s10 + t56 + TURBO + LS1 = Schwab Shop Customs

[turbobandit]

Here's a link to my build thread: it's on LS1 tech
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...p-customs.html

Hey guys, So i did a little swap here... Just an LS1 with a six speed, a turbo, and some other parts.
Camaro parts, GTO parts, corvette parts, truck parts, etc. haha






Basic rundown of the numerical alphabet soup plans.
S10 - truck
LS1, basic strength mods. ARP rodbolts, headbolts, Compcam Valve springs, pushrods
GM Hotcam
BRIB underdrive pulley
T56 - 6 speed
T70 Turbocharger (single) 8psi to start
8.8 - Ford rear end 3.73 gears, limited slip, disc brakes, ladder bars (5.0 explorer rear end)
8.8 Rear end is 31 spline!!!! Yes!


Car: 2000 Chevy S-10 Single cab Short bed
Owner: Kevin Schwab (Schwab Shop Customs)
Block: LS1, 347 cid
Compression ratio: 10.0:1
Heads: Stock LS1, 2.00-inch intake, 1.55-inch exhaust valves
Cam: GM hotcam. 112LSA
Pushrods: COMP Cams hardened
Rocker arms: Stock 1.7 ratio
Pistons: Stock –for now
Crankshaft: Stock nodular iron
Rods: Stock powdered metal
Throttle body: Ported stock
Fuel injectors: Siemens 60 lb/hr
Fuel pump: Dual Walbro GS340
Ignition: Stock coil on plug, NGK TR6 plugs
Engine management: Base from Jared: CPW, Final tune by owner
Power adder: T70 turbo .82 turbine a/r, .70 compressor a/r
Boost: 8 psi
Intercooler: To Be Determined
Wastegate: TurboXS 38mm
Exhaust system: Sanderson Shorty LS1 S-10 Conversion Headers
Transmission: T56 built by owner
Clutch: Fidanza 4.3 clutch. 6 puck sprung disc
Front suspension: Stock
Rear suspension: Ladder bars, c5 corvette rear sway bar
Rearend: Ford 8.8, 31-spline axles, 3.73 gear, posi
Brakes: Stock front, Ford 8.8 Disc Rear


Price List:
Wire Harness and ECU Reflash
Ceramic coated headers
Engine Mounts 1500
S10v8 Oil Pan kit 305
Transmission / flywheel / shifter 800
Bellhousing 150
Cable throttle body 50
60 lbs Siemens Injectors 300
Fidanza 4.3 Clutch Kit 445
T70 Turbocharger 225
T56 Rebuild kit TheGearBox.org 240
ARP Head Bolts 100
ARP Rod Bolts 75
CompCam Valve springs / pushrods / retainers 370
Full Aluminum Radiator 150
Jegs 2.5” exhaust piping kit 230
Oil Sandwich Filter Plate 38
Wastegate 38mm 75
Blow of valve Type S 25
3” V-band flange and clamp 38
Ford 8.8 Rear End 436
Turbo inlet flange 20
Steel 3rd-4th Shift Fork 55
Oil feed / drain flanges 25
Transmission Yoke 45
Rear end Yoke 55
C5 Underdrive pulley 160
Headgaskets 50
GM Hotcam 110
LS2 Timing chain 50
AEM UEGO wideband o2 sensor 150
S10v8.com Membership! 10
turbo oil feed/drain flanges fittigns 22
electric oil pump 125
clutch ACT 380
misc. steel for fabrication 75
boost gauge/pod 50
Silicone connectors 75
tires / mount balancing ~500
wheel spacers 150
shocks x 4 85
chrome diff cover 20
fuel/coolant/oil lines 100
Walbro fuel pump 80


Total as of 8/13/2009: $7,940
plus cost of truck (1,000)
total build: $8,940 without labor! haha.

Still need some $ for the dyno and tune, better front suspenstion, sway bars, intercooler OR meth injection... still lots more to go.

[orangesonoma]

nice..

[SoLowXtreme]

nice project !

[702s10]

Nice. This is a mirror swap of what I want to do.

[lee-mill]

badass, i love how you say o just an ls1 with a turbo hahah

[KJF95S-10]

Damn you effin stole that T56! More pics please, I wanna see how you did the rear mount.

[turbobandit]

Side note.... This is the reason why i started it all: My poor poor 98 c5 coupe

Quote: Originally Posted by KJF95S-10

Damn you effin stole that T56! More pics please, I wanna see how you did the rear mount.

Did i forget to mention that the tranny was "Blown" when i bought it?
The 3/4th gear shift fork had snapped in half. Stock ones are crappy cast aluminum bananas. And just as squishy. I ordered up the upgrade parts, Bronze shift fork pads, Cast Steel shift forks, new carbon syncros. Would you believe the stock t56 syncros are made of paper?!?! Well, like cardboard really, but they suck. Much better now.



Rebuilding of the t-56:

Here, i'm holding the 1/2 gear cluster, and the reverse gear is on top. On the case is the 3/4 gear set and 5/6 gear set




^Shitty aluminum shift fork compared to cast steel one. Look at the tabs broken off the aluminum one... that's why it was "Blown"
















Making the rear-mount mid pipe.:










Ladder bars:







Chopped front springs a LITTLE too much.
Buying my friends 2" drop springs off him. Rear has 2" blocks




My c5 wagon wheels... Black with a red pin stripe.






Old 7.5 rear.... VS New-to-Me Ford 8.8!!!!!

[OneLowSdime]

looks like a sweet project!!

[XtremeRacer11]

dude i've been following ur project on LS1Tech...lol...project looks sweet bro...keep it up...

[fastoyzz]

Very Nice!!! looks awesome keep it up!!

[70welder]

looks sick dude

[1fast4by]

Bad f*cking ass... Subscribing

[yz85608]

damn
what size rubber will you have in the back?
and what oil pan did you run, factory ls1 i assume?

[gmullin]

did the rear end need to be shortend ?

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by yz85608

damn
what size rubber will you have in the back?
and what oil pan did you run, factory ls1 i assume?

Street tires for now. Stock C5 wagon wheels. Rears are 18x9.5 Sumitomo's 275 40 r18 Tires.

If i ever go to the track, i have a set of slicks i'll put on.

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by gmullin

did the rear end need to be shortend ?

Nope. The ford 8.8 is actually 6 inches wider hub to hub than the 7.5. However, i'm using C5 wheels, so i really needed inch and a quarter spacers.!

[turbobandit]

NEW VIDEO!!!!!!!!!

well... FIRST video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxjl4pWl_mI

[mr spree]

awesome

[KJF95S-10]

win

[Bootylicious]

wow, sick.

[iroc2nv]

Indeed nice !

[mr spree]

lets see some acceleration vids

[turbobandit]

No ripper vids yet... Hasn't been tuned yet... Got a few electrical issues to work out. Temp gauge and Fuel level gauge are not working, and when i plug in an OBD scanner(predator), it will not read when the truck is on... thus not allowing it to be tuned... so we'll have to get that settled before i can tune.


IN OTHER NEWS.... Race weight has been weighed... 3,440 lbs. Full tank of gas, with me in the truck (180lbs)
Full tank = 116lbs. (gas=6lbs/gallon @ 19gallons)
Me = 180 lbs.
_______________
Truck weight: 3144!!!!!!!!!

[The Griff]

Love those wheels, My buddy has a fixed coupe roof c5 w/ Z06 wheels with the red line like that. Sweet project man.

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by The Griff

Love those wheels, My buddy has a fixed coupe roof c5 w/ Z06 wheels with the red line like that. Sweet project man.

Thanks~
I know the c5 wagon wheels are hidous stock, but black, they always look sweet... i did the stripe, and my own logo to make them look a little cooler. i think it worked!

[turbobandit]

^ This is my rear oil catch tank. Oil flows from turbo and drains into this. That way, when i shut the truck off, oil has somewhere to drain, rather than sitting in the lines and baking, or sitting in the turbo

[iroc2nv]

I like those tires, same ones i have on my blazer, except there Eagle F1's.

[70welder]

i see your from RI? dude seats look f@ckin awesome, i love the red leather.

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by iroc2nv

I like those tires, same ones i have on my blazer, except there Eagle F1's.

my rears are Sumitomo's. 275x40 r18's. HTR2's. 98$ a piece shipped!!!
Fronts are Sunny's 245x45 r17's. 60$ a piece shipped!!!!!!

I'm a real good shopper (cough cough GOOGLE shopping search)

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by 70welder

i see your from RI? dude seats look f@ckin awesome, i love the red leather.

Yessir, RI! Seats came out of my buddy's 2004 GTO. They are acctually the REAR seats out of his gto hahaha! (there is now a nitrous bottle mounted in their place in the back of his goat.

[turbobandit]

NEW VIDEO!!!!!!!!!

well... FIRST video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxjl4pWl_mI

[70welder]

dude i cant wait to see it!! you best be bringin it to some shows when its done.

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by 70welder

dude i cant wait to see it!! you best be bringin it to some shows when its done.

I'll be at the ford show tomorrow. Tasca Ford, in RI

[Wishiwerfishinn]

i'm sorry dude but that tranny crossmember is janky as shit.
ladderbars? those aint ladder bars.

dunno dude, it could be a cool ass project w/ the parts you have but it just seems like it's all hodge podged together.

btw... nice metal prep.

[98noma97]

i want one lol
very nice work

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by Wishiwerfishinn

i'm sorry dude but that tranny crossmember is janky as shit.
ladderbars? those aint ladder bars.

dunno dude, it could be a cool ass project w/ the parts you have but it just seems like it's all hodge podged together.

btw... nice metal prep.

Not ladder bars? are you an idiot?!?!?! Yes they are, they prevent the axle from "wrapping up" the leaf spring.

And my trans cross member also holds up the turbo charger. It is what i had lying around, a piece of C channel. Brackets welded to the frame, and the cross member bolted to that. It's the KISS technique.... KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!!!!!!

not, it's not elabroate, but it's strong as shit. lets see you do some better fabrication with a welder and an angle grinder. And next time, do some research... find out what ladder bars are. Don't just ignorantly say "Those aren't ladder bars".

Out of the three forums i'm on, and the 6 months i've been doing this project, you are the first to say something other than a compliment. Congradulations on being deusche bag of the year.

[turbobandit]

Quote: Originally Posted by 98noma97

i want one lol
very nice work

Thanks~ I'll sell it to ya

[So Low Roller]

wow this thing is bad

[Wishiwerfishinn]

YOU sir need to do the research, those are NOT Ladder bars.
here i took it upon myself to find a real example for you.


and as far as better fabrication w/ an angle grinder... here you go.
this is the tranny crossmember i'm working on, all the work thus far... done w/ a cutoff wheel and a file... yes compound miter cuts done and fit by hand. but since were insulting on a personal level... you probably couldn't tell me what a compound miter cut is.

[KansasFabricator]

i follow some projects on forums i've been interested in but dude im sorry wishiwerfishinn hit that nail on the head, i had to make an account just to back him up........ladder bars get there name from there resemblence to a ladder......ie 2 bars with rungs......not one bar with some urithane bushings welded on the end.....what did u get them off of anyway cause they look used?............as for the crossmember ya its alright for a temporary mount but the truck looks really clean to be fuckin it up with a "hodge podge" piece like that.........what you built is similar to a caltrac except you put it on top of the axle rather than below.......ya it still prevents axle wrap up and tire hop but it is by no means a ladder bar........so dont call it a ladder bar........if u actually work in a fab shop im sorry cause no fab shop has just a grinder and a welder......thats an insult my occupation.........the truck looks good and sounds good just dont let anybody crawl under it and start checkin ur work out........anybody thats ever done real fabrication will not be impressed

[Gen210]

those bars are very similar to an f-body tq arm x2
http://bmrfabrication.com/torque%20arm/TA001.jpg

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...GM-F-Body.html

[Wishiwerfishinn]

yes ladder bars are similar to torque arms, except that torque arms are centrally located on the axle and there's only one, they aren't used as an axle locating device like a ladder bars are, they are primarily for controlling axle wrap/wheel hop.

[turbobandit]

I'm 23 years old, and Schwab Shop Customs is my nickname because i do everything myself. hahaha, no i'm not a real shop. I'm also a dual major for mechanical enginering, and Aviation operations and management, so i must have NO idea what you mean by a "compound miter cut".

All of you are ONLY giving examples of ladder bars for coil spring rear ends. Look into what a ladder bar is for a leaf spring setup. All my early years, i was building lift kits on jeeps, blazers, and pickups. A ladder bar is used to keep the angles true on the suspention travel. Whether it's top or bottom mounted, it works the same.
You guys keep bashing it that it's not a "Ladder or traction bar"... then what would you call it smart guys??? hahahaha.

Bottom mounted ladder bar: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1232...61437691MbDqEv



Who says a crossmember has to be curved? why does your exhaust have to run under it and not over it? Mine's strong enough to use as a jack point for my truck!!!!!



More of my FABRICATION:


Roll bars, suspension, front and rear bumpers


My bike, Made the frame, the rear sets, and the rear subframe, and the rear pass seat assembly, and upholstry.


My exhaust system for my 98 c5 vette






My 2004 suzuki bandit... TURBO KIT>>> 100% made by me. Intake manifold, charge pipes, exhaust header, and exhaust downpipe.

My boat trailer... 100% made by me. Bend the wishbone frame and all.




My 99 ZR2 All fab done by me. Lift, bumpers, roof rack, light bar.




Many pics of my honda... lots of setups through that car with over 400hp.


SO, in final, i must have no idea what i'm doing.

[mknight759]

Welll no need to be ugly about it some do better jobs than others but there's not that many of the turbo ls s10's so be proud of it no matter how ugly a weld is just grind it and paint it makes a world of difference

[Wishiwerfishinn]

...those are not ladder bars either...
seriously dude, i'm not trying to offend you, just set the facts strait.

if were going to give educational background, i'm 20 years old, and have attended and technically graduated from Wyotech in Automotive technology and the Business managment portion, i've added a 2nd major...Motorsports Chassis Fabrication ... where we specifcally go over rear suspension design and setup.

you may have heard that those are "ladder bars"... whoever told you that or gave you that idea is wrong. ladder bars technically are 2 parallel "bars" which each come off of their own single mounting point on a crossmember , then each bar extends to 2 mounting points on the axle. Ladder bars also has to have a lateral locating device (i.e. panhard bar.). i posted a prime example of exactly what Ladder bars are, there is not top mount ladder bar or bottom mount ladder bar design. they are what they are. you made a type of traction bar which will serve the purpose you want by keeping the axle from wrapping up, but again they are not ladder bars. more technical shit for you, if it's done right ladder bars technically can NOT be used w/ leaf springs... it can be done yes, but the spring will not function correctly, if you think about it when a leaf spring compresses it extends, the reason they have shackles, causing the axle to move rearwards. With true ladder bars they do not allow for forward or rearward movement of the axle so all you've accomplished w/ a setup like that is a half-ass working leafspring thats constantly binding itself up. so it has to be used with coil springs or coilovers.

and about your crossmember, take it to a real... respected automotive fab shop and see what they think about it. no it doesn't matter if it curves or is strait, exhaust over or under... but really C-channel and angle iron, my original comment on that still stands, it looks janky as shit! and invest in a wire wheel for your grinder, when metals clean it welds 20x better than trying to weld over rust.

if you want to get all butt hurt and start name calling go ahead, be my guest... i'm just tryin to help you out.

[turbobandit]

hahaha... you say ladder bars are TWO bars with two seperate mounting points. one upper, and one lower....

THEN you tell me there is no such thing as an upper and lower ladder bar?!?! Then you post a picture of a ladder bar that only has an upper mounting point, and it welds to the axle.

Those setups are only for coil springs. and Panhard bars are only for coil springs, NOT for leaf spring setups. Look under any truck with leaf springs from the factory... no panhard bar.

And FYI... these "ladder bars" of mine, came on the ford 8.8 axle out of the explorer. They were on the explorer from the FACTORY with LEAF springs... So you need to shut up and do some more learning. I'm pretty sure if it came from the factory like this, it was set up right.

You need to agree that there are more than only YOUR way of doing suspension setups. Yes, some work better than others... but that's why there are options. This worked for me.

I LOVE all you Wyotech fools... you think because you go to an automotive school, you know more than all us REAL WORLD guys. What i have is true and tested. It works. Function over form. Get the hell out of my thread becasue you have nothing good to say. Go back to school with your 1.5 GPA. Post some more of your fabrication. It's a damn crossmember, it goes under the truck. Doesn't need to look good. I guarantee i'll out-fab you in anything if i really wanted to. Let me see you build a slip in exhaust header for a bike. Let me see you design your own blow-through carb setup and calculate all the flow rates and ratios for pitot-static to ram air in the charge pipes. How many things have you fabricated on your own? and "technically" graduated is an E-thug poser. Good luck.

[lee-mill]

looks damn good man, that truck is badass

[Wishiwerfishinn]

dude, your a piece of work. your going to school to be a "mechanical engineer", they teach you everything about everything that has to do with some type of mechanical funciton, right? and then every correct terminology for automotive applications? right? didnt think so. keep on having fun with your pathetic excuse for "fabricating"... welding over rust, using c channel and angle iron on your cars.

and when i say 2 bars that means one left one right, that each mount to their own single spot on a crossmember then extend back to the axle and mount in 2 places EACH on the axle, one upper mount and one lower mount for each bar! so 4 total mounting spots on the axle look at the fucking picture i posted as an example for you and then compare that to your "factory ford ladder bars" and tell me they are the same thing... you cant they are not even remotely close to each other, what you have are a type of traction bar. so dont try and fancy it up.

all your welds i've seen on here look like shit. your a pathetic excuse for a fabricator and i'm done here trying to explain to you anything... and i will get out of your thread and go back to school w/ my 3.9 GPA b/c you dont know how to take some constructive criticism and wont accept anyting other than ... trucks badass man... looks sweet dude... yea it looks badass and will haul ass no doubt about it but your "fabrication" sucks..

peace.

[KansasFabricator]

WOW this has turned into a major arguement........reading both sides i still think wishiwerfishinn is right.........some of what you say doesnt even apply to the picture he posted and ya the explorer my have had a horizontal locating device on the axle stock (ie the bars you took and welded on) but they are not "ladder bars"........they do exactly what you want and thats not what is being debated ..........whats being debated is the terminology you are using im sorry but what you installed in no way resemble "ladder bars" they are more like a non-adjustable "slid-a-link".

wishiwerfishinn was wrong about being able to use ladder bars with leaf springs "if it's done right ladder bars technically can NOT be used w/ leaf springs... it can be done yes, but the spring will not function correctly"

you just need to use "sliders" or "rollers" so your axle housing can move freely on your leaf springs, other wise the competing arcs of the ladder bars and the leaf springs will cause binding.......if you run coil overs all this is avoided.........with a true ladder bar setup all leaf springs do is hold the weight of the vehicle they dont actually locate the axle laterally or horizontally.........thats what the ladder bars and panhard bar do..........so you were both right and both wrong but wishiwerfishin was more right.........so point for him..........sorry dude.............and ya metal prep is important you can grind ur weld off and paint over it but that basically destroys the structural integrity of the weld so do it right the first time and you save time and strength because if you do it right its gona look good

read the section on ladder bars and slid a links it should shed some light on this dreary debate
http://competitionplus.com/2004_10_21/chassis.html

oh and just curious whats an "E-thug poser".........he was technically more right than you

[Petro]

I used ladder bars on my lifted '79 Bronco with rearced elliptical springs and no panhard bar made by rancho. Anyways fun looking project hopefully it all holds up well for ya. Any burnout bids coming?