How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

B_Rich · 09-04-2009, 10:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 1stGen4.3

Well I suppose I'll throw it on and see what happens. The 125 amp rating is specified at 14 volts so maybe that has something to do with it?

No, I really don't think that would matter.

neo71665 · 09-04-2009, 10:53 PM

14 volts is just what the reg is set at and a alt should never read above that (unless it is indeed a racing 16volt model but thats another ballgame).

VVVAll numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.VVV

If the alt is being taxed this voltage will drop as the alt heats up and the performance drops. This often happens with the smaller factory alts installed on vehicles with greater than factory loads. Take a s-series for example. The factory alt is rated at 105 amps, just say the stock electrical draw is 103 amps (number out of thin air as I don't remember the exact one). The factory load is less than the alts amp rating but real close to matching it. This means the factory alt is just barely capable of handling the factory load. This is also in ideal conditions and temps. The engine bay with the heat, oil, and water is about one of the worse places any electrical component can be placed. With that being said say the engine bay stays at 100 degrees (fictional figure) the alt de-rates from 105 to exactly 103. You add more electrical load (that nice fancy stereo you always wanted) you jump the load to 120amps. The alt will try to keep up but start over heating and its output gets even worse. As this happens the battery takes up the slack and this is why you see the volts drop.

^^^All numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.^^^

Voltage readings give you somewhat a clue the alt is not big enough but shouldn't be used solely as a testing measure.
Truth be known damn near ever alternator out there in an ideal environment with ideal conditions should put out 14.4 volts at any RPM.

JIMMYPITBULL · 09-12-2009, 03:09 PM

I'm sure glad I found this forum ,alot of great info from some smart ppl .I look forward to learning some new stuff and sharing some of my tricks.....Have a great day to all of you.........Jimmy

mannyx3 · 10-26-2009, 09:16 PM

i was wondering if u put a high output alternator and then you put the performance pulleys with a loud sound system will it make a difference or anything.

B_Rich · 10-26-2009, 09:28 PM

I've heard the performance pullies will potentially decrease your output at idle, but don't quote me on that as I've never done it.

colbye32 · 10-26-2009, 10:55 PM

Well I don't know if any of the guys in this thread have ever put a ad244 alternator on a 2.2 s10 before, but I did this today.

I got the alternator for $10 at a local junkyard, my buddies dad knows them quite well as he is a mechanic, so they hooked me up.

First off will say this is NOT a direct bolt on for the 2.2, there was some major cutting/grinding of the side of the alternator and had to drill the holes out a tad larger to make it fit. I bought a 1" longer belt thinking I would need it. Turns out i grinded it just right, the stock belt fits on great! went right on.

Will get more pics of the alternator tomorrow when it is daylight, but i just got this finished,took me a while, cause i wanted it all to look nice and smooth. So far the alternator works GREAT, I am going to drive the truck more tomorrow and will post my results.

here are some crappy night sell phone pics just for shits and giggles. It is getting painted tomorrow or the next day, i wire brushed it good tonight.

enjoy.

compared to the stocker you can see in this pic a little

B_Rich · 10-26-2009, 11:11 PM

Very nice dude! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you're the first to get an AD244 on a 2.2L?

Awesome job, well done.

colbye32 · 10-26-2009, 11:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by B_Rich

Very nice dude! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you're the first to get an AD244 on a 2.2L?

Awesome job, well done.

thats what i was thinking man, i told my brother, i was like dude, im the first one to put a ad244 on a 2.2 s10, hell yea. he was like oh? cool

i saw that one on the cavi, but i never saw on on a s10.. Will get more pics tomorrow after its all painted and cleaned up and daylight.

thanks man, I will post pics of the grinding/cutting i had to do to make it fit, wasn't much to me, it was so well worth it, best 10 dollars i ever spent on my truck.

juddspaintballs · 10-26-2009, 11:32 PM

congrats. the other 2.2 guys will thank you

colbye32 · 10-26-2009, 11:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by juddspaintballs

congrats. the other 2.2 guys will thank you

all i can tell them is be ready to have their grinder ready

im going to put a stock 105 amp in the stock ac location tomorrow or the next day= so that will be 250amps of power. that should be enough power to keep my 1200rms going and my massive dc7500 compressor, and my electric fan, and headlights going and then some

will post more pics of the install tomorrow

B_Rich · 10-27-2009, 01:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32

all i can tell them is be ready to have their grinder ready

im going to put a stock 105 amp in the stock ac location tomorrow or the next day= so that will be 250amps of power. that should be enough power to keep my 1200rms going and my massive dc7500 compressor, and my electric fan, and headlights going and then some

will post more pics of the install tomorrow

Post up how you tie together the wiring harnesses too.

Good luck man, this is awesome lol.

colbye32 · 10-27-2009, 03:28 PM

Well guys, as promised,the dual alternator mod is complete. I am running 1 ad244 large case in the stock location, and 1 cs130d in the stock ac compressor location. Turns out one of the bolts was a direct line up, just needed a nut on the back, i did have to grind say 1/4" from the housing on the right side of the cs130d, that made that side of the alternator pulley line up with the rest of the accessories, made a small custom bracket out of some 1/4" stock, and drilled 2 holes in it, and mounted that up. Got a belt from part store for 14.99. Had a 4 pin connector already here at the house, along with the wiring for the alternator. For right now, i am running 8 guage wiring from the cs130d to my distribution block. the ad244 has 0 guage wiring from the back of the alternator to 1ft in front of it to the dist block.

Truck runs great, no lag or anything, I get 14.4-14.5 volts at idle cold or warm - and a constant 14.4v all the way through the rpm range.

On the 4-5pin connector whatever it is, there is 1 red wire, i cut it and soldered another wire to that wire, and ran it over to the other alternator, and had a 4-5pin connector laying here, just a standard 1 wire one, soldered it on there, and heat shrinked it, easy as pie.

enough the talk, onto the pics.

evanspears1 · 10-27-2009, 04:51 PM

WOOT WOOT, im glad someone actually tried this!!

I dont guess you took any pics of how you had to mod the AD244 to make it work did you?

neo71665 · 10-27-2009, 04:55 PM

Its all cool but one thing I don't understand. If you were gonna add the factory one back to it why even move it? Why didn't you make one custom bracket and just add the AD244 to where the AC was?

I can understand if it was for height clearances or what not but it looks like you had the room and just done double the work.

Very cool still, good to see more of us running 2 alts. I've got my 2nd one removed right now but I put it down where the AIR pump is on a 1st gen. Right under the factory one so unless you know what you are looking at my bay still looks somewhat stock, lmao

pro-rabbit · 10-27-2009, 05:24 PM

Just an FYI for everyone...There was a link to Nations Starter and Alts...DO NOT BUY FROM THEM...They are a local company and their workmanship is horrible. Many of our customers went to them for custom alts, and not a one lasted over a few months. Then they made up BS reasons not to warranty them.

colbye32 · 10-27-2009, 07:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

Its all cool but one thing I don't understand. If you were gonna add the factory one back to it why even move it? Why didn't you make one custom bracket and just add the AD244 to where the AC was?

I can understand if it was for height clearances or what not but it looks like you had the room and just done double the work.

Very cool still, good to see more of us running 2 alts. I've got my 2nd one removed right now but I put it down where the AIR pump is on a 1st gen. Right under the factory one so unless you know what you are looking at my bay still looks somewhat stock, lmao

The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm.

Like it or not, this is highly functional, the best $25 mod I've ever done to this truck right here.

My trucks lights do not flicker one bit even with the heater on 4, electric fan on, system going full blast, or the massive air compressor going.

neo71665 · 10-27-2009, 08:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32

The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm.

Cool, makes sense now

cichlid_baby · 10-30-2009, 01:16 PM

From what I have been told and been able to research....

Regarding to the DR44 and DR44G alternators more commonly found on the newer GM trucks, besides having the two pin regulator connector.. another major difference with this unit compared the the AD244 alternators is that on the DR44 and DR44G the bridge rectifier is embedded and fused into the rear casing to form one single part where as on the AD244 the bridge rectifier is completely removable and upgradeable.

Standard on the DR44 and DR44G are 50 amp diodes in the bridge rectifier and double wound stators which is the same as in the AD244, however the on the AD244, the bridge rectifier can be easily replaced with one that utilizes much larger rated diodes (up to 70 amps). This makes the AD244 much more versatile and durable from a rebuilding standpoint.

With slight modifications, the 2 pin and 4 pin voltage regulators on these two units can be interchanged with one another. This is more so a mounting modification as there are some slight clearance issues.

In my opinion, it would make more sense to just get the older AD244 units versus the newer DR44 and DR44G units.

However, if you already have a DR44 or DR44G unit and want to be able to use it in your older vehicles that uses the 4 pin connector, it would be much easier to just replace the 4 pin male connector with a newer 2 pin male connecter and wire it appropriately (local scrap yard has plenty of connectors). Check with your local alternator guru for proper wiring. I believe there are some connector adapters/converters available that would be able to accomplish the same as well. This might be easier and cheaper than taking the alternator apart to replace the voltage regulator.

I have no personal experience with this but this is the information that I have been able to find.

B_Rich · 10-30-2009, 06:00 PM

That is awesome information. And one hell of a first post at that lol.

Joker_66599 · 11-12-2009, 04:07 AM

just cause i am kinda slow this is what i need right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-C...fAcc essories batter warning light comes on with head lights and compressors on and very very low like sitting on the red even with the compressors off. when i gas it got up to just about 13ish little less than 14. just seen this the few weeks once we set our clocks back in cali and gets dark now on my drive home. And yes this will be going on a 95 2.2l from the looks of it i just have to go buy a few belts and test fit till i find the one that fits.

B_Rich · 11-12-2009, 12:37 PM

Yeah it looks like that's the one. That's the 130A version, you could go with the 145A version if you wanted? It's up to you.

From my understanding, it takes some custom mounting work to get the AD244 to work on the 2.2L. I've never done it, that's just what colbye said a couple posts above this.

premierdime · 11-13-2009, 12:19 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32

The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm.

Like it or not, this is highly functional, the best $25 mod I've ever done to this truck right here.

My trucks lights do not flicker one bit even with the heater on 4, electric fan on, system going full blast, or the massive air compressor going.

nice

ytsejam · 11-17-2009, 02:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by B_Rich

No problem man, hopefully things turn out how you want them to.

Yeah I've called that "AlternatorMan" myself and he is a GREAT guy to talk to. I asked him about why output is lost at idle when a high output alternator is built. He didn't know the EXACT FOR SURE answer, and he didn't sound like he knew everything (which is a big plus in my book). He also let me talk and explain my entire situation. Don't hesitate to give him a call, he loves what he does and he'd love to talk to ya.

If I were to buy a new H.O. alternator (the RIGHT way) then I wouldn't hesitate to buy from that guy.

Alternators work on EMF principle the larger the surface area to create the magnetic force the less revolutions it needs to create the force, so the AD244 has a larger surface area than the stock so more EMF is being created at lower revolutions and also why the higher output at more revolutions, now the difference between hot and cold readings is due to heat, heat causes expansion which creates more resistance and the air gap between the opposing surfaces are reduced so the EMF kinda reacts against it self. Hope this helps a little

B_Rich · 11-17-2009, 12:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ytsejam

Alternators work on EMF principle the larger the surface area to create the magnetic force the less revolutions it needs to create the force, so the AD244 has a larger surface area than the stock so more EMF is being created at lower revolutions and also why the higher output at more revolutions, now the difference between hot and cold readings is due to heat, heat causes expansion which creates more resistance and the air gap between the opposing surfaces are reduced so the EMF kinda reacts against it self. Hope this helps a little

I hate to sound like a dick, but I've already known those reasons.

All of the readings that I'll be talking about, I'll be referring to output when warm unless stated otherwise.

I realize that an AD244 will put out more AMPERAGE at idle than a CS130D. It's bigger, more powerful, etc. But if I have a stock CS130D, put a bigger stator in it (as in, 160A stator), why does my VOLTAGE drop at idle when it's warm? I realize that it isn't spinning as fast, thus it won't create as much output. But the stock CS130D put out 14.4v at idle (with only 40 or so amps). Why doesn't the "beefed up" CS130D do the same? (14.4v and 40A at idle).

Instead, what I've read and expereienced myself, you'll get 12.8v and 40A at idle, thus causing the entire voltage of your vehicle to drop to 12.8 (obviously). Thus causing your lights to dim and your stereo to become weak.

If you, or anyone, knows why this happens (bad voltage output at idle with the "beefed up" alternator) then I would LOVE to know why. I don't want a "that's just the way it works" answer. If some science and/or math can be put to it and explained why, then you have my respect and appreciation.

I've laid low the past couple of months as to why this happens, since I've got an AD244 now, but I've always wanted to know, and everyone I've asked doesn't have an answer for me. That Mr. Alternator guy was the closest that I've came.

Sorry to blow up here lol. I don't wanna sound like an asshole or anything, just want to clarify my situation and my questions.

mustang347 · 11-20-2009, 02:37 PM

I have a question..and I did read the whole thread...but I have a 91 4.3 Blazer and need the ad244 for my system. I saw the link to the 2 wire plug but was wondering if I could just make a plug (I have the resources)? I just need to know what each wire goes to. Thanks in advance.

Ben

mustang347 · 11-20-2009, 04:07 PM

guess i can't edit...but I just checked my stock alternator and it has a 4 position plug with just 2 wires...will this work on the ad244?

09-04-2009, 10:26 AM	#351
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by 1stGen4.3 Well I suppose I'll throw it on and see what happens. The 125 amp rating is specified at 14 volts so maybe that has something to do with it? No, I really don't think that would matter.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-04-2009, 10:53 PM	#352
neo71665 4x4 v6 blazer Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 5,002 Location: rison arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 14 volts is just what the reg is set at and a alt should never read above that (unless it is indeed a racing 16volt model but thats another ballgame). VVVAll numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.VVV If the alt is being taxed this voltage will drop as the alt heats up and the performance drops. This often happens with the smaller factory alts installed on vehicles with greater than factory loads. Take a s-series for example. The factory alt is rated at 105 amps, just say the stock electrical draw is 103 amps (number out of thin air as I don't remember the exact one). The factory load is less than the alts amp rating but real close to matching it. This means the factory alt is just barely capable of handling the factory load. This is also in ideal conditions and temps. The engine bay with the heat, oil, and water is about one of the worse places any electrical component can be placed. With that being said say the engine bay stays at 100 degrees (fictional figure) the alt de-rates from 105 to exactly 103. You add more electrical load (that nice fancy stereo you always wanted) you jump the load to 120amps. The alt will try to keep up but start over heating and its output gets even worse. As this happens the battery takes up the slack and this is why you see the volts drop. ^^^All numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.^^^ Voltage readings give you somewhat a clue the alt is not big enough but shouldn't be used solely as a testing measure. Truth be known damn near ever alternator out there in an ideal environment with ideal conditions should put out 14.4 volts at any RPM. Last edited by neo71665 : 09-04-2009 at 10:56 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-12-2009, 03:09 PM	#353
JIMMYPITBULL Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 26 Location: FL User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 I'm sure glad I found this forum ,alot of great info from some smart ppl .I look forward to learning some new stuff and sharing some of my tricks.....Have a great day to all of you.........Jimmy
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-26-2009, 09:16 PM	#354
mannyx3 Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 21 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 i was wondering if u put a high output alternator and then you put the performance pulleys with a loud sound system will it make a difference or anything.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-26-2009, 09:28 PM	#355
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 I've heard the performance pullies will potentially decrease your output at idle, but don't quote me on that as I've never done it.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-26-2009, 10:55 PM	#356
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Well I don't know if any of the guys in this thread have ever put a ad244 alternator on a 2.2 s10 before, but I did this today. I got the alternator for $10 at a local junkyard, my buddies dad knows them quite well as he is a mechanic, so they hooked me up. First off will say this is NOT a direct bolt on for the 2.2, there was some major cutting/grinding of the side of the alternator and had to drill the holes out a tad larger to make it fit. I bought a 1" longer belt thinking I would need it. Turns out i grinded it just right, the stock belt fits on great! went right on. Will get more pics of the alternator tomorrow when it is daylight, but i just got this finished,took me a while, cause i wanted it all to look nice and smooth. So far the alternator works GREAT, I am going to drive the truck more tomorrow and will post my results. here are some crappy night sell phone pics just for shits and giggles. It is getting painted tomorrow or the next day, i wire brushed it good tonight. enjoy. compared to the stocker you can see in this pic a little Last edited by colbye32 : 10-26-2009 at 10:57 PM.
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10-26-2009, 11:11 PM	#357
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Very nice dude! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you're the first to get an AD244 on a 2.2L? Awesome job, well done.
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10-26-2009, 11:16 PM	#358
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by B_Rich Very nice dude! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you're the first to get an AD244 on a 2.2L? Awesome job, well done. thats what i was thinking man, i told my brother, i was like dude, im the first one to put a ad244 on a 2.2 s10, hell yea. he was like oh? cool i saw that one on the cavi, but i never saw on on a s10.. Will get more pics tomorrow after its all painted and cleaned up and daylight. thanks man, I will post pics of the grinding/cutting i had to do to make it fit, wasn't much to me, it was so well worth it, best 10 dollars i ever spent on my truck.
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10-26-2009, 11:32 PM	#359
juddspaintballs I pee standing Age: 24 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,097 Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 congrats. the other 2.2 guys will thank you
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10-26-2009, 11:35 PM	#360
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by juddspaintballs congrats. the other 2.2 guys will thank you all i can tell them is be ready to have their grinder ready im going to put a stock 105 amp in the stock ac location tomorrow or the next day= so that will be 250amps of power. that should be enough power to keep my 1200rms going and my massive dc7500 compressor, and my electric fan, and headlights going and then some will post more pics of the install tomorrow
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2009, 01:11 AM	#361
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32 all i can tell them is be ready to have their grinder ready im going to put a stock 105 amp in the stock ac location tomorrow or the next day= so that will be 250amps of power. that should be enough power to keep my 1200rms going and my massive dc7500 compressor, and my electric fan, and headlights going and then some will post more pics of the install tomorrow Post up how you tie together the wiring harnesses too. Good luck man, this is awesome lol.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2009, 03:28 PM	#362
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Well guys, as promised,the dual alternator mod is complete. I am running 1 ad244 large case in the stock location, and 1 cs130d in the stock ac compressor location. Turns out one of the bolts was a direct line up, just needed a nut on the back, i did have to grind say 1/4" from the housing on the right side of the cs130d, that made that side of the alternator pulley line up with the rest of the accessories, made a small custom bracket out of some 1/4" stock, and drilled 2 holes in it, and mounted that up. Got a belt from part store for 14.99. Had a 4 pin connector already here at the house, along with the wiring for the alternator. For right now, i am running 8 guage wiring from the cs130d to my distribution block. the ad244 has 0 guage wiring from the back of the alternator to 1ft in front of it to the dist block. Truck runs great, no lag or anything, I get 14.4-14.5 volts at idle cold or warm - and a constant 14.4v all the way through the rpm range. On the 4-5pin connector whatever it is, there is 1 red wire, i cut it and soldered another wire to that wire, and ran it over to the other alternator, and had a 4-5pin connector laying here, just a standard 1 wire one, soldered it on there, and heat shrinked it, easy as pie. enough the talk, onto the pics.
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10-27-2009, 04:51 PM	#363
evanspears1 what? Age: 20 Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 368 Location: Prestonsburg, Ky User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 WOOT WOOT, im glad someone actually tried this!! I dont guess you took any pics of how you had to mod the AD244 to make it work did you?
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10-27-2009, 04:55 PM	#364
neo71665 4x4 v6 blazer Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 5,002 Location: rison arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Its all cool but one thing I don't understand. If you were gonna add the factory one back to it why even move it? Why didn't you make one custom bracket and just add the AD244 to where the AC was? I can understand if it was for height clearances or what not but it looks like you had the room and just done double the work. Very cool still, good to see more of us running 2 alts. I've got my 2nd one removed right now but I put it down where the AIR pump is on a 1st gen. Right under the factory one so unless you know what you are looking at my bay still looks somewhat stock, lmao
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2009, 05:24 PM	#365
pro-rabbit Registered User Age: 27 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 405 Location: Missouri User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Just an FYI for everyone...There was a link to Nations Starter and Alts...DO NOT BUY FROM THEM...They are a local company and their workmanship is horrible. Many of our customers went to them for custom alts, and not a one lasted over a few months. Then they made up BS reasons not to warranty them.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2009, 07:52 PM	#366
colbye32 Laying hard on zq8s! Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,699 Location: Conyers Ga User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665 Its all cool but one thing I don't understand. If you were gonna add the factory one back to it why even move it? Why didn't you make one custom bracket and just add the AD244 to where the AC was? I can understand if it was for height clearances or what not but it looks like you had the room and just done double the work. Very cool still, good to see more of us running 2 alts. I've got my 2nd one removed right now but I put it down where the AIR pump is on a 1st gen. Right under the factory one so unless you know what you are looking at my bay still looks somewhat stock, lmao The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm. Like it or not, this is highly functional, the best $25 mod I've ever done to this truck right here. My trucks lights do not flicker one bit even with the heater on 4, electric fan on, system going full blast, or the massive air compressor going.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2009, 08:12 PM	#367
neo71665 4x4 v6 blazer Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 5,002 Location: rison arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32 The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm. Cool, makes sense now
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10-30-2009, 01:16 PM	#368
cichlid_baby Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 1 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 From what I have been told and been able to research.... Regarding to the DR44 and DR44G alternators more commonly found on the newer GM trucks, besides having the two pin regulator connector.. another major difference with this unit compared the the AD244 alternators is that on the DR44 and DR44G the bridge rectifier is embedded and fused into the rear casing to form one single part where as on the AD244 the bridge rectifier is completely removable and upgradeable. Standard on the DR44 and DR44G are 50 amp diodes in the bridge rectifier and double wound stators which is the same as in the AD244, however the on the AD244, the bridge rectifier can be easily replaced with one that utilizes much larger rated diodes (up to 70 amps). This makes the AD244 much more versatile and durable from a rebuilding standpoint. With slight modifications, the 2 pin and 4 pin voltage regulators on these two units can be interchanged with one another. This is more so a mounting modification as there are some slight clearance issues. In my opinion, it would make more sense to just get the older AD244 units versus the newer DR44 and DR44G units. However, if you already have a DR44 or DR44G unit and want to be able to use it in your older vehicles that uses the 4 pin connector, it would be much easier to just replace the 4 pin male connector with a newer 2 pin male connecter and wire it appropriately (local scrap yard has plenty of connectors). Check with your local alternator guru for proper wiring. I believe there are some connector adapters/converters available that would be able to accomplish the same as well. This might be easier and cheaper than taking the alternator apart to replace the voltage regulator. I have no personal experience with this but this is the information that I have been able to find.
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10-30-2009, 06:00 PM	#369
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 That is awesome information. And one hell of a first post at that lol.
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11-12-2009, 04:07 AM	#370
Joker_66599 Robert Age: 25 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 361 Location: Orange User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 just cause i am kinda slow this is what i need right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-C...fAcc essories batter warning light comes on with head lights and compressors on and very very low like sitting on the red even with the compressors off. when i gas it got up to just about 13ish little less than 14. just seen this the few weeks once we set our clocks back in cali and gets dark now on my drive home. And yes this will be going on a 95 2.2l from the looks of it i just have to go buy a few belts and test fit till i find the one that fits.
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11-12-2009, 12:37 PM	#371
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Yeah it looks like that's the one. That's the 130A version, you could go with the 145A version if you wanted? It's up to you. From my understanding, it takes some custom mounting work to get the AD244 to work on the 2.2L. I've never done it, that's just what colbye said a couple posts above this.
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11-13-2009, 12:19 AM	#372
premierdime Registered User Age: 17 Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 49 Location: Riverdale (fresno county) CA User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by colbye32 The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm. Like it or not, this is highly functional, the best $25 mod I've ever done to this truck right here. My trucks lights do not flicker one bit even with the heater on 4, electric fan on, system going full blast, or the massive air compressor going. nice Last edited by premierdime : 11-13-2009 at 12:21 AM.
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11-17-2009, 02:39 AM	#373
ytsejam Registered User Age: 38 Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 3 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by B_Rich No problem man, hopefully things turn out how you want them to. Yeah I've called that "AlternatorMan" myself and he is a GREAT guy to talk to. I asked him about why output is lost at idle when a high output alternator is built. He didn't know the EXACT FOR SURE answer, and he didn't sound like he knew everything (which is a big plus in my book). He also let me talk and explain my entire situation. Don't hesitate to give him a call, he loves what he does and he'd love to talk to ya. If I were to buy a new H.O. alternator (the RIGHT way) then I wouldn't hesitate to buy from that guy. Alternators work on EMF principle the larger the surface area to create the magnetic force the less revolutions it needs to create the force, so the AD244 has a larger surface area than the stock so more EMF is being created at lower revolutions and also why the higher output at more revolutions, now the difference between hot and cold readings is due to heat, heat causes expansion which creates more resistance and the air gap between the opposing surfaces are reduced so the EMF kinda reacts against it self. Hope this helps a little
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11-17-2009, 12:11 PM	#374
B_Rich Zr2USA = B_Rich Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1,611 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 Quote: Originally Posted by ytsejam Alternators work on EMF principle the larger the surface area to create the magnetic force the less revolutions it needs to create the force, so the AD244 has a larger surface area than the stock so more EMF is being created at lower revolutions and also why the higher output at more revolutions, now the difference between hot and cold readings is due to heat, heat causes expansion which creates more resistance and the air gap between the opposing surfaces are reduced so the EMF kinda reacts against it self. Hope this helps a little I hate to sound like a dick, but I've already known those reasons. All of the readings that I'll be talking about, I'll be referring to output when warm unless stated otherwise. I realize that an AD244 will put out more AMPERAGE at idle than a CS130D. It's bigger, more powerful, etc. But if I have a stock CS130D, put a bigger stator in it (as in, 160A stator), why does my VOLTAGE drop at idle when it's warm? I realize that it isn't spinning as fast, thus it won't create as much output. But the stock CS130D put out 14.4v at idle (with only 40 or so amps). Why doesn't the "beefed up" CS130D do the same? (14.4v and 40A at idle). Instead, what I've read and expereienced myself, you'll get 12.8v and 40A at idle, thus causing the entire voltage of your vehicle to drop to 12.8 (obviously). Thus causing your lights to dim and your stereo to become weak. If you, or anyone, knows why this happens (bad voltage output at idle with the "beefed up" alternator) then I would LOVE to know why. I don't want a "that's just the way it works" answer. If some science and/or math can be put to it and explained why, then you have my respect and appreciation. I've laid low the past couple of months as to why this happens, since I've got an AD244 now, but I've always wanted to know, and everyone I've asked doesn't have an answer for me. That Mr. Alternator guy was the closest that I've came. Sorry to blow up here lol. I don't wanna sound like an asshole or anything, just want to clarify my situation and my questions.
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11-20-2009, 02:37 PM	#375
mustang347 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 23 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 I have a question..and I did read the whole thread...but I have a 91 4.3 Blazer and need the ad244 for my system. I saw the link to the 2 wire plug but was wondering if I could just make a plug (I have the resources)? I just need to know what each wire goes to. Thanks in advance. Ben
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11-20-2009, 04:07 PM	#376
mustang347 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 23 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 guess i can't edit...but I just checked my stock alternator and it has a 4 position plug with just 2 wires...will this work on the ad244?
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