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#51 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 315
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
does anyone have pictures for the 2.2L?
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#52 |
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drunk and bored
Age: 40
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 28,503
Location: galesburg(or morton), il User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#53 |
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Registered User
Age: 22
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 648
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
lol..nice
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#54 |
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I Need $
Age: 19
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,096
Location: Miami User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#55 |
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I Need $
Age: 19
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,096
Location: Miami User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#56 |
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drunk and bored
Age: 40
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 28,503
Location: galesburg(or morton), il User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#57 |
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The Super Clean Blazer!
Age: 34
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 888
Location: FL User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Just to put in my own 2 cents...
Other than my very first vehicle, a '91 Ford Ranger and my current '02 Blazer, all of my other vehicles have been unibody construction. Since they do not have frames, you had no choice but to ground to the body. I used to make a solid grounding point to the stock ground location in the engine bay. I suppose most car manufacturers use the typical flat and bare braided ground cable from somewhere on the engine block to somewhere on the firewall or fender(s). I would just add my own 4awg straight to that point from the battery and engine block. If I were to ever do an install in my Blazer, I would still do it this way as I did in my Ranger and the rest of my vehicles. Since you are making a solid ground out of the body, there's no reason why you have to go cutting and drilling holes through the body of the truck to get to the frame to make your ground. I hate altering a vehicle in such a way that it is irreversible. For this reason, I have NEVER drilled a single hole in ANY of my vehicles over the years for any of the systems that I've installed. Even for the subwoofer enclosures and amp racks, I design them in such a way that they fit perfectly by friction alone. They are "locked in" so to speak, flowing with the lines of the interior of the vehicle. This makes for a very tight, perfect fit without having extra holes punched throughout the body of the vehicle. Also, if you ever decide to sell, you can remove everything and the car is back to its original state. Think about it this way as well. Since 99% of all the electronics in any car/truck/SUV are grounded straight to the body, why not put all of your efforts into properly grounding the body. This way, it improves ALL of the electronics in your vehicle (OEM and aftermarket), not just your stereo or compressors or extra lights. Again, just my 2 cents. ![]() Last edited by BlazerChops : 09-12-2008 at 04:44 PM. |
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#58 |
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Registered User
Age: 24
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,713
Location: good ol'north jerz User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
im about to do this im jsut wondering should i put a fuse between the alt and pos. or just wire??? to fuse or not to fuse opinions wanted....
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#59 |
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AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers
Age: 22
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,231
Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Most people don't but you can. It wont hurt anything.
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#60 |
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Registered User
Age: 24
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,713
Location: good ol'north jerz User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
ive heard that the alt can surge an its good to have a fuse there to take the juice instead of the batt overloading
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#61 |
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AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers
Age: 22
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,231
Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Um a battery is a good shock absorber for spikes. As long as you don't sit over 16v for long periods of time you will be ok. The Alt has a voltage regulator that controls the charging rate.
someone correct me if im wrong... Last edited by David12460 : 09-16-2008 at 09:41 PM. |
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#62 |
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workin it !
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 11,022
Location: Sacramento,Ca. User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
correct....i don't use a fuse on my 200amp alt to bat.......work's great.and has for some time now
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#63 |
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Registered User
Age: 24
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,713
Location: good ol'north jerz User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#64 |
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AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers
Age: 22
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,231
Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
yeah I forgot to mention Ive got 0 awg up to my 160amp alt. I also have no issues.
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#65 |
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Zr2USA = B_Rich
Age: 21
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,610
Location: Iowa User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
One fuse won't save you even if you do have a short in that wire anyway.
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#66 |
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Registered User
Age: 24
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,713
Location: good ol'north jerz User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
just put in a dbelectrical 220 amp alt. and did the big 3 with 0/1 gauge its nasty i love it best thing i ever did...i recommend it..i gotta get some pics up..
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#67 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 39
Location: Lisbon, CT User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Ok..here is one thing I don't see going on.. what are you doing with the power wire that connects to the fuse block? I installed a small amp and I am not looking to do the big 3 just yet..but can I connect the amp power wire to the alternator power wire? I tried to connect it to the positive battery post but the stud is too small...and the stock harness won't screw in with the amp ring terminal in there.
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#68 |
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Zr2USA = B_Rich
Age: 21
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,610
Location: Iowa User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#69 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
If you can't get the amplifier power wire on the battery, you need battery post extensions. See my original post in this thread explaining them. Picture included. |
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#70 |
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drunk and bored
Age: 40
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 28,503
Location: galesburg(or morton), il User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
my picture
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#71 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
yep
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#72 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 39
Location: Lisbon, CT User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Yeah I finally got it with those side post extenders, I though the power wire pig tail was an inseparable assembly and I couldn't remove the bolt but I got it out and all is good and I am bumping now.. Thanks!
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#73 |
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Registered User
Age: 24
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,713
Location: good ol'north jerz User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
output at idle is 105 amps and voltage is 14.7-8 |
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#74 |
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Registered User
Age: 22
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 220
Location: KOKOMO, IN User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
umm a have a crap ton of 2ga wire laying arround will it work? and where can i get the connectors that ar large enough for it i cant find it anywhere autoparts stores radio shack none of them carry it for that big
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#75 |
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drunk and bored
Age: 40
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 28,503
Location: galesburg(or morton), il User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
parts express
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#76 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
yes, 2 gauge works: it's larger than 4 gauge and certainly larger than stock wiring. you can get terminals for it from parts express (online), a good electrical supply store, or a site i just discovered called terminal supply. actually you can get them at a lot of places, but if you don't know where to look, those are good places to start.
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#77 |
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Registered User
Age: 19
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,528
Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine |
2.2
I did the big three on my 2.2 the other day, along with an excessive amperage alternator. Heres my grounds.
![]() Stock frame ground under the intake. The best way to take this off would be to take your intake off. ![]() everything ground off ![]() 2/0 and stock wire ![]() ![]() Right here is where i grounded my engine block to battery, as you can see the best way to get to it is the passenger side fender well ![]() 2/0 again |
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#78 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 254
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
hopefully someone can answer this.... the how to says not to fuse the alternator to battery wire because it is pointless for whatever reason, but then why is the stock alternator-battery wire in most vehicles run through the fuse box, and potentially how would fusing/not fusing affect the setup? I thought if you dont fuse it and some kind of crazy surge at the battery/alternator happened then both would be damaged, same way you fuse a power wire to an amp so a power surge wont damage it/the battery...
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#79 |
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drunk and bored
Age: 40
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 28,503
Location: galesburg(or morton), il User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
fusing the power wire at the battery has little to do with a surge ...it has to do with a wire being shorted,mainly in an accident,and it prevents damage,explosion of the battery
why put a fuse in between the alt. and battery?...there is a power source on both sides of the fuse |
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#80 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 254
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
i fused it since i had an extra 250A fuse around, but my friend wants to do this and doesnt have a fuse and i want to know if its safe or not to not have one
why put a fuse? i figured this wire is in your engine bay, and if youre not careful running it or have an accident it could get stripped or short/touch bare metal, and the fuse would protect whichever unit is opposite the fuse at least... |
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#81 |
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4x4 v6 blazer
Age: 29
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,002
Location: rison arkansas User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
There is nothing wrong per say with having one. Its just pointless and adds something else to go wrong. The only way to fuse it where the fuses do the job they are intended to do is to have a fuse on each end of the power. One with one end on the battery and the other on the cable. The other one must have one end on the alt and the other on the cable. With just one fuse you will still have one end hot, until the engine is killed at least. |
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#82 |
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chuck yeah
Age: 22
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 643
Location: illinois User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
well with the stock alternator should i stick with 4 gauge wire? or could i go bigger. i know it says the bigger the better but i just want to double check
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#83 |
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AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers
Age: 22
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,231
Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Bigger wire will reduce the amount of resistance in the circuit. So yes running bigger wire will be best.
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#84 |
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Its that dam ADD!
Age: 33
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,456
Location: Vancouver, WA User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#85 |
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chuck yeah
Age: 22
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 643
Location: illinois User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
i probably should have but i just went with 4 guage(im poor right now) i should take pics since ther is none of a 2.2
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#86 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 262
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Just a note. One person said "Wire is wire". Not true at all. The quality of the metal and purity effect it. You can buy cheap thick that is not even as good as thin premo. I realize most people here know that just saying. Trust no one... if they add plastic to baby milk they will add stuff to your wire.
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#87 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Wire is wire. Some are made of higher quality materials than other, no doubt. But, for the length of wire any of us will be running, it makes virtually no difference. Skin depth, the right hand rule, resistance loss, etc. is so minimal with the amount of power capable in the vehicle versus the length of wire used that if you compared a copper clad aluminum wire to a pure copper or pure silver wire, it's likely that unless you had a Fluke multimeter, you'd not be able to even tell a difference between the wires.
Yes, there are better wires than some, but if you have the choice between a wire of pure copper or a wire of copper clad aluminum, why not go with the less expensive wire in lieu of the fact that you won't gain anything by spending the extra money on pure copper. Same goes for strand count for the most part, except wires with higher strand count are usually more flexible. |
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#88 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 262
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
In the original write up should be remove POS first not remove Neg first.
Remove = Pos off neg off Install = Neg on pos on Great write up again thx. |
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#89 |
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Registered User
Age: 22
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 220
Location: KOKOMO, IN User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
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#90 |
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Registered Abuser
Age: 25
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,288
Location: Elkton, MD/Ellendale, DE User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
i got 2 gauge wire and while im doing this im moving the battery behind the passanger seat in the cab.
should i use a distribution block to connect the alt., starter and fusebox to my 2gauge power wire and ditch that factory 175amp fuse mounted under the battery?..i only want 2 wires going into the cab (1 pos & 1 neg) then for ground could i just ground the block to the frame and battery neg. to the frame (less wire to run if i can do it this way) |
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#91 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
yes, sounds good. use a fuse between the starter and dist. block though. i don't know what the max amperage the starter takes, but use that value for the fuse.
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#92 |
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Registered Abuser
Age: 25
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,288
Location: Elkton, MD/Ellendale, DE User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
think the factory 175amp fuse will work?? ill just connect the starter to it then to the distribution block..
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#93 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
like i said, i don't know what the starter's maximum acceptable amperage is. i suspect it's below 175 amps, however.
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#94 |
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Registered User
Age: 21
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 424
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Fuse towards the battery. I dont care what anyone tries to tell you, its much better to burn out a voltage regulator in the alternator than cause a dead short in the battery. If you short this wire, and have no fuse, what do you think happens? The simplest, easiest and safest route is a fused battery terminal. That way anything connected to it is protected from causing a direct battery short. And try to avoid one with a flimsy plastic cover. 90% of the time they vanish into thin air, and thats just lame. Although i will agree with the argument that a wire that is short and well run and doesnt rub on anything will probably NEVER short out, but thats not my point. I would rather buy a 30 dollar block than a new 200 dollar battery. Last edited by Masta Squidge : 02-14-2009 at 02:42 AM. |
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#95 |
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in the works
Age: 20
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 231
Location: Houston, Tx User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
thanks for writing this up. helped alot
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#96 |
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rolling work in progress
Age: 19
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,288
Location: nlr ar User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
cars were made for years with no fuse there with no problems |
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#97 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 179
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
If your battery is not loosing charge you might skip most of that just connect to the battery as mentioned, or electrically closer to it which I also mention here along with amp rating for common wire gauges. I hit that post first.
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#98 |
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Registered User
Age: 20
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 105
Location: Baraboo WI User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
how do I find the stock ground on my engine block? I havent ever looked but my engine is a first gen blazer 4.3? I also got the blazer two days ago...
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#99 |
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I pee standing
Age: 24
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,095
Location: Union Bridge, MD User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Open it up and take a peek. It's not always in the same place on every truck even if they're from the same year. Usually goes to the firewall down low though...
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#100 |
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Old School
Age: 26
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 226
Location: Lakeland Fl User is: OffLine |
Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To
Hope I'm not pissing anyone off by posting in an old sticky, but what is everyones opinion on solid copper core wire? I used this on my '98 and it worked well but was hella hard to work with. How does this compare to using 1 or 2/O power cables?
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| :: View topic - hmm??? | This thread | Refback | 12-20-2007 12:24 AM | |
| alternator/battery prob. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com | This thread | Refback | 11-25-2007 09:52 AM | |
| alternator/battery prob. - JeepForum.com | This thread | Refback | 11-23-2007 07:34 PM | |
| alternator/battery prob. - JeepForum.com | This thread | Refback | 11-23-2007 06:51 PM | |
| alternator/battery prob. - JeepForum.com | This thread | Refback | 11-23-2007 06:28 PM | |