Street and Performance LS1 harness???

[MetalJunkie]

Ive been looking at street and performance on the net and seems like they got some good stuff. Just wondering if anyone has heard anything bad about there wiring harnesses for LS1 swaps or are they any different than a painless harness. Since im not running EGR, A.I.R, or cats it sounds like a good deal. They advertise 4 wire hookup with there harness but you got to use a 98 year model computer, and they suggest converting to a return type fuel rail. There harnesses are $795 bucks and 98 model computers with custom programming are $250 with harness purchase. I know its a good deal more than painless, but i dont know how straight foward the hook up is with Painless. As long as the S&P harness wouldnt burn my truck down...it sounds like a good deal. So anybody heard about or experienced the quality of there work/products?

BTW...heres a link to there site http://www.hotrodlane.cc/

[CPWire]

I nmy completely unbiased opinion, they are crap.
#1. They are covered entirely with heat shrink which hardens and looks like crap over time.
#2. One of the trucks that they brag about (a 98 Sonoma owned by Don Olsen) that hey installed an LS1 engine in was eventually brought down to have the engine completely removed and reinstalled because they screwed it up so bad. Then we just made a whole new harness to replace the one they did and it was all better.
#3. $795 and you still have to splice it in?? ouch.

[v8power]

I agree. isnt it just for 98 models only ?

[MetalJunkie]

I looked at your site Jared and saw your engine managment systems for LS1's. What i want to do is if possible and its not too expensive mount the computer inside the cab and keep the engine bay fairly clean. Basically i dont need any wires for A.I.R,E.G.R, cruise, a/c, or rear O2 sensors and im also running a 4L60E and its a 2000 trans am computer.. Also, the site specifies that you do programming as well, after programming do you "Lock" the ecu? Because i plan on starting out stock except for a LS6 intake, but later plan on adding heads,cam, and stall and i dont want to have to buy another ECU. About how much am i looking at for a managment harness long enough for the ECU to mount in the cab and to program my ECU? Also roughly how long would it take to get everything back to me? Thanks for your help.

[LS1-STen]

Go with Jared and Current Performance Wiring. Then you will have a plug and play, no muss and no fuss.

[MetalJunkie]

Im still waiting to talk to Jared. I believe im going to call tomorrow and see if i can speak with him.

[RedSpeck_09]

use jared. you won't be sorry. the customer service is outstanding. i talked to him for 20 minutes this afternoon. the harness looks awesome and works great. give him a call. if he doesn't answer, leave a message and he'll call you back. he's always called me back within the day, except for one time he called me at 6:50 in the morning on my day off . some people do like to sleep you know

[CPWire]

Day off??? What's that???
Sorry Metal, I hadn't checked back on this posting after my first reply.
A harness like you want is more basic than a custom harness like most of the 2nd Gens use. Since you are deleting the A/C and all that other stuff, figure $650 for the harness built to your specs as mentioned. The LS1 programming is $425, and yes it gets locked. Sounds like you might just try S&P for the tuning, or Nelson Performance, or someone who basicly just uses LS1 edit.

[MetalJunkie]

Thanks for the reply, i just now got around to looking at the forum again. Roughly how long will it take from the day i place an order until i can have a finished harness at my door? Im going to go with one of your harnesses and im wondering around when i will need to place an order. If i can have the harness in about 3 weeks, that would be great! Also, im wondering if you wire the harnesses in to still take data from the coolant and oil pressure sensors so that it will aid in data logging at the track. Also, would it put me in the nature of a custom harness to have the fans operated by the computer or would it just be cheaper to use a thermal switch for an electric fan and find a place for the sending unit? And seeing how this is of electrical nature, when deleting the A.I.R. and all the tubes...i no longer need the electric vacuum switch on the A.I.R. valve located on the drivers side do i? BTW i changed over to a 6 speed, dont know if that effects anything price wise or not.

[PEKO]

Hey Metal... What are you going to do for cooling of the PCM if your mounting it inside the cab? Also Jarad did you get my PM?

[MetalJunkie]

Thats a concept i havent thought of, but i dont see why the computer case would need to have a cooling source. All of GM's computers before hand have been located under the dash of vehicles without any type of cooling besides ambient air, i didnt realize that LS1 computers had to have fresh air circulation. I personally for one dont see why air running across the outside of the case would effect the operating temp of the ECU because its a sealed unit, someone correct me if im wrong...i probably am. Im just asking what makes the LS1 computer so special? All other cars mount there ECU under the dash. I cant see how mounting it on the interior firewall with a large amount of open space given the fiberglass dash, could possibly hurt the ECU. But if in some case it does need a fresh air supply besides rolling with the windows down, i can come up with a small duct taken from the cowl and route it to supply a small amount of fresh air over the case of the ECU. BTW Peko, the engine and tranny should be going in within the next couple weeks

[CPWire]

No one can convinve me that the computer is better off in the engine compartment than in the cab. Ever try to touch one of these things after a long drive in traffic on a hot day when they are mounted in the engine compartment? They get REAL hot out there. They are designed to withstand all sorts of temp. variations. Think about What an ECM mounted in the engine compartment really goes through in the northern states between heat and cold. I would htink you could put that thing anywhere in the cab you wanted and it would be better off than anywhere else.
Metal, I think the best thing is to give me a call anytime after 4 EST this week so we can work out the details that way. I can get it done in the 3 week time frame you want, but I would need to get all the information and such from you ASAP.
PEKO, yes I did get your PM, I am still trying to digest it.

[PEKO]

The only thing im saying is the F-bodies and all C-K trucks mount the PCM's under the hood for a reason. And they also have fins in the casing for a reason. Yes the engine compartment may get hot but there is a constant airflow.

[CPWire]

They have fins to dissapate the heat in the engine compartment.
If they still mounted them in the cab, they wouldn't need the fins.

[MetalJunkie]

Correct me if im wrong, but i believe the only computer that has fins in it is the 98 model. If i remember correctly my 2000 computer i got with the A4 was a smooth rectangular case, my current 98 M6 computer has fins. But honestly i cant see why it would be any different or get any hotter than a sub amp, we mount those inside our cabs and they also have cooling fins. Im pretty sure it will work just fine inside the cab........even if it doesnt and the thing melts down its not like there rare or expensive, 98 model reman's are like 150 bucks with a 50 dollar core. But im betting money it will be alright . I'm going to give you a call tomorrow Jared and give you my specs and any other info you need to get started.

Got the truck pan mounted up tonight along with the pickup tube. Looks like its going to fit a hell of alot better, i would have done a trial drop tonight but the old A4 was infront of the truck and i didnt feel like moving it. Well anyway, im off to try and figure out this damn bracket they gave me that is suppose to be a 2000 vette bracket.......im having my doubts as to if it really is or not cause i cant find a way to get the damn thing on there!

[PEKO]

Part # for the alternator and p/s pump bracket is 12578068. That fits all vettes. Make sure they got you the correct bracket.

[MetalJunkie]

Ya i got the right one ordered today, along with the pump brace and resevoir bracket. The one the old man gave me was for a 89-92 corvette LT1, i cant believe they actually let him work there. I told him it was the wrong bracket today and he tried to argue with me and say i just wasnt putting it on right. Thank god Gene got off vacation early and he came in and straightened it all out and hooked me up, guess it goes to show it pays to have friends in the parts department that actually know there ass from a hole in the ground. If everything else goes smoothly, i will have everything i need for the swap besides my harness by friday...and thats only because im waiting for my Spec 2 clutch and billet flywheel from Thunder Racing. Anybody wanna give me a rough estimate as to how much i need to cut out of the crossmember with the 5.3L truck pan? I know it needs to be 10-11 inches wide but how deep does the cut need to be roughly? I just need a good starting point so i wont have to try and put the motor in 3-4 times, it looks like the stock f-body mounts are going to go in the same place on the crossmemeber that the stock 2.8 mounts use to be. Im just going to weld them in place seeing how i never plan on using anything but a gen III motor in here

[PEKO]

We used Lees frame mounts. We have the Spec in both the trucks, they work great, As for the flywheel the green 96 has the Z06 flywheel and white im not sure. Hey Metal... What year is your S10?

[MetalJunkie]

Its a 87 reg cab shortbed. Using Lee's mounts is out of the question because i dont have 5 months to wait for them....so i can make my own in about a day and that'll do it. I was going to go with a centerforce but i needed a flywheel and Spec had a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate combo from Thunder Racing for roughly $570 so i went with it. From what i hear spec's are about the best clutches you can grab for a LS1 M6, so im sure ill be happy with it. BTW before i put the tranny on the motor, should i replace the throwout bearing assembly? The tranny has about 45K on it and apparently they rode the clutch like hell because the clutch disk is about gone and the flywheel and pressure plate have heat bluing and even a groove is ate into the flywheel. Im thinking about replacing it, but im not that experienced with the hydraulic throwout bearing to know exactly what lifespan it has or how well it handles wear.There really isnt any noticable wear on the front of the throwout bearing so i dont have a clue. Also, i noticed today while i was at my friends junkyard that the pilot bearing in the motor my tranny come from has the needles towards the crank with the small flat facing the transmission. I installed mine with the needles facing out because i figured the taper went towards the tranny, will it hurt anything with it tapered to the tranny or should i pull it out and buy another?

[PEKO]

About the pilot bearing im not sure. As for the throwout, I guess it cant hurt. Not sure the life expectancy fot them. And im sure you saw but the throwout bearing and slave cylinder is all obe unit. Just a hydraulic line and a bleeder coming out of the trans.

[MetalJunkie]

Ya the throwout bearing is connected to the slave with the -4an braided line and it has those special clips. Im getting a slave off a 2002 car with 3K miles but the hose is fkd so ill have to buy a new one and do the drill mod. The new hose comes with the clip on the end right?

[MetalJunkie]

okay my bad, i was getting the slave and the clutch master cylinder messed up. Looks like im going to have to buy a new hydraulic throwout bearing as well. Where the line goes into the slave its busted up and kinda bent and i didnt notice it before hand. And i got the correct bracket, balancer, and idler pulley today....rest of the stuff "might" be in tomorrow but he said probably monday. I hate waiting on parts

[RedSpeck_09]

i know the feeling man. waiting on parts covered half the time for my swap. about the throwout bearing, i'd go ahead and change it. while you have it all apart, it'll be a lot easier. once you get the tranny and engine in there, its tough to drop the tranny. take care of it while its easy. better safe than sorry.

[MetalJunkie]

Ya im going to, hopefully they will have it in stock. I fi have to order anything else from my dealer im going to pull my hair out. I think im going to take pics and write down all the part numbers of stuff you need and post it and maybe we can make it a sticky so it will be easy for anyone else that does the swap. Im going to get alot of close shots of the crossmember getting notched and how i reinforce it and so on. Im shooting to get the motor and tranny in and bolted up by next friday. Just got off the phone with Jared and hes going to get started on my harness monday after next, cant wait till its finished....i bet its going to be sweet.