Project Whiplash

Golana · 07-24-2009, 06:24 PM

haha!

so i just phoned my uncle.

its a F250. its got a closed D44 front with drum brakes

but a D60 rear.

so, i have these chevy axles sittin in my shed... would i be able to take the disc brake knuckles off the 10bolt and put them on the D44 front? uhg, you know what... they arent flat tops either... damnit... gotta hit up pick n pull i guess...

96superflow · 07-24-2009, 06:36 PM

damn sorry it didn't work out for ya.

Golana · 07-24-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

damn sorry it didn't work out for ya.

meh, its still good. i get 80% of the stuff to do the conversion, plus a running engine and working transmission

the only thing im gunna have to do is swap out the knuckles on the axle. unless i can find a whole HP kingpin D60... what could i do for gearing though? i guess it wont matter at first... i could run the truck w/o a front driveshaft until i get the right gear set in there...

96superflow · 07-24-2009, 06:52 PM

what gearing is in the truck now?

Golana · 07-24-2009, 06:55 PM

i think he said 4.11 or 4.56

96superflow · 07-24-2009, 07:02 PM

what tire size you planning on running? 4.11s or 4.56s would do the trick for a while i would think.

Golana · 07-24-2009, 07:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

what tire size you planning on running? 4.11s or 4.56s would do the trick for a while i would think.

im planning to be up around 38's. i dont see a need to go much bigger than that. ill be able to drive over cars and go mudding and everything

Golana · 07-25-2009, 12:34 PM

well, last night i started to install the rear sway bar, then a friend called and we went and got shit faced haha!

so today, i have to weld the swaybar tabs to the frame. that shouldnt take long. then ill see if i can get my uncle to go to the shop so i can have a look at the F250 chassis.

Golana · 07-27-2009, 12:52 AM

spent the first part of the morning completely taking my computer apart and cleaning it. the PSU fan stopped working, and the damn thing nearly caught fire...

anyways, got some plate steel and made those swaybar tabs. also made an exhaust dump so i dont blow exhaust at the axle anymore...

kinda a crappy pic, but my camera batteries are dead, and i couldnt use flash. i also took this pic before the exhaust dump was installed.

BillaksBlazer · 07-27-2009, 07:29 AM

uhh why are you putting swaybars on a 4x4, esp the rear?

Golana · 07-27-2009, 10:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by BillaksBlazer

uhh why are you putting swaybars on a 4x4, esp the rear?

cause i drive it like i stole it, and i hate feeling body roll when i corner hard.

when i SAS it, im going to be building quick-connect links or SOMETHING so that i can run swaybars when im DD'ing and disconnect them when i go offroading. this rig is going to be my daily driver/rock crawler/mudder.

Golana · 07-27-2009, 05:44 PM

here's the donor truck. i get everything except the body.

DieselS10 · 07-27-2009, 11:32 PM

That's a pre '73, I love those trucks! The axles will work, but they are not very desirable. The good thing about it is that you can use the divorced T-case and mount it back far enough that the driveshaft going to your LP front axle won't bind.

Golana · 07-27-2009, 11:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10

That's a pre '73, I love those trucks! The axles will work, but they are not very desirable. The good thing about it is that you can use the divorced T-case and mount it back far enough that the driveshaft going to your LP front axle won't bind.

its a 72

haha

the rear wouldnt be a very good axle either? im thinkin ill use these axles until they break. ill have my uncle find me a set of axles like the ones in his F350. he's got the D60 front and D80 rear!

DieselS10 · 07-27-2009, 11:59 PM

There are better 60's but free is good and like you said, it will be easy to swap them out later. I believe it is a 19 spline.

You don't need an 80 in it, they are overkill in every way for what your building.

Golana · 07-28-2009, 12:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10

There are better 60's but free is good and like you said, it will be easy to swap them out later. I believe it is a 19 spline.

You don't need an 80 in it, they are overkill in every way for what your building.

what would be the ideal D60 rear axle? and for the front, i would want the HP D60 from a late 70's ford F350?

DieselS10 · 07-28-2009, 12:33 AM

I would use a 14 bolt over a 60 personally. They are easy to find, fairly cheap, considerably stonger, and even a Detriot Locker doesn't require a case swap like they do in every other axle.

If you really want a 60 rear then just look for something newer, like in the 80's or up, better brakes, axles, and parts availability.

Ideally you would want a '77 1/2 to '79 Ford 60, they are the only front 60's that have the slightly longer drivers side axle tube which moves that huge diff inside the frame rail on little trucks like ours and the diff is far less likely to contact the frame during extreme articulation. These axles are also king-pin style which makes it very easy to add high-steer, and they have 35 spline inner axle shafts.

You could also get a 60 from any later model F350 up until they switched to that retarded metric bolt pattern and '94 & up Dodges will work, but they are 30 spline, ball-joint style, and have and axle dis-connect that is more prone to fail. They can be converted to 35 spline with lock-out hubs, but it costs way more than you can buy the 77 1/2 to 79 F350 D60's for.

Golana · 07-29-2009, 02:45 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10

I would use a 14 bolt over a 60 personally. They are easy to find, fairly cheap, considerably stonger, and even a Detriot Locker doesn't require a case swap like they do in every other axle.

If you really want a 60 rear then just look for something newer, like in the 80's or up, better brakes, axles, and parts availability.

Ideally you would want a '77 1/2 to '79 Ford 60, they are the only front 60's that have the slightly longer drivers side axle tube which moves that huge diff inside the frame rail on little trucks like ours and the diff is far less likely to contact the frame during extreme articulation. These axles are also king-pin style which makes it very easy to add high-steer, and they have 35 spline inner axle shafts.

You could also get a 60 from any later model F350 up until they switched to that retarded metric bolt pattern and '94 & up Dodges will work, but they are 30 spline, ball-joint style, and have and axle dis-connect that is more prone to fail. They can be converted to 35 spline with lock-out hubs, but it costs way more than you can buy the 77 1/2 to 79 F350 D60's for.

thanks for all that info bro! i really appreciate all the help you've given me!

so im probably going to want a 60 front and 14b rear?

im totally open to suggestions as far as axles go... but for that 77-79 ford axle, would the leaf perch position stay the same as my 72 F250, or would i have to relocate the leaf springs to match up with it? cause if it is different, then i will hold off until i get that axle, just so i dont have to do things twice...

DieselS10 · 07-29-2009, 10:11 AM

I really don't know about that one.......mine obviously doesn't still have the spring perches to measure, but if you measure from your driverside perch to the WMS I can do the same on mine and that should tell us if its's close.

Someone who knows might chime in also.

Golana · 07-29-2009, 10:14 AM

thats a good idea. next time im up by my uncle's shop, ill swing by and take some measurements.

DieselS10 · 07-29-2009, 10:43 AM

My brain must have stopped earlier, lol. I put a 3/4 Dana 44 back in the truck that I got my front axle from and it was a direct bolt in.

87chevyblazer · 07-29-2009, 07:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Golana

i bought the front and rear axles, plus a NP203 transfer case from a dude who upgraded to 1ton stuff in his 79 K5 blazer. picked it all up for 100 bucks haha

i wanna get my 350 +.030 block here so bad so i can start building it for this truck. i DEFINITELY want to do a TBI 350. it is alot easier that i thought to (at least i think its easier than i thought) haha! when i was tearing down my 4.3L, i was thinking that all this stuff will just plug right into the 350... right?

i "think" the 4.3 stuff will swap over (TB wise need diff intake obvoiusly, and maybe diff injectors) my 350 is an unbored block, 2bbl carb HEI dizzy out of (i think) a 72 impala. i bought it off a dirt track guy tht flipped his car and had the wife tell him he couldn't race any more. it wasn't in it's original vehicle. i can't wait to hear it run again...i'm debating making her run out of the vehicle, just sitting on the ground!

Golana · 07-30-2009, 03:15 PM

damnit! nothing but problems with this blazer...
i blew an axle seal again when my ebrake cable didnt release and almost lit my brakes on fire... the metal on the shoe got so hot it turned blue...
now my electronic spark control unit is dead or dying...

on the plus side, i got 4 brand new brake shoes off a truck at pick n pull for .99 each! haha! they are like... brand new!

i removed my ebrake cables up till the single one that connects to the floor pedal...

i killed a lug stud trying to put the lug nut back on... damn heat from the brakes ****ed them all up!

another plus side, my brother is giving me a set of tires for the blazer. LT235 75 15's. they will do for now... my rear tires are like... km's away from wearing through haha!

so where do i find this electronic spark control module? its not the coil pack is it?

96superflow · 07-30-2009, 11:23 PM

I think in my dads 93 tbi 4.3, its under the distributor cap....

DieselS10 · 07-30-2009, 11:57 PM

I changed one on an '89 fullsize with a tbi 350 that was located between the tbi and the passenger side valve cover on a metal bracket.

Golana · 07-31-2009, 12:37 AM

thanks guys

mine was located there on my 92 pickup, but on the blazer, it was between the #4 and #6 cylinders on the head.

i now know that the guy swapped the engine, instead of rebuilding the original. HOW i know this is simple! when the guy swapped the engines, he was DAMN lazy and didnt bother to extend the knock sensor wire from the original engine's location, so he just left it unplugged... what a lazy ass huh?!

so i took off the plug, soldered a wire to it, and soldered that to the knock sensor wire. now, she runs ALOT better! lots of horsepower, she fires up easy again! remember in the beginning of this thread, i mentioned that she was getting SES lights when i would throttle it weird, well, it doesnt do that anymore. also, she doesnt hesitate and sputter and overfuel when im trying to start her after letting her sit for 5-10 minutes (like when fueling up, or getting groceries)

YEAH!!!! IM EXCITED! haha!

now, i am getting the tires on it tomorrow; have to beat them off the rims by hand, and install them on my rims by hand. it was raining, so we put it off till tomorrow.

NOW, im thinking... can i swap my torsion bars left and right and get my lift back? my reasoning behind this is that the torsion bars are saggy, and stressed one way, so they are probably twisted right? if i swap them left and right, they will be twisted for lift then, right? or am i totally out to lunch on this? i just want to avoid wasting excess money on IFS crap for this truck...

Golana · 08-01-2009, 01:48 AM

so i beat down 2 complete sets of tires today by hand, and i have mondo blisters hahaa!

but she handles ALOT better now, the sidewalls on the new tires are super thick, so it doesnt roll and handle funny when i have a load in the back!

ill go and take some pics tomorrow when its light out. im super stoked to see how she does climbing stuff now that i dont have drag slicks on the back haha!

still wondering about the torsion bars... the stealership wants 60 bucks a piece for aftermarket t-bars, which isnt too bad, but im just worried i might not be able to get the old ones out... they have 334xxx km's on em hahaa!

~~Gibson~~ · 08-03-2009, 02:51 AM

try th t-bar thing, sounds like it might work pretty well

Golana · 08-03-2009, 04:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Gibson

try th t-bar thing, sounds like it might work pretty well

yea, i would just hate to swap em and then snap one haha! because its got stress in one direction... could be substantially weaker twisting the opposite direction... i dont know... i might try it... if i can even get the damn things out hahaa!

i tried beating on them with a mini sledge hammer and a brass punch... they didnt even budge! the front end was jacked up too, and the key was unbolted; i tried to take all the tension off the bar before i started hammering on it... its REALLY in there haha!

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 09:12 AM

did you take the key out??? if not, there is still some stress on the t-bar itself. If you do snap one, ill sent you the ones i pulled out of my blazer you just pay to ship them and i would be glad to help ya out. although i would be loosing two awesome pry bars!!!

Golana · 08-03-2009, 03:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

did you take the key out??? if not, there is still some stress on the t-bar itself. If you do snap one, ill sent you the ones i pulled out of my blazer you just pay to ship them and i would be glad to help ya out. although i would be loosing two awesome pry bars!!!

my keys wont budge at all. i have to slide the t bar forward to get the key out anyways... its really tough hahaa

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 07:50 PM

did you get get the flat piece out that the torsion bar bolt goes? if not i doubt you will be able to get it out. PB blast the shit out of it and let it soke for a good while in it!

Golana · 08-03-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

did you get get the flat piece out that the torsion bar bolt goes? if not i doubt you will be able to get it out. PB blast the shit out of it and let it soke for a good while in it!

are you talking about that half moon piece that holds the bolt for the key?

Blazin_Jason · 08-03-2009, 08:15 PM

My TB's were stuck like no other. I ended up taking the bars, xmember mount, and lower arms out as one. I soaked them in lube, smashed them with a sledge, used an air hammer, spent many hours trying to get them out. I ended up getting 3 out eventually. Hot wrench got the last one out. There was no other way to do it.

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 08:50 PM

Yeah. Have you pulled that out?

Golana · 08-03-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

Yeah. Have you pulled that out?

nope. i dont know how to get it out... i'd probably have to try to twist the lower control arm down to take the pressure off that half moon thing... then the key will be loose?

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 08:59 PM

get a really big C clamp, and if you look closely at your key, theres an indention for a tool called a torsion bar puller, but a large c-clamp suffices. If you have to cut the pivot end off of the clamp, and you will be able to load the torsion bar, enough to get the half moon thingly out. Then it will come out, probably alot easier. Just BE CAREFUL! if that thing pops off after you get that half moon out, it can be very dangerous.

Golana · 08-03-2009, 09:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

get a really big C clamp, and if you look closely at your key, theres an indention for a tool called a torsion bar puller, but a large c-clamp suffices. If you have to cut the pivot end off of the clamp, and you will be able to load the torsion bar, enough to get the half moon thingly out. Then it will come out, probably alot easier. Just BE CAREFUL! if that thing pops off after you get that half moon out, it can be very dangerous.

ive seen that! i should do that. seems like a good plan.

i hope this doesnt take too long to do ahhaha! i cant afford to have my truck non driveable for too long.

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 09:24 PM

it really doesn't. I took mine off in a jiffy. Even has me considering a key lift for my tahoe. It doesn't ride stiff enough up front anyways.....

Golana · 08-03-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

it really doesn't. I took mine off in a jiffy. Even has me considering a key lift for my tahoe. It doesn't ride stiff enough up front anyways.....

how many km's does yours have? mines got like 334xxxkm... should come out fairly easy, right? i might have a go at it tomorrow then... see if i can get the torsion bars out.

and i know what you mean about not being stiff enough up front haha! my 31's rub when i turn and brake... mind you, im on 2wd rims and everything.. but still... i KNOW i can get more lift out of my front end with non saggy parts

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 09:43 PM

oh heck yeah you can. Whe my blazer was ifs, i had 2" body, 3" lift shackles, and cranked t-bars and on the stock wheels, they rubbed at lock. thats the only time. when i pulled out everything, i think i have 157000 miles or so- converts to about 253xxx kms. But after i got that half moon thingy out, the keys were the easy part, had to wiggle the bars a bit to get all the mud out of um at the lower control arm.

Golana · 08-03-2009, 10:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

oh heck yeah you can. Whe my blazer was ifs, i had 2" body, 3" lift shackles, and cranked t-bars and on the stock wheels, they rubbed at lock. thats the only time. when i pulled out everything, i think i have 157000 miles or so- converts to about 253xxx kms. But after i got that half moon thingy out, the keys were the easy part, had to wiggle the bars a bit to get all the mud out of um at the lower control arm.

i dont have any body lift. my wheels dont rub at all on full lock, just about half turned with the brakes on, or going over a bump or something... the front end is too spongy...

im thinkin about doing a slight body lift, but i dont really want to spend too much money on the BL cause im going to be removing it when i SAS. i just wanna stop the rubbing haha!

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 10:34 PM

i can understand that. Why dont ya just start cutting ifs shit out and weld that axle underneath!!!

DieselS10 · 08-03-2009, 10:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

Why dont ya just start cutting ifs shit out and weld that axle underneath!!!

Now that sounds like a plan!

Golana · 08-03-2009, 10:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

i can understand that. Why dont ya just start cutting ifs shit out and weld that axle underneath!!!

not quite ready yet. i want to have like... all the pieces before i start. or at least the majority.

i need a pass side flattop knuckle, steel tubing for the x members, astrovan box, and a couple other things before im ready to start.

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 10:54 PM

well heck, you have a DD! haha

Golana · 08-03-2009, 10:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

well heck, you have a DD! haha

this is my dd...?

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 10:56 PM

whats with the bagged truck? use that as your dd

Golana · 08-03-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

whats with the bagged truck? use that as your dd

i wish i could drive it... i need to do floor pans, rocker panels and finish the dash wiring and everything. she needs a fair bit of work... uhg

96superflow · 08-03-2009, 11:10 PM

haha. You can use my 86 waggy for a few weeks, feel like driving down to NC? haha

07-24-2009, 06:24 PM	#51
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash haha! so i just phoned my uncle. its a F250. its got a closed D44 front with drum brakes but a D60 rear. so, i have these chevy axles sittin in my shed... would i be able to take the disc brake knuckles off the 10bolt and put them on the D44 front? uhg, you know what... they arent flat tops either... damnit... gotta hit up pick n pull i guess...
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-24-2009, 06:36 PM	#52
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash damn sorry it didn't work out for ya.
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07-24-2009, 06:40 PM	#53
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow damn sorry it didn't work out for ya. meh, its still good. i get 80% of the stuff to do the conversion, plus a running engine and working transmission the only thing im gunna have to do is swap out the knuckles on the axle. unless i can find a whole HP kingpin D60... what could i do for gearing though? i guess it wont matter at first... i could run the truck w/o a front driveshaft until i get the right gear set in there...
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07-24-2009, 06:52 PM	#54
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash what gearing is in the truck now?
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07-24-2009, 06:55 PM	#55
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash i think he said 4.11 or 4.56
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07-24-2009, 07:02 PM	#56
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash what tire size you planning on running? 4.11s or 4.56s would do the trick for a while i would think.
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07-24-2009, 07:07 PM	#57
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow what tire size you planning on running? 4.11s or 4.56s would do the trick for a while i would think. im planning to be up around 38's. i dont see a need to go much bigger than that. ill be able to drive over cars and go mudding and everything
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-25-2009, 12:34 PM	#58
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash well, last night i started to install the rear sway bar, then a friend called and we went and got shit faced haha! so today, i have to weld the swaybar tabs to the frame. that shouldnt take long. then ill see if i can get my uncle to go to the shop so i can have a look at the F250 chassis.
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-27-2009, 12:52 AM	#59
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash spent the first part of the morning completely taking my computer apart and cleaning it. the PSU fan stopped working, and the damn thing nearly caught fire... anyways, got some plate steel and made those swaybar tabs. also made an exhaust dump so i dont blow exhaust at the axle anymore... kinda a crappy pic, but my camera batteries are dead, and i couldnt use flash. i also took this pic before the exhaust dump was installed.
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-27-2009, 07:29 AM	#60
BillaksBlazer Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 572 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash uhh why are you putting swaybars on a 4x4, esp the rear?
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07-27-2009, 10:31 AM	#61
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by BillaksBlazer uhh why are you putting swaybars on a 4x4, esp the rear? cause i drive it like i stole it, and i hate feeling body roll when i corner hard. when i SAS it, im going to be building quick-connect links or SOMETHING so that i can run swaybars when im DD'ing and disconnect them when i go offroading. this rig is going to be my daily driver/rock crawler/mudder.
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-27-2009, 05:44 PM	#62
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash here's the donor truck. i get everything except the body.
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07-27-2009, 11:32 PM	#63
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash That's a pre '73, I love those trucks! The axles will work, but they are not very desirable. The good thing about it is that you can use the divorced T-case and mount it back far enough that the driveshaft going to your LP front axle won't bind.
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-27-2009, 11:48 PM	#64
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10 That's a pre '73, I love those trucks! The axles will work, but they are not very desirable. The good thing about it is that you can use the divorced T-case and mount it back far enough that the driveshaft going to your LP front axle won't bind. its a 72 haha the rear wouldnt be a very good axle either? im thinkin ill use these axles until they break. ill have my uncle find me a set of axles like the ones in his F350. he's got the D60 front and D80 rear!
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-27-2009, 11:59 PM	#65
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash There are better 60's but free is good and like you said, it will be easy to swap them out later. I believe it is a 19 spline. You don't need an 80 in it, they are overkill in every way for what your building.
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-28-2009, 12:01 AM	#66
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10 There are better 60's but free is good and like you said, it will be easy to swap them out later. I believe it is a 19 spline. You don't need an 80 in it, they are overkill in every way for what your building. what would be the ideal D60 rear axle? and for the front, i would want the HP D60 from a late 70's ford F350?
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-28-2009, 12:33 AM	#67
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash I would use a 14 bolt over a 60 personally. They are easy to find, fairly cheap, considerably stonger, and even a Detriot Locker doesn't require a case swap like they do in every other axle. If you really want a 60 rear then just look for something newer, like in the 80's or up, better brakes, axles, and parts availability. Ideally you would want a '77 1/2 to '79 Ford 60, they are the only front 60's that have the slightly longer drivers side axle tube which moves that huge diff inside the frame rail on little trucks like ours and the diff is far less likely to contact the frame during extreme articulation. These axles are also king-pin style which makes it very easy to add high-steer, and they have 35 spline inner axle shafts. You could also get a 60 from any later model F350 up until they switched to that retarded metric bolt pattern and '94 & up Dodges will work, but they are 30 spline, ball-joint style, and have and axle dis-connect that is more prone to fail. They can be converted to 35 spline with lock-out hubs, but it costs way more than you can buy the 77 1/2 to 79 F350 D60's for. Last edited by DieselS10 : 07-28-2009 at 12:34 AM.
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07-29-2009, 02:45 AM	#68
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10 I would use a 14 bolt over a 60 personally. They are easy to find, fairly cheap, considerably stonger, and even a Detriot Locker doesn't require a case swap like they do in every other axle. If you really want a 60 rear then just look for something newer, like in the 80's or up, better brakes, axles, and parts availability. Ideally you would want a '77 1/2 to '79 Ford 60, they are the only front 60's that have the slightly longer drivers side axle tube which moves that huge diff inside the frame rail on little trucks like ours and the diff is far less likely to contact the frame during extreme articulation. These axles are also king-pin style which makes it very easy to add high-steer, and they have 35 spline inner axle shafts. You could also get a 60 from any later model F350 up until they switched to that retarded metric bolt pattern and '94 & up Dodges will work, but they are 30 spline, ball-joint style, and have and axle dis-connect that is more prone to fail. They can be converted to 35 spline with lock-out hubs, but it costs way more than you can buy the 77 1/2 to 79 F350 D60's for. thanks for all that info bro! i really appreciate all the help you've given me! so im probably going to want a 60 front and 14b rear? im totally open to suggestions as far as axles go... but for that 77-79 ford axle, would the leaf perch position stay the same as my 72 F250, or would i have to relocate the leaf springs to match up with it? cause if it is different, then i will hold off until i get that axle, just so i dont have to do things twice...
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07-29-2009, 10:11 AM	#69
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash I really don't know about that one.......mine obviously doesn't still have the spring perches to measure, but if you measure from your driverside perch to the WMS I can do the same on mine and that should tell us if its's close. Someone who knows might chime in also.
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07-29-2009, 10:14 AM	#70
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash thats a good idea. next time im up by my uncle's shop, ill swing by and take some measurements.
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07-29-2009, 10:43 AM	#71
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash My brain must have stopped earlier, lol. I put a 3/4 Dana 44 back in the truck that I got my front axle from and it was a direct bolt in.
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07-29-2009, 07:05 PM	#72
87chevyblazer Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 48 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by Golana i bought the front and rear axles, plus a NP203 transfer case from a dude who upgraded to 1ton stuff in his 79 K5 blazer. picked it all up for 100 bucks haha i wanna get my 350 +.030 block here so bad so i can start building it for this truck. i DEFINITELY want to do a TBI 350. it is alot easier that i thought to (at least i think its easier than i thought) haha! when i was tearing down my 4.3L, i was thinking that all this stuff will just plug right into the 350... right? i "think" the 4.3 stuff will swap over (TB wise need diff intake obvoiusly, and maybe diff injectors) my 350 is an unbored block, 2bbl carb HEI dizzy out of (i think) a 72 impala. i bought it off a dirt track guy tht flipped his car and had the wife tell him he couldn't race any more. it wasn't in it's original vehicle. i can't wait to hear it run again...i'm debating making her run out of the vehicle, just sitting on the ground!
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07-30-2009, 03:15 PM	#73
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash damnit! nothing but problems with this blazer... i blew an axle seal again when my ebrake cable didnt release and almost lit my brakes on fire... the metal on the shoe got so hot it turned blue... now my electronic spark control unit is dead or dying... on the plus side, i got 4 brand new brake shoes off a truck at pick n pull for .99 each! haha! they are like... brand new! i removed my ebrake cables up till the single one that connects to the floor pedal... i killed a lug stud trying to put the lug nut back on... damn heat from the brakes ****ed them all up! another plus side, my brother is giving me a set of tires for the blazer. LT235 75 15's. they will do for now... my rear tires are like... km's away from wearing through haha! so where do i find this electronic spark control module? its not the coil pack is it?
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07-30-2009, 11:23 PM	#74
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash I think in my dads 93 tbi 4.3, its under the distributor cap....
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07-30-2009, 11:57 PM	#75
DieselS10 Slightly Over Built Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,225 Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash I changed one on an '89 fullsize with a tbi 350 that was located between the tbi and the passenger side valve cover on a metal bracket.
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07-31-2009, 12:37 AM	#76
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash thanks guys mine was located there on my 92 pickup, but on the blazer, it was between the #4 and #6 cylinders on the head. i now know that the guy swapped the engine, instead of rebuilding the original. HOW i know this is simple! when the guy swapped the engines, he was DAMN lazy and didnt bother to extend the knock sensor wire from the original engine's location, so he just left it unplugged... what a lazy ass huh?! so i took off the plug, soldered a wire to it, and soldered that to the knock sensor wire. now, she runs ALOT better! lots of horsepower, she fires up easy again! remember in the beginning of this thread, i mentioned that she was getting SES lights when i would throttle it weird, well, it doesnt do that anymore. also, she doesnt hesitate and sputter and overfuel when im trying to start her after letting her sit for 5-10 minutes (like when fueling up, or getting groceries) YEAH!!!! IM EXCITED! haha! now, i am getting the tires on it tomorrow; have to beat them off the rims by hand, and install them on my rims by hand. it was raining, so we put it off till tomorrow. NOW, im thinking... can i swap my torsion bars left and right and get my lift back? my reasoning behind this is that the torsion bars are saggy, and stressed one way, so they are probably twisted right? if i swap them left and right, they will be twisted for lift then, right? or am i totally out to lunch on this? i just want to avoid wasting excess money on IFS crap for this truck... Last edited by Golana : 07-31-2009 at 12:41 AM.
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08-01-2009, 01:48 AM	#77
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash so i beat down 2 complete sets of tires today by hand, and i have mondo blisters hahaa! but she handles ALOT better now, the sidewalls on the new tires are super thick, so it doesnt roll and handle funny when i have a load in the back! ill go and take some pics tomorrow when its light out. im super stoked to see how she does climbing stuff now that i dont have drag slicks on the back haha! still wondering about the torsion bars... the stealership wants 60 bucks a piece for aftermarket t-bars, which isnt too bad, but im just worried i might not be able to get the old ones out... they have 334xxx km's on em hahaa!
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08-03-2009, 02:51 AM	#78
~~Gibson~~ Banned Age: 17 Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Pittsburgh pa User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash try th t-bar thing, sounds like it might work pretty well
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08-03-2009, 04:04 AM	#79
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by Gibson try th t-bar thing, sounds like it might work pretty well yea, i would just hate to swap em and then snap one haha! because its got stress in one direction... could be substantially weaker twisting the opposite direction... i dont know... i might try it... if i can even get the damn things out hahaa! i tried beating on them with a mini sledge hammer and a brass punch... they didnt even budge! the front end was jacked up too, and the key was unbolted; i tried to take all the tension off the bar before i started hammering on it... its REALLY in there haha!
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08-03-2009, 09:12 AM	#80
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash did you take the key out??? if not, there is still some stress on the t-bar itself. If you do snap one, ill sent you the ones i pulled out of my blazer you just pay to ship them and i would be glad to help ya out. although i would be loosing two awesome pry bars!!!
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08-03-2009, 03:19 PM	#81
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow did you take the key out??? if not, there is still some stress on the t-bar itself. If you do snap one, ill sent you the ones i pulled out of my blazer you just pay to ship them and i would be glad to help ya out. although i would be loosing two awesome pry bars!!! my keys wont budge at all. i have to slide the t bar forward to get the key out anyways... its really tough hahaa
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08-03-2009, 07:50 PM	#82
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash did you get get the flat piece out that the torsion bar bolt goes? if not i doubt you will be able to get it out. PB blast the shit out of it and let it soke for a good while in it!
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08-03-2009, 08:01 PM	#83
Golana Truck #121616 Age: 23 Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,800 Location: High River, Alberta User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow did you get get the flat piece out that the torsion bar bolt goes? if not i doubt you will be able to get it out. PB blast the shit out of it and let it soke for a good while in it! are you talking about that half moon piece that holds the bolt for the key?
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08-03-2009, 08:15 PM	#84
Blazin_Jason Registered User Age: 26 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 495 Location: BC, Canada User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash My TB's were stuck like no other. I ended up taking the bars, xmember mount, and lower arms out as one. I soaked them in lube, smashed them with a sledge, used an air hammer, spent many hours trying to get them out. I ended up getting 3 out eventually. Hot wrench got the last one out. There was no other way to do it.
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08-03-2009, 08:50 PM	#85
96superflow Registered User Age: 21 Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 722 Location: Moyock/Greenville, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Project Whiplash Yeah. Have you pulled that out?
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