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#701 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I'm sure they make a gauge or angle finder for that situation but I don't know. I typically set them in the 5*-6* range with the upper ball joint being rearward that many degrees from the lower one. I have a method that works for me, but others may be able to tell you an easier way. I'll give them a little while and if someone doesn't chime in I'll try to explain how I do it (it may require some pics). You may also want to call an alignment shop and ask them what degrees the caster is supposed to be on the vehicle you took the front axle from.
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#702 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
You can get a angle finder guage thing at Home Depot for like 10-15 bucks. Then just set it on a flat part of the inner knuckle and tip the top part of the knuckle back between 4-6 degrees. You want at least 4 degrees positive caster so the steering wheel returns to center easily.
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#703 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Looks good, glad to see the axle under it!
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#704 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#705 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
so when looking at the truck from the side, is the top of the C supposed to be back or forward of the bottom of the C?
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#706 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
The top will lean back towards the rear of the truck.
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#707 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
so the top will be around 4-6* back. Got it
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#708 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
i went off the top of the inner C, there should be a flatish spot where the ball joint goes. use an angle finder, and shoot for about 6* or so.
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#709 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Random question: I have the opportunity to buy a used Lock-Right for my D30. The catch is that it comes in a carrier with 4.56 gears. My question is can I just swap carriers and while both carriers are out put my 4.10 ring gear on the locker carrier and not have gear alignment issues? Then I'll just keep the 4.56 gears and install them later once I get some funds to regear the 8.8 as well.
Also I still need input on if I should move the axle forward or keep it where it is. (see picture on previous page) |
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#710 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#711 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
EDIT: You did it again! Last edited by DieselS10 : 08-17-2008 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Donahue |
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#712 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#713 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#714 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#715 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I know that it just replaces the spider gears. I just didn't know what was easier. Doing the spider gears or the whole carrier.
And is anyone gonna give me input on moving my axle forward or not!? |
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#716 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#717 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Turn the wheel to full lock and flex it out. If it hits either cut your fenders or move it forward. If it doesnt, then leave it alone. Theres no way anyone here can tell if its gonna hit or not.
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#718 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I say keep it where it is.
Oh, and a cool/funny story. On my way home from your place there was this maniac in a Mustang II going through the s-curves on 14 towards me with their highbeams on at over 100mph, so I let them have MY high beams... Well about 10 minutes later, on the last sharp right corner on 14 before Gates, the car comes up behind me real fast again. I was going a bit too fast for the corner (60mph) because I was watching the idiot behind me so I took it a little wide and hit the brakes; at the same time the asshole in the mustang went to pass me and clipped my rear bumper. He passed me on the corner, grazed the guardrail (he was completely sideways) and nearly missed me t-boning him at 60MPH. The sound of his screeching tires woke Steph up, must have been one hell of a sight to wake up to a car completely sideways in front of my truck, smoke rolling off all his tires while he's trying not to wreck and I'm trying not to plow into him. I started to chase the ****er because I was going to beat his head in with my impact gun for nearly killing me and my girlfriend (even though it wouldn't have hurt us in the truck - it's the thought that counts) and he blew through the stop sign at the end of 14 and took off into Hardwick. I (for obvious reasons in my SUPER FAST truck) couldn't keep up with him (I actually STOPPED at the stop sign, what a thought!), and by that point in time the wife told me to just let it be. More excitement than I needed at 1:00 in the morning. Now I have to go and fix the paint on my bumper too ![]() |
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#719 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
That sucks. People like that ned to be harmed......badly.
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#720 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
If I weld on my perches tomorrow with the axle centered on the perches will my caster angle change dramatically if I flex out and decide to move the axle forward?
Also I read a few articles and people still had to take the carriers out of their D30s because the ring gear teeth got in the way of the cross pin when installing the Lock Right. So it almost sounds easier to swap carriers since I have to take it out anyways. So is it as easy as changing the ring gears and putting it back in? |
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#721 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Once the perches are welded on, the caster cant change unless you lengthen/shorten your rear shackle, or drop down or move up the front crossmember.
For the Lockrite, you shouldnt have to take the carrier out at all. Just pull your diff cover off, take out the c-clips, pull your axles out, pull spiders out, make sure you put the shims back in the same side, put the drivers in, put axles back in, install c-clips, and then assemble the rest of the locker and put the cross pin back in. I think thats how it goes.....lol You cant just change ring gears. You have to put the 4.56 pinion in to. And that requires a whole gear setup. |
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#722 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Shit if you and your girl were both wearing seatbelts, I wouldve plowed into that fvcker and pushed him through the guardrail. It probably wouldnt have hurt your truck one bit with that big ass bumper on there. But you wouldve totaled his POS mustang. Odds are it was probably some punk ass teenagers tryin to act tough cause you "Highbeamed" them.... ![]() |
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#723 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I didn't even feel them clip my bumper, I just thought they spun because they didn't know how to drive. But then I got home and noticed that I was missing a bunch of green paint, and the bumper had black friction paint marks on it. I was like "Oh, THAT'S why they spun past me - idiots." |
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#724 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I'LL SHOW YOU http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/lr00a/ Thats an article on how to put it into a YJ, which my axle is from. It shows WHY you have to take it out. It still doesn't make sense to me why I can't just swap ring gears. If I have to take it off anyways it shouldn't need to be realigned once the locker is installed. Maybe I just don't know how to set up gears (I don't btw) |
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#725 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Oh yeah, my bad. I was thinking for the rear end for some reason.
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#726 |
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Fvck New Jersey
Age: 21
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,535
Location: Reynoldsville, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
you cant swap carriers because ring gear thicknesses vary, 3.55s and up have thinner ring gears (i think) and when you put a 4.88 on a carrier that had a 3.07 origonally, the gears have about 1/4" gap inbetween them.
i had to buy a new carrier when i bought gears (this is why i know this) also, if you just put your ring gear on a different carrier, you'll prob have to reshim it. just pull your ring gear and swap the spiders or w/e you wanna do. and there are washers between the spiders and carrier, i almost didnt see them and almost left them out! EDIT: i can also vouch for needing to take the ring gear off to get that center pin out. i had to do it. if you use the origional carrier, you wont need to reshim it or anything. Last edited by Tim99Zr2 : 08-18-2008 at 03:21 PM. |
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#727 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Before I do anything I need to get the perches on my D30 welded on. I don't think my little 110 can do it though. I'm pretty sure the D30 housing is cast. So now I have to figure out a way to get it done.
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#728 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Can't you move the perch over like 1/4" and weld it to the tube?
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#729 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
They're both on the tube. I just don't know if my 110 can get good welds on it because of the thickness of teh steel on the perch/tube.
That and I don't weld that great yet. |
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#730 |
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Fvck New Jersey
Age: 21
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,535
Location: Reynoldsville, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
i welded my entire SAS with my 110. if you are unsure of good pen. just bevel the plates
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#731 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
changing the position on the spring can affect the caster. my perches are tipped back because they are not on the crest of the arc of the spring, but forward of it like 6". my caster to perch angle is way off from "normal" and it would have lots of positive caster if put on springs with a centered pin.
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#732 |
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3 Leaf Fab
Age: 25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,880
Location: Springfield, OR User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
also, i have experience welding to cast. it should be the same, but my d44 front is cast steel, not cast iron. you can weld it with MIG like you would mild steel. you may want to preheat though. my 14 bolt on the other hand, that one was cast iron and my attempts at MIGing it caused kinda porous welds, and it leaks oil out of them.
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#733 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Well I tried to weld it this morning and as soon as I hit the brakes the welds all broke and I almost bent my drag link. So idk what to do.
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#734 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Also I have a 110 Arc welder not MIG.
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#735 |
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Fvck New Jersey
Age: 21
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,535
Location: Reynoldsville, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
what rods you using? did you bevel it? crank your welder up the whole way and burn in a 6010 then cover it with a 7018.
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#736 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I used 1/8" 6013 I have some 3/16" 6013 I can try. And my welder was only on like 75 or 80.
So I can try the bigger rods tomorrow AND crank the welder up AND bevel the perches. Hopefully I can do that tomorrow morning. Then all I need are shocks and the drive shaft. Last edited by Baggey22 : 08-19-2008 at 12:01 AM. |
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#737 |
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GAVE his truck to 96super
Age: 19
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,290
Location: burtonsville, maryland User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
i just bought baggey a bag of bolts
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#738 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#739 |
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GAVE his truck to 96super
Age: 19
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,290
Location: burtonsville, maryland User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
use the money to buy a bag of bolts or maybe a camera so you can take more pictures but i feel a lone im the only non SFA or person from vermont to post in the last 3 pages lol
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#740 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
I have a camera. Theres just nothing to take pictures of cause I haven't made any progress lately.
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#741 |
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Registered User
Age: 29
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 115
Location: Dade County, MO User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
???????chris??????? |
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#742 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Chris is front Vermont. Hence the name ChrisinVT
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#743 |
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Registered User
Age: 29
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 115
Location: Dade County, MO User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#744 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#745 |
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GAVE his truck to 96super
Age: 19
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,290
Location: burtonsville, maryland User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
![]() my last commet still stands |
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#746 |
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Registered User
Age: 25
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,029
Location: Sugar Notch, PA User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
OK??
Whats your point? And what are you even talking about? Im just not gettin it. |
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#747 |
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Slightly Over Built
Age: 35
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,225
Location: Chelsea, OK User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Me either.
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#748 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
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#749 |
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Registered User
Age: 23
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,086
Location: Johnson, Vermont User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
The only comment I don't get is the bag of bolts one. The rest make sense, he's saying that in the last 3 pages the only people to have posted in this thread EITHER have an SAS'd s10 OR are from Vermont. Which he is neither.
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#750 |
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I Rather Be Wheelin'
Age: 26
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,198
Location: The Woods, VT User is: OffLine |
Re: Project: 1995 s10 SAS
Thank god, because I'd go to his house and take his PC from him.
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