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Project: 84' Blazer - LQ4/4L60e Swap

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#1 ·
Project: 84' Blazer - LQ4/4L60e Swap

I'm sure many of you have seen my blazer on this forum.



It's a 1984 S10 Blazer (Tahoe) with a 2.8L/700r4 that has become very tired and is in need of an LSx Swap!

I will be purchasing a 2002 6.0L LQ4 and 4L60e from a auto wrecker in the next week or so. It comes with all front accessories, wiring harness, ECU, and plastic shrouds. Its already put to the side and awaiting pick up.

As of now this is what I plan to buy for the swap.

Parts list:
KWik - Alt and PS bracket
Kwik - A/C mount w/ sanden compressor
Stainless Works - 1-7/8 LT Headers
CPW - Radiator w/Fans, Shroud & A/C Condenser
CPW - A/C condenser and lines
CPW - Wiring Harness
Shift Works: Mechanical Speedometer Kit Tailhousing
Holley LS Valve Covers - Black
Holley - 302-1 GM LS Retro-fit Aluminum Oil Pan
Lokar - Midnight Series Shifter

I want to keep all factory gauges, which is why I have that tailhousing in my parts list. My main priority is to get the truck running and able to move under its own power by Xmas this year. Once that is done, I will work on the cosmetic touches, such as valve covers, tailhousing, lokar shifter, A/C, trans rebuild etc... As the engine has about 120,000miles I wouldn't be surprised if I rebuild down the road, but like I said, the main priority is to get it running.

I hope the Stainless Works headers fit without needing too much frame modification. Will I be the first one to try it???

Once I have the engine in I will deal with the fuel system. I'm sure I will have many questions to do with this...

So far I have only taken a bit of my front end off. I hope to have the 2.8L and everything else removed from the engine compartment by the end of the week.





I will be putting in an order with Jared at CPW tomorrow for the LT's, Rad kit, and A/C shit. I will also order the Holley pan and KWik PS and Alt bracket at the same time.

Stay tuned for progress!
 
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#4 ·
That is one fine example of a 1st gen that is clean as a whistle!!!!! I am droooooooling!
 
#8 ·
Parts Ordered:

KWik - Alt and PS bracket - ORDERED
Kwik - A/C mount w/ sanden compressor - ORDERED
Stainless Works - 1-7/8 LT Headers - ORDERED
CPW - Radiator w/Fans, Shroud & A/C Condenser - ORDERED
CPW - A/C condenser and lines - ORDERED
CPW - Wiring Harness
Shift Works: Mechanical Speedometer Kit Tailhousing
Holley LS Valve Covers - Black
Holley - 302-1 GM LS Retro-fit Aluminum Oil Pan - ORDERED
Lokar - Midnight Series Shifter

:)
 
#13 ·
Nothing much new here, I've taken it quite slowly lately because I dont have any parts yet.

I will be paying for the engine and trans this weekend and it will be delivered early next week.

I've taken the whole front clip off and am ready to start unbolting the engine and trans as most of the wiring is out of the way.









More photos to follow as I make more progress.
 
#14 ·
The engine and trans are now in my possession!!! :)

I removed the front accessories and manifolds last night. Once I get some bolts, I will mount the engine to my engine stand and then continue removing my 2.8L.

I'll post some pictures later this evening.
 
#15 ·
How it was dropped off:






I'll be running a 4.8L flexplate to avoid matting problems with the 4L60e:



After tonight, this is how it sits:

Ready to pull the 2.8L



I got some bolts to mount the 6.0L to the stand









I removed the EGR components and I'm now looking for a block off plate as I will be running the LT's. Have any of you used this one ??



Should I remove the engine oil lines running from the rear of the pan? or should I keep them??



 
#18 ·
The new pan will have the correct plate over the oil cooler holes if you don't want to use it. I don't think cpw radiator has ports for them.
 
#20 ·
Goodbye 2.8L!!









Tomorrow I'm going to degrease the entire frame and firewall to get it ready for when it comes time to drop the 6.0L in.

I may try to mock the engine up with the DIY mounts from SD before all my parts come. The only problem is that I need the headers and pan to ensure fitment... so I am at a bit of a stand still.

That's all for now...
 
#21 ·
Looking good man. Looks like you have a good jump on this project.

If you want to sell those oil cooler lines let me know!
 
#22 ·
I think jtjasper2002 uses the oil cooler lines. He might have pics of them and how they are installed if you want to try to use them.
 
#25 ·
wish you weren't a ferry ride away. Hell, id drive to Vancouver to help out. Keep it up!
 
#26 ·
Yea that's too bad any help would be great!

Could someone post a few pictures of their CPW engine mounts with a tape measure beside it. I have suicidedoors DIY kit and I would like a general idea of how long the tabs should be and where they should be welded on the mounting plate.

Thanks!
 
#27 ·
I haven't really made much progress, as I'm waiting on the parts to arrive. I do have a few questions though....

1. How much do I have to notch my crossmember when using the Holley Retrofit pan??
2. What do you guys do with the brake lines once you've notched it?
3. Do you Blazer guys have to mod the crossmember? or can I leave mine stock in the stock location??



I tried out my stock driveshaft in the new 4L60e and the splines match up!! If I can I will use my drive shaft as a guide to where the engine will actually sit. This will save me from having to shorten it. This all depends on clearances in the engine bay.
 
#28 ·
The holley pan I don't think you have to do anything for unless YOU want more room. I moved my brake line to the top of the cross member. I didn't mod my cross member but some do to tip engine down more without pan hitting it. I have a 2nd gen so I don't even know if anything applies to yours, lol.
 
#29 ·
Yea, I wish someone else had documented a blazer build with these components!! Nothing seems to be the same with these trucks...

Can anyone tell me what this tube is that runs from one head to the other? Is is a steam vent??



I took the coils off tonight and began cleaning up the engine. What do you recommend to clean the flaking paint off the cast block??



The valve covers were super oxidized when I got them. They turned out okay so far, still lots of work to go with the scotchbrite pad...

 
#32 ·
I've done some reading on it and don't really understand why people are rerouting it to the upper rad hose... Can I not just keep it how it is??

I will be running the stock TB for now. Is this mod only for people running aftermarket TB's, or is there a benefit to it??
 
#33 ·
I had the same thing with my lq4. I just used a wire brush and a wire wheel on a drill to knock off the heavy stuff. Then I used paint striper and and wire wheeled again. It all came off really well. Oh in the corners of the webing I used a dremel with a sanding cone to get the hard spots. Then used vht engine primer(3 coats) then I used vht Chevy orange engine paint (3 coats) and then vht engine clear coat ,3 coats.

 
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