Teaching Fiberglass (part one and two)

[NickZigaitis]

After I finsh the sub box and all the painting of the interior pieces, I think I'm going to fiberglass the center arm rest and try some airbrushing on it. That might be Part 3 later down the road.

[NickZigaitis]

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201166&highlight=Fiberglassing+sc reen

Orangesonoma,


Here you go. Thanks

[BIGGERISBETTER]

Good call Brian. I dont normally bitch about anything, but given all the threads about " how do i fiberglass stuff and where do i find supplies" i figured the correct way ought to be saved. Should cut down on threads asking the same questions.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by BIGGERISBETTER

Good call Brian. I dont normally bitch about anything, but given all the threads about " how do i fiberglass stuff and where do i find supplies" i figured the correct way ought to be saved. Should cut down on threads asking the same questions.

Exaactly. Thanks

Brian (Orangsonoma),

Could you add the "Fiberglassing Supply Resource" thread also. Its got good info for those who can't get this stuff locally.



http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showth...ssing+su pply

[orangesonoma]

ok ill take care of that later...i have some shit i have to do ...ok

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by orangesonoma

ok ill take care of that later...i have some shit i have to do ...ok

Cool.

Thanks

[hutchS-10]

def. a good thread man. I have done some stuff with fiberglass and this gives alot of goood info . so does the screen install thing not just applicationn specific but good info on fiberglassing anything ..Appreciate man keep it up

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by hutchS-10

def. a good thread man. I have done some stuff with fiberglass and this gives alot of goood info . so does the screen install thing not just applicationn specific but good info on fiberglassing anything ..Appreciate man keep it up

Anytime. As I do more, I'll post more pics of various other items.

[NickZigaitis]

Update:


Here are some pictures of the almost finished product. The enclosure is painted but unfortunately like I've said in the past that surface prep is everything. Well I painted it and found a couple spots that I didn't notice with a magnafind glass so I've sanded it back down to reprep it and shoot it again. But I've got some pics of it before I did that, so you get the idea.

The amp compartment at the top, or amp rack, whatever you want to call it. hads been laid with a custom tinted Graphite formica. This area will also have a frame made to cover the amps with a Dark Grey Speaker frame fabric (much like the same fabric of your home enteryainment speakers and their fabric covered frames over the woofers. This frame will be hinged at the top with an actuator that will open up and expose the amps. I'll post more pics later when I get to that point.

But here is how it looks for now.

[cobra42988]

hey where can i get that stuff and what do i need and about how much is it all ?

[turbofire00]

is there a certain cloth u use or can i find it any fabric store. I am about to undergo a full interior mod and need all the help i can to get it right the first time. I love to do my own work and would take any hints from mistakes any onemade doing the dash and door panels or speker boxes.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by cobra42988

hey where can i get that stuff and what do i need and about how much is it all ?

If you are looking for quality stuff, which makes the process easier, read the Fiberglassing Resource Sticky I wrote. There you will find everything you need and the costs involved. They are a little more pricey than Walmart but the quality is so much better.

You can do the Walmart route. List of stuff you'll need:

Stretch fabric - sold by the square yard (Cost unknown)

Weave fiberglass - sold in the auto section of Walmart, by the 1 square yard, couple $$

Resin general purpose - sold at Home Depot by the quart, $13

Throw-a-way brushes - Walmart or HD, .89$ each (you need a bunch)

Epoxy - sold at a marine store, $$expensive (most expensive part)(BUT should be used in place of resin when structure is a property of the item.

____________________________________

Cost increases with the size of the item fiberglassed and the number of layers of fiberglass used. AT THE MINIMUM you should always double up the layer. Often, this won't be enough. Good fiberglassing calls for 4-5 or even more depending on the function of the item and whether it is structural or not.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by turbofire00

is there a certain cloth u use or can i find it any fabric store. I am about to undergo a full interior mod and need all the help i can to get it right the first time. I love to do my own work and would take any hints from mistakes any onemade doing the dash and door panels or speker boxes.

The fabric?, I assume you are referring to the stretch fabric. You are looking for something very strechy, thicker than T-shirt material, and definately not fleece.

Hint: or more like a mistake I made. Don't cop out and use a t-shirt material that is very thin just because it streches well. The resin, during curing, shrinks, which with a thin material will cause warping in much the same manor as welding too high a heat to a thin sheet metal. But, if this occurres depending on your project, you can use what is called pinching, by where you drive a screwed through the fiberglass to the structure behind it (if any) to pinch or draw the material down in an area to alleviate the warp some what and reduce the thickness of bondo applied to level the area of the warp.

[NickZigaitis]

Sorry, its been a while since I have posted updates on the sub box. Since the last photos, the box has been painted, the amp area had a custom dyed formica in laid for a very smooth finish and the amp were installed. Right now I'm in the process of wiring them up and trying to find good paths for laying the wire around these amps, especially since they are getting 4 guage wire.

[NickZigaitis]

Another update. Most of the wiring is done for the amp compartment area. 4 guage wiring was used to provide the least amount of resistance within the electrical systems. Notice the 4 fused D-block. Each fuse position was numbered for easy reference to which amp was affected in the event that a fuse blew. This will help with troubleshooting. Unfortunately it sort of looks spagetti-ish. I had to really work at routing the wiring because 4 guage wire is bendable but with such a cramped area it was a little difficult to map out the wiring and have it look uniform. I think I got it though.

This amp compartment area will be covered by a frame that is covered in speaker grill fabric. It is the same fabric used to cover the frames of your home entertainment speakers. The fabric I chose is not black like typically seen. Instead I found a dark grey fabric. This fabric frame will cover the amps from dust but be thin enought to allow the amps to breathe and stay somewhat cooler than using a different type of fabric.

The speaker grill fabric will also be used on the door panel's cushion top area. The rest of the plastic on the door will be painted just like the dash bezel and this woofer box. By double layering this fabric, it will not be able to be see-though but also reduces the likelihood of fraying or looking frazzled like tweed does over time. Doing this will help tie in all of the interior together and look more uniform as if it was a factory option from GM.











Let me know what you all think so far.

Thanks

[thomnjohn]

Damn! You do some really nice work.

[whitedime]

what a nightmare. lol nice job

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by thomnjohn

Damn! You do some really nice work.

Thanks bro. I try. I really have to hand thanks over to this forum. I've never had such a resource for info and ideas at the tip of my fingers. Alot of my idea are a culmination of many ideas throughout the forum. I just put my own little spin on them.

Thanks

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by whitedime

what a nightmare. lol nice job

Trying to bend the 4 guage wire in such a tight space was a bitch. Thats my you see looping of the wire to take stress of the bends and ultimately the connection and connection posts of the amps.

[pewter_dime_99]

im not sure if you mentioned this, but is this box for and x-cab or for a standard cab... it looks to me like it would fit in a reg cab...but i'm not so sure
thanks

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by pewter_dime_99

im not sure if you mentioned this, but is this box for and x-cab or for a standard cab... it looks to me like it would fit in a reg cab...but i'm not so sure
thanks

Box is for a regular cab. I think I might have tried a little more wild of a configuration if I had the extra room an extended cab offers.

[NickZigaitis]

More update photos. Let me have your opinions.




These two are of the Dash pods I made for a set of Audiobahn components.
Its utlizing the oem speaker grill as a base to ensure perfect fit with the existing hole in the dash. Then a platform was made and fiberglass was laid.





This is one of the pillar pod graphed into the pillar cowl using fiberglass. The seams of the pod are now gone so the whole pillar cowl and pod look as though one solid piece from the factory.



You may have seen the few pics I've shown of the AC Controls put into the glove box. However, these are some photos of it now installed. Wiring harnesses were extended 1 foot for clearance and reduction of future chaffing issue that may arise.





These pics are an update of the sub enclosure. They demonstrate fitment of the box in a mostly finished configuration for a regular cab S10. Its not a permenant install yet. The rear pillar cowls, seatbelt mount covers, and some more wiring need to be complete before it is bolted to the cab.







The seat can be pushed as far back as the woofers extend almost, to allow more room. But, its still going to be closer than most might like. I don't mind though cause I'm a short bastard anyway, 5'7".

Enjoy or use them as ideas for your ride.

[NickZigaitis]

Tell me what you guys think.

What would you all have liked to have seen done differently?

Any ideas for a center console before I start crack'n on the fiberglass again?

Comments are appreciated.

[pewter_dime_99]

man i love it all

[NickZigaitis]

Another Fiberglassing Bezel Class


Fixing Previous Fiberglassing Error

I was contacted and contracted to help a fellow member out with his dash bezel. I have gotten permission from him to post pictures of his build up and explain some Do's and Don't(s) with fiberglassing.

I have said in the past that fiberglassing is forgiveable. So throughout the next couple weeks we'll tackle some very common errors that most might make and ways to avoid and or fix them if made.

So, lets get started.

The object here is to do a complete duplicate of the dash screen install previously shown in this thread from a dash bezel fiberglassing attempt gone slightly arye. I give the owner a 6.5 out of 10 on his attempt. But its cool cause its fix-able.

First things first. PROTECT WHAT YOU KNOW YOU CAN NOT FIX!!! i.e. the screen






The screen's power wire was cut by the owner to I guess shorten the length, however, the patch or connection made was by tristing the wires together. While this works. Its not proper. Proper connections should always involve soldering the wire and heat shrinking both leads and then heatshirnking all the leads to encase them. We'll come back to that later.

Next, Identify whats wrongs, whats not working and what to do to fix it. Like I have said in the past. Its 95% planning and a little bit of fiberglass. Don't be afraid to throughly inspect your part and make notes on them to remind you what needs fixing.

These pictures show you how I recieved the bezel.










Notice the exessive resin build up that ran over into areas not intended. Also, notice the characteristic markings of a power sanders use. most of the rounded edges and flowing curves of the oem piece have been flattened

Lets identify what needas to be done and make notes. Look very closely at the items and write on it where you have seen errors. The next couple of photos will show you errors that I have seen and small notes to myself on what needs to be done.







Back to planning. You need to develope a plan for yourself as a step by step of what will need to be done. Here is the one I came up with for this piece.

*Sand the entire bezel and try to remove as much resin that ran over into other areas.

*Sand as much of the flat spots out of the bezel and try to re-radius them.

*Cut the duct work for the driver's side AC vent off. It is still attached and no longer needed.

*Reinforce fiberglass the existing patch on the AC vent and gusset it.

*mark the hole to be cut for new main block off plate (Radio and screen area)

*Cut hole for new plate and epoxy in new filler plate. Gusset the filler plate with fiberglass

*Cut holes in filler plate for screen bezel and radio bezel

*Epoxy in screen bezel and radio bezel and gusset with fiberglass

*Make frame for screen and epoxy on

*strech fabric

*Epoxy fiberglass

*Bondo and surface level entire bezel

these are steps to get me on track. They are small goals for progress and realistically, this bezel could be mostly done minus the bondo, by Sunday afternoon.

Next mark the hole to be cut for the new filler plate. I used a L-shaped straight edge to mark lines and then masked the area off and painted it primer black to easily identify what needed to be cut.

The area in black will be removed and new filler panel will fill this area.





Notice the paper in the back ground. That is my list of areas to tackle on this project. You should have this list too.


Check back Monday, Nov. 14th for update photos of the progress of this weekend.

Thanks

[NickZigaitis]

Okay well alot got done this weekend. I have plenty of photos for you all explaining areas of interest and some things found along the way that aren't good techniques for fiberglassing.

So here we go.



Notice in this photo the use of carboard. Carboard was used as a filler panel when laying the fiberglass originally. It was also used in blocking off the AC vent on the driver's side. This is a big no-no and I'll explain. The owner tried the sandwich technique. This is a very viable technigue to have tried and I commend the owner on doing it. However, the choice in material to use as the sandwich was incorrect. Items such as medium density foam, wood (as used here) or even anoth fiberglass filler are the best to use. These material have been tried and true in making extremely strong piece when fiberglass is layed on either side of it. However, filler panels such as carboard doo not allow proper penetration of the resin. In a sense, the fiberglass on one side penetrates only that side and vice versa of the fiberglass laidf on the other side. The strength of the two do not meet or do not have something strng between them bonding the two together. In this example, you end up with one layer floating over the other. How does it float? It floats on the luever core of the carboard, which can crush under pressure. Because the carboard will give and not the fiberglass, the fiberglass panel will crack at the seams. The is exactly what happened with the AC vent is you refer back to the previous picture shown you'll see a long crack following the filler plate closest to the curved hood over the guages.



Here is a prime example of resin startvation. Not enough resin was applied during the initial application of the fiberglass. The results of this are the frosty appearance of the fiberglass. Always be looking for this appearance when laying fiberglass resin to ensure you have proper penetration. When applying fiberglass, regardless of weight fiberglass, the glass should look opaque and somewhat see through.

Because of the inadequate resin applied causing stavation you get this:



Threads of the fiberglass physically pulled from where it was laid.

Because the AC vent is no longer used, ther is no longer a need for the ducting. This will be cut off which will also simplify installing the bezel when completed.



We'll address the filler plate underneath it later.



The hole was cut for the filler plate.



Here the filler plate is being epoxied in. Because of the slight curve of the bezel, the upper half was glue and then the lower half was pulled down and glued.



After careful measurement of the screen's mount size and radio mount, the areas were masked off and then dusted with black primer to mark them. Then they were cut out.



Make a sketch of the wood frame to be used for the 3D effect of the screen on a counter top. Draw diagonal lines through the corner. The diagonal lines will help to guide you when cutting the bologne cuts in the wood.

[NickZigaitis]

Properly secure the wood sides to the counter top folloing the drawn jig of the frame and then carefully epoxy the sides together but make sure you don't get crazy with the epoxy and glue them to the countertop.



Then epoxy into the filler plate the screen's mounting bezel and the wood frame over top it. Also epoxy in the radio mount. Notice the fiberglass strips. These strips will be used WITH epoxy, to gusset all the joints of these items to the filler plate as will as fiberglassing the rest of the areas of the filler plate to complete the sandwich.



When structure is involved, try to use epoxy only. The resulting strength will be far more superior than that of resin.

The lines in this picture are marking for me as a reference point, what areas will be gussetted with 3 oz fiberglass.



For structural purposes, a 10oz fiberglass aircraft grade was used for the cd player mount. This will help greatly with strength needed when a 4 pound cd player is being josselled back and forth as your ride rolls over bumpy roads



Here is a picture showing you the differences between the various oz fiberglasses used. I took the picture of them with them labeled by oz against a picture to show how the lighter weight oz fiberglass is so thin its like silk and almost see through. Rules of thumb:

Thinner the fiberglass = easiest to conform to curves = requires lots of layers

Thicker the fiberglass = slightly harder to conform to curves and may require relief cuts = less layers = greater strength.





Now that all of the skeleton of this install is complete and properly secured with structure in mind: Remember, build every fiberglass project with structure in mind first, cosmetic second. If you don't have structure, the cosmetic will eventually become ruined. Case in point, the AC vent on this bezel.

With the skeleton done, epoxy the strech fabric allong the hood for the guages on the right side. This is done because there is no other proper means for streching the fabric to get the desired look. Then strech the fabric very tight and secure with tack to the counter top. And resin away. Make sure you have adequate penetration. You should have good penetration is the fabric looks thouroughly soaked and very wet in appearance. Because this screen is larger that the screen of the first install shown in the thread, the screen position is closer to the head unit's mount. Because of this closer proximity, the strech fabric was streching over the HU upper aspect of the mount and not making contact with all four sides of the HU mount. To ensure contact, small weights were used to sag the fabric in the middle of the HU's mount to ensure contact was made on all four sides. What better to use as weight that aren't too heavy and small enough to fit in the middle hole of the HU mount, Large Drive Sockets. You'll see these in the picture.



With this layer cured, the fiberglass could now be applied. First scuff this surface with 120 grit paper and then lay out your fiberglass to ensure proper size. Here, I'm using 10 oz aircraft grade fiberglass with an additional layer of 3 ox glass to fill the large weave of the 10oz glass.





With the fiberglass cured, the access could now be cut off and the edges trued up. These next couple of photos show you how the bezel looks after all the fiberglass fabrication has been complete. Notice it is an identical copy of the process and end result of the first bezel made. The only difference is the size of the screen.







The only thing left now is the bondo phase and ensuring all surface are level and the areas fiberglassed are flowing together seamlessly.

The last area address before calling the fiberglass phase complete was the driver's side AC vent. The area was re-gussetted with fiberglass and epoxy. This will give a stronger hold because epoxy was used. The cardboard was left because it would cause more damage trying to get it out rather than leaving it. So, the gussets were draw nearly 1/2" past its edges with this piece pressed in as far as possible during the curing process to reduce the gap in the crack on the front side. With bondo used on the front side, the crack will disappear.



Check back later for the rest of the build using bondo to level surfaces and prep it for primer and completing it.

Thanks

[LowTech]

looks awsome man post up a link to part one so i can bookmark it

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by LowTech

looks awsome man post up a link to part one so i can bookmark it

Part 1 was added by the moderators to this thread at the beginning, so part 1 and 2 are all here in this thread.

After this bezel is complete I'll do a fiberglass console.

[jherrell]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Tell me what you guys think.

What would you all have liked to have seen done differently?

Any ideas for a center console before I start crack'n on the fiberglass again?

Comments are appreciated.

Nick,
awesome thread... any pics with your seats in. I'll bug you later with some other questions.

Peace
Slash

[pewter_dime_99]

hey man you do absolulty amazing work

i love your box design and i was thinkin of doing something similar... is there anyway to do a box like yours for just 2 10s that would not lose as much leg room... i am about 6'2" and its mostly leg, so i need some room...

also, what are some other options with doing something custom for the bezel... i would like to do something different with mine, but my father (an illinois state trooper) will not let me put in a screen due to illinois' tv laws..... any ideas of something creative?

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by jherrell

Nick,
awesome thread... any pics with your seats in. I'll bug you later with some other questions.

Peace
Slash

Seats are still out cause I have some wiring to do with the screen, headunit and the air ride switch wiring. I'm doing a schematic right now of the electrical lay out other than stock to help me. But, I'll have to put the seats in for a moment to get measurements when I go to make the center console. I'll get pics then and post them up. Hang tight. I have to finish this guys bezel first before doing all that.

Thanks

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by pewter_dime_99

hey man you do absolulty amazing work

i love your box design and i was thinkin of doing something similar... is there anyway to do a box like yours for just 2 10s that would not lose as much leg room... i am about 6'2" and its mostly leg, so i need some room...

also, what are some other options with doing something custom for the bezel... i would like to do something different with mine, but my father (an illinois state trooper) will not let me put in a screen due to illinois' tv laws..... any ideas of something creative?

You could do two woofers with the same 3D effect pushed more so to the right side (passenger side) leaving the box behind the driver flatter to pull the seat back. If your seat is already slammed back at far as it will go, then you might be SOL unfortunately.

As far as the bezel. There are all kinds of example on this forum of guys doing some pretty cool ideas with the bezel. However, make sure you keep in mind that you need to build the bezel for strength then cosmetics. If you don't then things start cracking and cosmetics goes all to hell. I need to know a little more to give you some ideas that maybe others can expound upon. Do you have air ride, after market guages, etc.?

[BIGGERISBETTER]

what wheels are you going to try to lay nick? Reason i ask.. is you may encounter a problem if they are larger than 18's in the rear. If you have 20's your going to need to tub the rear of your cab for the driveshaft... and thats gonna make your box not fit w/o modifying it... so if your planning on laying 20's... you might need to modify your box before ya stick it in there for good.. If not though.. even better . Just something i wanted to throw out there if ya had happened to forget. Awesome work though btw.. cant wait to use your advice when i start glassin more. Trucks lookin sweet

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by BIGGERISBETTER

what wheels are you going to try to lay nick? Reason i ask.. is you may encounter a problem if they are larger than 18's in the rear. If you have 20's your going to need to tub the rear of your cab for the driveshaft... and thats gonna make your box not fit w/o modifying it... so if your planning on laying 20's... you might need to modify your box before ya stick it in there for good.. If not though.. even better . Just something i wanted to throw out there if ya had happened to forget. Awesome work though btw.. cant wait to use your advice when i start glassin more. Trucks lookin sweet

Good question. Well I have the RG kit, not installed yet and the Cool Ride with Tube Upper and Lower for the front. I have the tubs for the bed but, I thought problems with drive shaft clearance was only an issue if BD was what was being done. Or, if you had an extended cab.

Can anyone confirm that, with no body drop, 20's in the rear with the RG, I'll run into shaft clearance issues?

Thanks

[NickZigaitis]

BIGGERISBETTER, Just so you know, I'm pissed, but not pissed at you. I greatly appreciate your input and its a very viable problem I may run into. This box has been nearly 4 months of work when trying to compete for garage time against a slightly demanding wife and school/work life. I usually try to forecast the possible problems years in advance and can't believe I didn't take this into account.

Depending on the size notch, I may be agle to hog out the bottom of the box floor and fiberglass in a new floor for it. But I need to take into account airspace and magnet clearance of the #2 woofer. I posted a thread asking questions about it and guys were helpful but the pic really wasn't (no offence guys). The pic was of a 1st gen that's BD. I'm not 100% sure of the size hole made was to accomadate for the BD. And I'm not sure of the variances between the 1st and 2nd gen floor.

If the box has to go, I'll just rebuild a new one and be disgruntle while I sand away, oh well.

If the box can't be used, Any want to buy it, lol?

I could really use some photos of floors notched for the driveshaft to make clearance when adding air ride and laying out on 20s. I could really use these photos that show depth and length of the notch made.

If the notch has to run where the middle woofer follows the curve of the floor and the notch doesn't go near the very rear of the cab, then I'm screwed, the box is scraped and I'm starting over.

NEED THE PICS,

Thanks guys.

[BIGGERISBETTER]

man.. i feel like poo now.. but i can just imagine how pissed you would be first time you tried to lay out and slammed the driveshaft into the cab .. damn... hope you get it worked out bro

[m007gunit]

How Do People Do The Complete Custom Dash That Is Is Not The Stock One? Do They Use Sheet Metal Or Other Materials?

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by m007gunit

How Do People Do The Complete Custom Dash That Is Is Not The Stock One? Do They Use Sheet Metal Or Other Materials?

Some do either way.

[MoneyMike]

nice work man


what is the biggest tv do you think you could put in the dash and it still look good...?

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by MoneyMike

nice work man


what is the biggest tv do you think you could put in the dash and it still look good...?

I've seen some decent size TVs but the bigger you get it the less room you have for the HU. I've seen, and look good, upto about 10". But I think thats pushing it. More than that you might start running into clearance issues.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by BIGGERISBETTER

No biggie man. Yeah it sucks but that just gives me an opportunity to go bigger. But hey, you get a project named after you.

I do appreciate you having said something. I would have probably been fired up enough to take a hammer and punch a hole in the fiberglass when realizing the drive shaft would hit and need the notch then after drilling holes in the cab to bolt the box. I've kinda always wanted to do a full - back - cab - wall enclosure. Just didn't have the nads before to do it. I'm doing it now.

Thanks

[bmack8613]

Oh man that sux, but hey like you said your gonna go bigger. And i can only imagine how sweet the next sub enlcosure will be

[NickZigaitis]

I have finished the plans for the new sub box and I'll convert them to Bitmap and post them later.

[BIGGERISBETTER]

[NickZigaitis]

Fiberglassing Supplies

Okay guys. I keep seeing tons of threads about what supplies to use or I keep getting questions about the same topic.

As some of you may know, much of the supplies I use are of aircraft grade quality. Alot of the times I use epoxy verses resin to get extremely durable products with fiberglass.

I primarily use Wick's (see: Fiberglassing Resource Sticky), however, some of the supplies can be found cheaper at a local hobby shop.

I know, I know, I know,......some of you havn't got a hobby shop near by with these supplies. I've even heard, "They;re breaking ground on the store now". Well I have the solution.

If any of you are into RC (radio control) stuff, then you may have heard of a place called Tower Hobbies. I spoke to the owner of the local shop I go to and he gave me their website.

http://www.towerhobbies.com

I have browsed the site and compiled a list of the supplies I use and have included pictures and links directly to the item.

Hope this answers some of your questions on finding these items at reasonable costs.

I'll also post this thread in the Fiberglassing Resource thread for easy finding of this information later. I only posted it here cause this thread gets more hits than the other.

Thanks, and again I'm always available for questions on the subject.

Hand Saw (good for cutting small wood pieces. For example the frame around the TV)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSU74&P=0


Moto Saw Blade and Mandrel (Used with the Dremel tool, this will help cut access fiberglass off realy freak'n easy)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK699&P=0

1/8" X 12" X 24" Poplar Plywood (Used as filler plate. Can mildly flex to shallow curve)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAS83&P=0

5-Minute Epoxy, Small Quantity (Saves you from buying the $80+ epoxy in large bulk as a marine shop)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBH67&P=0

Micro-Ballons (Used in conjunction with epoxy or resin to thicken the adhesive to a paste like consistancy to fill gaps. used as a filler)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDS37&P=0

Now for the fiberglass. Please Pay Attention. No Matte fiberglass, Only Weave.

2 1/2" wide Fiberglass Tape (Don't be mistaken. doesn't actually stick like tape. But, its precut to 2 1/2" wide so that it can be used for nicely finished off gussets)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDML3&P=0

3/4oz 1 Square Yard Weave Fiberglass Cloth (very thin, like silk, requires many layers, but has great adaptability to curves and can be used as a substitute for base fiberglassing when stretch cloth isn't practical. Also, good for Sagging technique)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL491&P=0

2oz 1 Square Yard Weave Fiberglass Cloth (same use description as the 3/4oz fiberglass except this is a little thicker and just a hair less in quality as far as conforming to curves. But, it will curve.)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL492&P=0

5oz 1 Square Yard Weave Fiberglass Cloth (Starting to get thincker now, but the required amount of layers for strength is reducing. This fiberglass will conform to curves but the curves will need to be more shallow than what the 3/4oz or 2oz can handle.)



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL493&P=0

Fiberglass needs larger than 1 square yard or higher in oz. weight, I highly suggest Wick's Aircraft Supply to get you fiberglass.

Hope this helps.

[NickZigaitis]

Okay guys well its done. Thanksgiving weekend didn't hold me back.


Note to the owner of this item; Man, you're gonna be pleased. Almost wanted to keep it fo myself.

On with the pics. I know how S10Forum folks are junkies for pics so here they are.

These next couple of photos are of the Bondo phase of the project.







And...................












The....................












Final Product (with little description of whats going on)....................




Transition from Fiberglass to plastic made seamless.




A/C Vent smoothed out.


(Next 2 photos are of the seams and lines under the guage cluster hood have been shaved)



Notice in the second photo the access resin build up has been removed, smoothed, and not even detectable as a previous error.



Cracking along upper aspect of A/C Vent block off was repaired. Cracking was due to cardboard being used as a filler plate for the fiberglass work.



This photo show the seam between the TV's mounting bezel and the 3D frame work of the truck's bezel was shaved. Seamless integration between both item to look as though they are 1 from the very beginning. There is also a small notch in 4 areas of the framing to allow the owner to poke a small flat head screw driver in there to release the TV from the bezel. This is because the TV is a front mounting unit while mine in the original post of this thread was a rear mounting TV.

[NickZigaitis]

This photo shows a little better the 4 notches made for the owner's ability to release the TV from the bezel.







Last but not least, the infamous power and ground wire were propely soldered, heat shrinked and double shielded.

[NickZigaitis]

Before

After



Before



After



Before







After



Special note to Owner (cause its been hard to get a hold of you):

Take care when mounting the TV after paint. The tolerances are very precise. Also, I'd like to thank the owner for allowing me to be apart of his truck build as well as being cool to allow me to share photos of his bezel build up with everyone else.

Good luck and have fun watching the TV @ 80mph.

[BIGGERISBETTER]

your a freak nick.

Looks killer.