How I Built My Doubler

DieselS10 · 02-02-2009, 02:12 AM

There have been a few on here that have mentioned that they would like me to do a write up on building a doubler. Now keep in mind that I only have experience with two doublers, one being a 203/241 in which I used an adapter that WMS made for my application, and the one that I built to replace it, which is a 241/241 setup, so I have very limited experience with these. I'll tell what I did and if anyone has anything to add then feel free.

Having never been into an aluminum transfer case before, the first thing that I did was tear it down to familiarize myself with the internals. It didn't take long at all to realize how easy it would be to pull this off. After spliting the case I removed everything from the front section ot the case where the gear reduction planetary is located. Then, after marking it where it needed to be cut off, I placed the front section on a band saw and removed the section that goes out towards the front output just past the range selector lever. After getting it cut off and ground square, I took a piece of aluminum and cut it so that it could be welded into the area that I had just removed so that it could be sealed up with a single flat plate/adapter that will be made later. Then, not being set up to weld aluminum at the time, I took the case and the piece of aluminum that I had cut to fit to a local welding shop and had it welded in place. Here are some pics of it at that point.

From there I had to figure out how to build the adapter plate that would bolt to the section pictured above to the second case. Not having a lathe large enough to machine the area to accept the second case (that would look just like the rear of the transmission) I decided to go a different route. I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall. After doing that it would fit on my lathe. Then I machined it down untill it looked like a 1/2" thick plate.

Then I found a piece of 1/2" plate steel laying in the shop so I used it to build the adapter plate. All I did was lay the front section that was in the first pic down on the 1/2" plate and scribed it with an awl. After that I took the time to cut it out with the band saw so that it wouldn't require much grinding, then I marked all of the holes that would bolt it to the section in the first pic and drilled them including two extra holes that I drilled and tapped into the new section of aluminum that I had welded into it. At this point I marked center on the plate where the output shaft would go through it and to locate where the plate in the last pic would be welded on. This is a VERY important step because that is what centers the second case to align where the shaft will exit the first. To do this, I found center and drilled an 1/8" hole through the plate and from there I measured out to where the ring in the last pic would EXACTLY center, this can't be wrong. After marking where the ring would weld on, I cut out the larger hole where the shaft would go through. and welded the ring in the last pic to the plate and drilled the holes that were in the ring through the larger plate. Something else to consider before welding the plate is how you want the second case clocked. My second case was already used in the truck behind the 203 in the factory clocked position and worked fine there, so that is what I set it at. Here is what it looked like at this point.

Something else I didn't mention earlier is the squared off section in the lower left hand corner of the adapter. Before I cut the adapter plate out I decided to leave that section so that it would hang down below the rear transfer case so that I could modify it later for a mount to support them with a cross member.

At this point it was time to "build" the shaft that would go from the first case to the second. Before I start, it would probably be better in every way to have a custom shaft built and sumner machine works sells them for around $225, but I'm to cheap and prefer to figure out my own method. To do this, I re-installed the planetary and everything related to it and the range selector lever so that it wouldn't have to come back apart and bolted the adapter plate to the rear of the first case and measured the depth from the planetary to the back of the adapter, then I measured how far the input shaft goes into the second case. That determined how long the shaft needed to be. Then I took the original output shaft from the front case and cut it off just behind where it exits the platery. It is hollow and has about a 1/2" hole through it. Then I went to a local transmission shop and bought an old output shaft from a 4l60 since the front 241 had a 32 spline output shaft and the rear 241 had a 27 spline (4L60) input. Then I cut it off 1" longer than it needed to be measuring from the rear of it and placed it in the lathe and turned that extra inch that I left on it down to where it would fit very snug into the 1/2" hole in the first shaft. Then I "pressed" the second section where it was turned down into the hole in the original shaft and chucked it up in the lathe and turned it to verify that it was straight and welded the two together with my mig. I know that isn't the best method, but it has held up to over 400lb/ft of torque and 38" tires pulling combined truck & trailer weights reaching over 18,000 lbs, so I doubt anyone with an S10 will cause a shaft built this way to fail.

At this point it was time to unbolt the adapter from the first case and bolt it to the second case since those bolts come from the front side of it and will be located inside the rear of the first case, then I slide the shaft in and bolted it back to the first case. For gaskets I just cleaned the sufaces and applied RTV. To fill the front case I just removed the VSS in the top of the front case and added fluid until it was over the planetary. The "proper" way to do it would be to add a fill plug to the adapter plate at the proper fill level and also to drill and tap the adapter plate near the top and bottom and add 90* pipe fitting with a section of clear tubing clamped between them so that you could monitor the fluid level. I will do that at a later date.

Here are some pics of all of it assembled.

Anyway, that's my story, hope it will help someone and if I wasn't clear on anything or if anyone has any questions or anything to had just feel free.

chevyrules05 · 02-02-2009, 02:14 AM

very educational

Baggey22 · 02-02-2009, 09:44 AM

So what exactly does a doubler DO for you?

DieselS10 · 02-02-2009, 10:15 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

So what exactly does a doubler DO for you?

It adds another 2.72:1 gear reduction into the mix which allows me to VERY slowly crawl the truck through difficult sections with almost no throttle required.

Without the doubler locked into low range my crawl ratio (without factoring in torque converter slippage) is 27.72:1, with the doubler locked into low range my crawl ratio is 75.41:1 and this is with a street driven setup that happily runs 65 mph at 1750 rpm. You get the best of both worlds. Adding the doubler into the drivetrain also requires a longer front driveshaft which helps with the angle of it.

Speedy2222 · 02-02-2009, 11:44 AM

there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!!

black_blazer · 02-26-2009, 07:28 PM

Thanks Diesel great write up !

DieselS10 · 02-27-2009, 12:50 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by black_blazer

Thanks Diesel great write up !

No problem, I just hope people who are considering such an upgrade can benefit from it and see that with a little creativity and research can save themselves some cash.

***98layinframe*** · 02-27-2009, 12:57 AM

very nice write up!

might have to sticky that in the how to section..

timmy_noma · 03-19-2009, 04:55 PM

Very cool How-To.

Quote: Originally Posted by Speedy2222

there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!!

LOL. Trucks was awesome when Stacy was on it. It's still a good show but he had the best projects.

Grohe · 03-19-2009, 09:33 PM

I never even heard of a doubler before, very educational.

***Donahue*** · 03-26-2009, 11:40 PM

this is very similar to my D&D 231 doubler.

DieselS10 · 03-27-2009, 01:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

this is very similar to my D&D 231 doubler.

Tim99Zr2 · 03-27-2009, 01:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Speedy2222

there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!!

hell my truck did that with 33s, 4.88s, 5spd, and a 231

***Donahue*** · 03-27-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Tim99Zr2

hell my truck did that with 33s, 4.88s, 5spd, and a 231

no, its not the same. with a doubler, you can get out and let it idle over rocks the size of the truck. mine will almost idle up a verticle ledge, and i am sure if i had more than a 2.8, it would. with a doubler, you can pretty much steer, and not have to ever touch the gas or the brakes.

DieselS10 · 03-27-2009, 09:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

no, its not the same. with a doubler, you can get out and let it idle over rocks the size of the truck. mine will almost idle up a verticle ledge, and i am sure if i had more than a 2.8, it would. with a doubler, you can pretty much steer, and not have to ever touch the gas or the brakes.

Exactly.

Something else to consider is that the crawl ratio with an automatic isn't nearly as numerically accurate as they are with a standard because of torque converter slippage. Even with an automatic I don't have to touch the gas pedal when it's in double low. I have to hold the brake to keep it still and if it's in 2wd double low I can't keep the rear tires from spinning unless I try to push the brake pedal through the floor, other wise the rear tires just set and spin slowly. To put it into perspective it will run a hair over 15 mph floor boarded in over-drive when both transfer cases are locked in low. I'll film it sometime, it's kinda funny.

blazetake2 · 05-07-2009, 04:31 PM

so diesel is there ne way i can send you my two 241's and have you turn them into a single unit? Doubler!?

Golana · 05-07-2009, 07:43 PM

hey, this was really cool!

i dont know if i should build a doubler for my 4x4 rig, but im thinking about it... now, i dont have a lathe or anything, so it might be a little bit harder for me to do this stuff... but i would be interested in trying if its worth the time.

"I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall."

so this part you are talking about is just the piece that is on the back of the transmission after you take the transfer case off?

ive got a NP203 transfer case, do you have any pics of how you built that one?

Thanks Bro!

DieselS10 · 05-07-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blazetake2

so diesel is there ne way i can send you my two 241's and have you turn them into a single unit? Doubler!?

I'll PM you.

DieselS10 · 05-07-2009, 11:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Golana

hey, this was really cool!

i dont know if i should build a doubler for my 4x4 rig, but im thinking about it... now, i dont have a lathe or anything, so it might be a little bit harder for me to do this stuff... but i would be interested in trying if its worth the time.

"I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall."

so this part you are talking about is just the piece that is on the back of the transmission after you take the transfer case off?

ive got a NP203 transfer case, do you have any pics of how you built that one?

Thanks Bro!

Yes on the part that is on the back of the tranny, but it has to be a steel one and not aluminum, unless your using aluminum for the adapter plate also. They could be welded together as well.

I didn't build the 203 adapter that I had. I am good friends with the guy that originated the 203 doubler and he built it for me. It requires far more machine work than the 231/241 doublers.

I want to add that if your not planning to do any rock crawling or terribly difficult technical wheeling then your probably not going to ever benefit from a doubler.

Golana · 05-08-2009, 12:54 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10

Yes on the part that is on the back of the tranny, but it has to be a steel one and not aluminum, unless your using aluminum for the adapter plate also. They could be welded together as well.

I didn't build the 203 adapter that I had. I am good friends with the guy that originated the 203 doubler and he built it for me. It requires far more machine work than the 231/241 doublers.

I want to add that if your not planning to do any rock crawling or terribly difficult technical wheeling then your probably not going to ever benefit from a doubler.

ok, thats cool. i sent you a PM because i didnt get the email that anyone had replied to this thread yet hahaa! so ive asked you a question about another purpose for the doubler in the PM...

Thanks again Bro

02-02-2009, 02:12 AM	#1
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	How I Built My Doubler There have been a few on here that have mentioned that they would like me to do a write up on building a doubler. Now keep in mind that I only have experience with two doublers, one being a 203/241 in which I used an adapter that WMS made for my application, and the one that I built to replace it, which is a 241/241 setup, so I have very limited experience with these. I'll tell what I did and if anyone has anything to add then feel free. Having never been into an aluminum transfer case before, the first thing that I did was tear it down to familiarize myself with the internals. It didn't take long at all to realize how easy it would be to pull this off. After spliting the case I removed everything from the front section ot the case where the gear reduction planetary is located. Then, after marking it where it needed to be cut off, I placed the front section on a band saw and removed the section that goes out towards the front output just past the range selector lever. After getting it cut off and ground square, I took a piece of aluminum and cut it so that it could be welded into the area that I had just removed so that it could be sealed up with a single flat plate/adapter that will be made later. Then, not being set up to weld aluminum at the time, I took the case and the piece of aluminum that I had cut to fit to a local welding shop and had it welded in place. Here are some pics of it at that point. From there I had to figure out how to build the adapter plate that would bolt to the section pictured above to the second case. Not having a lathe large enough to machine the area to accept the second case (that would look just like the rear of the transmission) I decided to go a different route. I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall. After doing that it would fit on my lathe. Then I machined it down untill it looked like a 1/2" thick plate. Then I found a piece of 1/2" plate steel laying in the shop so I used it to build the adapter plate. All I did was lay the front section that was in the first pic down on the 1/2" plate and scribed it with an awl. After that I took the time to cut it out with the band saw so that it wouldn't require much grinding, then I marked all of the holes that would bolt it to the section in the first pic and drilled them including two extra holes that I drilled and tapped into the new section of aluminum that I had welded into it. At this point I marked center on the plate where the output shaft would go through it and to locate where the plate in the last pic would be welded on. This is a VERY important step because that is what centers the second case to align where the shaft will exit the first. To do this, I found center and drilled an 1/8" hole through the plate and from there I measured out to where the ring in the last pic would EXACTLY center, this can't be wrong. After marking where the ring would weld on, I cut out the larger hole where the shaft would go through. and welded the ring in the last pic to the plate and drilled the holes that were in the ring through the larger plate. Something else to consider before welding the plate is how you want the second case clocked. My second case was already used in the truck behind the 203 in the factory clocked position and worked fine there, so that is what I set it at. Here is what it looked like at this point. Something else I didn't mention earlier is the squared off section in the lower left hand corner of the adapter. Before I cut the adapter plate out I decided to leave that section so that it would hang down below the rear transfer case so that I could modify it later for a mount to support them with a cross member. At this point it was time to "build" the shaft that would go from the first case to the second. Before I start, it would probably be better in every way to have a custom shaft built and sumner machine works sells them for around $225, but I'm to cheap and prefer to figure out my own method. To do this, I re-installed the planetary and everything related to it and the range selector lever so that it wouldn't have to come back apart and bolted the adapter plate to the rear of the first case and measured the depth from the planetary to the back of the adapter, then I measured how far the input shaft goes into the second case. That determined how long the shaft needed to be. Then I took the original output shaft from the front case and cut it off just behind where it exits the platery. It is hollow and has about a 1/2" hole through it. Then I went to a local transmission shop and bought an old output shaft from a 4l60 since the front 241 had a 32 spline output shaft and the rear 241 had a 27 spline (4L60) input. Then I cut it off 1" longer than it needed to be measuring from the rear of it and placed it in the lathe and turned that extra inch that I left on it down to where it would fit very snug into the 1/2" hole in the first shaft. Then I "pressed" the second section where it was turned down into the hole in the original shaft and chucked it up in the lathe and turned it to verify that it was straight and welded the two together with my mig. I know that isn't the best method, but it has held up to over 400lb/ft of torque and 38" tires pulling combined truck & trailer weights reaching over 18,000 lbs, so I doubt anyone with an S10 will cause a shaft built this way to fail. At this point it was time to unbolt the adapter from the first case and bolt it to the second case since those bolts come from the front side of it and will be located inside the rear of the first case, then I slide the shaft in and bolted it back to the first case. For gaskets I just cleaned the sufaces and applied RTV. To fill the front case I just removed the VSS in the top of the front case and added fluid until it was over the planetary. The "proper" way to do it would be to add a fill plug to the adapter plate at the proper fill level and also to drill and tap the adapter plate near the top and bottom and add 90* pipe fitting with a section of clear tubing clamped between them so that you could monitor the fluid level. I will do that at a later date. Here are some pics of all of it assembled. Anyway, that's my story, hope it will help someone and if I wasn't clear on anything or if anyone has any questions or anything to had just feel free.
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-02-2009, 02:14 AM	#2
chevyrules05 it happens Age: 20 Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,115 Location: Disney World FL User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler very educational
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02-02-2009, 09:44 AM	#3
Baggey22 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,086 Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler So what exactly does a doubler DO for you?
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-02-2009, 10:15 AM	#4
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22 So what exactly does a doubler DO for you? It adds another 2.72:1 gear reduction into the mix which allows me to VERY slowly crawl the truck through difficult sections with almost no throttle required. Without the doubler locked into low range my crawl ratio (without factoring in torque converter slippage) is 27.72:1, with the doubler locked into low range my crawl ratio is 75.41:1 and this is with a street driven setup that happily runs 65 mph at 1750 rpm. You get the best of both worlds. Adding the doubler into the drivetrain also requires a longer front driveshaft which helps with the angle of it.
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-02-2009, 11:44 AM	#5
Speedy2222 Have you seen my glovebox Age: 20 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 7,669 Location: Vincennes, IN User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!!
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-26-2009, 07:28 PM	#6
black_blazer Minnesota Man Age: 28 Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 438 Location: land of ice and snow User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Thanks Diesel great write up !
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-27-2009, 12:50 AM	#7
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by black_blazer Thanks Diesel great write up ! No problem, I just hope people who are considering such an upgrade can benefit from it and see that with a little creativity and research can save themselves some cash.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-19-2009, 04:55 PM	#9
timmy_noma -->Insert Joke Here Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 176 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Very cool How-To. Quote: Originally Posted by Speedy2222 there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!! LOL. Trucks was awesome when Stacy was on it. It's still a good show but he had the best projects.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-19-2009, 09:33 PM	#10
Grohe Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 201 Location: Manteno, Ill User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler I never even heard of a doubler before, very educational.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-26-2009, 11:40 PM	#11
*Donahue* 3 Leaf Fab Age: 25 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 3,880 Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler this is very similar to my D&D 231 doubler.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-27-2009, 01:24 AM	#12
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue this is very similar to my D&D 231 doubler.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-27-2009, 01:40 AM	#13
Tim99Zr2 Fvck New Jersey Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 7,535 Location: Reynoldsville, PA User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Speedy2222 there is an episode of trucks (when stacey was still on it) where he put the truck in 1st(manuall) and let it crawl up a steep hill at idle on its own.. hell he even got out and was like.. look at what a doubler can do for you!!! hell my truck did that with 33s, 4.88s, 5spd, and a 231
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-27-2009, 12:28 PM	#14
*Donahue* 3 Leaf Fab Age: 25 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 3,880 Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Tim99Zr2 hell my truck did that with 33s, 4.88s, 5spd, and a 231 no, its not the same. with a doubler, you can get out and let it idle over rocks the size of the truck. mine will almost idle up a verticle ledge, and i am sure if i had more than a 2.8, it would. with a doubler, you can pretty much steer, and not have to ever touch the gas or the brakes.
	[Reply w/Quote]

03-27-2009, 09:25 PM	#15
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue no, its not the same. with a doubler, you can get out and let it idle over rocks the size of the truck. mine will almost idle up a verticle ledge, and i am sure if i had more than a 2.8, it would. with a doubler, you can pretty much steer, and not have to ever touch the gas or the brakes. Exactly. Something else to consider is that the crawl ratio with an automatic isn't nearly as numerically accurate as they are with a standard because of torque converter slippage. Even with an automatic I don't have to touch the gas pedal when it's in double low. I have to hold the brake to keep it still and if it's in 2wd double low I can't keep the rear tires from spinning unless I try to push the brake pedal through the floor, other wise the rear tires just set and spin slowly. To put it into perspective it will run a hair over 15 mph floor boarded in over-drive when both transfer cases are locked in low. I'll film it sometime, it's kinda funny.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-07-2009, 04:31 PM	#16
blazetake2 Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 34 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler so diesel is there ne way i can send you my two 241's and have you turn them into a single unit? Doubler!?
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-07-2009, 07:43 PM	#17
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler hey, this was really cool! i dont know if i should build a doubler for my 4x4 rig, but im thinking about it... now, i dont have a lathe or anything, so it might be a little bit harder for me to do this stuff... but i would be interested in trying if its worth the time. "I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall." so this part you are talking about is just the piece that is on the back of the transmission after you take the transfer case off? ive got a NP203 transfer case, do you have any pics of how you built that one? Thanks Bro!
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-07-2009, 11:21 PM	#18
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by blazetake2 so diesel is there ne way i can send you my two 241's and have you turn them into a single unit? Doubler!? I'll PM you.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-07-2009, 11:28 PM	#19
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by Golana hey, this was really cool! i dont know if i should build a doubler for my 4x4 rig, but im thinking about it... now, i dont have a lathe or anything, so it might be a little bit harder for me to do this stuff... but i would be interested in trying if its worth the time. "I took a factory adapter that was located between the 4L60e transmission and the second transfer case that I used and cut it off, just in front of the flange where it bolted to the transfer case, with a sawzall." so this part you are talking about is just the piece that is on the back of the transmission after you take the transfer case off? ive got a NP203 transfer case, do you have any pics of how you built that one? Thanks Bro! Yes on the part that is on the back of the tranny, but it has to be a steel one and not aluminum, unless your using aluminum for the adapter plate also. They could be welded together as well. I didn't build the 203 adapter that I had. I am good friends with the guy that originated the 203 doubler and he built it for me. It requires far more machine work than the 231/241 doublers. I want to add that if your not planning to do any rock crawling or terribly difficult technical wheeling then your probably not going to ever benefit from a doubler.
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-08-2009, 12:54 AM	#20
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: How I Built My Doubler Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10 Yes on the part that is on the back of the tranny, but it has to be a steel one and not aluminum, unless your using aluminum for the adapter plate also. They could be welded together as well. I didn't build the 203 adapter that I had. I am good friends with the guy that originated the 203 doubler and he built it for me. It requires far more machine work than the 231/241 doublers. I want to add that if your not planning to do any rock crawling or terribly difficult technical wheeling then your probably not going to ever benefit from a doubler. ok, thats cool. i sent you a PM because i didnt get the email that anyone had replied to this thread yet hahaa! so ive asked you a question about another purpose for the doubler in the PM... Thanks again Bro
	[Reply w/Quote]