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#1 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
[How-to] Install floor shifter and console from a SUV into your pickup
Ive had this thing sitting around for quite some time, just never had the opportunity to put it in. Well the upcoming show motivated me, and since it seems to be a pretty popular mod lately, I thought it would be a good subject for a how-to...Here we go!
First thing you need is PARTS. Heres a list of parts I needed to setup the new shifter with my old tranny: All these are for a 97 Jimmy. - Floor shifter cable - Tranny bracket - Shift lever - Small clip - Large clip |
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#2 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Of course you need the floorshifter and console as well..
- 97+ S-Series SUV console - Floor shifter assembly - Floor shifter mounting bracket - Boot and handle - Hardware |
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#3 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
You can start the install on the inside or outside, it doesn't matter. However I started mine on the outside because it was already on the lift, and I wanted to know it could work before I went and installed the shifter.
First order of business is to disassemble the stock shifting assembly. The truck Im working on here is a 94, so it has this horrible mechanical linkage. All 95+ trucks should have a cable linkage, and will just pop right off the shifting lever on the tranny. |
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#4 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Once all that crap is gone, you need to install the shift lever on the tranny.
Right away I noticed a problem. The shift detent lever on my trans is too short to mount the arm facing in, so I have to mount it facing out, which puts it in the wrong position to reach all the lower gears. Im going to have to machine it. NOTE: Check beforehand what your setup looks like. If you have a big black plastic switch on the side of the tranny, you should already have this lever installed. |
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#5 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
I marked with black marker what needs to be machined out so I can position the lever further forward and get the full range of gears in the truck. Ill machine it out with a die grinder and carbide bit.
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#6 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Reinstall the shift lever at its new position, and tighten the 15mm bolt down snug. You can see now that it sits forward a lot more.
At this point you can install the tranny bracket as well. It fits right into the corner bolts for thr trans pan, so simply remove the 13mm bolts, put the bracket up, then retighten them. Do not overtighten these bolts..the trans is aluminum and you will strip them out easily. |
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#7 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now that the bracketry is set up, youll need to run the cable. The cable runs out from the inside, but before you pullup the carpet, youll need to knock the plate out of the floor board.
You can see the plate here on the left, right next to the exhaust pipe and between all those fuel lines. Its also almost directly across from the tailstock of the tranny, on the right. To remove it, youll need to squeeze the tabs shut with a pair of pliers, then simply push the plate upwards with a large screwdriver. The top of it is sealed, so you might need to tap the screwdriver with a hammer to knock the plate loose. If you have a 95+ truck, youll just need to remove the old cable from the hole at this point. |
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#8 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now its time to move to the inside..Pull up the trim and carpet from the drivers side floor. Right before the seat youll see the hole so just run the new cable through there.
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#9 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
The rubber boot around the cable simply pushes down and locks into place.
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#10 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Underside shot..
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#11 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now youll nee to route the cable inside the bracket. Simply feed the cable through, and itll snap into place. Here is where youll use the large metal clip..push it up into the space and itll lock the cable in and prevent it from falling out.
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#12 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now snap the end of the cable onto the shift lever, and put the trans in Park (all the way forward)..
At the tranny bracket, the cable tension can be adjusted by moving it in and out. Once it seems snug and there isnt too much slack or tension on the cable, you push that yellow clip in and itll set the tension where you need it. Last edited by AVTekk : 08-10-2003 at 03:28 AM. |
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#13 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now that everything on the tranny is ready to go, we can mount the shifter. And to mount the shifter, we have to get the mounting bracket where we need it. First thing you need to do is cut 2 holes in the carpet. Theres a hump in the floor, and you can see it sticking through the left hole. The bracket sits right after that hump, so cut the hole there and where the beck end of the braket winds up. Your holes may not look like mine, because I had a different center console in here at one time.
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#14 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
That stud in my floor is from my old console, So I thought Id get lucky and itll line right up with this new console. That wasnt the case, and I had to drill another hole in the bracket 1/2" forward to get the bracket to sit right after the hump in the floor.
At this point, you should be done, and bolt the bracket down somehow, using large stubby self tapping screws or have a friend help you install some bolts. |
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#15 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
However I didnt like the position of the shifter. Even in the stock trucks, they sit kinda far away from the dash, and closer to the driver..Im kinda tall, so I didnt need it that close, so I decided to move the whole thing 1" forward. To do that I had to redrill the bracket again, this time 1/2" back from the original hole. I then cut the end of the braket right off, since it would interfere with the hump in the floor, and welded the whole thing down. I dont plan on taking this out any time soon and I lost the flange to bolt it down and welding just seemed easier.
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#16 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now that the bracket is taken care of, we can install the shifter. First however, well need to disable the lockout function of it. If you are lucky enough to have the wiring harness and stuff for the shifter, than wire the lockout thing into an ignition source. Otherwise we need to rig it.
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#17 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
A zip-tie makes quick work of it...
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#18 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
The shifter bolts down to the bracket via three 13mm nuts.
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#19 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Youll need to cut another hole in your carpet near the dash to bring the cable up to the shifter. I had a hole there from the other console so thats what I used.
The cable housing snaps right onto the front of the shifter bracket, and the cable end snaps right onto the shifter. Here is where you use the small metal clip to keep the cable from slipping out. Last edited by AVTekk : 08-09-2003 at 04:40 PM. |
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#20 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now that the shifter is bolted down, its time to secure the console. Place the unit over the shifter, and start bolting it down through the cup holders via two 13mm bolts.
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#21 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now slide the shiters boot and handle onto the shifter assembly..the boot will clip into the console, and theres a small c-clip that pushes into the handle to keep it locked down.
Last edited by AVTekk : 08-10-2003 at 02:53 AM. |
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#22 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Move to the inside of the armrest, and theres 2 more bolts to tighten. These two studs in the floor are from the old console, you may or may not have them. If not, just run a bolt through the floor. Here I used a couple sheetmetal screws and washers. The studs would have lined up if I hadnt move the console 1" forward.
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#23 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Thats it. Heres the completed basic install..
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#24 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Now that everything is hooked up and it works, Its time to finish dissambling the rest of the stock setup. I don't like to get rid of everything until the very end because you never know if youll be able to finish your project or not..
The 94 column is a first gen column and requires a hammer and punch to knock the pin out to remove the shifter arm. All 95+ trucks will have a single bolt in the bottom to remove the arm. |
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#25 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
The rest of the shifting assembly is in the engine bay..The mechanical linkage removes by pulling the clip straight up off the columns arm..
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#26 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
As for reference, heres what the setup should look like in a 95+ truck. You can see the large muti-function switch on the side of the tranny, and that the arm is facing in and at a forward angle..
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#27 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Notes:
There is a bit or wiring that still needs to be done after the install is complete. I didnt have the chance to hook up the light in the shift gate, so Ill need to do that soon. Also Id like to hook up the lockout feature so it locks the truck in park when I turn it off; Ill need to pick up the wiring pigatils for that. In the future I will also need to replace the columns sleeve with one from a manual truck to get rid of the hole from the old shifter. I will update this thread with pics/info when I get around to completing them. |
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#28 |
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Registered User
Age: 36
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11
Location: Austin TX User is: OffLine ![]() |
Just wanted to add a little bit to this.
On the 700R4 and the early 4L60E 87-93 years. You have to change out the gear selector detent rod. Its about a 8 dollar part. But it does involve taking the transmission pan down and removing the old detend and installing the new one from inside the tranny. I think that would have solved your problem with having to grind that shifter link that you did. Although if that is a solution it beats taking your tranny pan down , unless you need a fluid change anyways. Good job bro. Ill be doing mine soon. Ill post pics of it for you. Also let me know if and when you find out the wiring for the safety switch. Last edited by jax : 08-11-2003 at 10:36 AM. |
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#29 |
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Registered User
Age: 30
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 394
Location: Geneva, IL User is: OffLine ![]() |
GREAT how-to, i hope to be making use of it shortly.
Just a little question. with this item off e-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...y=33 695&rd=1 This has the shifter, console, and some hardware. what other parts would i need to install this on a 2003 S-10? any help would be great. Thanks |
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#30 |
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Age: 27
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 24,835
Location: NJ User is: OffLine ![]() ![]() |
Wow! If you can get it at that price, jump on it. If your truck now is a 95+, youll just need a shifter cable for that Blazer. If it is older, you will ned the brackets and other parts I showed in my how-to.
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#31 |
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Insane Network Engineer
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,046
Location: Pittsburgh, PA. User is: OffLine ![]() |
Waste... Instead of trying to grind down the shift plate for a 700r4 , he just needs the newer style detent rod from a later model 4l60e (95 and up) They fit the 700r4, you can look at my semi how-to at www.pghconsulting.net/howto
Now, if you already have a 95 and up truck, all you need is the center shift cable from GM... The rest is cake... |
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#32 |
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Registered User
Age: 27
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 5,825
Location: Grand Rapids, MI User is: OffLine ![]() |
Nice work Dave, ill stick it for a while.
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#33 |