Project: 1995 s10 SAS

[Baggey22]

Go drink LOTS of milk and use those containers
But do you have the know how to do the tires? Maybe you can come here one day and we can do the tires and I'll give you a bucket to drain the radiator. Then once you get the radiator out we can meet and get those skid plates and you can give me the radiator and bucket.
You really need to live closer to me.

[Tim99Zr2]

no, you really need to post pics with tires on that fuggin thing

[Baggey22]

I can't right now, I either need to get Chris's radiator installed so I can drive to get the tires put on OR Chris needs to come over and help me put them on cause I don't have the tools or the knowledge on how to do it.

[Tim99Zr2]

jeeze, all you need is a mini sledge and a pry bar or two... PUSS!!! its that damned purple axle makin you scared!!

edit: some soapy water helps tooo

[ChrisInVT]

All my milk bottles are filled with oil or ATF, seriously I have like 8 gallons of the shit. I'm actually waiting for my current milk container so I can drain the ATF out of my oil change pan from the filter and fluid change I just did on the truck. The ATF bottles I already filled up with other shit trying to consolidate all the fluids

Yeah, any point in time just LMK and I can come up there and help you out. Shit, the coolant in the parts truck isn't bad either if for some reason you want to re-use it. The guy put it in the truck before selling it because he thought that's another reason it wouldn't start

Morrisville isn't too much of a hike for me (well, with my gas mileage it is, but still) to come help you out when ya need it. If anything I can always stop by my friend Chris's house and help him work on his racing mower while I'm out there...

OHHH speaking of that, the race is postponed until the 3rd weekend in August. So the race will be the 16th in Woodbury, VT. If you can't find a mower to prep in time, LMK and I'll see if I can dig one up for ya. And as for the pictures from the fun you missed out on July 4th, here's a few that I uploaded. Man, wheelin' that freaking Humvee was a BLAST!

http://www.atlma.us/index.php/topic,370.0.html

[Baggey22]

Yea I'm gonna need your help soon for the exhaust. When I was doing the driveshaft I took a look at the exhaust on the driver's side and I think it CAN be done with just random pieces from a parts store. So if thats true I may have you weld it up. Think you can do it with my 110 arc? We don't have any 220 plugs here and I don't know what you have for welding stuff.
You should come here Monday or Tuesday and we can do my tires

[tfpets]

On your trans/t-case issue, did you replace the gasket or use silicone between them when you put it together?? If the seal on the back of the trans is leaking it will go into the void between them...was there a lot of fluid in there when you took the 233 off?? If there was, then the seal is leaking, and if you didnt seal the seam when you put it back together then it will just drip out...best case scenario would be to pull the t-case back off and put in a new rear trans seal and seal the seam with silicone when you put it back together...

[Baggey22]

I didn't even know there was a seal between the two. And when I pulled the 233 off the only place fluid came out was the output shaft of the 233. The trans was fine.
So you're saying separate them and put a bead of silicone where they meet?

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I didn't even know there was a seal between the two. And when I pulled the 233 off the only place fluid came out was the output shaft of the 233. The trans was fine.
So you're saying separate them and put a bead of silicone where they meet?

Yep, thats what I did with mine.

[tfpets]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I didn't even know there was a seal between the two. And when I pulled the 233 off the only place fluid came out was the output shaft of the 233. The trans was fine.
So you're saying separate them and put a bead of silicone where they meet?

Well there is a seal on the output of the trans shaft and usual practice is to seal the seam of the trans/tcase so that customers dont freak out when they see the occasional drip on the driveway...now if its leaking a lot the trans output should be sealed before you put the tcase back on...there is also the possibility the tcase input seal could be leaking also and come to think of it that might be just as likely as the trans output...hell just tear it all back apart and replace the 2 seals and run a bead of silicone around the tcase flange before you put it back on...there problem solved!!! I wish you lived here so I could just finish that damn thing for you!!

[Baggey22]

What is involved in replacing those two seals?

[tfpets]

Step 1: Remove T-case
Step 2: Remove seals
Step 3: Find new seals
Step 4: Replace seals
Step 5: Install T-case

And I have been thinking about it and IF you say there was no fluid between them the first time, then the trans output is probably OK and your problem is most likely the input on the "new to you" Tcase...

[Donahue]

but if the fluid lose shows up on the dip stick, its the trans.

[Baggey22]

I think it's the trans myself. When I go to the parts store what seal do I ask for? Like specifically?

[tfpets]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I think it's the trans myself. When I go to the parts store what seal do I ask for? Like specifically?

I would call it the "transmission output shaft seal"...and the "transfer case input shaft seal" but honestly your best bet would be to get the old ones out and have them matched...and if at all possible try to get the numbers off of them before you pull them or try to preserve the numbers when you pull them, and your best bet might be a chevy dealer for actually getting what you need!

[96superflow]

Alright guys, i am in the beging stages of planning my sas into my 1996 4dr blazer. I guess this would be the best place to begin my questions, so if yall dont mind helping me out, i would really appreciate it.

Ive pretty much decided that it is going to have to be a leaf spring setup, since a 3 or 4 link is out of the question with the parts and fab needed would be way out of my college student budget. i understand that there needs to be a front spring cross member fabbed up, but what about deminsions? would they depend on the axle? What leaves would work the best? i have thought about full size rough country ez rides, but dont know about the length. which axle would be the simplest to swap in, a d30 out of a yj? or should i just save up and find a d44 for the strength. how about the rear mount? of course it will be shackles but how do you determine where at on the frame to drill the holes? should sleeves be welded in? then steering comes into play. can i set it up in my back yard, enough to get it to the alignment shop. is a drop pittman needed, or would a cross over be a better choice? How is this beast going to stop? can the factory abs still function for streeting purposes? then how about the transfer case and front drive shaft. I have the push button electronic, but w/o the auto trac, could that still be used? i can figure out what im going to do about the rear end and little things such as the bolt patterns later, i would just like some of these major concerns taken care of and have a good idea of what is going to be done. eventually i would like to run a 35- 37" tire, so my guess would be to build it that way the first time and not have to redue it. This will be a general purpose street/ off road vehicle to wheel in as well as a special purpose rescue vehicle for the fire dept that im a member of and then one day give it to my nephew. it will not be a DD i have an 01 tahoe for that. Realiability is also one of my concerns, hence the reason for going to solid axle of course.

I really appreciate anything i can get help with on my dream of swapping one of these solid axles in my blazer. Thanks guys

[tfpets]

I would suggest you read COMPLETELY through this thread, it will answer a lot of to the point questions...then I would personally suggest reading through this thread http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f134/a...thread-341417/ ...Then maybe search around for several of the other recent sas threads...then if you have anymore questions start a new thread and get started!!

[Baggey22]

Quote: Originally Posted by tfpets

I would call it the "transmission output shaft seal"...and the "transfer case input shaft seal" but honestly your best bet would be to get the old ones out and have them matched...and if at all possible try to get the numbers off of them before you pull them or try to preserve the numbers when you pull them, and your best bet might be a chevy dealer for actually getting what you need!

Okay, now is there a special way to get the old transmission output shaft seal out? Like what exactly do I have to do. I know I have to take the transfer case off first. Then what?

[tfpets]

Small screwdrivers and picks are your friends!! No real "way" to do it just dont gouge the aluminum to bad if you can help it...and I usually put a thin layer of RTV around the outside of seals before I install them and also be sure to grease the lip a bit...

[Baggey22]

Okay, I'm just having a hard time picturing exactly what you are saying because I took the Tcase off over a month ago. Once I get it taken apart if I have any questions I'll let you know.

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by 96superflow

Alright guys, i am in the beging stages of planning my sas into my 1996 4dr blazer. I guess this would be the best place to begin my questions, so if yall dont mind helping me out, i would really appreciate it.

Ive pretty much decided that it is going to have to be a leaf spring setup, since a 3 or 4 link is out of the question with the parts and fab needed would be way out of my college student budget. i understand that there needs to be a front spring cross member fabbed up, but what about deminsions? would they depend on the axle? What leaves would work the best? i have thought about full size rough country ez rides, but dont know about the length. which axle would be the simplest to swap in, a d30 out of a yj? or should i just save up and find a d44 for the strength. how about the rear mount? of course it will be shackles but how do you determine where at on the frame to drill the holes? should sleeves be welded in? then steering comes into play. can i set it up in my back yard, enough to get it to the alignment shop. is a drop pittman needed, or would a cross over be a better choice? How is this beast going to stop? can the factory abs still function for streeting purposes? then how about the transfer case and front drive shaft. I have the push button electronic, but w/o the auto trac, could that still be used? i can figure out what im going to do about the rear end and little things such as the bolt patterns later, i would just like some of these major concerns taken care of and have a good idea of what is going to be done. eventually i would like to run a 35- 37" tire, so my guess would be to build it that way the first time and not have to redue it. This will be a general purpose street/ off road vehicle to wheel in as well as a special purpose rescue vehicle for the fire dept that im a member of and then one day give it to my nephew. it will not be a DD i have an 01 tahoe for that. Realiability is also one of my concerns, hence the reason for going to solid axle of course.

I really appreciate anything i can get help with on my dream of swapping one of these solid axles in my blazer. Thanks guys

you should start a new thread to keep this one clear of all the questions you are going to encounter. collectively im sure we can answer all your questions, and you should feel no shame in asking them, granted you try and search and figure out from past threads what you are trying to do.

[JollyGreenMini]

Quote: Originally Posted by Tim99Zr2

edit: some soapy water helps tooo

Yeah, soapy water helps, A LOT!

I too, like everyone else in this thread, want to see this thing with tires on it...

[Baggey22]

I just don't know exactly how to put the tires on. I understand the concept but don't want to do any damage to my BRAND new tires.
If someone could explain step by step on how to do it OR provide a video or something then I'd consider it more.

[Tim99Zr2]

basically the same as this..
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SSUFZ8UzkLo



just make sure you take the valve stem OUT
http://youtube.com/watch?v=nGj6dtJluKE&feature=related

just search vids on youtube

[tfpets]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

I just don't know exactly how to put the tires on. I understand the concept but don't want to do any damage to my BRAND new tires.
If someone could explain step by step on how to do it OR provide a video or something then I'd consider it more.

Ok what ya gonna do is!...Start a paypal account, give everyone on here the name of said account, and anyone who wants your tires on can put $10 in that account so you can go pay a professional to mount and balance the damn tires!! I mean jeez you had the money to buy them, why dont you have the money to get them installed??

[ChrisInVT]

Don't do ether/starting fluid - that's just dumb.

I can understand the need to do it on a trail for a quick fix - but other than that it's a stupid idea.

And due, it only costs $40 to get them mounted/balanced. I'll even load that shit up in my truck and drive you to get them mounted.

[Baggey22]

It's not money that's the issue. I have money. It's just I work Monday through Saturday ALL day and places around me aren't open on Sundays. So finding time to get them done is hard. Plus it's not extremely important to me to get them done. I'd rather get things like the trans leak, radiator fixed, and get the transfer case crossmember made before I get the tires on.
I may take you up on that Chris, trying to fit four 33s and four 34s in my Blazer may be near impossible.
But if people want to send me money I already have a PayPal account

[tfpets]

Hey stick to your list of priorites then!...you know what you need to do...dont let them bully you!...what did you end up with for a driveline??

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Tim99Zr2

basically the same as this..
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SSUFZ8UzkLo



just make sure you take the valve stem OUT
http://youtube.com/watch?v=nGj6dtJluKE&feature=related

just search vids on youtube

Damn, I never had a tire that was that easy to take off and put back on. You would never be able to break the bead the way that guy did it. But thats the process to a T.

[Baggey22]

For the driveline I just used what I had. I got my drive shaft lengthened and it's worked out great so far. I have a second one too that I just have to get lengthened and another flange for the 8.8, so I have a trail spare!

[Donahue]

i will never pay someone to mount my tires for me again. we do every set of tires by hand at my house. its really too easy to pay someone to do it, plus paying somebody to balance a tire over 33" is just throwing money out the widow.

we use starting fluid every time, there is absolutely nothing wrong with it if you practice some common sense and a bit of safety.

the last set we did was a set of 38.5x11x15 boggers. start to finish it took 30 mins tops. and it does not hurt the tire unless you are an idiot, tires are fairly tough. i would not use a big maul looking thing like in that video. just apply weight on it either from driving over the tire (not the rim, just the tire) or a high lift jack right at the bead (lifting up something heavy like the truck).

i balance my tires at home with BB's using the dynamic balancing method.

[Tim99Zr2]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

you should start a new thread to keep this one clear of all the questions you are going to encounter. collectively im sure we can answer all your questions, and you should feel no shame in asking them, granted you try and search and figure out from past threads what you are trying to do.

x2, i can answer most of them

[Baggey22]

Update: Not really an update, more of an I'm putting things on hold for a few days.
I was planning on starting to get things going tomorrow afternoon and continue to plug away at it on afternoon and evenings. But my grandfather passed away about an hour and a half ago and I have to head home for a few days.
My grandfather was very important to me. I get a lot of my work ethic and drive to fabricate things from him. Hell 90% of my tools are his from when he was my age. He had cancer linked to asbestos exposure.
So basically I'm dedicating this entire project to him. Because to be honest without any of his tools I don't think I would ever have even bought Sally in the first place because I wouldn't have ANYTHING to work on her with.
I know you guys want to see it done as much as I do so I guarantee it'll get done in due time.
I'll probably still be on the forum while I'm at home just not near the truck but as soon as I get back it's go time. Expect updates.

[wrekd]

That sucks to hear man. Just do what ya gotta do.

[DieselS10]

I'm sorry to hear that Baggey.

[ChrisInVT]

Hate to hear that man, sorry for your loss.

You know I'm here if you need anything

[Merritt]

sorry to hear about your loss, just remember that he's in a better place

thoughts and prayers are with you and your family

[Baggey22]

So my grandfather's wake is tomorrow evening and the funeral is tomorrow morning. I'll be back in Vermont around 4:00 Saturday JUST in time to go to work for the night. Then on Sunday I plan to get stuff done on the truck.
I got a new transmission output seal ready to go in, and I want to get my tailgate started and maybe even done. If those get done faster than I think then I'm probably going to take out the old radiator.
Next Sunday (Chris I may need/want your help) I plan on ripping out the F150 leafs (front suspension) and refabricating some things to make my shorter (better) Blazer hybrid leafs work. If there's time on that same day I'll tackle the transfer case cross member and put the front drive shaft in. Once the springs are in I can measure for shocks and get them ordered. Then installed the day or next day when they come in. Once shocks are in (and the radiator) I'll drive it to a mechanic and get the 34s put on. After that it's test time. So hopefully two or three Sundays and I'll have the truck trail ready. I'll keep you all posted.
Having my grandfather pass away has given me more motivation to finish this project than I could have ever imagined possible. It will get done, and done soon.

[ChrisInVT]

I'll let you know about Sunday. It's my friend's wedding that Saturday, so I'm not sure what's going to be going on Sunday.

[Tim99Zr2]

very sorry.

but that is good you are going to wrap it up! hit some trails for him.

[Baggey22]

Update: I attempted to get the transmission output seal . . . it didn't go so well. I got the transfer case off and then my room mate needed help with his radiator. So I spent an hour or two on that so that he could get to some play or something that his g/f wanted to see (I mostly helped to keep her quiet) After that I got some lunch. When I got back to the truck I realized shortly after getting under the truck that I had gotten the wrong gasket from the auto parts store. So after all that I had to put everything back together and all I really got accomplished was I reconnected the exhaust and fixed a connection on the electric fan.
Kinda shitty, but I plan on starting the tailgate tomorrow or Tuesday, so hopefully that will work out better than the transmission.

Question about the transmission: When I was hooking the transfer case back up I noticed that one of the 4 vaccuum lines had a small burnt hole in it from accidently resting on the exhaust. Would this cause my transmission to not work properly? Basically what it's doing is taking A LOT more RPMs to get the truck to move.
I don't know a lot about transmissions so any help is GREAT!

And Chris let me know about Sunday, I'd like to redo my front leafs and could use your welding help, maybe even reroute my exhaust while we're at it.

[Baggey22]

Update: I started my tailgate today. Didn't accomplish much because I was only out there for an hour. And some of it I was helping my landlord get gasoline off the side of his PT Loser. I only got like 4 or 5 welds done when my landlord came out and asked that I weld 20 feet AWAY from the house cause he thought I was going to blow my truck up. So instead of dragging it all out into the driveway just to have to drag it back like 30 minutes later I just said F it for the night. I was just getting the hang of welding too.
SO now that brings up a question, is it safe to weld my 100amp arc welder on an extension cord? I assume there shouldn't be any problem but I just want to check first.

[ChrisInVT]

Quote: Originally Posted by Baggey22

is it safe to weld my 100amp arc welder on an extension cord? I assume there shouldn't be any problem but I just want to check first.

Depends on if the cord is rated for it or not. I have both a 25' and 100' extension cord rated for 150A, but they weren't cheap.

If it's one of those crappy orange ones, I wouldn't bother. You'll overload it, which could cause a fire. And on top of that your welder won't have the amount of power that it wants. Goes back to the old saying... Shit in, shit out.

[Baggey22]

I can get an extension cord from my theatre that is used for the stage lights. I'll just swap the ends to match the welder. Internally it's 12 gauge wire. Is that enough?

[ChrisInVT]

Depending on the length, you might be alright - but I personally wouldn't go with anything less than 10g

[Baggey22]

Well I'll get one today or tomorrow and try some welds, after each weld I'll check to see if the extension cord is hot. If it starts to get too hot I'll get a bigger one.

[ChrisInVT]

So... You finish the tailgate?

[Tim99Zr2]

or tires mounted?

[Donahue]

im starting to believe the tires are a myth...

[DieselS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

im starting to believe the tires are a myth...

x2