Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 !

v8power · 07-01-2008, 12:45 AM

The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose).

generics10 · 07-01-2008, 12:52 AM

yeah, it does suck. still looking for an easy solution....

s10-den · 07-01-2008, 08:01 AM

Oh chit, thats a good catch v8!That could be a problam

andrew69_04 · 07-01-2008, 08:37 AM

It's the same way with a T56 too. I had to jack up my cab to get my tranny out. if you split the tranny and bellhousing with the 6 speed it can be done without lifting the cab. An automatic would be more of a headache

Jonce007 · 07-01-2008, 09:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose).

Good catch, although it doesn't suprise me. Speaking of H3 oil pans, what oil filters are you guys running? I was at the auto parts store last night and they only had listings for 2007 Hummers, not the 2008 H3's...

Christobevii3 · 07-01-2008, 09:25 AM

Ls2 pan will let you...Just slap the crossmember a little with a sledge hammer to "smooth" it down a little.

jnoehl · 07-01-2008, 09:37 AM

i just tore mine down, and ran into a similar problem, with the t56, transmission came off, i just had to unbolt it from the block then rotate it about 90* so that the top of the bell housing would clear the cab

definitely all going back in as one piece, using a QTP lift plate that bolts in place of the valley cover.

andrew69_04 · 07-01-2008, 09:59 AM

i believe the filter number im running is a mobil 1 filter. PN: M1-113

myth · 07-01-2008, 10:58 AM

I have a H3 pan on a 5.3. When I put the motor in I made the slots on the motor mounts 3/8 of an inch longer to move the motor back that much more. I have had the tranmission out a couple of times with no problems. All I did was role the lip under on the cab before the motr went in.

horsepwraddict · 07-01-2008, 04:02 PM

I have to do this with a stock 5.3 truck pan anyway. Its not just the H3 pan.

Tim99Zr2 · 07-01-2008, 04:03 PM

thats why you do like i did.. a SAS, then you have no cross members under youe motor.

i can have my oil pan off in 10 min

Big96Zr2 · 07-01-2008, 07:29 PM

haha, ya that what I did....actually the SAS was first, so putting the V8 in was a breeze.

98LSSOMO · 07-02-2008, 01:21 AM

Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"?

So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem?

Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that?

icon · 07-02-2008, 09:56 AM

im thinking if i wait long enough jared will make one.

Big96Zr2 · 07-02-2008, 06:04 PM

SAS=Solid Axle Swap got rid of the crappy 4x4 IFS with a MUCH stronger Dana 60 front axle...well, thats what I did. V8+42s+IFS=BOOOOOOOM

myth · 07-02-2008, 06:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 98LSSOMO

Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"?

So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem?

Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that?

I had to slot the mounts 3/8 so that the oil pan would clear the cross member. But I had NO trouble getting the transmission out.

10sec96 · 07-02-2008, 07:40 PM

I put my tranny in with the motor already installed without any problems. I do have the seam bent up on mine though.

Jamie

Hazmatt81 · 07-02-2008, 10:25 PM

I would also like to add to this.

On my 97 'noma with 2wd ext cab. 5.3/4l60E. I am too running the Hummer Pan and so far other than lifting the cab to get the engine in. I noticed that the brake line that runs across the backside of the crossmember is not being pinched but the bots that hold the mounting bracket for the brakeline are touching the oil pan and need to be removed and the line to be relocated either up or down. just a note

v8power · 07-02-2008, 11:19 PM

I just pull the brake lines to route behind the oil pan

myth · 07-03-2008, 09:17 AM

I had to move the brake lines aswell. It looks like I will have the chance to practice pulling the transmission out again. Stupid torque converter wont lock up.

Hazmatt81 · 07-03-2008, 02:59 PM

just a thought. And i know that we all pretty much bought the hummer pan to avoid notching the frame. But What if we notched the frame foward about an 1" to 1.5" around the front of the pan, that way we are able to use the slotted holes to move the engine foward for more room we we shell out a transmission.

What do you guys think.

baggedzq8 · 07-03-2008, 05:55 PM

1) can you take the tranny crossmember off and let the motor rotate down? or is this already done when trying to get the top tranny bolts loose?

2) could you not cut an access hole in the cab and just pull the carpet back for the few times you need to service the tranny outside the truck?

born2fly · 07-03-2008, 07:35 PM

I've got to wait another week to drive the beast!

***CPWire*** · 07-03-2008, 07:57 PM

Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"?
Our new mounts are ready to go.

s10-den · 07-03-2008, 08:06 PM

If you use the h3 pan,you still wont be able to tilt the motor back without the oilpan hitting the crossmember if you didnt notch it.

RazorS10 · 07-04-2008, 12:13 PM

I think it would be easier just to take the motor and trans out together just like it goes in together.

RazorS10 · 07-04-2008, 12:14 PM

Like the age old saying in the automotive field do the job once do it right the first time.

v8power · 07-04-2008, 01:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"?
Our new mounts are ready to go.

Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2".

***CPWire*** · 07-04-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2".

So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good?

v8power · 07-04-2008, 03:03 PM

yep. If I'm going to bust the pan, I want to tear the fucker offf !!!!

***CPWire*** · 07-04-2008, 03:41 PM

Weld something to the bottom of the crossmember that is 1/2" thick

v8power · 07-04-2008, 04:07 PM

Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though.

poconojoe · 07-04-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good?

If you only had something hanging down less then a half of an inch, I don't think you'd be careful about not hitting anything. Where on the other hand you had something hang down an inch and a half, I think you'd be very careful. So yes, less could be worst. Plus I think he was also looking at the cost differance between the 2 pans

***CPWire*** · 07-04-2008, 05:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though.

Redneck...

v8power · 07-05-2008, 12:30 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

Redneck...

(Jared)

v8power · 07-05-2008, 12:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

(Jared)

***CPWire*** · 07-05-2008, 12:39 AM

back atcha

v8power · 07-05-2008, 12:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by poconojoe

If you only had something hanging down less then a half of an inch, I don't think you'd be careful about not hitting anything. Where on the other hand you had something hang down an inch and a half, I think you'd be very careful. So yes, less could be worst. Plus I think he was also looking at the cost differance between the 2 pans

Cost really isn't an issue. I will have just as much in labor cost notching the crossmember as buying the H3 pan . I'm just thinking of the labor cost involved in removing the transmission with an H3 pan and no notch. It would take on average, 2hrs to remove the front fenders,hood,bumper and grill safely without damage and then 3 hrs. to re-install it. Thats a 5 hr difference between having a H3 pan and no notch . YOU CAN STILL NOTCH THE CROSSMEMBER AND USE THE H3 PAN ! if your worried about the truck pan. I just think it needs to be notched regardless on what pan you use. You will have 2 hrs labor in notching up front vs. 5 hrs down the road and taking a chance on damaging the paint by removing the front clip .

v8power · 07-05-2008, 12:54 AM

How do you like my fireworks !

poconojoe · 07-05-2008, 07:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Cost really isn't an issue. I will have just as much in labor cost notching the crossmember as buying the H3 pan . I'm just thinking of the labor cost involved in removing the transmission with an H3 pan and no notch. It would take on average, 2hrs to remove the front fenders,hood,bumper and grill safely without damage and then 3 hrs. to re-install it. Thats a 5 hr difference between having a H3 pan and no notch . YOU CAN STILL NOTCH THE CROSSMEMBER AND USE THE H3 PAN ! if your worried about the truck pan. I just think it needs to be notched regardless on what pan you use. You will have 2 hrs labor in notching up front vs. 5 hrs down the road and taking a chance on damaging the paint by removing the front clip .

Is the notch about the same size, no mater which pan you plan on installing? Is there any pictures on the forum of how big the notch has to be? I did look but didn't see any. Would you bother to use the H3 pan, if you had no intent of lowering the truck?

born2fly · 07-05-2008, 06:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Cost really isn't an issue. I will have just as much in labor cost notching the crossmember as buying the H3 pan . I'm just thinking of the labor cost involved in removing the transmission with an H3 pan and no notch. It would take on average, 2hrs to remove the front fenders,hood,bumper and grill safely without damage and then 3 hrs. to re-install it. Thats a 5 hr difference between having a H3 pan and no notch . YOU CAN STILL NOTCH THE CROSSMEMBER AND USE THE H3 PAN ! if your worried about the truck pan. I just think it needs to be notched regardless on what pan you use. You will have 2 hrs labor in notching up front vs. 5 hrs down the road and taking a chance on damaging the paint by removing the front clip .

NOOO SHITTTT!

v8power · 07-05-2008, 07:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by born2fly

NOOO SHITTTT!

98LSSOMO · 07-07-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"?
Our new mounts are ready to go.

Is this incorporated in the new mounts?

myth · 07-07-2008, 10:29 PM

I just pulled the transmission out of mine again today. It took an hour and a half from start to finish. I dont know what yall are doing wrong. Maybe you should buy the right tools for the job.

V8Blaze · 07-07-2008, 10:51 PM

lol im sure v8power "has the right tool"

myth · 07-08-2008, 12:58 AM

If he does. Then why is it so hard for him to get the job done?

***CPWire*** · 07-08-2008, 09:19 AM

Wow...

I admit it is definitely a tight area, but It isn't a show stopper.

myth · 07-08-2008, 10:30 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

Wow...

I admit it is definitely a tight area, but It isn't a show stopper.

I agree. The hardest bolt to get out on mine is the top. And its not rocket science.

horsepwraddict · 07-08-2008, 03:51 PM

not trying to be a dick, but you do realize all trucks are different right? Just because your truck might be easy doesn't mean someone elses isn't. I have my motor all the way back.....you cant get to some of the bellhousing bolts, plane and simple. I have to put my motor/trans in together.

myth · 07-08-2008, 05:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by horsepwraddict

not trying to be a dick, but you do realize all trucks are different right? Just because your truck might be easy doesn't mean someone elses isn't. I have my motor all the way back.....you cant get to some of the bellhousing bolts, plane and simple. I have to put my motor/trans in together.

Yes I do realize that ALL vehicles are different. Hell I realize it everyday, when I go to work. If he is such a great builder/mechanic, why does he take the fenders off. Why not just loosen or remove the 6 cab mounts and raise the cab a few inches?

07-01-2008, 12:45 AM	#1
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose). Last edited by v8power : 07-01-2008 at 12:46 AM.
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07-01-2008, 12:52 AM	#2
generics10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 248 Location: columbia city, indiana User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! yeah, it does suck. still looking for an easy solution....
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07-01-2008, 08:01 AM	#3
s10-den takes 2 balls in our game Age: 37 Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 4,416 Location: florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Oh chit, thats a good catch v8!That could be a problam
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07-01-2008, 08:37 AM	#4
andrew69_04 ls1 junkie Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 292 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! It's the same way with a T56 too. I had to jack up my cab to get my tranny out. if you split the tranny and bellhousing with the 6 speed it can be done without lifting the cab. An automatic would be more of a headache
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07-01-2008, 09:01 AM	#5
Jonce007 Registered User Age: 32 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 298 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by v8power The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose). Good catch, although it doesn't suprise me. Speaking of H3 oil pans, what oil filters are you guys running? I was at the auto parts store last night and they only had listings for 2007 Hummers, not the 2008 H3's...
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07-01-2008, 09:25 AM	#6
Christobevii3 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 500 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Ls2 pan will let you...Just slap the crossmember a little with a sledge hammer to "smooth" it down a little.
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07-01-2008, 09:37 AM	#7
jnoehl Registered User Age: 22 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 365 Location: New Orleans, La User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! i just tore mine down, and ran into a similar problem, with the t56, transmission came off, i just had to unbolt it from the block then rotate it about 90* so that the top of the bell housing would clear the cab definitely all going back in as one piece, using a QTP lift plate that bolts in place of the valley cover.
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07-01-2008, 09:59 AM	#8
andrew69_04 ls1 junkie Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 292 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! i believe the filter number im running is a mobil 1 filter. PN: M1-113
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07-01-2008, 10:58 AM	#9
myth Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I have a H3 pan on a 5.3. When I put the motor in I made the slots on the motor mounts 3/8 of an inch longer to move the motor back that much more. I have had the tranmission out a couple of times with no problems. All I did was role the lip under on the cab before the motr went in.
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07-01-2008, 04:02 PM	#10
horsepwraddict s10 newb Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 671 Location: Princeton MA User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I have to do this with a stock 5.3 truck pan anyway. Its not just the H3 pan.
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07-01-2008, 04:03 PM	#11
Tim99Zr2 Fvck New Jersey Age: 21 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 7,535 Location: Reynoldsville, PA User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! thats why you do like i did.. a SAS, then you have no cross members under youe motor. i can have my oil pan off in 10 min
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07-01-2008, 07:29 PM	#12
Big96Zr2 Registered User Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 126 Location: Jacksonville, FL User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! haha, ya that what I did....actually the SAS was first, so putting the V8 in was a breeze.
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07-02-2008, 01:21 AM	#13
98LSSOMO Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 80 Location: Orlando, FL User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"? So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem? Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that?
	[Reply w/Quote]

07-02-2008, 09:56 AM	#14
icon Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 444 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! im thinking if i wait long enough jared will make one.
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07-02-2008, 06:04 PM	#15
Big96Zr2 Registered User Age: 29 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 126 Location: Jacksonville, FL User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! SAS=Solid Axle Swap got rid of the crappy 4x4 IFS with a MUCH stronger Dana 60 front axle...well, thats what I did. V8+42s+IFS=BOOOOOOOM
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07-02-2008, 06:21 PM	#16
myth Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by 98LSSOMO Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"? So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem? Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that? I had to slot the mounts 3/8 so that the oil pan would clear the cross member. But I had NO trouble getting the transmission out.
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07-02-2008, 07:40 PM	#17
10sec96 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 33 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I put my tranny in with the motor already installed without any problems. I do have the seam bent up on mine though. Jamie
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07-02-2008, 10:25 PM	#18
Hazmatt81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 33 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I would also like to add to this. On my 97 'noma with 2wd ext cab. 5.3/4l60E. I am too running the Hummer Pan and so far other than lifting the cab to get the engine in. I noticed that the brake line that runs across the backside of the crossmember is not being pinched but the bots that hold the mounting bracket for the brakeline are touching the oil pan and need to be removed and the line to be relocated either up or down. just a note
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07-02-2008, 11:19 PM	#19
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I just pull the brake lines to route behind the oil pan
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07-03-2008, 09:17 AM	#20
myth Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 22 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I had to move the brake lines aswell. It looks like I will have the chance to practice pulling the transmission out again. Stupid torque converter wont lock up.
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07-03-2008, 02:59 PM	#21
Hazmatt81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 33 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! just a thought. And i know that we all pretty much bought the hummer pan to avoid notching the frame. But What if we notched the frame foward about an 1" to 1.5" around the front of the pan, that way we are able to use the slotted holes to move the engine foward for more room we we shell out a transmission. What do you guys think.
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07-03-2008, 05:55 PM	#22
baggedzq8 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 778 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! 1) can you take the tranny crossmember off and let the motor rotate down? or is this already done when trying to get the top tranny bolts loose? 2) could you not cut an access hole in the cab and just pull the carpet back for the few times you need to service the tranny outside the truck?
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07-03-2008, 07:35 PM	#23
born2fly Registered User Age: 35 Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 37 Location: Ft. Bragg, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I've got to wait another week to drive the beast!
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07-03-2008, 07:57 PM	#24
*CPWire* Makin Sparks Age: 31 Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,206 Location: Hudson, Florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"? Our new mounts are ready to go.
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07-03-2008, 08:06 PM	#25
s10-den takes 2 balls in our game Age: 37 Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 4,416 Location: florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! If you use the h3 pan,you still wont be able to tilt the motor back without the oilpan hitting the crossmember if you didnt notch it.
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07-04-2008, 12:13 PM	#26
RazorS10 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 406 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! I think it would be easier just to take the motor and trans out together just like it goes in together.
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07-04-2008, 12:14 PM	#27
RazorS10 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 406 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Like the age old saying in the automotive field do the job once do it right the first time.
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07-04-2008, 01:23 PM	#28
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350 Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"? Our new mounts are ready to go. Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2".
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07-04-2008, 02:33 PM	#29
*CPWire* Makin Sparks Age: 31 Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,206 Location: Hudson, Florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by v8power Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2". So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good?
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07-04-2008, 03:03 PM	#30
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! yep. If I'm going to bust the pan, I want to tear the fucker offf !!!!
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07-04-2008, 03:41 PM	#31
*CPWire* Makin Sparks Age: 31 Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,206 Location: Hudson, Florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Weld something to the bottom of the crossmember that is 1/2" thick
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07-04-2008, 04:07 PM	#32
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though.
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07-04-2008, 05:01 PM	#33
poconojoe Registered User Age: 56 Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 6,403 Location: NEPA User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350 So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good? If you only had something hanging down less then a half of an inch, I don't think you'd be careful about not hitting anything. Where on the other hand you had something hang down an inch and a half, I think you'd be very careful. So yes, less could be worst. Plus I think he was also looking at the cost differance between the 2 pans
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07-04-2008, 05:42 PM	#34
*CPWire* Makin Sparks Age: 31 Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,206 Location: Hudson, Florida User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by v8power Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though. Redneck...
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07-05-2008, 12:30 AM	#35
v8power Toy Fabricator Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 573 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 ! Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350 Redneck... (Jared) Last edited by v8power : 07-05-2008 at 12:34 AM.
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