I taped off any errant wires. The net result there is that the HU doesn't dim when the headlights are on, but that's OK, I can sort of tone down the brightness by changing the display colors.
Looks good!

1. What do you mean by sagging?

2. Try it with RCA cables, a USB cable and an aux cable

The plastic ducting is for the HVAC, you can heat it with a heat gun and mold it back some(on my list of things to do before I run 2 more RCAs off of mine) If you punch a hole it in, I've seen(and have used) people use the metal duct tape(the real stuff they used to seal duct work in houses, not the cloth stuff)

3. As I said in an earlier post, I've never bothered with the illumination wire. So far in 13 years of driving the only time it has truly bothered me is when driving at night in Montana during a blinding fog/sleet storm(on my honeymoon too!) at that point the radio was already off so I just pulled the faceplate. If it bothers you too much, I beleave you can hook it up to the parking light wire off the light switch(PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS WITH OUT CONFERMING FROM OTHERS, I'm not 100% on the info so ask here and wait for some one that may know better.)
Old 09-04-2011, 02:59 AM   #19
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Rereading my earlier replys, I may have given you bad info in ref to the illumination wire question.

Quote:
3) The Metra harness has a solid orange wire alongside the 12 volt constant wire in the two-wire harness, it is labeled "Illumination/Dash Light" but there is no exact parallel in the Pioneer harness - the Pioneer harness has a striped orange wire labeled "Dimmer". What do I do with either/both of these wires?
If the solid orange wire on the Metra harness mates up to a wire in the factory harness it should work if you connect it to the dimmer wire on the Pioneer harness.

Again I'd wait for conformation on that as I don't ever use the dim feature.
Old 09-04-2011, 01:48 PM   #20
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

renswic -

Thanks for the replies. Honestly, as far as the dimmer/illumination thing goes, I really am not going to sweat it too much now, the beauty of this particular HU is that one can change the colors on both the display and the keys of the unit, to include deep, deep colors that don't glare out at you, so until it gives me trouble, I am SO not going to mess with it for the moment. Whilst perusing information on the wires in question, I've read that other folks who've connected these wires improperly have unleashed a host of ills upon themselves that they were ill-equipped to handle - anything from shorting out their dash lights, blowing fuses, killing their batteries, frying their wiring...you name it. I thought I was in over my head with this little installation...there's no way I am ready to deal with any of those other issues!

The sagging thing...hmm, maybe I didn't explain that properly. Let me give it another whirl....

OK, I inserted the HU into the metal sleeve which had been installed in the dash kit. I bent the metal tabs in the sleeve down as was called for in the instructions. When I picked up the whole assembly and looked it over, I saw that the rear of the HU slanted/sloped/angled down at the rear. Essentially, it was weighed down at the back, what with the heat sink, the wiring harness(es), antenna wire and perhaps gravity. So the HU was pretty much hanging off it's faceplate trim ring when in the horizontal position for installation. I realize that this is probably due to the fact that the Pioneer HU is significantly thinner than the factory radio. At any rate, I went through the extra brackets/tabs, etc. that came with the Scosche Dash Kit and couldn't find anything that would work...at least to my totally inept eyes; then it occurred to me to thread some zip ties through the holes in the dash kit sleeve/bracket. I ran the ties under the HU and zipped 'em up just tightly enough to keep the rear of the HU suspended near level. For now, it works. I will definitely be checking into other possible solutions though. Like I said before, I know my 'fix' is kind of trashy, but I do like the simplicity...believe me, if you knew what I am really like, I can complicate most anything - that I let this go 'as is' is akin to a miracle!

Now, on to the ducting matter. It's an intriguing thought to heat-mold the plastic there to accommodate the very slight depth difference. I may do that once I get back in there to add/change/adjust things in the near future. But should I opt for cutting, I will definitely look at the use of REAL duct tape, not the cloth stuff - I probably would have chosen a better quality of repair anyway as I don't like having to do things over - but your suggestions are going to save me some time, so thanks - again.

I expect that I will be changing some of these things as I add on to my system...if/when I get to a point where I add an amp or something where I use the pre-outs, I will need the clearance; it's great that we're going over that now, and I will add this information to my file on this truck, just so I don't repeat myself unnecessarily, or not bother to search fully! LOL!

I went out and checked the installation again this morning...OK, I went out twice...the first time was just to make sure (again) that there was no battery drain - and there isn't, thank goodness. The second time was spent trying to figure out how to use the damned thing - it's kinda confusing and I am thinking about ordering a remote control for it just so I can wean myself over the learning curve! Though, honestly, if I just make myself get through it I suppose it'll become second nature soon enough.

I LIKE it!
Old 09-04-2011, 05:04 PM   #21
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Ive never ran across a sagging problem like that. All I can really think of is to see if you can snug up the sleeve, When I install the sleeves I use as many of the metal tabs as possible to hold it in.

If you get tired of the zip ties or they brake, could always try some rubber bumpers(albeit some rather tall ones) to support it.

I honestly hate the lack of space for aftermarket radios in our first gens, there is room for every thing, if you take the time to route it right and care to have a mini rats nest of wires so you can place the connectors were there is room(on mine it is down by the defrost/under steering column splitter, the thing that is behind and a little below the access panel in the glove box) The real probem came with the USB cable that hooks into the back of my headunit via a screw. As I keep my ipod in the ashtray I didn't need the full 3 or 4 foot cable that Alpine saw fit to send with it. I tried a 1 foot cable and while it worked it would work it self loose(speed bumps are evil, evil devices) Ended up going back to the long screwed in cable and zip tieing it to the right of the head unit using a stick on zip tie mount. The RCAs for my amp are smashed ageist the ducting for now, heat gun will be taken to the ducting at some point.

Pain in the ass it is

Glad you like your new radio, for future reference when you get tired of the stock speakers. Dash size is 4x6 and 4x10 in the rear, a 10in sub will get you plenty of extra bass but not to the point that people can hear you coming when you are 5 miles away. it is also possable to mount speakers in the lower door panel but that does require a bit of work, and I think they still make kick panel mounts for first gens, though I'm not sure if they are compatible with trucks that have the kick panel vents.
Old 09-04-2011, 06:31 PM   #22
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

renswic --

Yeah, I considered the possibility that the sleeve wasn't in the dash kit snugly enough, and it's likely given that the tabs, even at the full 90 degrees they are, aren't enough to stiffen things up to the point that the HU is completely supported. That's my theory at this point. Rubber bumpers, eh? That could be a good alternative, and would 'give' enough in normal usage, perhaps to include bashing over the evil, evil devices to which you refer.

I hate the lack of space you mention as well, but I guess that's what happens when, as I understand it, auto manufacturers tend to include sound system design as more or less an afterthought, and perhaps have done all along. Or maybe they're in cahoots with aftermarket companies and it's mutually beneficial? And I suppose that if space wasn't conserved where it can be, we'd all be driving vehicles the size of Sherman tanks! LOL!

If you thought I seemed confused and/or out of my depth around this somewhat minor installation of a HU, you ain't seen nothin' yet - just add the whole amplifier/subwoofer configuration thing and I am totally lost. I knew the speaker sizes after doing the research on both Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix' sites and I'm cool with replacing those...can't imagine that it would be any harder than the HU installation if it's just a rough 'plug and play' proposition. But adding bass, that's going to prove maybe a little tougher. As my profile information indicates, I am 47 years old and don't even pretend to enjoy much of what passes for music in this day and age; I am instead stuck in a time warp that pretty much ended in the '80s (according to a few of my friends, they'd say that it was the 1780s as I listen to a lot of classical and traditional 'cultural' music), so the need for a system with bass that'll defibrillate me while I drive is hardly necessary.

A few years back I bought a good 8" subwoofer with the intention of setting up an infinite baffle 'enclosure' on the advice of an amateur installer buddy, but he ended up being deployed (Marine) and everyone moved on so I never did get that done, but I still have the subwoofer and was thinking about getting an enclosure for it. From all I've read about an actual box relative to my musical taste, inclusive of the music previously mentioned, and considering that I primarily listen to classic rock, the 8" subwoofer in a ported box would likely suffice, but just barely. Yeah, a 10" subwoofer would probably be better, but since I already have the subwoofer I might try that first, with an amplifier that could also accept the use of a 10" subwoofer should it come to that.

I am also considering the much maligned - at least here on this forum - Bazooka amplified tube in the smallish 6.5" size. I know, don't even start, it's probably sacrilegious to even mention such a thing, but I have an 8" Bazooka tube in my '89 full-size Bronco and it's just about perfect for me, and the Bronco has a whole lot more room to fill with bass. Plus, again, the relative ease of installation of a 6.5" amplified tube does have its appeal.

Before anyone unloads on me about the Bazooka, please realize that I'm just speculating at this point...nothing's sure around this yet!

Of course, I will continue to read of others' experiences in the realm of car audio, particularly here since that's the type of vehicle I'm trying to outfit, and believe me, if something strikes me as particularly ingenious or magnificently suitable, I will explore the possibilities and most likely ask a ton of questions!
Old 09-04-2011, 08:36 PM   #23
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Re: ISO wiring harness.

Quote: Originally Posted by UpL8
I am also considering the much maligned - at least here on this forum - Bazooka amplified tube in the smallish 6.5" size. I know, don't even start, it's probably sacrilegious to even mention such a thing, but I have an 8" Bazooka tube in my '89 full-size Bronco and it's just about perfect for me, and the Bronco has a whole lot more room to fill with bass. Plus, again, the relative ease of installation of a 6.5" amplified tube does have its appeal.
Bazookas ain't all that bad, I had one in my first car, 89 corolla, had a sony tape player with rear output RCAs, ended up wiring all 4 speakers to the front wires and used the rear RCAs for the Bazooka. Ran my power wire from the battery, under the car and drilled a much to big hole(3/4 inch for a 8ga wire). No fuse, no grommet, no wire hiding or anything, ground wire was was striped about 1/4 of an inch and hooked up via self tapping screw.

To this day I'm shocked that I didn't set that car on fire.

Running power on a first gen is easy. Battery to fuse holder, from there the antenna grommet, under the carpet or door seal and to your amp.

RCA's and remote on wire are easier. Drop them down from the radio, go under the 4x4 console. If you have bucket seats and a center console you can run it under the console. If it is a bench seat you can go under the seat(not sure of how much space is between the 4x4 console and a bench seat) or go under the carpet at the rear of the 4x4 console.

Not all cars are as cramped for space. My wife's old 03 Taurus and our current 98 Sable have TONS of room to work with
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