Driveshaft Issue

[404super10]

I recently destroyed the driveshaft in my truck. Here's what i had: Extended cab 01 S10 w/ 4 inch aluminium driveshaft. i removed the two peice driveshaft and replaced it with this one. However i was at the dyno and the u-joint let go. some driveshaft companies are telling me it is ok to run the single, but others are saying that the only way to do it is to keep the two piece. Unfortunately it broke on the first pull but it made amost 450ft lbs of torque, Im hoping to get more out of it with the final tune. My question is all you guys running a lsx motor in extended cab s10's, What kind of drive shafts are you using? the issue seems to be the high reving lsx motor making the driveshaft spin faster than 5k rpms and with the shaft being longer than 58 in (69 to be exact) they tend to come apart. Just was woundering Thanks!

[Petro]

Here's a piece of reading material I bookmarked awhile back...I am wanting a one piece myself...But Denny's build good ones...
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c10_...iveshafts.html

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/52718_dr...ion/index.html

[CODE4LS1]

I am using a replacement 2 piece driveshaft that was made long before the LSX swap. Only 3 u-joints, nice and simple.

[404super10]

the Denny's draveshaft was the one i was looking at... Thanks! I will just go with that one...

[Petro]

Let us know how that one works out...

[ethang1977]

I trashed my driveshaft(and gas tank) on the dyno last week. Guess it finds the weakest link

[mknight759]

Quote: Originally Posted by ethang1977

I trashed my driveshaft(and gas tank) on the dyno last week. Guess it finds the weakest link

ha ha mine did the same last friday but it got the tank ,exhaust and busted the tailhousing on the trans then trans quit yesterday so it got it to it was under full load at over 100 when it came apart

[MidwestDriveshaft]

Quote: Originally Posted by 404super10

...... However i was at the dyno and the u-joint let go. some driveshaft companies are telling me it is ok to run the single, but others are saying that the only way to do it is to keep the two piece. ....

Was it a greasable or solid joint? Was it a Spicer?

[biggee72]

What difference does it make if it was spicer or not? There's plenty of other great joints out there..

[zx9rgreen]

Wow I guess I totally missed this thread.....I had no idea this many people at the same time were having driveshaft problems. Im running my stock 2pc shaft that was shortened and balanced with spicer joints. the engine RPM has nothing to do with the DS rpm, But have had my truck past 140mph with no problems (yet). The drive shaft has been in the truck for over 2 years.

[mknight759]

Well it cost me 410$ for driveshaft 50$ to fix exhaust 350$ to fix trans & looks like a WW1 battleship underneath from it banging around when it came loose. But now mine is a standard cab and I think it was not properly shortened was my culpret.

[Barry]

OP: Alot of guys are using the driveshaft out of a newer model Sliverado 2500 extended cab for your application. Its aluiminum and 5" I believe. May have to be cut down though.

[zx9rgreen]

Quote: Originally Posted by Petro

Here's a piece of reading material I bookmarked awhile back...I am wanting a one piece myself...But Denny's build good ones...
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c10_...iveshafts.html

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/52718_dr...ion/index.html

Petro have you spoken to Dennys about their 2-piece DS? It not clear on their site that its capable for higher HP applications. The way it's worded to me is that it is more like a replacement type deal.

Steve

[Petro]

I haven't spoken to them as of yet...I originally wanted a 1 piece shaft for the simpilcity of it , less rotating mass , and less flex it would have. But after reading about driveshaft setups a few months back I may stick with a 2 piece. But I still want eliminate my double cardan rear shaft. ( Garbage!) I was browsing their site for chrome moly pinion yokes and ran across the "Haulin S10" ad. Did you scroll down and a lil bit and see the ad? I have to call them anyways about the pinion yoke so I'll ask them about their piece shaft while I'm at it.

[zx9rgreen]

Quote: Originally Posted by Petro

I haven't spoken to them as of yet...I originally wanted a 1 piece shaft for the simpilcity of it , less rotating mass , and less flex it would have. But after reading about driveshaft setups a few months back I may stick with a 2 piece. But I still want eliminate my double cardan rear shaft. ( Garbage!) I was browsing their site for chrome moly pinion yokes and ran across the "Haulin S10" ad. Did you scroll down and a lil bit and see the ad? I have to call them anyways about the pinion yoke so I'll ask them about their piece shaft while I'm at it.

Cool I'd like to keep the 2piece too if they can build a strong setup. Keep me in the loop about it.

[97ls1s10]

i got my drive shaft from a 97 hombre ext. cab and it doesnt have the double joints and it a 3inch steel shaft......and you cant cut down the 5inch alum. tubes because the have a torque tube inside

[Petro]

Well I called Denny's today and they said they can easily build a 2 piece shaft with any type u-joint selection , material , application , etc....depending on lots of factors a round about price start at something like $700...I asked about the "Haulin S10" but didn't get much of a response.


Not all 5in aluminum tubes have the torque tube...But the 5 in tube isn't the best choice because of Cab Clearance...It hits toward the rear of cab and it will need to be sectioned....

[CODE4LS1]

$700 seems a bit steep to me but I don't know much about them other than I had a 2 peice driveshaft made for less than $450 w/3 u joints and new carrier bearing. Is that price quote for aluminum?

[Petro]

I would say steel shaft with regular 3R yokes/joints for the $700 price..He also said their shafts won't break...

[CODE4LS1]

Should hold up just fine then....