Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To

NorthernCrew · 07-13-2008, 03:20 PM

does anyone have pictures for the 2.2L?

***paint toad*** · 07-13-2008, 06:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lwrd93

we should have a post your big 3 sticky...

we do

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/sound-secur...html#post18183

lwrd93 · 07-14-2008, 06:46 AM

lol..nice

supasoulja · 08-22-2008, 11:23 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by suicidal

How exactly do you do it? i'm interested. just need some instruction.

whoevers car that is on suicidals avatar...

supasoulja · 08-22-2008, 11:28 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by s10junkie98

thanks bud any advice on how to solder the large wires?

Melt solder into terminal, then heat it up and jam the wire into it, then when it's still hot, crimp it to make sure it stays in

***paint toad*** · 08-23-2008, 03:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by supasoulja

Melt solder into terminal, then heat it up and jam the wire into it, then when it's still hot, crimp it to make sure it stays in

a cold solder joint with a crimp as a crutch

BlazerChops · 09-12-2008, 04:42 PM

Just to put in my own 2 cents...

Other than my very first vehicle, a '91 Ford Ranger and my current '02 Blazer, all of my other vehicles have been unibody construction. Since they do not have frames, you had no choice but to ground to the body.

I used to make a solid grounding point to the stock ground location in the engine bay. I suppose most car manufacturers use the typical flat and bare braided ground cable from somewhere on the engine block to somewhere on the firewall or fender(s). I would just add my own 4awg straight to that point from the battery and engine block.

If I were to ever do an install in my Blazer, I would still do it this way as I did in my Ranger and the rest of my vehicles. Since you are making a solid ground out of the body, there's no reason why you have to go cutting and drilling holes through the body of the truck to get to the frame to make your ground.

I hate altering a vehicle in such a way that it is irreversible. For this reason, I have NEVER drilled a single hole in ANY of my vehicles over the years for any of the systems that I've installed. Even for the subwoofer enclosures and amp racks, I design them in such a way that they fit perfectly by friction alone. They are "locked in" so to speak, flowing with the lines of the interior of the vehicle. This makes for a very tight, perfect fit without having extra holes punched throughout the body of the vehicle.

Also, if you ever decide to sell, you can remove everything and the car is back to its original state.

Think about it this way as well. Since 99% of all the electronics in any car/truck/SUV are grounded straight to the body, why not put all of your efforts into properly grounding the body. This way, it improves ALL of the electronics in your vehicle (OEM and aftermarket), not just your stereo or compressors or extra lights.

Again, just my 2 cents.

blazerxtreme18 · 09-16-2008, 09:23 PM

im about to do this im jsut wondering should i put a fuse between the alt and pos. or just wire??? to fuse or not to fuse opinions wanted....

David12460 · 09-16-2008, 09:27 PM

Most people don't but you can. It wont hurt anything.

blazerxtreme18 · 09-16-2008, 09:34 PM

ive heard that the alt can surge an its good to have a fuse there to take the juice instead of the batt overloading

David12460 · 09-16-2008, 09:39 PM

Um a battery is a good shock absorber for spikes. As long as you don't sit over 16v for long periods of time you will be ok. The Alt has a voltage regulator that controls the charging rate.

someone correct me if im wrong...

xdude2001 · 09-16-2008, 10:59 PM

correct....i don't use a fuse on my 200amp alt to bat.......work's great.and has for some time now

blazerxtreme18 · 09-17-2008, 12:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by xdude2001

correct....i don't use a fuse on my 200amp alt to bat.......work's great.and has for some time now

cool thats what i wanna hear....thanks

David12460 · 09-17-2008, 12:51 AM

yeah I forgot to mention Ive got 0 awg up to my 160amp alt. I also have no issues.

VoRtEcZr243 · 09-19-2008, 01:05 PM

One fuse won't save you even if you do have a short in that wire anyway.

blazerxtreme18 · 09-20-2008, 11:52 AM

just put in a dbelectrical 220 amp alt. and did the big 3 with 0/1 gauge its nasty i love it best thing i ever did...i recommend it..i gotta get some pics up..

Elite_Tux · 09-20-2008, 01:55 PM

Ok..here is one thing I don't see going on.. what are you doing with the power wire that connects to the fuse block? I installed a small amp and I am not looking to do the big 3 just yet..but can I connect the amp power wire to the alternator power wire? I tried to connect it to the positive battery post but the stud is too small...and the stock harness won't screw in with the amp ring terminal in there.

VoRtEcZr243 · 09-20-2008, 02:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blazerxtreme18

just put in a dbelectrical 220 amp alt. and did the big 3 with 0/1 gauge its nasty i love it best thing i ever did...i recommend it..i gotta get some pics up..

Can I ask what your output is at idle? Amperage and voltage.

juddspaintballs · 09-20-2008, 04:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Elite_Tux

Ok..here is one thing I don't see going on.. what are you doing with the power wire that connects to the fuse block? I installed a small amp and I am not looking to do the big 3 just yet..but can I connect the amp power wire to the alternator power wire? I tried to connect it to the positive battery post but the stud is too small...and the stock harness won't screw in with the amp ring terminal in there.

It is advisable to skip the factory fuse block with the Big Three. It forms a choke point and restricts current flow. I do not advise that you connect your amplifier power wire directly to your alternator, however. Voltage fluctuates a little directly at the alternator (and therefore throughout the whole truck), but the battery slightly buffers the fluctuation and helps you maintain a more constant voltage (I didn't say it wouldn't fluctuate at all...just a hair less). Also, if the internal rectifier goes poop on your alternator, then your amplifier will see the extra voltage that it shouldn't and may become damaged. If you keep the battery in between the amp and alternator, then your battery will die before your amp sees too much voltage, thus protecting your amplifier.

If you can't get the amplifier power wire on the battery, you need battery post extensions. See my original post in this thread explaining them. Picture included.

***paint toad*** · 09-20-2008, 04:38 PM

my picture

juddspaintballs · 09-20-2008, 05:01 PM

Elite_Tux · 09-21-2008, 12:03 PM

Yeah I finally got it with those side post extenders, I though the power wire pig tail was an inseparable assembly and I couldn't remove the bolt but I got it out and all is good and I am bumping now.. Thanks!

blazerxtreme18 · 09-21-2008, 12:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by VoRtEcZr243

Can I ask what your output is at idle? Amperage and voltage.

output at idle is 105 amps and voltage is 14.7-8

opiefavors · 10-23-2008, 10:47 PM

umm a have a crap ton of 2ga wire laying arround will it work? and where can i get the connectors that ar large enough for it i cant find it anywhere autoparts stores radio shack none of them carry it for that big

***paint toad*** · 10-23-2008, 10:50 PM

parts express

juddspaintballs · 10-24-2008, 09:04 PM

yes, 2 gauge works: it's larger than 4 gauge and certainly larger than stock wiring. you can get terminals for it from parts express (online), a good electrical supply store, or a site i just discovered called terminal supply. actually you can get them at a lot of places, but if you don't know where to look, those are good places to start.

Geat · 10-25-2008, 03:02 PM

I did the big three on my 2.2 the other day, along with an excessive amperage alternator. Heres my grounds.

Stock frame ground under the intake. The best way to take this off would be to take your intake off.

everything ground off

2/0 and stock wire

Right here is where i grounded my engine block to battery, as you can see the best way to get to it is the passenger side fender well

2/0 again

IdonthaveanS10 · 11-11-2008, 05:48 AM

hopefully someone can answer this.... the how to says not to fuse the alternator to battery wire because it is pointless for whatever reason, but then why is the stock alternator-battery wire in most vehicles run through the fuse box, and potentially how would fusing/not fusing affect the setup? I thought if you dont fuse it and some kind of crazy surge at the battery/alternator happened then both would be damaged, same way you fuse a power wire to an amp so a power surge wont damage it/the battery...

***paint toad*** · 11-11-2008, 10:57 PM

fusing the power wire at the battery has little to do with a surge ...it has to do with a wire being shorted,mainly in an accident,and it prevents damage,explosion of the battery

why put a fuse in between the alt. and battery?...there is power on both sides of the fuse

IdonthaveanS10 · 11-12-2008, 12:35 AM

i fused it since i had an extra 250A fuse around, but my friend wants to do this and doesnt have a fuse and i want to know if its safe or not to not have one

why put a fuse? i figured this wire is in your engine bay, and if youre not careful running it or have an accident it could get stripped or short/touch bare metal, and the fuse would protect whichever unit is opposite the fuse at least...

neo71665 · 11-12-2008, 04:56 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by IdonthaveanS10

i fused it since i had an extra 250A fuse around, but my friend wants to do this and doesnt have a fuse and i want to know if its safe or not to not have one

why put a fuse? i figured this wire is in your engine bay, and if youre not careful running it or have an accident it could get stripped or short/touch bare metal, and the fuse would protect whichever unit is opposite the fuse at least...

There is nothing wrong per say with having one. Its just pointless and adds something else to go wrong. The only way to fuse it where the fuses do the job they are intended to do is to have a fuse on each end of the power. One with one end on the battery and the other on the cable. The other one must have one end on the alt and the other on the cable. With j

07-13-2008, 03:20 PM	#51
NorthernCrew Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 198 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To does anyone have pictures for the 2.2L?
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-13-2008, 06:13 PM	#52
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,997 Location: morton il User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by lwrd93 we should have a post your big 3 sticky... we do http://www.gmtruckhq.com/sound-secur...html#post18183
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-14-2008, 06:46 AM	#53
lwrd93 Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 363 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To lol..nice
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08-22-2008, 11:23 AM	#54
supasoulja FO DO'S 4 LYFE!!! Age: 18 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,390 Location: Miami User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by suicidal How exactly do you do it? i'm interested. just need some instruction. whoevers car that is on suicidals avatar...
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-22-2008, 11:28 AM	#55
supasoulja FO DO'S 4 LYFE!!! Age: 18 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,390 Location: Miami User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by s10junkie98 thanks bud any advice on how to solder the large wires? Melt solder into terminal, then heat it up and jam the wire into it, then when it's still hot, crimp it to make sure it stays in
	[Reply w/Quote]


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08-23-2008, 03:25 PM	#56
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,997 Location: morton il User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by supasoulja Melt solder into terminal, then heat it up and jam the wire into it, then when it's still hot, crimp it to make sure it stays in a cold solder joint with a crimp as a crutch
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-12-2008, 04:42 PM	#57
BlazerChops The Super Clean Blazer! Age: 33 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 692 Location: Lakeland, FL User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Just to put in my own 2 cents... Other than my very first vehicle, a '91 Ford Ranger and my current '02 Blazer, all of my other vehicles have been unibody construction. Since they do not have frames, you had no choice but to ground to the body. I used to make a solid grounding point to the stock ground location in the engine bay. I suppose most car manufacturers use the typical flat and bare braided ground cable from somewhere on the engine block to somewhere on the firewall or fender(s). I would just add my own 4awg straight to that point from the battery and engine block. If I were to ever do an install in my Blazer, I would still do it this way as I did in my Ranger and the rest of my vehicles. Since you are making a solid ground out of the body, there's no reason why you have to go cutting and drilling holes through the body of the truck to get to the frame to make your ground. I hate altering a vehicle in such a way that it is irreversible. For this reason, I have NEVER drilled a single hole in ANY of my vehicles over the years for any of the systems that I've installed. Even for the subwoofer enclosures and amp racks, I design them in such a way that they fit perfectly by friction alone. They are "locked in" so to speak, flowing with the lines of the interior of the vehicle. This makes for a very tight, perfect fit without having extra holes punched throughout the body of the vehicle. Also, if you ever decide to sell, you can remove everything and the car is back to its original state. Think about it this way as well. Since 99% of all the electronics in any car/truck/SUV are grounded straight to the body, why not put all of your efforts into properly grounding the body. This way, it improves ALL of the electronics in your vehicle (OEM and aftermarket), not just your stereo or compressors or extra lights. Again, just my 2 cents. Last edited by BlazerChops : 09-12-2008 at 04:44 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-16-2008, 09:23 PM	#58
blazerxtreme18 x-blazin Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 505 Location: reppin jerz User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To im about to do this im jsut wondering should i put a fuse between the alt and pos. or just wire??? to fuse or not to fuse opinions wanted....
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-16-2008, 09:27 PM	#59
David12460 AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,845 Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Most people don't but you can. It wont hurt anything.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-16-2008, 09:34 PM	#60
blazerxtreme18 x-blazin Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 505 Location: reppin jerz User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To ive heard that the alt can surge an its good to have a fuse there to take the juice instead of the batt overloading
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-16-2008, 09:39 PM	#61
David12460 AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,845 Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Um a battery is a good shock absorber for spikes. As long as you don't sit over 16v for long periods of time you will be ok. The Alt has a voltage regulator that controls the charging rate. someone correct me if im wrong... Last edited by David12460 : 09-16-2008 at 09:41 PM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-16-2008, 10:59 PM	#62
xdude2001 addicted... to RC ! Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 4,097 Location: Sacramento,Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To correct....i don't use a fuse on my 200amp alt to bat.......work's great.and has for some time now
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-17-2008, 12:48 AM	#63
blazerxtreme18 x-blazin Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 505 Location: reppin jerz User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by xdude2001 correct....i don't use a fuse on my 200amp alt to bat.......work's great.and has for some time now cool thats what i wanna hear....thanks
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-17-2008, 12:51 AM	#64
David12460 AKA DavidAndSomeNumbers Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,845 Location: Minnesota User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To yeah I forgot to mention Ive got 0 awg up to my 160amp alt. I also have no issues.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-19-2008, 01:05 PM	#65
VoRtEcZr243 The names Brian... Age: 20 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 613 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To One fuse won't save you even if you do have a short in that wire anyway.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-20-2008, 11:52 AM	#66
blazerxtreme18 x-blazin Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 505 Location: reppin jerz User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To just put in a dbelectrical 220 amp alt. and did the big 3 with 0/1 gauge its nasty i love it best thing i ever did...i recommend it..i gotta get some pics up..
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-20-2008, 01:55 PM	#67
Elite_Tux Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Lisbon, CT User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Ok..here is one thing I don't see going on.. what are you doing with the power wire that connects to the fuse block? I installed a small amp and I am not looking to do the big 3 just yet..but can I connect the amp power wire to the alternator power wire? I tried to connect it to the positive battery post but the stud is too small...and the stock harness won't screw in with the amp ring terminal in there.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-20-2008, 02:06 PM	#68
VoRtEcZr243 The names Brian... Age: 20 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 613 Location: Iowa User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by blazerxtreme18 just put in a dbelectrical 220 amp alt. and did the big 3 with 0/1 gauge its nasty i love it best thing i ever did...i recommend it..i gotta get some pics up.. Can I ask what your output is at idle? Amperage and voltage.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-20-2008, 04:23 PM	#69
juddspaintballs JED Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 5,837 Location: Reisterstown, MD User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by Elite_Tux Ok..here is one thing I don't see going on.. what are you doing with the power wire that connects to the fuse block? I installed a small amp and I am not looking to do the big 3 just yet..but can I connect the amp power wire to the alternator power wire? I tried to connect it to the positive battery post but the stud is too small...and the stock harness won't screw in with the amp ring terminal in there. It is advisable to skip the factory fuse block with the Big Three. It forms a choke point and restricts current flow. I do not advise that you connect your amplifier power wire directly to your alternator, however. Voltage fluctuates a little directly at the alternator (and therefore throughout the whole truck), but the battery slightly buffers the fluctuation and helps you maintain a more constant voltage (I didn't say it wouldn't fluctuate at all...just a hair less). Also, if the internal rectifier goes poop on your alternator, then your amplifier will see the extra voltage that it shouldn't and may become damaged. If you keep the battery in between the amp and alternator, then your battery will die before your amp sees too much voltage, thus protecting your amplifier. If you can't get the amplifier power wire on the battery, you need battery post extensions. See my original post in this thread explaining them. Picture included.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-20-2008, 04:38 PM	#70
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,997 Location: morton il User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To my picture
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09-20-2008, 05:01 PM	#71
juddspaintballs JED Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 5,837 Location: Reisterstown, MD User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To yep
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09-21-2008, 12:03 PM	#72
Elite_Tux Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Lisbon, CT User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Yeah I finally got it with those side post extenders, I though the power wire pig tail was an inseparable assembly and I couldn't remove the bolt but I got it out and all is good and I am bumping now.. Thanks!
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-21-2008, 12:18 PM	#73
blazerxtreme18 x-blazin Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 505 Location: reppin jerz User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To Quote: Originally Posted by VoRtEcZr243 Can I ask what your output is at idle? Amperage and voltage. output at idle is 105 amps and voltage is 14.7-8
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-23-2008, 10:47 PM	#74
opiefavors Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 135 Location: kokomo, IN User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To umm a have a crap ton of 2ga wire laying arround will it work? and where can i get the connectors that ar large enough for it i cant find it anywhere autoparts stores radio shack none of them carry it for that big
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-23-2008, 10:50 PM	#75
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,997 Location: morton il User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To parts express
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10-24-2008, 09:04 PM	#76
juddspaintballs JED Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 5,837 Location: Reisterstown, MD User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To yes, 2 gauge works: it's larger than 4 gauge and certainly larger than stock wiring. you can get terminals for it from parts express (online), a good electrical supply store, or a site i just discovered called terminal supply. actually you can get them at a lot of places, but if you don't know where to look, those are good places to start.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-25-2008, 03:02 PM	#77
Geat Registered User Age: 18 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,263 Location: Knoxville, TN User is: OffLine	2.2 I did the big three on my 2.2 the other day, along with an excessive amperage alternator. Heres my grounds. Stock frame ground under the intake. The best way to take this off would be to take your intake off. everything ground off 2/0 and stock wire Right here is where i grounded my engine block to battery, as you can see the best way to get to it is the passenger side fender well 2/0 again
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-11-2008, 05:48 AM	#78
IdonthaveanS10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 48 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To hopefully someone can answer this.... the how to says not to fuse the alternator to battery wire because it is pointless for whatever reason, but then why is the stock alternator-battery wire in most vehicles run through the fuse box, and potentially how would fusing/not fusing affect the setup? I thought if you dont fuse it and some kind of crazy surge at the battery/alternator happened then both would be damaged, same way you fuse a power wire to an amp so a power surge wont damage it/the battery...
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-11-2008, 10:57 PM	#79
*paint toad* i'm back Age: 39 Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 18,997 Location: morton il User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To fusing the power wire at the battery has little to do with a surge ...it has to do with a wire being shorted,mainly in an accident,and it prevents damage,explosion of the battery why put a fuse in between the alt. and battery?...there is power on both sides of the fuse
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-12-2008, 12:35 AM	#80
IdonthaveanS10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 48 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Big Three (Big 3) Upgrade How-To i fused it since i had an extra 250A fuse around, but my friend wants to do this and doesnt have a fuse and i want to know if its safe or not to not have one why put a fuse? i figured this wire is in your engine bay, and if youre not careful running it or have an accident it could get stripped or short/touch bare metal, and the fuse would protect whichever unit is opposite the fuse at least...
	[Reply w/Quote]