91 s10 4wd sas conversion

[bouchee2007]

alright i figured its time to post up some progress pictures. so here goes, let me know what you think

[bouchee2007]

[bouchee2007]

[bouchee2007]

and then can someone identify this axle. i believe its the dana 30 passenger side drop. but the assurance would be nice when it comes time to replace parts.

[steve_kibbe]

That axle came from a 70's CJ7.
I don't know what exact year had them.

[Donahue]

its a d30. you may want to use a different axle though, its too narrow for the s10 body. something about in the 60" range is what you should be looking for at the minimum. you will also likely find that the spring spacing on the CJ axle will be way too narrow for the s10 frame, and the shackles will have to be like 10" inside on both sides.

you should have kept the utility box and paint scheme

[bouchee2007]

now a lot of people have said that this axle is to narrow for this frame, why exactly is that , i slide this axle under the chasis and it looks like it is wider that the stock IFS.

[BillaksBlazer]

that axle is in the 54" wide range. the stock ifs is around 59-60". thats hard to make up 6" with wheels, and your tires would most likely hit the frame on turns.

[Donahue]

the stock tires will almost hit the frame on turns, with this axle, it will for sure hit. since you are starting with a 2wd, they are 4" narrower than the 4wd's. the stock 4wd is like 60", and the 2wd should be 56". the 2wd guys need to run either spacers or wider suspension to run the taller/wider tires.

[bouchee2007]

alright makes sense

[bouchee2007]

ok well im in the market for a new d30 so i can use the tranny and t-case setup i just got . is there any way i can swap my locking hubs from one d30 to another?

[bouchee2007]

anyone know if you can you can swap the locking hubs on the passengerside diff d30 to a d30 with a driverside diff???

[BillaksBlazer]

no the newer d30s have a unit bearing hub. they are non switchable

[bouchee2007]

ok, this project needs to get off the ground soon so i can get the truck on the road so im just going to put this out there. i need the width of the truck to remain as close to stock as possible an inch or two wider isnt a problem. and i need to have manual hubs of it with dirverside drop. any info would be appreicated

[BillaksBlazer]

waggy d44 would be the only option beside a custom axle.

[Donahue]

can you just swap knuckles out onto the new axle? wouldnt this allow you to run all the old parts including the hubs?

[wrekd]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

can you just swap knuckles out onto the new axle? wouldnt this allow you to run all the old parts including the hubs?

Are the axle shaft u-joint sizes different??

[Donahue]

Quote: Originally Posted by wrekd

Are the axle shaft u-joint sizes different??

i have no idea.

[BillaksBlazer]

i have looked into it. the knuckles are different sizes, you could cut the c's off the old axle and weld them on the new one. You would also have to get chromo axles for the outer from the cj axle with the larger u joint size. you also have to grind the hole in the knuckle bigger to fit the larger u joint through it. at this point you would have 2k into the d30. lol

I mean its cool and not like i looked into it or anything.

[bouchee2007]

im most likely going with a d44, it will solve a lot of problems. is there a d44 that would be a good fit for my truck. would something out a dodge or f150 be a good fit? any suggestions at this point would be great, hopefully i can find something that is common.

[bouchee2007]

heres a random question, whats the easiest way to salvage a tranny and t-case from a 1990 s10 blazer. i need to pull it to save a few hundred. its sitting in a junk yard, newly added to the yard so i want to jump on it as soon as i can. any tips or trick to the trade to remove it. speed isnt really top priority, mainly ease

[Golana]

Quote: Originally Posted by bouchee2007

heres a random question, whats the easiest way to salvage a tranny and t-case from a 1990 s10 blazer. i need to pull it to save a few hundred. its sitting in a junk yard, newly added to the yard so i want to jump on it as soon as i can. any tips or trick to the trade to remove it. speed isnt really top priority, mainly ease

bring a sawzall. cut through anything that gets in your way.

being a 3ft extension and a swivel for a ratchet as well, so you can get the bellhousing bolts easier. i believe that are 14mm or 9/16"

[bouchee2007]

alright progress is slow, i managed to unbolt all of the IFS so now im comited to the project. the exhaust is partially off, the bracket holding on the cat is also bolted to the tranny? im guessing its gm's sense of humor. tommorow its geting cut off for good, who needs the cat anyway. and hopefully to hte junkyard to pull a 4x4 tranny and t-case out of a 1990 s10 blazer.

[bouchee2007]

got the trany out today and that was a bitch. took 4 hours to get teh exaust and trany unbolted and another 30 min just to lower it down. but none the les its done and over with, now i just have to get the other tranny and t-case and drop it in.

[bubbagt57]

Quote: Originally Posted by bouchee2007

got the trany out today and that was a bitch. took 4 hours to get teh exaust and trany unbolted and another 30 min just to lower it down. but none the les its done and over with, now i just have to get the other tranny and t-case and drop it in.

well that's the problem you need to go from the bottom up not vice versa lol

[bouchee2007]

how many of you guys have problems getting your rigs inspected because of height requirements?

[bubbagt57]

I know people plus I work/am becoming a Maryland State Inspector

[Donahue]

where i live in oregon does not have inpection period. and i am working on being able to remove my trans from above, i can already remove both t-cases

[DieselS10]

Quote: Originally Posted by Donahue

where i live in oregon does not have inpection period.

Same here. Ain't it great!

[Tim99Zr2]

fvck off guys.!

[bubbagt57]

We have one in maryalnd when you first tag the car

[bouchee2007]

alright guys need some information. im looking at a set of dana axles out of a jeep j10 pioneer. iknow the front is a dana 44 but does anyone know what the rear is? and will this be a good choice in axle for my truck. im trying to keep the width with in reason.

[bouchee2007]

[bouchee2007]

what have you guys done for rear brake lines, as far as the rubber line running down to the axle?

[Baggey22]

I got a 6" stainless brake line kit for a YJ. came with two lines for the front and one line for the rear.

[bouchee2007]

[bouchee2007]

aproval on shackel mounting?

[Baggey22]

I'd say box it in if you can

[96superflow]

Yeah def what baggey said. Better to do it over kill, then take a chance and than leaving you stranded or in an accident.

[bouchee2007]

today was a good day i got a lot of the front end squared away and finalyl got the front axle in, bt now im looking at another problem , the front drive shaft is at an angle in which it wont turn. the angle that the t-case makes with the driveshaft is to extreme, what are some solutions. anything would be helpful at this point

[bouchee2007]

[local12hand]

Gotta cut the c's off turn the pinion up and re-weld them... The c's are what the ball joints bolt to... Someone will probably chime in on exacly what the numbers are but start grinding the welds off and get the C's loose and then get your pinion pionted to where it doesn't bind at the t-case or pinion and set the caster the same on both sides it should be around 7 degrees tilted back

[bouchee2007]

now dont shoot me for saying it, but is this a "garentee" fix for the issue. granted everything comes with its problems but what wuld be the all else fails situation if it still binds. i know there are people on here with a more extreme set up then i do. and i figured that i would have to go that route. thanks for the info.

[bouchee2007]

also how important are front driveline angles? do they need to match up as closely as the rear drive shaft?

[Baggey22]

Are you using a CV style front drive shaft?
That might help your angle if you're not

[bouchee2007]

i was looking into those but i was reading on some site that they dont help with difficult angles, im up to try anything at this point. are cv joints standard and will it hold up to abuse

[MTchevyS10]

Generally, the main resolutions to this problem are fixed in at least the 3 manners, possibly a few others:

1. "Clock" the transfer case to a lower angle.

2. Tilt the pinion up higher to alleviate the driveshaft angle.

3. If, by tilting up the pinion angle, the castor (angle from the lower ball joint to the upper ball joint on the knuckle) is distorted too much (up to 6* is pretty common), then, to insure safety on the road and hopefully eliminate any "death wobble," etc., you would want to cut and turn the inner knuckles (the "C's").

[bouchee2007]

how easy is it to clock the t-case

[DieselS10]

Judging by your pics I'd say that you going to have to rotate the pinion up....a lot. Check out BuzzerPB's thread, http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f221/93-jimmyd-397741/, he did the same thing and took pics starting at post #41. You "might" get by with clocking the case and buying a high angle driveline, but I can tell you from experience that a drive shaft that will hit those angles will set you back $500+++.

[BigBoy70]

there is a simple solution to this problem........but only if you intend it to be a trailer queen.

If you intend to drive it on the road I suggest the above posts.........

If it will be trail driven only you can change the yoke position by changing the spring perch location. Although most people will disagree with this, I have found it works resonable well in small amounts. too much and oiller will not work properly for the ring gear.