redoing first gen door panels

[tyhodge07]

couple question's. i am down to bare panel and wanting to go with the smooth look. is the panel sandable now to get rid of all the little bumps and such? im assuming it is, but rather have a good "yes" before i start sanding away.. also, should i wet sand it or just sand it.. im going to sand with a heavier grit than finish it off with a finer grit and wet sand that.

also, whats a good size foam or material to use behind the leather that ill be doing on the bottom of the panel and on the upper section?

and finally, where or what part/model number are the clips that i need to put the trim piece around the door handle/locks back on? and is there a place that sells them new, i got the panels off and seen the previous owner already broke the clips off and glued the trim piece on.

so i guess if someone has the trim pieces for non power window/locks for drivers/passengers doors for cheap, let me know. clips for them would be a plus, also i could use both of the arm rests for cheap also..

[tyhodge07]

anyone on the sanding the whole panel? i dont want to waste my time on it if its not a good idea and would just cause a problem with cracking or something in the future. i got alot of sanding ahead of me and ready to start on these rainy days.

[stingray0123]

If your just talking about the plastic pieces, I don't see how sanding would hurt. It would just take a long time to get it completely smooth.

Alternatively, you could fiberglass over it, or maybe some fill-able primer (not sure if that's it or if it's another name, double check first.) But I think the primer would end up cracking or peeling in the long run.

[tyhodge07]

ive never fiberglassed, to many kids around here to do it and getting colder here in indiana.. im doing this as my winter project, hopefully get the whole interior done before summer than start the outside.. the fillable primer or w/e we should call it, i thought of the cracking issue and dont want to mess with it.. i guess ill just sand it, in the long run it should last and look fine.. just going to take awhile to do it, lol... reason i asked was because i dont know as of yet how much ill be sanding off to get it to a smooth surface and if the panel would be too thin and flex and eventually crack or something.. rather be safe than waste all the time of sanding for it to happen, lol

[evanspears1]

high build primer is what your thinking of, and the general concensus is that, the texture will eventually ghost back through... plus a thick coat of primer, then color, then clear is more likely to chip off, than if you sand it smooth, then a thin coat of color, and thin coat of clear IMO

[tyhodge07]

i was hand sanding down the side (thinking of just doing the upper piece only since there is 2 sections) and it will take forever it seems like.. you think an electrical palm sander will be fine to use on the heavier grit sanding to get the texture out before the wet sanding process?

[evanspears1]

thats definetely what I would do, just make sure you use a random orbit, or I would be afraid it would make too many swirl marks that would be damn near impossible to smooth out... I dont know that for sure though... I did all my stuff by hand, took forever, but it worked...

[neo71665]

There is a big how to on smoothing interior panels already. Yes sand it smooth then I like to use some kinda adhesion promoter, then paint it just like anything else.

Whore my panels, I went back with the factory 2 tone in the blazer and as a joke used camo cloth inserts, also shaved the pocket. Picked up some spare doors for cheap to work on. They were gray and my interior is saddle/maple (tan and brown). Didn't care on color since they were gonna be painted and I got them for cheap.

In process




All installed


Yes the door handle has since been cleaned and also painted black. I wanted a semi factory look and the camo was a joke about it being my only redneck ride (4x4) I've ever owned with me and my buddies.

[tyhodge07]

i thought icame across a thread but couldnt find it again, lol. the only one i came across was the self leveling primer spray than paint the rest. could u post the link to the sanding one so i can read more of the process of sanding and grits to use.. it seems the grit im using now will take days and weeks, lol. but yours looks pretty good in the 2nd pic, the last looks good for redneck style, lol

[83LOWrange]

ok, i use a orbital sander, the palm sander that you mentioned will work, but be carefull not to scratch the panel deep

first i knock alot of the texture off with 80, then 120, then 220. prime block with 300, color, clear, and if you want to you can wet sand with 1500 and polish

[neo71665]

I used a random palm sander and it turned out fine. I also took the plastic down to 400 before I ever painted. Primed it and wet sanded it with 800, painted wet sanding it between like 6 coats if I remember right, cleared with 6 or 8 more and went from 1000, 1500, 2000, and finally buffing compound.

The main key is to get rid of the most texture you can up from and keep everything glass smooth from there on out.

[tyhodge07]

i think ive been using 120. looks like i need to go lower to get the texture off. may explain why its takin forever to hand sand it, lol thanks

[neo71665]

Yeah start with 80 or 100. I started with 100 cause the one piece I done with 80 just cut too deep for my likings with a power sander.

[tyhodge07]

sanded some with the palm sander today, until i got tired of doin it, lol. good thing i plan to make the interior last all winter

the top flat area i got to where i would like, i could go alittle more smoother with it, but i figured ill leave it just alittle rough for the primer to stick too.

[evanspears1]

what grits have you worked through so far... have any problems with the paper loading up while using the sander?

[tyhodge07]

on the palm sander i used 150 or something around there.. i didnt want to use to high of a grit first using it and found out it had done the job just fine.. ill prob use the same grit with the palm sander than wet sand the rest. i think ill be wet sanding more jumping from the 150 or so to a finer grit, but it has seemed to do the job just fine with only 2 grits of sand paper.

this jumping from different grits of sandpaper like this is bringing back memories of when i customized model cars, lol.. i always cheated and worked more with the wet sanding than i really needed to. guess i am used to it and it has worked in the past so why not now.

[evanspears1]

whatever works best for ya... just keep postin pics of progress...

[tyhodge07]

will do, after the panel is down to smooth, ill start on the upper piece for t he leather and the bottom once i cut the board. need to find someone with a zig saw

[llorracs93s10]

How did you guys take the top carpeted area off the panels themselves? I was thnking of doing the top carpet spot in leather, also the bottom region leather while deleting the vent, than the rest that is plastic, paint it black to go with my rest of the interior plan.

U think that would look good? I plan to do a glossy black dash, the radio bezel will be red, the center console red, than like stated above for the door panels.

[tyhodge07]

when you take the panel off the top part is held on by 4 rivets (on mine atleast) and than 6 or so nuts. the nuts you will need to use needle knose plyers to get them off since their down into the panel some.

on the map pocket area when you pull the material off that, there is plastic rivets, you can drill them out and than cut the rest. you want to keep the thin plastic piece to trace onto some 1/4 in mdf so it will be the right size to fill the spot where the pocket was.

on mine i went ahead and cut the vent out since its just extra noice comin into the cab, but the map pocket piece will have the cut out for that so your location will be right on when you trace it.

im wrapping my upper in leather and also the lower (map pocket area) in leather. im planning to do the upper in red leather than the upper sanded down trim piece painted red, than the rest of the panel black.

thats my plan atleast, but tossing the idea around since at some point i plan to paint my truck a blue color and the blue wouldnt match the red, so may just do solid black and suade, not sure.

note: in the upper area, when u pull the material off, save that. you can trace that onto the new material and padding to make it easier and fit on the same way as the old came off. also when you get the map pocket section removed you will see a little raised circle area for a clip or something, you will need to cut that off the panel.

[neo71665]

I shaved my vent the same way but I used 1/8 inch thick plexiglass (what I had laying around) to make the new panel. I drilled holes in a grid for the vent so it still vents threw the carpet. I just recovered the lower part in tan speaker box carpet.

My padding was shot on the upper part so I used some 1/8 inch thick closed cell foam. I then sewed it to the back of the new cloth in the factory tuck and roll pattern. The top on mine is cotton canvas.

[drunkmonkeys112]

how do you guys reattach the parts of the panel you took off? from the looks of it on mine its like plastic welded on. how would you suggest i reattach them?

[tyhodge07]

you drill holes in the new wood panel than (cant think of the name) gets hammered in, than you drill holes through the panel and it is than screwed on from the inside of the panel. the top part you just use the same bolts. for the strip at the top where you remove the metal rivets to get the top section with the material off you can use small screws a nd nuts and just trim the to fit and loctite the bolts on or use locknuts.

anyways, here are some updated pics of what i have gotten done, you can see what all i got left, and this is takin forever, lol

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by tyhodge07

when you take the panel off the top part is held on by 4 rivets (on mine atleast) and than 6 or so nuts. the nuts you will need to use needle knose plyers to get them off since their down into the panel some.

on the map pocket area when you pull the material off that, there is plastic rivets, you can drill them out and than cut the rest. you want to keep the thin plastic piece to trace onto some 1/4 in mdf so it will be the right size to fill the spot where the pocket was.

on mine i went ahead and cut the vent out since its just extra noice comin into the cab, but the map pocket piece will have the cut out for that so your location will be right on when you trace it.

im wrapping my upper in leather and also the lower (map pocket area) in leather. im planning to do the upper in red leather than the upper sanded down trim piece painted red, than the rest of the panel black.

thats my plan atleast, but tossing the idea around since at some point i plan to paint my truck a blue color and the blue wouldnt match the red, so may just do solid black and suade, not sure.

note: in the upper area, when u pull the material off, save that. you can trace that onto the new material and padding to make it easier and fit on the same way as the old came off. also when you get the map pocket section removed you will see a little raised circle area for a clip or something, you will need to cut that off the panel.

ok ,so as for the top region, it is not flat, so wat do you use to take the shape of it to than replace the old carpet piece? I mean if its confusing let me know.

[neo71665]

I used plastic epoxy to glue the top back on (most people don't take it apart like I did).

The handle bezel is held on with metal clips. When taking this off your better off snipping the ones on it with a pair of tin snips and getting new ones. If the panel has aged in the sun or with time you will snap the plastic tabs off the bezel if you try to pry them off.

The cloth part has studs on the backing panel, you just reuse the speed nuts in the correct direction. I guess you could put them back on upside down like they were if you like the challenge.

The bottom part I put screws in the panel before I covered it and screw nuts on the backside of the panel.

I coulda swore there used to be a how to on taking a first gen panel apart. Did it get lost with the rest of the stuff?

[tyhodge07]

there was, i read it the other day lol.. that is the one i ended up coming across right before i started on my panel and how i figured out how to go at it and get it all apart. ill search and i think it needs to be moved to the how-to's section because i dont think it was.

[tyhodge07]

here it is, it is in the how-to's although i think it needs to be retitled

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/i...r-panels-7068/

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

I used plastic epoxy to glue the top back on (most people don't take it apart like I did).

The handle bezel is held on with metal clips. When taking this off your better off snipping the ones on it with a pair of tin snips and getting new ones. If the panel has aged in the sun or with time you will snap the plastic tabs off the bezel if you try to pry them off.

The cloth part has studs on the backing panel, you just reuse the speed nuts in the correct direction. I guess you could put them back on upside down like they were if you like the challenge.

The bottom part I put screws in the panel before I covered it and screw nuts on the backside of the panel.

I coulda swore there used to be a how to on taking a first gen panel apart. Did it get lost with the rest of the stuff?

what i meant was if i wanted the top carpet part to be smooth like the bottom would be without the vent/pocket, how would u make a piece to replicate the shape of the carpet piece since it has a curve at the top.

[neo71665]

Only thing I can figure you're talking about is making the top cloth insert (A) match the bottom carpet part (B).



A- has a panel the cloth is glued to, pull old stuff off and recover however you like

B- you make a smooth panel to fit here, cover however you like

Is that what you asking?

I stole your pic TyHodge07, hope you don't mind

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

Only thing I can figure you're talking about is making the top cloth insert (A) match the bottom carpet part (B).



A- has a panel the cloth is glued to, pull old stuff off and recover however you like

B- you make a smooth panel to fit here, cover however you like

Is that what you asking?

I stole your pic TyHodge07, hope you don't mind

yea i just meant like i didnt want the indents or whatever u want to call it that the original has. I like to have it smooth across like the bottom would be.

[tyhodge07]

you wont have any indents once you replace the padding underneath the new material.

i finally got my passenger's side panel almost fully done and ready to clean and start on the other painting priming and such.. worked on it about 3-4 hours today, all that is left is going around the outer edge of the panel, but the main stuff is done.

i put the pics on my site (not finished yet so bare with the unorganized look and the web server i got it on, waiting on my other domain to expire to rename it.)

the new pics from today are the last 4 in the projects section?:
My site with more pics

Also Neo, i dont mind u usin my pics

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by tyhodge07

you wont have any indents once you replace the padding underneath the new material.

i finally got my passenger's side panel almost fully done and ready to clean and start on the other painting priming and such.. worked on it about 3-4 hours today, all that is left is going around the outer edge of the panel, but the main stuff is done.

i put the pics on my site (not finished yet so bare with the unorganized look and the web server i got it on, waiting on my other domain to expire to rename it.)

the new pics from today are the last 4 in the projects section?:
My site with more pics

Also Neo, i dont mind u usin my pics

looks good man. I hope i can go through with mine and actually do something...lol. I was excited to get started on mine, than the plam sander i used annoyed the hell outta my hand with teh vibrations...oh well price you pay to play right?

[tyhodge07]

oh once i started, i didnt know what i got myself into, lol. it seemed like it would take forever and thinkin i got another panel to do the whole time only made it worst. i used a palm sander on most of mine than hand sanded around the corners and rounded area's. its saved my hand from alot of pain. and yes, the pay off should be good. atleast i hope so.

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by tyhodge07

oh once i started, i didnt know what i got myself into, lol. it seemed like it would take forever and thinkin i got another panel to do the whole time only made it worst. i used a palm sander on most of mine than hand sanded around the corners and rounded area's. its saved my hand from alot of pain. and yes, the pay off should be good. atleast i hope so.

yea, i think i am going to really try to get my interior done this winter. I get my chops busted by my friends, mainly the girls that poke fun at the truck not being painted and all. Which sux, cuz i want it painted, but if the interior ws nice looking, atleast i could say hey, its nice inside, come sit in ther and see....lol

[tyhodge07]

lol, im just hoping to get this interior all done or close to finished this winter, than i can start on the outside this summer. its gonna be cold here soon with no door panel's, so hopefully i can get them finished and back on than get to work on the dash and carpet etc.. but my outside looks good so no one has been hatin on that, other than it all bein stock, lol

[llorracs93s10]

Quote: Originally Posted by tyhodge07

lol, im just hoping to get this interior all done or close to finished this winter, than i can start on the outside this summer. its gonna be cold here soon with no door panel's, so hopefully i can get them finished and back on than get to work on the dash and carpet etc.. but my outside looks good so no one has been hatin on that, other than it all bein stock, lol

well ihave one luxury over you, i have two rides, so i can park my truck and work on it. Its just i dont have the space here, so it woudl have to be a 25min ride ther to it. So its not like i can work on it every day.

[tyhodge07]

yea, i wish i still had 2 cars. i once had 3 at one time than had none, lol. i sold my 3 and we (ex) bought a family car. when we split up, it left me with nothing again. so now a single father and 1 car, lol. 1 of the 3 i sold for the family car was a 91 s10 with 68k miles and new tranny, paid 200 for that to have a project other than the lowrider i had, than sold them all.

[llorracs93s10]

its cool, this one will come out good in the end, jsut dont cut corners!

[tyhodge07]

im picky, so no corners goin to be cut. lol. hopefully i can be sent off for the national guard soon so the money will roll in while im gone to get it all done by a shop than it be finished when i get back, haha

[tyhodge07]

anyone know if walmart has decent quality black leather? (not really leather, i think its more of a fake leather) how nice of stuff is it, would it hold up fine for interior use?

[evanspears1]

I have some walmart fake leather stuff on my panels (second gen though, smaller area...) it is the kind that is like a dark charcoal, and black checker pattern, It look great IMO, its the one thing I always get complements on...its lasted good for 2-3 months so far...

[tyhodge07]

you remember what it ran you for a yard? im thinkin ill only need a yard to do my panels, the lower on both doors and the little area above the arm rest. if that.

[evanspears1]

Yes, actually I do, it was 7.94 a yard. and on my truck, 1 yard made enough for 2 sets of doors. I can get pics tomorrow if you would like to see it. I think the padding I used under the cloth was 2.94 a yard also...

[evanspears1]

but, anyway, I def. think 1 yard should be enough to do a set of 1st gen panels, based on what I can tell from pics anyway...

[S-10MASTER]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

You should have used the desert camo instead. I think It would match more. Not saying it looks good It just would go with the tan more. Or is your truck green or something?

[tyhodge07]

Quote: Originally Posted by evanspears1

Yes, actually I do, it was 7.94 a yard. and on my truck, 1 yard made enough for 2 sets of doors. I can get pics tomorrow if you would like to see it. I think the padding I used under the cloth was 2.94 a yard also...

yea throw up some pics, inspiration never hurts, lol.. 12 bucks not bad for material on the door panel's, i think ima grab some this week and get that knocked out.. actually maybe next, lol. forgot i skipped the bills this past week.

[neo71665]

Quote: Originally Posted by S-10MASTER

You should have used the desert camo instead. I think It would match more. Not saying it looks good It just would go with the tan more. Or is your truck green or something?

The body is dark green and tan, wanted something that tied into the outside a bit. Its prolly gonna get tweed this summer anyways as I don't really like the smooth look.

[flhthemi]

Quote: Originally Posted by neo71665

I used plastic epoxy to glue the top back on (most people don't take it apart like I did).

The handle bezel is held on with metal clips. When taking this off your better off snipping the ones on it with a pair of tin snips and getting new ones. If the panel has aged in the sun or with time you will snap the plastic tabs off the bezel if you try to pry them off.


I coulda swore there used to be a how to on taking a first gen panel apart. Did it get lost with the rest of the stuff?

Whe I pulled mine of a made sure to NOT break those clips! I used a big flat plade screwdriver and pryed them off as much as I could without breaking the plastic tabs. Then using 2 flat blade screwdrivers, one on each end of the clip, I pried a little on each end of the clip and kinda walked the clip up the tab. Most of them cam flying off at a high rate of speed! I broke a few plastic tabs. Now here is the slick part! reassembly: I took a propane torch and heated the clips just a little bit, while holding them with a pair of plyers. You only need enough heat to cause the clip to melt the plastic tab as you slide it onto the tab! You can even get the clips back on the broken tabs if they didn't break off too short!!! Whoo Hoo!

The link to the Interactive door panel replacement: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/i...r-panels-7068/

Anudder thing you should keep in mind when painting the plastic parts...you need GOOD paint adhesion. SEM makes paints and primers and adhesion promotors for plastics and vinyls and the stuff works good. It takes a few days for it to cure to the point that it won't peel/scratch off but it will eventually cure hard enough to be usefull. I clear coated mine just to make sure they didnt scratch easily.

My completed door panel!

[tyhodge07]

looks good

alright, im to the adhesive promotor stage, when i prime this what primer would be best or should i use? im usin all dupont in a rattle can for my panel's btw. as far as primer do i want the sandable primer or high filler primer?

so far i plan to lay down adhesive promotor, than whichever primer is best to use, wet sand, more primer, wet sand, than lay down the black paint, and than a coat of clear, wet sand, another coat of clear.

everything sound about right before i go at it once i find out which primer i should use?

[nathanx140]

Quote: Originally Posted by flhthemi

Whe I pulled mine of a made sure to NOT break those clips! I used a big flat plade screwdriver and pryed them off as much as I could without breaking the plastic tabs. Then using 2 flat blade screwdrivers, one on each end of the clip, I pried a little on each end of the clip and kinda walked the clip up the tab. Most of them cam flying off at a high rate of speed! I broke a few plastic tabs. Now here is the slick part! reassembly: I took a propane torch and heated the clips just a little bit, while holding them with a pair of plyers. You only need enough heat to cause the clip to melt the plastic tab as you slide it onto the tab! You can even get the clips back on the broken tabs if they didn't break off too short!!! Whoo Hoo!

The link to the Interactive door panel replacement: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/i...r-panels-7068/

Anudder thing you should keep in mind when painting the plastic parts...you need GOOD paint adhesion. SEM makes paints and primers and adhesion promotors for plastics and vinyls and the stuff works good. It takes a few days for it to cure to the point that it won't peel/scratch off but it will eventually cure hard enough to be usefull. I clear coated mine just to make sure they didnt scratch easily.

My completed door panel!

awesome...so how much did it cost you to do that and how long did it take. I really want to do that with the panels in my truck except in orange and black.