Teaching Fiberglass (part one and two)

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by dexter047

wow.. it took me a few hours, probably 6 or 7 to read this whole thread. great info, i feel as though i could go and glass just about anything after reading all of this, even though i missed out on alot of pics and all th videos. great wright up man. when i start my project in the future i will definitely revisit this thread.

Sorry about the pics. The one host I used is no longer a host site so those pics are lost. I Have them on file here but it would take hours to replenish the thread with the pics.

[vio0633]

What you need to do nick is make a CD with all the how to on it and sell it bro or give it away for people here on the forum.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by vio0633

What you need to do nick is make a CD with all the how to on it and sell it bro or give it away for people here on the forum.

Thats an idea. Making money is always good.

[ricecrispy81157]

i got a question i want to make a fiberglass sub box once i get my car.ive done aa little fiberglass work and understand everything except how do u make the rings that the subs sit flush in what type and size of router bit do u use

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by ricecrispy81157

i got a question i want to make a fiberglass sub box once i get my car.ive done aa little fiberglass work and understand everything except how do u make the rings that the subs sit flush in what type and size of router bit do u use

What ever router bit gives you a perpendicular cut to the plane of the surface which allows for the diameter required. Diameter required is the mounting ring or mounting hole diameter of the woofer you have. Then the outer trim ring will be the outside diamter of the woofer that you screw the screws through to mount it.

[mrn_89]

questions for you. im the one with the thread "help me glass my console". anyways first off ive got my frame made and im going to get me some spandex to do the first layer with. do i start by gluing it to the gauge rings first and then strech it out around the console itself? and if so how would i get the spandex to give me nice "valleys" between the gauges? im thinking maybe leave it unstretched in that area and once its glued stretch the outer area? HELP ME!! lol

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by mrn_89

questions for you. im the one with the thread "help me glass my console". anyways first off ive got my frame made and im going to get me some spandex to do the first layer with. do i start by gluing it to the gauge rings first and then strech it out around the console itself? and if so how would i get the spandex to give me nice "valleys" between the gauges? im thinking maybe leave it unstretched in that area and once its glued stretch the outer area? HELP ME!! lol

Drape the fabric over the console. Locate the rings you are talking about and hold the fabric over those rings. Apply the CA glue to the fabric at the ring. The CA glue will penetrate the fabric and adhere to the ring underneath it. Then spray the kicker and the frabric is on there. So, now you have fabric secured at the rings but loose everywhere else. What you do now is stretch it to its farthest point from those rings and stretch it tight. When I say tight, I mean tight. No pussy hands here. You'll also find out how well you made the skeleton if the rings break off. Anyway, stretch it to the farthest point. Then begin pulling in perpendicular directions. For instance, with this console.....





I glued the fabric to the perimeter of the guage platform. Then I stretched it to the top most aspect of the switch horn. I pulled it very tight and initially the fabric went straight across from the guages to the switchs and didn't have that curve between them. Then, you start pulling perpendicularly. Meaning, start pulling down the sides at different amount until the curve is achieved that you want. And then glue the sides to the bottom most aspect of the sides. Meaning the part of the console touching the floor. The apply your resin and fiberglass.

You WILL ONLY achieve the manipulation of the fabric to attain such curves if you use spandex. Fleece is not nearly as forgiving as the spandex for stretching it into odd places and shapes.

[mrn_89]

thanks man, especially for the pics...ill be trying this when i get some of that CA glue. hopefully my hobby shop carries it...ill be posting my progress in my thread for you and everyone to check out. thanks again

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by mrn_89

thanks man, especially for the pics...ill be trying this when i get some of that CA glue. hopefully my hobby shop carries it...ill be posting my progress in my thread for you and everyone to check out. thanks again

Make absolutely sure you get the Kicker, a.k.a. activator. You might need an extra set of hands. One guy pulls the fabric while the other guy lays the bead of glue and sprays the kicker.

[NickZigaitis]

Search my thread for the video clip of me showing you how to use the CA glue and Activator.

[xtucking22s]

Ive gone to walmart, micheals craft store and some other places and cant find what i need. Where do you get spandex fabric at? All I can find is spandex cloths. lol.

[B.I.G. Nick]

very instructional............

[vio0633]

Nick can you use the CA glue and kicker on wood parts for the skeleton of a console?

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by xtucking22s

Ive gone to walmart, micheals craft store and some other places and cant find what i need. Where do you get spandex fabric at? All I can find is spandex cloths. lol.

it sucks...i hit up everbody around here...no spandex...mail order next time

[vio0633]

Honestly...dont get shit from walmart for fiberglass or fillers. Everything they have is cheap.

[ricecrispy81157]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

What ever router bit gives you a perpendicular cut to the plane of the surface which allows for the diameter required. Diameter required is the mounting ring or mounting hole diameter of the woofer you have. Then the outer trim ring will be the outside diamter of the woofer that you screw the screws through to mount it.

thanks and another quesion.i made 2 bike frames out of fiberglass and i set them in the sun to cure faster and they got really hot is this bad will it make it weaker and warp

[paint toad]

Quote: Originally Posted by ricecrispy81157

thanks and another quesion.i made 2 bike frames out of fiberglass and i set them in the sun to cure faster and they got really hot is this bad will it make it weaker and warp

yep

[mrn_89]

hey nick, for my console i can do like you did and do two layers of 10oz weave and 2 layers of 5oz weave and ill be set right? too much or too little for what im doing? take a look at my thread ive got some pics up now.

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by mrn_89

hey nick, for my console i can do like you did and do two layers of 10oz weave and 2 layers of 5oz weave and ill be set right? too much or too little for what im doing? take a look at my thread ive got some pics up now.

Well, You can and then you can't. I'll explain. For the console I pictured up a couple posts, I had to do relief cutting and striping of the fiberglass. When laying the strips, many of the strips overlap and or overlay other strips. What this effectively does is create many layers from theoretically one layer. Take a look at these.............

Here a 2" wide strip of fiberglass was used. These strips were cut from one 3' x 3' section of fiberglass. The one 3 x 3 section of glass = 1 layer (technically) but as you can see from the other two photos, the layers overlay, consequently creating many layers. Follow? This what is called "Stripping". Stripping create because each strip of fiberglass is bi-directional fiberglass meaning the ply of strngth (when thinking of a compass) is north to south and east to west by where uni-direction is either east to west OR north to south. Because many strips were laid, each being bi-direction and each crossing the previous layer at angles means the ply of strength over this console is spread like a spider web of strength rather than from the front of the console to the back or from the side to the side, follow?

When laying stripes, let them lay as they lay. Meaning they will naturally want to conform to the curve. This my friend is how you accomplish fiberglassing very aggressive curves were strength can not be compromised. The thinner the strip = the more strips it will take to cover and area = the tighter the curve that can be glassed = the stronger it will be.

[mrn_89]

ok the only glass i was able to find was autozone Bondo brand weave cloth, but it doesnt say exactly what weight it is, but its the only thing they had. and my hobby shop only had up to 1.5oz. just wondering if you happened to know the weight of it so i know how many layers i need to go with...

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by mrn_89

ok the only glass i was able to find was autozone Bondo brand weave cloth, but it doesnt say exactly what weight it is, but its the only thing they had. and my hobby shop only had up to 1.5oz. just wondering if you happened to know the weight of it so i know how many layers i need to go with...

Ditch that shit and order the proper weight glass from U.S. Composites. Do a google search. You do want to do "thread fill".

[zeldalord]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Well, You can and then you can't. I'll explain. For the console I pictured up a couple posts, I had to do relief cutting and striping of the fiberglass. When laying the strips, many of the strips overlap and or overlay other strips. What this effectively does is create many layers from theoretically one layer. Take a look at these.............

Here a 2" wide strip of fiberglass was used. These strips were cut from one 3' x 3' section of fiberglass. The one 3 x 3 section of glass = 1 layer (technically) but as you can see from the other two photos, the layers overlay, consequently creating many layers. Follow? This what is called "Stripping". Stripping create because each strip of fiberglass is bi-directional fiberglass meaning the ply of strngth (when thinking of a compass) is north to south and east to west by where uni-direction is either east to west OR north to south. Because many strips were laid, each being bi-direction and each crossing the previous layer at angles means the ply of strength over this console is spread like a spider web of strength rather than from the front of the console to the back or from the side to the side, follow?

When laying stripes, let them lay as they lay. Meaning they will naturally want to conform to the curve. This my friend is how you accomplish fiberglassing very aggressive curves were strength can not be compromised. The thinner the strip = the more strips it will take to cover and area = the tighter the curve that can be glassed = the stronger it will be.

............... nick is god!

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by zeldalord

............... nick is god!

Lol, yeah right. I still learn stuff too. Hell, some of you guys put up a pretty good challenge for fixing stuff, so I guess that makes it fun,,,,,and hell all at the same time. Maybe I wasn't as clear with this thread as i thought I was being.

[mrn_89]

Quote: Originally Posted by NickZigaitis

Ditch that shit and order the proper weight glass from U.S. Composites. Do a google search. You do want to do "thread fill".

dammit i hate waiting!! lol but i will order it. you think i could go with one 10oz and one 5oz? i didnt quite ask my question good enough before. with what im doing...being only that part of the console, what oz's do i need in what layers? sorry this will be the last question for a while....lol

[NickZigaitis]

Quote: Originally Posted by mrn_89

dammit i hate waiting!! lol but i will order it. you think i could go with one 10oz and one 5oz? i didnt quite ask my question good enough before. with what im doing...being only that part of the console, what oz's do i need in what layers? sorry this will be the last question for a while....lol

Patience Luke Skywalker

10oz is too heavy. Even though it is weave fiberglass it won't conform as well as you might think. The stuff you bought already from Autozone is a cheap grade 5oz weave cloth fiberglass. Go to U.S. Composites and get the following (obviously according to the size of you need. They sell them in (per yard) lengths. Pay attention to the widths, it might save you money.

Lay down the following.

(Apply twice) 5oz bi-directional S2 fiberglass cloth (Cut into 1" wide stripes)

4oz bi-directional S2 (cut into 1.5" wide stripes)

2oz ^^^ (cut into 2" wide stripes)

Sand and Bondo or Slick Sand

[mrn_89]

thanks man that really helped me out...

[mrn_89]

on their web site i cant seem to find the 2oz glass, or the 5oz glass...is there someplace im not looking or what? lol

[ricecrispy81157]

another question when u block off the air vent where does the air go if u have it on will it cool the lcd or something or will it get on if u have the heat on

[mrn_89]

if you block off the vent it should all go to the floor maybe? just a guess

[NickZigaitis]