Project: 1995 s10 SAS

[ChrisInVT]

Quote: Originally Posted by wrekd

I would just do it on level ground.

+1

[Baggey22]

Update: I just got inside from "bleeding my system" I let the truck run for 30 minutes and it got REALLY hot, but the temperature never went down. I had the cap off as long as I could before it started spitting coolant out ALL over the battery and ground. The only time I could get the temperature to drop was when I would get into the cab and rev the engine. Revving it like three to four times up to around 3000RPMs got it to drop to like 230* instead of the 260 it was running at.
So water pump?
Another new thermostat?
I'm stumped

[wrekd]

Did you try putting the back end up in the air???

[Baggey22]

No I left it on level ground.
When I first started it I took the cap off and topped off the radiator. Then let it idle for 30 minutes. At like 20 minutes I had to put the cap back on cause it was spitting out the radiator cap. It never went into the red (260*) but it got close, and it would go down when I revved the engine.
Should I try it with the rear end in the air?

[wrekd]

Yep.

[DieselS10]

Have you checked the clutch on the fan?

Typically air in the system will cause it to go up to near red-line right up until the T-stat opens, then it will suddenly drop back to normal.

[Baggey22]

I took the fan off a WHILE ago. I replaced it with an electric one from a Honda.
This isn't like that. It gets REALLY high, like the "check guages" light comes on. Then it'll go down (while I'm driving) to like 230 and stay AROUND there.

[wrekd]

Did the thermostat open when you were trying to bleed it???

[DieselS10]

So, when your moving it goes down, but when it's sitting still it heats up? If you just start it up and go without letting it get warm does it still over heat while moving?

[wrekd]

Partially clogged radiator maybe???

[Baggey22]

Here's how it goes
When I drive around it'll go WAY up (check gauges high) then will come back down to around 230* and stay near there (plus or minus 10 degrees). It'll do this no matter what I do, if I let it warm up first OR just start and drive.
Today when I just let it sit It got up to about 250* and stayed there UNTIL I revved the engine and it went down to about 230*

[DieselS10]

Is it boiling over?

[wrekd]

And it was doing this same thing before the thermostat was changed???

[ChrisInVT]

If it makes you feel better, my red lumina has been doing the same exact thing for 4 years now. I even replaced the thermostat because it never opens, but just like yours it goes into the red on the temp gage and the overheat light comes on - then it'll go away.

I just gave up on it years ago. It never circulates the coolant through the radiator because the thermostat never opens.

[BillaksBlazer]

get a aftermarket gauge and check to see if your stock one is correct. i know it moves but it maybe reading the wrong temp.

[Baggey22]

Quote: Originally Posted by DieselS10

Is it boiling over?

Define boiling over. When I had it running yesterday with the cap off it was spitting fluid out after like 15 minutes.

Quote: Originally Posted by wrekd

And it was doing this same thing before the thermostat was changed???

Yes it was, this was why I changed the thermostat in the first place.

[DieselS10]

Does it spray anti-freeze with the cap on it when the gauge is showing that it is very hot? I'm wondering if your temperature sender is giving you a false reading and I don't think your E-fan is keeping up with demand either.

[Baggey22]

It doesn't spray anti-freeze when it says it's very hot. I've had that E-fan on there for a few years now and I've only had this cooling issue the past few months. I kept squeezing the hose that goes TO the thermostat FROM the radiator and it was nice and cold. So I know the coolant is cold.
Maybe I'll change the temperature sender. I can't remember if I had to change it a while ago or not. I do remember the plug that went INTO it was broken when I got the truck so I had to replace that.

[ChrisInVT]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I kept squeezing the hose that goes TO the thermostat FROM the radiator and it was nice and cold. So I know the coolant is cold.

Sounds like your thermostat may not be opening, that hose should be hot enough to where you can't grab it. Can you squeeze it and feel antifreeze going through?

[Donahue]

leave the t-stat out and see if that helps.

[Baggey22]

I think I'm gonna replace the temp sensor on the side of the block. Maybe it's gone bad.
If that doesn't help at all I'll put another thermostat into it and see what happens.

[wrekd]

I doubt its the temp sensor if its boiling over. Do what Donahue said first.

[Baggey22]

Run it without a thermostat at all? That doesn't seem really good for the motor/water pump

[ChrisInVT]

It won't hurt it at all, it'll keep your truck running MUCH cooler. Only problem is that it'll never get to operating temperature, so the computer will keep it in closed loop. It'll run richer and your torque converter won't lock up. Although I don't think you'll be doing any highway driving so you wouldn't really notice a difference.

[Baggey22]

my top speed has only ever gotten to 55mph and that's all I ever need to get up to.

[Donahue]

all the t-stat does is allow the engine to heat up faster. once its up to temp, it is supposed to open and act like it is not even in the loop. my 94 burb has a t-stat that is stuck open, and it never gets above 120 deg in a 30 min drive.

there is no harm in pulling it out. if it works, replace it. you can also test it (the old t-stat that is) in a pan on the stove. just put it in boiling water and watch it open.

[Baggey22]

Alright I guess I'll try driving it without a thermostat. Since I have my electric fan on a switch I'll just keep it off unless I need it.
Won't get a chance until Wednesday to try it though

[Baggey22]

Small Update: I just remounted my front bumper tonight. I took it off a few days ago to add shackle tabs. I realized I needed front recovery points after getting high centered on a sand pile a few weeks ago. We wrapped the tow strap around my front spring cross member and when the guy pulled on the strap it freaked me out so I winched myself out so I didn't screw anything up.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow after my classes and post them up for you guys, I have smaller shackles in the tabs but they'll do the trick.

[Baggey22]

PICTURES!!!!!
Let me know what you think!

[Donahue]

the welds in the shackle pic look like i could break them off with a hammer.

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

the welds in the shackle pic look like i could break them off with a hammer.

Yeah they look worse then mine....

I would definitely do something about them since thats a tow point. Theres gonna be a shitload of force put on them when your getting pulled out. Thats the last thing someone wants flyin at the back of their head.

[ChrisInVT]

The welds holding that winch on the bumper don't look much better.

You really need to beef up that bumper too, looks like something is just waiting to take out your oil filter, and everything behind it.

[Baggey22]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

the welds in the shackle pic look like i could break them off with a hammer.

Quote: Originally Posted by wrekd

Yeah they look worse then mine....

I would definitely do something about them since thats a tow point. Theres gonna be a shitload of force put on them when your getting pulled out. Thats the last thing someone wants flyin at the back of their head.

It looks weak without knowing HOW I designed the mount. It's not just welded to the front of the bumper. It's actually two pieces of 1/4" angle that were welded together to make a T. Then I cut two rectangular holes in the bumper and welded the T into place. The welds on the front are more to fill in the rectangle. So it's pulling THROUGH the back of the bumper.
Here's a picture from before the mounts went into the bumper after I had cleaned up all the welds.

Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisInVT

The welds holding that winch on the bumper don't look much better.

You really need to beef up that bumper too, looks like something is just waiting to take out your oil filter, and everything behind it.

I am new to welding and my welds aren't the prettiest thing in the world. I also didn't grind them down when I was finished making that part of the bumper since I was pressed for time to get out of my buddy's garage.
I've been trying to think of a way to cover the oil filter for safety reasons and cause it looks kinda stupid with that big space. I just haven't thought of a way to do it without making a WHOLE new bumper.

[Tim99Zr2]

is what i plan to do SOMEDAY is just take like a 1/8" piece of sheet metal bend top and bottom of it, and bolt it to the bottom of my bumper / spring cross memeber. it'll look clean, can be taken off, and act as a skid plate.

i wrote up a post on that, but it didnt post. i said the same about the welds, and actually asked if you put them through your bumper, and welded on both sides

and P.S. i like your purple diff cover! i thought you had gotten a after market one?

[Baggey22]

I think that's just what I'm gonna do. Just get a piece of plate to make it look clean.
These shackle mounts are the same way my rear one is done.
I do have a better one for the front. I'm just waiting to get into the garage so I can do the locker, axle shafts, AND cover all at the same time.
AND I just bought a steering stabilizer today that I need to put on.

[Chevtech]

Why don't you just pull the filter adapter and lines out and just run a 2wd filter adapter so you can screw the filter directly onto the engine block, now that the front ifs diff. isn't in the way it's the best way to get rid of the filter at the front of the truck. Plus I don't really see needing an oil cooler unless you are towing. Just my $.02 and that's what I'm doing with my v8 s10.

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Chevtech

Why don't you just pull the filter adapter and lines out and just run a 2wd filter adapter so you can screw the filter directly onto the engine block, now that the front ifs diff. isn't in the way it's the best way to get rid of the filter at the front of the truck. Plus I don't really see needing an oil cooler unless you are towing. Just my $.02 and that's what I'm doing with my v8 s10.

x2....I didn't notice any temp differences.

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

It looks weak without knowing HOW I designed the mount. It's not just welded to the front of the bumper. It's actually two pieces of 1/4" angle that were welded together to make a T. Then I cut two rectangular holes in the bumper and welded the T into place. The welds on the front are more to fill in the rectangle. So it's pulling THROUGH the back of the bumper.
Here's a picture from before the mounts went into the bumper after I had cleaned up all the welds.




I am new to welding and my welds aren't the prettiest thing in the world. I also didn't grind them down when I was finished making that part of the bumper since I was pressed for time to get out of my buddy's garage.
I've been trying to think of a way to cover the oil filter for safety reasons and cause it looks kinda stupid with that big space. I just haven't thought of a way to do it without making a WHOLE new bumper.

Good deal. I thought you just welded them to the front of the bumper without any reinforcement.

[Donahue]

i agree, that will hold.

[Baggey22]

I actually have the necessary part from the Chevy dealership to move the oil filter to the block. I just haven't done an oil change. I thought it was the same filter when you did this "modification"

[DieselS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by wrekd

x2....I didn't notice any temp differences.

X3, that's what I did when it had the 350 in it.

[Baggey22]

Awesome, now I just need to know what filter I need AND what size/thread/how many plugs I need for the oil cooler.
Also, does it change the amount of oil I put in?

[DieselS10]

Just get the engine oil filter adapter that a 2wd S10 uses. I just got one for a 2wd fullsize for my 350, but they are probably the same between a 350 & a 4.3 anyway. With it you just unbolt the adapter for the oil lines and replace it with the other, then you just get a filter for a 2wd.

[wrekd]

Print this out and take it to the dealer




You still use your stock filter. I still put in 5 quarts of oil and I have no problems. For the oil cooler, I just unhooked everything and left it at that.

[Baggey22]

Oh I know the part. It's actually sitting in the cup holder in the back seat of my Blazer. I just haven't done an oil change yet so I haven't had the chance to do this set up.

[ChrisInVT]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I am new to welding and my welds aren't the prettiest thing in the world. I also didn't grind them down when I was finished making that part of the bumper since I was pressed for time to get out of my buddy's garage.
I've been trying to think of a way to cover the oil filter for safety reasons and cause it looks kinda stupid with that big space. I just haven't thought of a way to do it without making a WHOLE new bumper.

Are you still using that damn stick welder?

Just get some sheet metal or something and make a skidplate from your bumper to your crossmember. Reinforce it a little bit and then call it a day.

[Baggey22]

I am still using that damn stick welder. It's all I have (especially cause I got it for FREE). I think I will just do a piece of 1/8" as a skid plate between the crossmember and bumper. I can always add ribs to it later if it's a little floppy.

[ChrisInVT]

A viable option for you might be some trailer mesh flooring as a skidplate




And my welder was free too. Free is awesome

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisInVT

A viable option for you might be some trailer mesh flooring as a skidplate




And my welder was free too. Free is awesome

its called expanded metal

[ChrisInVT]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

its called expanded metal

I knew there was a real name for that shit, just didn't know what it was