Found a major flaw in the h3 oil pan in a S10 !

[v8power]

The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose).

[generics10]

yeah, it does suck. still looking for an easy solution....

[s10-den]

Oh chit, thats a good catch v8!That could be a problam

[andrew69_04]

It's the same way with a T56 too. I had to jack up my cab to get my tranny out. if you split the tranny and bellhousing with the 6 speed it can be done without lifting the cab. An automatic would be more of a headache

[Jonce007]

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

The automatic transmission can't be removed with out raising the cab. Since the pan is so close to the crossmsmber, the transmission can't be tilted to get the top bolt loose or slide the bellhousing back enough to clear the flywheel without hitting the firewall. In order to raise the cab, the front fenders/hood have to come off (as well as the grill and bumper to get the fender bolts loose).

Good catch, although it doesn't suprise me. Speaking of H3 oil pans, what oil filters are you guys running? I was at the auto parts store last night and they only had listings for 2007 Hummers, not the 2008 H3's...

[Christobevii3]

Ls2 pan will let you...Just slap the crossmember a little with a sledge hammer to "smooth" it down a little.

[jnoehl]

i just tore mine down, and ran into a similar problem, with the t56, transmission came off, i just had to unbolt it from the block then rotate it about 90* so that the top of the bell housing would clear the cab

definitely all going back in as one piece, using a QTP lift plate that bolts in place of the valley cover.

[andrew69_04]

i believe the filter number im running is a mobil 1 filter. PN: M1-113

[myth]

I have a H3 pan on a 5.3. When I put the motor in I made the slots on the motor mounts 3/8 of an inch longer to move the motor back that much more. I have had the tranmission out a couple of times with no problems. All I did was role the lip under on the cab before the motr went in.

[horsepwraddict]

I have to do this with a stock 5.3 truck pan anyway. Its not just the H3 pan.

[Tim99Zr2]

thats why you do like i did.. a SAS, then you have no cross members under youe motor. i can have my oil pan off in 10 min

[Big96Zr2]

haha, ya that what I did....actually the SAS was first, so putting the V8 in was a breeze.

[98LSSOMO]

Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"?

So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem?

Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that?

[icon]

im thinking if i wait long enough jared will make one.

[Big96Zr2]

SAS=Solid Axle Swap got rid of the crappy 4x4 IFS with a MUCH stronger Dana 60 front axle...well, thats what I did. V8+42s+IFS=BOOOOOOOM

[myth]

Quote: Originally Posted by 98LSSOMO

Hope I dont sound stupid asking, but what is "SAS"?

So, if I understand this correctly, the H3 pan clears the x-member with no mods but you have trouble removing the tranny. If you slot the mounts 3/8", that's enough to solve that problem?

Is slotting the mounts 3/8" enough for the truck pan to fit w/o x-member mods? Based on the Oil Pan sticky, it looks like the truck pan sump is about 1.25" to 1.5" longer. Seems like the 3/8" slot and a minor cut in the x-member would provide the clearance. Anyone tried that?

I had to slot the mounts 3/8 so that the oil pan would clear the cross member. But I had NO trouble getting the transmission out.

[10sec96]

I put my tranny in with the motor already installed without any problems. I do have the seam bent up on mine though.

Jamie

[Hazmatt81]

I would also like to add to this.

On my 97 'noma with 2wd ext cab. 5.3/4l60E. I am too running the Hummer Pan and so far other than lifting the cab to get the engine in. I noticed that the brake line that runs across the backside of the crossmember is not being pinched but the bots that hold the mounting bracket for the brakeline are touching the oil pan and need to be removed and the line to be relocated either up or down. just a note

[v8power]

I just pull the brake lines to route behind the oil pan

[myth]

I had to move the brake lines aswell. It looks like I will have the chance to practice pulling the transmission out again. Stupid torque converter wont lock up.

[Hazmatt81]

just a thought. And i know that we all pretty much bought the hummer pan to avoid notching the frame. But What if we notched the frame foward about an 1" to 1.5" around the front of the pan, that way we are able to use the slotted holes to move the engine foward for more room we we shell out a transmission.

What do you guys think.

[baggedzq8]

1) can you take the tranny crossmember off and let the motor rotate down? or is this already done when trying to get the top tranny bolts loose?

2) could you not cut an access hole in the cab and just pull the carpet back for the few times you need to service the tranny outside the truck?

[born2fly]

I've got to wait another week to drive the beast!

[97 SS 350]

Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"?
Our new mounts are ready to go.

[s10-den]

If you use the h3 pan,you still wont be able to tilt the motor back without the oilpan hitting the crossmember if you didnt notch it.

[RazorS10]

I think it would be easier just to take the motor and trans out together just like it goes in together.

[RazorS10]

Like the age old saying in the automotive field do the job once do it right the first time.

[v8power]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

Question... What if the engine mounts lowered the engine about 3/8"?
Our new mounts are ready to go.

Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2".

[97 SS 350]

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Then the pan would be 3/8 below the crossmember. I may just start notching the crossmembers again and use the cheaper truck pans. It would make everything easier down the road for the customer. We all know that the trans will eventually come out to be rebuilt or change converters. The seviceability means more to me then notching the crossmember and the pan hanging down an 1 1/2".

So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good?

[v8power]

yep. If I'm going to bust the pan, I want to tear the fucker offf !!!!

[97 SS 350]

Weld something to the bottom of the crossmember that is 1/2" thick

[v8power]

Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though.

[poconojoe]

Quote: Originally Posted by 97 SS 350

So the pan hanging down 3/8" below the crossmember is bad, but 1-1/2" is good?

If you only had something hanging down less then a half of an inch, I don't think you'd be careful about not hitting anything. Where on the other hand you had something hang down an inch and a half, I think you'd be very careful. So yes, less could be worst. Plus I think he was also looking at the cost differance between the 2 pans

[97 SS 350]

Quote: Originally Posted by v8power

Why not weld something 1 1/2"? I've never had any problem with the truck oil pan. I would'nt suggest lowering it alot though.

Redneck...