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Old 10-02-2007, 10:07 AM   #51
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Re: Grounds

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad
obviously you have never used the proper tool!it's faster/easier/and the clips NEVER go for the wild ride
Ok, you said door handle, so I assumed you meant door handles; however, a door handle clip never goes for a wild ride. That must mean you are talking about window cranks instead of door handles, and yes..... I have a window crank tool
Old 10-02-2007, 10:42 AM   #52
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Re: Grounds

Quote: Originally Posted by Futuresweets10
Ok, you said door handle, so I assumed you meant door handles; however, a door handle clip never goes for a wild ride. That must mean you are talking about window cranks instead of door handles, and yes..... I have a window crank tool
yes i meant window cranks.......i guess i said door handles because i just did a honda odyssey....the sliding door handles have the same kind of retainer as window cranks.....so yes....the door handle clips can go for a ride

you gotta try harder to get me on a technicality

(and just FYI...my clip tool was at home so i used a hook tool to release the clip and it went for a ride......it sprung out the backside.....hit the backside of the door jamb and bounced back in my lap!)
Old 10-02-2007, 10:50 AM   #53
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Re: Grounds

i have a pencil solderer, but everytime i use it i burn the hell out of something. my leg, hand, where ever the solder drips.... etc.... lol

so that is why i want a cold soldering iron, a cold soldering iron heats up super quick when you want it too, and cools off even quicker so you can't burn your self on the tip when you are not soldering

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/cold-soldering.htm
Old 10-02-2007, 10:54 AM   #54
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Re: Grounds

Quote: Originally Posted by bladehines
i have a pencil solderer, but everytime i use it i burn the hell out of something. my leg, hand, where ever the solder drips.... etc.... lol

so that is why i want a cold soldering iron, a cold soldering iron heats up super quick when you want it too, and cools off even quicker so you can't burn your self on the tip when you are not soldering

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/cold-soldering.htm
i think you better stick to crimping
Old 10-02-2007, 11:07 AM   #55
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Re: Grounds

since the cold soldering is brought up. does that work better than the usual soldering i do with my iron?
ive heard the radioshack's cold soldering thingy sucks ass
Old 10-02-2007, 08:39 PM   #56
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Re: Grounds

i have that coldheat soldering iron. SUCKS ASS! wouldn't melt the smallest solder radio shack sells on a 18awg wire. i don't even know where that piece of shit is. its no where around my soldering gear though.
Old 10-07-2007, 08:02 PM   #57
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Re: Grounds

Tried to use one of those cold heat soldering things myself. Boss bought one at work to have me use instead of a reg iron, and I couldnt get the solder to melt, let alone get the wire to the inner part of the tip where its actually hot all the time either. Those things suck ass unless youre working with 30 ga wire and solder just as small and shitty.
Old 10-08-2007, 10:23 PM   #58
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Re: Grounds

to get a good ground u should go to ur frame right? could u ground to ur cab(inside) and then on the bottom side of the cab(outside) ground to ur frame/chassis? or would it not be worth the effort to ground the cab to the frame/chassis?
Old 10-09-2007, 02:21 AM   #59
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Re: Grounds

you could do that and it would work. but its still better to go straight to the frame. why interrupt high conductive copper wire with a 1/16" steel plate and a crappy bolt. it just makes a choke point is all i'm saying.
Old 12-15-2007, 03:03 PM   #60
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Re: Grounds

Just one of them random things i've heard and i'm not wanting to start anything but the only semi-valid point I have ever seen to not relying on solder only is that some solders the electrical conduction properties are not as good as the copper wire and copper terminals. Now there are some solders out there that are great but other cheaper solders well we know they suck. I mean the difference is minuscule but the point is valid none the less.

Oh yeah i know i brought up and old thread but ahh poop happens.
Old 02-17-2008, 02:06 AM   #61
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Re: Grounds

Quote: Originally Posted by futuredragger
Just one of them random things i've heard and i'm not wanting to start anything but the only semi-valid point I have ever seen to not relying on solder only is that some solders the electrical conduction properties are not as good as the copper wire and copper terminals. Now there are some solders out there that are great but other cheaper solders well we know they suck. I mean the difference is minuscule but the point is valid none the less.

Oh yeah i know i brought up and old thread but ahh poop happens.

Yawn, yes its true lead doesn't allow the exchange of electrons as easy as copper but the difference is so small you'll never notice it. I can see if I can find some numbers for you if you want to split hairs but I'd rather not have to look through my electrical books for it.
Old 02-17-2008, 02:38 AM   #62
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Re: Grounds

Quote: Originally Posted by juddspaintballs
you could do that and it would work. but its still better to go straight to the frame. why interrupt high conductive copper wire with a 1/16" steel plate and a crappy bolt. it just makes a choke point is all i'm saying.
i have been like that for awhile.......
Old 06-19-2008, 05:32 AM   #63
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Re: Grounds

Damn, so what kind of equipment do you guys use? I do a lot of soldering over here but it's always what's on hand...I'd like to get myself some good quality stuff,

What do ya'll use for
Solder:
Flux:
Rosin:
Gun/pencil/iron, etc
Anything else:
Old 06-19-2008, 03:55 PM   #64
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Re: Grounds

i use rosin core solder and either a pencil iron or a propane torch depending on what i am soldering
Old 06-09-2009, 07:44 PM   #65
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Re: Grounds

A good cleaning makes a difference, even with rosin. Crimp first is a crutch for poor job. Pencil tip torch is nice for the big stuff that you can pull out. Quicker heating means less time for it to soak back and melt insulation, if any. Common electronics solder is tin/lead mix but you can get lead free (mostly tin) like plumbing solder.
Old 06-09-2009, 08:17 PM   #66
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Re: Grounds

holy thread digging batman!
Old 06-11-2009, 10:56 AM   #67
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Re: Grounds

Oh, didn't notice. "And you may ask yourself-well...how did I get here?" I just did. "My god!...what have I done?"
Old 09-25-2009, 12:53 AM   #68
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Re: Grounds

is there any easy way (with no special tools) to crimp a 1/0 wire? or should i just find someone to solder them? gonna do the big 3 soon and dont want any problems with it.
Old 09-25-2009, 09:38 PM   #69
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Re: Grounds

Visegrip, or hammer & cold chisel or flat blade screw driver could be used to dent in length wise, so that you can fold the sides tighter. Or center punch or phillips head to dimple it in, in the middle. Doing it in an angle (L) or grove (cut in wood block or such) will help to keep it from just flattening. Sealing it (silicone or grease) will help it last in the weather. A good soldering job makes solid connection that strong, & resists weather/movement.
Old 09-25-2009, 10:58 PM   #70
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Re: Grounds

i ran a 4ga from my starting batt to the alt bracket then to the firewall then to the left side of the frame. in the back a 4ga goes from the left side of the frame to the system batt then to a split bolt junction from the junction to the right side of frame, the amp grounds go to the junction also
Old 09-27-2009, 06:54 PM   #71
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Re: Grounds

I use a propane torch for large wires and a weller gun for smaller. Couldnt be happier. I had a iron at some point, but I ALWAYS burned myself, then Id get pissed. Not to mention my gun heats up in 10 seconds, and the iron takes 15 minutes to get to temp.

I saw someone tow a car with a soldered 1/0 one time, was neat.



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