Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS!

danssoslow · 08-22-2008, 12:19 AM

I will work on getting some up when I do the drivers side.

Untill then, I will outline how I went about building a sturdy baffle for the MLI's I'm putting in my doors.

I started by trying to mount the MLI's in the doors to get an idea of the fitment of the speakers. Aside from the baffle being to small, I had to space out the window track out about an inch using 1/4" fender washers. There was also a need to cut a bit of the door's sheetmetal from the 10 'o clock position to the 2 'o clock position for magnet clearance. A 1/2" was taken from this area.

The new baffle consists of two basic pieces; the baffle (speaker ring) and the base (door mount).
I first tried to cut a base out of 3/4" MDF, using the stock speaker pod as a template. The problem with the MDF is that it is stiff, and the base has to have some dips in it to meet up flush with the door all the way around.
The MDF would give when bolted down with 1/4-20's in the four holes originally used for the rivets on the stock pod, and would sit flush all around; but would straighten right back up when unbolted. This wouldn't work, as I would have to remove the assembly in later fill in the gap, and the MDF straightening out would cause the alignment of the speaker ring to be off when filling the gap permanently.

My solution was to use three layers of 1/4" plywood. I cut three pieces in the shape of the base (actually bigger, more on that in a second); spread a liberal amount of glue between them; and bolted it down on the door. After work the next day, the laminate was hard and molded into the contours of the door.
Now about the shape of the baffle. If you trace the outline of the stock plastic pod, you'll notice that the side toward the rear of the door will be extremely thin, and fairly thin throughout the rest of the base if you were to cut the center out as outlined by the stock pod.
I fixed this by using four fender washers, layed over the four holes that mount the base. Tracing around them would set up the four corners of the new baffle. Loosely following the original outline, I connected the four corners; drawing the lines as straight as possible and adding as much thickness as I thought would work without interfering with the fitment with the door. I then traced out the center hole, leaving at least 3/4" thickness across the arch at the top and the flatter piece at the bottom. the sides of the hole were basically brought straight down, as this would give the base more meat, and wouldn't interfere with the speaker at all.

I'm going to attempt to use my scanner to put up an outline of both bases, so that you can get a visual of what I have done. I will also leave a 1" witness mark next to the "modified", so you all can use it as a template if you so desire.

The baffle was simple. I used the grill supplied with the speaker to make the ring.

Tomorrow I will outline how I positioned the baffle, mounted it to the base, and filled in the gap. I have to take my tired ass to bed.

juddspaintballs · 08-22-2008, 12:50 AM

did you cut the door grills out?

Heathd · 08-22-2008, 12:51 PM

The best part of this thread is the no pics part.

danssoslow · 08-22-2008, 06:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Heathd

The best part of this thread is the no pics part.

Everything looks perfect that way. Thanks for the kind and encouraging words.

Judds, yes I did.
As a mater of fact,that is part of how I was able to determine the positioning of the baffle to the base. After cutting the grill out, I glued the MLI's grill shell to the door. I then bolted the baffle to the backside of the grill shell. After mounting the base to the door and setting the door panel back onto the door with the baffle mounted, I was able to staple spandex from the baffle to the base and apply some resin.

After letting it set until I got home the next day, I unbolted the door panel from the baffle, pulled the panel, and was able to unmount the base and baffle in preparation to fill in the gap.

I mixed up a 1/2 pint of Dyna-Hair and filled the space in between the baffle and the base from the outside. The spandex prevented the Dyna-Hair from falling into the center. The piece is solid now; but tonight I'm going to use some 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum bar to hard mount the the baffle to the base from the outside, just to make sure it doesn't separate from vibration in the future. I'll cover the whole deal outside and in with some resin to waterproof it, then mount the aluminum straps.

danssoslow · 08-22-2008, 06:53 PM

I'll get pics of the state it is in, with the kitty hair in place, bolted to the door, tonight for you guys.

***orangesonoma*** · 08-22-2008, 07:39 PM

hurry up

PandaS10 · 08-22-2008, 11:42 PM

holy shit!!! dan has a build thread.....call everyone!!!!!! seriously though i look forward to the pics and this sounds like a nice build...

danssoslow · 08-23-2008, 02:49 AM

Well guys. I guess it goes without saying, but I will explain.

I was planning on using my cousin's camera to take the pics and load them up; but I spent all night changing fixtures out in his house. I just walked through the door. I plan to go back tomorrow and finish up the last two lights and a paddle fan. After that I'll take the pics.

Be forewarned, this isn't the prettiest project you'll ever see; but I assure you that the pod will be solid and work out great. Besides, the door panel will cover it up anyways. Form will definitely follow function on this one; and should be easy enough to do, as I'm green at this type of fabrication and it seems to be working out quite well.
In the end I'll be curious as to what the seasoned vets think and what they might be able to add so that everyone else will be able to build even better pods in the future.

Off to bed again, and the pics WILL come tomorrow!

danssoslow · 08-23-2008, 04:05 PM

Here's the base pattern if you guys can use to make cut outs. The dotted line in the pic is the pattern that I cut out. The solid round line is the line I'll cut for the drivers side.
You'll see on the left side that there is bit more material that is left on the base. The reason for this is because the outer edge of the baffle only overlaps the base by about an 1/8". Cutting on the new line should allow for more solid structure below that section of the baffle. The way it is now, the kitty hair does build up to it; but it is basically suspended, which I feel could be stronger yet by cutting the base the new way. The witness mark that is there should line up directly with the hash marks on your tape measurer. Just connect the missing parts of the outline by rounding the line over.

***paint toad*** · 08-23-2008, 04:17 PM

this thread sucks

danssoslow · 08-23-2008, 06:54 PM

I'm broke and have no camera. Bumming sucks.

***paint toad*** · 08-23-2008, 08:25 PM

i got an old shitty digi camera you can have.....

danssoslow · 08-24-2008, 12:34 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad

i got an old shitty digi camera you can have.....

Man, I do appreciate it; but I owe you back already. Thanks a whole bunch!

And without further adooo....

First, here are 3 general pics of the pod, just resined up this afternoon:

danssoslow · 08-24-2008, 12:38 AM

Next up are two pics with the speaker installed. Notice the third pic above and the backside pic below. Notice how the base's hole is quite a bit bigger than the baffle, and with the speaker in you can see that the large hole in the base isn't necessary.:

It is that right hand side where the baffle overlaps the base by only 1/8".

danssoslow · 08-24-2008, 12:43 AM

Here are a couple of pics of the three laminates for the driver's side base. You'll notice the much smaller center hole. It could actually be a bit smaller; but I'm happy with what I have.The last two show a comparison to the passenger side pod:

I used a Rotozip to make the cuts. After they are glued up, bolted, and set up for a day; I will sand all three layers to a uniform shape. Now let me know what you guys think. Ways to make it better (easier

), etc, constructive criticism is most welcome!

PandaS10 · 08-24-2008, 12:54 AM

you should seal up the back to get some amazing response or something. like make it a sealed enclosure. do you think that would hold any real benifet?

danssoslow · 08-24-2008, 01:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97dimedrop

you should seal up the back to get some amazing response or something. like make it a sealed enclosure. do you think that would hold any real benifet?

Going IB in the door is going to help extend the low frequency response; which is what I'm after using these as midbass. I'll give covering the back hole a shot when I get to tuning the system just to see what happens. Good idea.

Black96LT · 08-24-2008, 01:38 AM

Looks good.

Your doing it about the same way I did mine the other month. Only I didnt cut out the stock grill cover. I made mine the same thickness as the stock plastic piece of junk and it's all behind the door panel. Just actually got the amp hooked up today for the front doors speakers and tweeters. Sounded pretty good....

juddspaintballs · 08-24-2008, 01:38 AM

looks like shit. that's perfect. perhaps i'll do something similar

danssoslow · 08-24-2008, 01:51 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Black96LT

Looks good.

Your doing it about the same way I did mine the other month. Only I didnt cut out the stock grill cover. I made mine the same thickness as the stock plastic piece of junk and it's all behind the door panel. Just actually got the amp hooked up today for the front doors speakers and tweeters. Sounded pretty good....

I have the other MLI mounted to the stock pod in the driver's door now with the supplied grill attached. From the looks of how shallow the top most edge is to the door panel itself, I believe I could have left the stock grill in place. The finish product will have even more depth, to the point that the other end of the grill shell (the side that butt up with the baffle) is actually even with the end of the door panel. This extra depth will be in preperation for a set of Peerless SLS 6.5" speakers if the MLI's don't work out. An extra 5/8" will be needed over the MLI's.

Jed (love it

) I warned that it would be hideous looking. This is also my basic tactic with women. "I may be ugly, but..."
It does seem rahter strong without any extra bracing. Anyone disagree that the pod will hold up without any hard bracing?

***paint toad*** · 08-24-2008, 12:36 PM

looks good....i still need to make a pair.....

don't seal the backside....your midbass will suffer drastically....i tried it using the stock baffles awhile back...

PandaS10 · 08-24-2008, 11:49 PM

note to self....don't seal mdf door pods.... check.

08-22-2008, 12:19 AM	#1
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! I will work on getting some up when I do the drivers side. Untill then, I will outline how I went about building a sturdy baffle for the MLI's I'm putting in my doors. I started by trying to mount the MLI's in the doors to get an idea of the fitment of the speakers. Aside from the baffle being to small, I had to space out the window track out about an inch using 1/4" fender washers. There was also a need to cut a bit of the door's sheetmetal from the 10 'o clock position to the 2 'o clock position for magnet clearance. A 1/2" was taken from this area. The new baffle consists of two basic pieces; the baffle (speaker ring) and the base (door mount). I first tried to cut a base out of 3/4" MDF, using the stock speaker pod as a template. The problem with the MDF is that it is stiff, and the base has to have some dips in it to meet up flush with the door all the way around. The MDF would give when bolted down with 1/4-20's in the four holes originally used for the rivets on the stock pod, and would sit flush all around; but would straighten right back up when unbolted. This wouldn't work, as I would have to remove the assembly in later fill in the gap, and the MDF straightening out would cause the alignment of the speaker ring to be off when filling the gap permanently. My solution was to use three layers of 1/4" plywood. I cut three pieces in the shape of the base (actually bigger, more on that in a second); spread a liberal amount of glue between them; and bolted it down on the door. After work the next day, the laminate was hard and molded into the contours of the door. Now about the shape of the baffle. If you trace the outline of the stock plastic pod, you'll notice that the side toward the rear of the door will be extremely thin, and fairly thin throughout the rest of the base if you were to cut the center out as outlined by the stock pod. I fixed this by using four fender washers, layed over the four holes that mount the base. Tracing around them would set up the four corners of the new baffle. Loosely following the original outline, I connected the four corners; drawing the lines as straight as possible and adding as much thickness as I thought would work without interfering with the fitment with the door. I then traced out the center hole, leaving at least 3/4" thickness across the arch at the top and the flatter piece at the bottom. the sides of the hole were basically brought straight down, as this would give the base more meat, and wouldn't interfere with the speaker at all. I'm going to attempt to use my scanner to put up an outline of both bases, so that you can get a visual of what I have done. I will also leave a 1" witness mark next to the "modified", so you all can use it as a template if you so desire. The baffle was simple. I used the grill supplied with the speaker to make the ring. Tomorrow I will outline how I positioned the baffle, mounted it to the base, and filled in the gap. I have to take my tired ass to bed.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 12:50 AM	#2
juddspaintballs JED Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 5,837 Location: Reisterstown, MD User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! did you cut the door grills out?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 12:51 PM	#3
Heathd They took our jorbs. Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 3,710 Location: CAD Lab User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! The best part of this thread is the no pics part.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 06:03 PM	#4
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Quote: Originally Posted by Heathd The best part of this thread is the no pics part. Everything looks perfect that way. Thanks for the kind and encouraging words. Judds, yes I did. As a mater of fact,that is part of how I was able to determine the positioning of the baffle to the base. After cutting the grill out, I glued the MLI's grill shell to the door. I then bolted the baffle to the backside of the grill shell. After mounting the base to the door and setting the door panel back onto the door with the baffle mounted, I was able to staple spandex from the baffle to the base and apply some resin. After letting it set until I got home the next day, I unbolted the door panel from the baffle, pulled the panel, and was able to unmount the base and baffle in preparation to fill in the gap. I mixed up a 1/2 pint of Dyna-Hair and filled the space in between the baffle and the base from the outside. The spandex prevented the Dyna-Hair from falling into the center. The piece is solid now; but tonight I'm going to use some 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum bar to hard mount the the baffle to the base from the outside, just to make sure it doesn't separate from vibration in the future. I'll cover the whole deal outside and in with some resin to waterproof it, then mount the aluminum straps.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 06:53 PM	#5
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! I'll get pics of the state it is in, with the kitty hair in place, bolted to the door, tonight for you guys.
	[Reply w/Quote]


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08-22-2008, 07:39 PM	#6
*orangesonoma* registered s10 sex offender Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 37,742 Location: Indian Trail, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! hurry up
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 11:42 PM	#7
PandaS10 Panda s10 driving mofo. Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,582 Location: Birmingham/Anniston Al. User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! holy shit!!! dan has a build thread.....call everyone!!!!!! seriously though i look forward to the pics and this sounds like a nice build...
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-23-2008, 02:49 AM	#8
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Well guys. I guess it goes without saying, but I will explain. I was planning on using my cousin's camera to take the pics and load them up; but I spent all night changing fixtures out in his house. I just walked through the door. I plan to go back tomorrow and finish up the last two lights and a paddle fan. After that I'll take the pics. Be forewarned, this isn't the prettiest project you'll ever see; but I assure you that the pod will be solid and work out great. Besides, the door panel will cover it up anyways. Form will definitely follow function on this one; and should be easy enough to do, as I'm green at this type of fabrication and it seems to be working out quite well. In the end I'll be curious as to what the seasoned vets think and what they might be able to add so that everyone else will be able to build even better pods in the future. Off to bed again, and the pics WILL come tomorrow!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-23-2008, 04:05 PM	#9
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Here's the base pattern if you guys can use to make cut outs. The dotted line in the pic is the pattern that I cut out. The solid round line is the line I'll cut for the drivers side. You'll see on the left side that there is bit more material that is left on the base. The reason for this is because the outer edge of the baffle only overlaps the base by about an 1/8". Cutting on the new line should allow for more solid structure below that section of the baffle. The way it is now, the kitty hair does build up to it; but it is basically suspended, which I feel could be stronger yet by cutting the base the new way. The witness mark that is there should line up directly with the hash marks on your tape measurer. Just connect the missing parts of the outline by rounding the line over.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-23-2008, 04:17 PM	#10
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,998 Location: morton il User is: Online	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! this thread sucks
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-23-2008, 06:54 PM	#11
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! I'm broke and have no camera. Bumming sucks.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-23-2008, 08:25 PM	#12
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,998 Location: morton il User is: Online	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! i got an old shitty digi camera you can have.....
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 12:34 AM	#13
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Quote: Originally Posted by paint toad i got an old shitty digi camera you can have..... Man, I do appreciate it; but I owe you back already. Thanks a whole bunch! And without further adooo.... First, here are 3 general pics of the pod, just resined up this afternoon:
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 12:38 AM	#14
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Next up are two pics with the speaker installed. Notice the third pic above and the backside pic below. Notice how the base's hole is quite a bit bigger than the baffle, and with the speaker in you can see that the large hole in the base isn't necessary.: It is that right hand side where the baffle overlaps the base by only 1/8".
	[Reply w/Quote]

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08-24-2008, 12:43 AM	#15
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Here are a couple of pics of the three laminates for the driver's side base. You'll notice the much smaller center hole. It could actually be a bit smaller; but I'm happy with what I have.The last two show a comparison to the passenger side pod: I used a Rotozip to make the cuts. After they are glued up, bolted, and set up for a day; I will sand all three layers to a uniform shape. Now let me know what you guys think. Ways to make it better (easier ), etc, constructive criticism is most welcome! Last edited by danssoslow : 08-24-2008 at 12:48 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 12:54 AM	#16
PandaS10 Panda s10 driving mofo. Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,582 Location: Birmingham/Anniston Al. User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! you should seal up the back to get some amazing response or something. like make it a sealed enclosure. do you think that would hold any real benifet?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 01:23 AM	#17
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Quote: Originally Posted by 97dimedrop you should seal up the back to get some amazing response or something. like make it a sealed enclosure. do you think that would hold any real benifet? Going IB in the door is going to help extend the low frequency response; which is what I'm after using these as midbass. I'll give covering the back hole a shot when I get to tuning the system just to see what happens. Good idea.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 01:38 AM	#18
Black96LT Registered User Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 37 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Looks good. Your doing it about the same way I did mine the other month. Only I didnt cut out the stock grill cover. I made mine the same thickness as the stock plastic piece of junk and it's all behind the door panel. Just actually got the amp hooked up today for the front doors speakers and tweeters. Sounded pretty good....
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 01:51 AM	#20
danssoslow Registered User Age: 33 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 472 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! Quote: Originally Posted by Black96LT Looks good. Your doing it about the same way I did mine the other month. Only I didnt cut out the stock grill cover. I made mine the same thickness as the stock plastic piece of junk and it's all behind the door panel. Just actually got the amp hooked up today for the front doors speakers and tweeters. Sounded pretty good.... I have the other MLI mounted to the stock pod in the driver's door now with the supplied grill attached. From the looks of how shallow the top most edge is to the door panel itself, I believe I could have left the stock grill in place. The finish product will have even more depth, to the point that the other end of the grill shell (the side that butt up with the baffle) is actually even with the end of the door panel. This extra depth will be in preperation for a set of Peerless SLS 6.5" speakers if the MLI's don't work out. An extra 5/8" will be needed over the MLI's. Jed (love it ) I warned that it would be hideous looking. This is also my basic tactic with women. "I may be ugly, but..." It does seem rahter strong without any extra bracing. Anyone disagree that the pod will hold up without any hard bracing?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 12:36 PM	#21
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,998 Location: morton il User is: Online	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! looks good....i still need to make a pair..... don't seal the backside....your midbass will suffer drastically....i tried it using the stock baffles awhile back...
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2008, 11:49 PM	#22
PandaS10 Panda s10 driving mofo. Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,582 Location: Birmingham/Anniston Al. User is: OffLine	Re: Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS! note to self....don't seal mdf door pods.... check.
	[Reply w/Quote]

Door pod build. *NOW WITHOUT PICS!*

Door pod build. NOW WITHOUT PICS!