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2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

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Old 02-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #1
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2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

I started off just wanting a cheap and easy build. My truck is more of a fun truck/ puddle jumper so its more of a daily driver than a show truck and it will probably only see a track once or twice a year.

I picked up the 2001 Xtreme from a guy who, i believe, never knew how to even change the oil.. It was in poor shape but for the price of $2500 it was just fine for me. (Some pics were bad due to a camera problem on my phone)



I tried to find an LQ9 for quite a while but was unsuccessful so i decided to go with a low mileage 5.3l. Engine was a complete drop out with wiring harness and gauges for $900



Stripped down


I purchased parts from various locations and included:
shorty headers (s10v8.com)
LS1 conversion oil pan (s10v8.com)
Motor Mounts (s10v8.com)
TSP224R cam
Hardened Pushrods
PAC Springs (all from TSP)
Lifters
LS2 Timing Chain Kit
Harmonic Balancer
Melling LS6 Oil Pump
Rebuild Gasket Set (Autozone)
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers (Summit)

Spring Comparison

Cams side by side


Shes headless with cam installed


Pistons still looked good along with the cylinder walls.


Excessive, i know..


Timing chain and corvette oil pump installed


Back together


Painted Timing Cover and Valve Covers



I hate the color red but i think it will look good with the black and silver.

That is the progress so far. I am still cleaning up the engine, drilling out some header bolts the broke off, and getting it put together to go into the s10.

I plan on finding a t56 since my s10 is an auto but at this point i just what the engine in and running.

Thanks for looking, ill post more as i go. Feel free to leave questions or suggestions.
Old 02-28-2013, 06:23 PM   #2
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

this is a sweet build man!! pretty much same as mine to a T. What else are your plans in terms of drivetrain?
also ive noticed this alot but my 5.3 is out of an 05 avalanche and it didnt have those crosses on the heads of the pistons. is there a difference?
i have the same hood too! Lol
Old 02-28-2013, 10:35 PM   #3
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Motor looks good, I like them rockers!
Old 03-01-2013, 08:31 AM   #4
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Catrell92
also ive noticed this alot but my 5.3 is out of an 05 avalanche and it didnt have those crosses on the heads of the pistons. is there a difference?
yea, they are flat tops...its probably a 4.8. looks great so far
Old 03-01-2013, 10:24 AM   #5
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Looks good so far man!!

I'd be careful on those rockers they are known to break where the PR seats, there are many threads on ls1tech of the snapping. Personally I think you should just use stockers with a trunnion upgrade, your cam is small enough so stock rockers aren't a problem.
Old 03-01-2013, 10:51 AM   #6
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

I don't think that's a 4.8. Those pistons are definitely dished, the flat tops looks like this...



I think it's just a different batch of pistons all together, I've seen some 5.3 pistons with the cross mark and some without.

Build looks pretty good so far, I'm looking at the same cam for my 5.3.
Old 03-01-2013, 12:20 PM   #7
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

yes they do looked dished, my bad. mustve been too early when I first looked at them lol.
Old 03-01-2013, 02:26 PM   #8
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

On the rockers, i know they are excessive and i didnt want to go COMP but when i pulled out the old pushrods, the factory tightened them incorrectly (fairly common) and it ruined the seats on a few were not rounded and I wasnt able to find them individually. Instead of spending the money on a whole new set of stockers, i opted for the rollers for another $100 more than the stock. I have heard they can snap but with my lift and cam not being too extreme, im honestly not overly worried about it. I had to grind on one to get it to clear the head and i must say it is some very strong aluminum. It scraped the head and the rocker aluminum was harder.

As for the pistons, i have seen them with the crosses and without. The 5.3 is like the old SBC 350 and they seem to come randomly. This is a 5.3 out of a 2004 Tahoe. My only options were the 5.3 or the 6.0 because i have a lifted Silverado and if i ever sell the s10 im taking this engine and putting it in my baby and the s10 can get my stock engine.

Eventually (probably next year) im going to build the lower end to a 4" stroke bored to 3.905, and ported/ polished heads; possibly larger valves.
Old 03-01-2013, 02:47 PM   #9
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Here are some more pictures of the progress today. I have the intake manifold ready to be painted as soon at it warms up a little (still 34 degrees in my garage).

Put red painted parts on and re painted the block black. I did not even try to smooth the valve covers, they look like they were some crappy cast aluminum and they will be covered by the coil packs anyways.


New windage tray and pick up tube that came with the conversion oil pan from s10v8.com


Installed oil pan. I am not sure but the block wasnt drilled for one of the bolts for the oil pan on the original and this one. I thought about drilling and tapping it but figured there was probably a reason so it so i left it be.

The blue tape are to cover the ports so i could drill and tap the header bolts that snapped off.

Headers put on with some bolts i picked up at the hardware store. I didnt want to use the aluminum bolts that came with the headers or the crappy steel ones that came off of it so i opted for zink coated and hardened metric bolts.



And here are the reasons for the new rockers...

They are all not even the same height.. crappy factory junk..


I plan on getting the intake together within the next couple days and probably painting the accessories to hopefully start putting this thing in the truck by next weekend or the one after. I am only home on the weekends due to work.
Old 03-01-2013, 02:49 PM   #10
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

I couldnt get a picture of the inside of the rockers but they were mashed to match these rods so as you could imagine there was no uniformity. With new molly hardened rods i didnt want to mess with the already mashed in stock rockers.
Old 03-01-2013, 04:06 PM   #11
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Looks good! My pan had an extra hole, too.

I've got a set of harlands on my SBC, and they are over 15 years old... And I run a .600 lift solid roller without issue. This is the first I've ever seen anyone say that a harland broke. Of course it's the first I've seen stock pushrods look like that, too, that were not abused or worn out.

I'm thinking the Harlands broke due to bad valve geometry, and not so much quality. running a huge cam with bad geometry will do all kinds of bad stuff to good products.
Old 03-01-2013, 04:45 PM   #12
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Ive heard of comps breaking on the LS engines and is why i decided against comp Golds. Someone told me it was over tightening but i can see how that would be an issue on a LS engine because you tighten them down on to the spacer unlike a SBC where they float. I HAVE seen people install the non self aligning without the guide plates and they tend to wonder off the valve and snap in the center.

I havent ever heard of a set of harlands breaking but ill beat on it and see what happens.. I chose harlands because they seem to be the leader in roller rocker engineering and quality.. Same reason i went with PAC springs over Comps. I like COMP camshafts but thats about it; the rest of their parts seem to be lacking the same quality and reliability. I dont want to rip apart my engine every year and replace parts.. As you can see the previous owner of this engine probably used pennzoil, never changed the oil, or mixed weights.. Everything had sludge build up and is why i decided to replace the lifters.

I have rebuilt quite a few 5.3 and 6.0 and they all have similar issues; not sure why other than factory issues. Stock lifters are good for about 100k before they start to tick.. If youve ever seen them put together an engine in the factory youd see why they have so many issues. You or I use torque specs, quality gaskets, and take out time.. The factory uses air tools and zips these things together in no time and thats what causes these issues. If i order pushrods they are all the exact same length; factory are made in bulk and almost never the same. This ensures your 5.3l will be in a GM mechanics shop within 150k (for most consumers) and why their warranty doesnt cover past 75k.
Old 03-02-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Finally got the intake painted and everything put back on it.




I didnt clean up the fuel rails or the coil packs because i will be changing them later on with MSD coil packs and the valve covers that eliminate the mounting bracket. The fuel rails will be switched out when i upgrade the injectors later on.
Old 03-02-2013, 09:13 PM   #14
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Catrell92
this is a sweet build man!! pretty much same as mine to a T. What else are your plans in terms of drivetrain?
As for now im just getting it in and running so i have more room in my garage for the tranny and rear end.

Im still looking for a t56 and im having a custom built drive shaft. I am undecided on the rear end.. Just took the 8.5" out of my silverado to put in a 14 bolt FF and was going to use it but it was a 6 lug and to convert it to a 5 would cost more than i cared to spend. Mow im thinking a built blazer rear or a ford.
Old 03-11-2013, 02:09 PM   #15
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Here's an update.. engine painted and ready to go in :


S10 getting ready for her new heart and soul:


Almost go the 4.3 out:


Luckily i had help..


Engine is out, now to start the painful process of cramming 5lbs of stuff in a 2lb sack.


Mounts are in, starting to move wires for the new harness.


Test fit engine to see what is needed to clear everything.


Engine is mostly wired up, but im done for the weekend..


So to answer some questions..
The firewall needed beat in on the passenger side to help access the shorty headers. I also removed the ABS module and placed the ECM in its spot. The breaks have the stock proportioning block so im going to couple the rear to the master and T the front to the master and call it good after a reverse bleed on the brakes.

MY AC pump that came with the 5.3 was seized and i was hoping the 4.3 would fit but it does not. The mount is different and uses the main serpentine belt and i refuse to run an AC off a main belt. I will be pulling the engine a couple more times in the next year for a t56 and for paint and ill add AC then. The lines for the 5.3 and 4.3 pump are different as well. Notching the frame on these is easy for those who were hoping for a pic. You would notch it from the steering post to the cross member as deep as the top weld and about 2.5" down. Usually if you use a cut off wheel you can flip the cut piece, weld on ends, and reweld it in place depending on how precise your cuts.

I did drop the passenger break line to avoid damage putting the engine and tranny back in. There is plenty of room with the H3 oil pan and i moved the engine as far to the rear as possible.

The steering column lost the plastic and i kept the silicone rubber boot to protect the plastic in the column and denting the headers were needed on cylinder 4 to avoid contact. I also found i needed to wrap the headers because they were very close to the column as well as the AC condenser box.

I replaced the crappy bolts that came with the conversion mounts with grade 8 bolts.

The heater core lines were too short but a set of heater core hoses was $12 so i replaced them.

Fuel lines were the fun part. I needed fuel hose, lube, hose clamps, and heat.. They took some work to fit over the ridge of the steel line and i clamped on the ridge and one directly behind it on the supply side, one on the ridge for the return (each side). The vent used the same connector as the 5.3 after some slight bending.

I did notice i will be getting a drive shaft sooner than i thought.. Im in need of replacing all 5 U joints as well as the carrier bearing so i plan on getting a custom drive shaft within the next month.

Hood does clear everything, but barely! I havent tested with the plastic cover but im fairly sure it will fit with some minor adjustments to the hood supports.

Thanks for following!
Old 03-11-2013, 06:14 PM   #16
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Looks like you got things handled !!
Old 03-12-2013, 03:06 AM   #17
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Yeah for the most part its been pretty simple. I have ran into some issues that i didnt plan for nor did i find when searching the swap. The fuel lines were a headache and i wish i would have planned for some AN fittings. A custom wiring harness would have saved some headaches but at $800 i can take some ibuprofen.

I wasnt aware of how close the upper passenger a arm was to shorty headers and header wrap should be a must.

The AC lines were completely different so i need to pick up some at a wrecking yard as well as a pump that isnt seized.

I also learned a 2006 silverado radiator with electric fans wont fit (47" wide)! So im putting them in my 02 silverado and went with an all aluminum three core rad and slim fans and an external transmission cooler until i get a t56 in.

Oh and ABS was VERY easy to eliminate with a 5/16 inverted flare union and T.

For the record this started as a cheap build until i let my engineering side take over a build up the engine. This truck is really going to be a weekend cruiser/DD and maybe to the track once a year and a car show maybe. I didnt build it for race or for show, mostly for the fun of driving..
Old 03-17-2013, 02:12 PM   #18
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Just an update..
I dont have any new pics as of now because i havent had much time to work on it. I have the silverado gauges ready to go in with red backlight LEDs and blue LEDs for blinkers. I ordered a three core radiator (ebay special) and have to fab a mounting bracket for it. the electrical has been ran and im in the process of sorting out the pins from the tahoe plugs to the s10 plugs. I can verify that this wiring is a PAIN IN THE bumper..

Bought new o2 sensors to go with the tahoe wiring harness and the exhaust should be done by friday (a shop here in wichita)

Exhaust will be no cat, true dual, into a magnaflow 12468 muffler (has built in x pipe) and dumped duals in the factory location (passenger rear quarter). Ill be getting e cutouts later on but for the moment i have other places to allocate that $600 suc has the drivetrain.
Old 03-18-2013, 02:27 AM   #19
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

You are puttin a silverado cluster in it?
I haven't heard good things about eBay 3 core rads FYI. I don't have any personal experience though
Old 03-18-2013, 03:13 AM   #20
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by calebmcclellan
You are puttin a silverado cluster in it?
I haven't heard good things about eBay 3 core rads FYI. I don't have any personal experience though
Yeah i decided on the Silverado gauges because im use to looking at them giving my other vehicles have the same clusters. Im looking into escalade gauges in the future because thats whats in my silverado and they have a race look to them but i have the silverado gauges sitting here and figured why not.

I can post the pinout for it once i upload it to Picasa.

I havent heard much about the ebay rads but i had good luck with one in my civic. This one is a three core that is "for v8 s10s" and the quality looks good other than a random orifice that i have no clue what would go to it so ill be plugging it. It has the built in tranny cooler too which works out well until i can get my t56 rebuilt. The fans are rated at 1700 CFM each so with 2 i should be around 3400 but at 24 amp draw (12 each). Ill be racing with fans off for sure..

Only complaint is i had to half a$$ a mount for the thing as it came without mounting nipples or rubbers. Welds look good and i would say i trust an all aluminum over the composite and AL rads.. blew a few apart so now i go full aluminum.

Ill upload pics soon. Almost have all the wiring figured out and ill post that as well.
Old 03-18-2013, 05:23 AM   #21
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

i have an AC compressor, bracket and bolts if your interested bro. it has the smaller pulley that has the most clearance.
Old 03-22-2013, 09:30 AM   #22
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

build it coming along nicely. interested in the silverado gauges too. ant pics of the gauges yet?
Old 03-23-2013, 09:27 PM   #23
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Illusions
build it coming along nicely. interested in the silverado gauges too. ant pics of the gauges yet?
Ill get one up soon, the truck is sitting at my buddies shop getting the exhaust done.
Old 03-23-2013, 09:55 PM   #24
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Laying out wiring to figure out what goes where. I think i have it all taken care of. I just repinned the c2 block to the s10 and ran the gauge wires where they needed to go to the ECU. I hate wiring and its not at all any fun (especially if something doesnt work right afterwords!).


Had to solder some together because a few went to the same circuit and same pin.


Finished the c2 plug and it wasnt very difficult. Found out the yellow wire on the right needed to be soldered to the starter relay (i hesitate with yellow wired because thats usually airbag colors).


The top cluster i took the old wiring harness 101 plug off and wired to the 100 plug on the 5.3. On the lower end of the pic i took the fuel plug and wired to the 152 plug. Some wires from the c2 needed to be wired to the 100 plug and one wire from the 152 went to the 101 plug.




You can also note the ABS removal.. Used an inverted flange coupler and tee to accomplish it and it works wonderfully and eliminated a lot of slop in the brakes.

Below are some wiring pinouts that i searched for over a few months and they are all right here!! the wire colors may differ but the 5.3 harness should all generally be the same over the years. I look in the era of the 99-02 5.3s and s10s.

Here is the gauge cluster pin out for a silverado/tahoe/escalade.
Left is s10 and right is truck


here is the c block number setup and is the same for all blocks (helps to know what wires go where)


Pinout for s10 C2 block


Pinout for a 4.8, 5.3, 6.0


pinout for the s10 gauge into truck plug


truck to cab plug pinout


Here is the beauty.. the hardest one for me to find.. The plug from the fuel tank to the 152 plug


And the 152 plug


this helped also to figure out what motor mounts went on which side as they were not marked when i got them.


And lastly a fan wiring diagram for the electric fans.


I hope all this helps someone else out as much as it has helped me. As i have stated before i am tracking this build to help people in the future to know what to expect and hopefully show things a little bit differently than found everywhere else.

There are a ton of resources out there and with the wiring, its a pain! I did have to revert back to a schematic a few times and i did wire a lot of wires not needed but its easier to do it this way than trace back wires for days.
Old 03-24-2013, 03:11 AM   #25
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

What cavity did you put the yellow wire in fusebox c2?

All those pinouts are posted in my thread and I can get you more if you need them. You have to be careful because some pinouts like the fusebox changed from year to year so searchin on google might get you the wrong pinout.
Old 03-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #26
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Does the passenger mount clear your knock sensor?
I have similar ones on mine. However they are angle cut for passenger to clear the sensor.
Old 03-24-2013, 05:23 PM   #27
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

? knock sensors are located in the valley cover on 5.3s
Old 03-25-2013, 10:27 AM   #28
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

gen IV were on the side of the block.
Old 03-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #29
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

My wonderful yellow wire turns out to be the starter enable relay control.. pinned to f11 i believe but the truck isnt here so not a whole lot for me to do about it. The only image i had to google was the 104 pinout and took me a week of searching to find the right one. A few people listed the wires but i do better with pictures (Army Infantry).

My knock sensors are under the valley cover. As far as i am aware your knock sensor should be behind and lower than the engine mounts on the drivers side up and to the front of the oil filter (if i remember correctly) and as long as the engine is all the way back you shouldnt have an issue clearing the sensor.
Old 03-25-2013, 02:38 PM   #30
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Im still so confused with wiring. So what exactly do you do? Put the s10 plug onto the 5.3 wires or what?
Old 03-25-2013, 06:01 PM   #31
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

What are you going to do for clutch hydraulics? I'm trying to decide about that myself. I would like to go the wilwood route, but I want to still retain the neutral safty switch.
Kory
Old 03-26-2013, 01:45 AM   #32
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Reaper2210
My wonderful yellow wire turns out to be the starter enable relay control.. pinned to f11 i believe but the truck isnt here so not a whole lot for me to do about it.
That yellow wire is for the neutral safety switch. Circuit 1737 i think. And should have power with the key on. If you put it to f11 it should be cranking all the time with the key on. Have you started the truck yet?
Old 03-30-2013, 04:36 AM   #33
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

I have the truck running perfectly. I did find that the yellow wire goes to f11 and the purple/white wire goes to e2 along with the pink wires that go to the ECU and gauge cluster. Everything else is operating perfectly and ive already left some wicked black marks down the street in front of the house. I got to stare at a wiring diagram for a couple hours until i traced everything back. I also discovered the good ol 4l60e needed a new neutral safety switch and the dealership was the only place to find it today.. I bought the neutral safety switch, and the two plugs, for a price of $333.97.. its MUCH cheaper to order and wait but im tired of waiting!

Tomorrow ill be cleaning up the engine area, finalizing the wiring for the electric fans, and making sure everything is ready for the road. I do have a brake line to re run and still need to bleed because of the ABS delete but she is a beast. I tried to take a video but its crap and doesnt do the truck justice so ill work on another one soon.

If i put the t56 in it i will use factory clutch parts off of a MT s10, no need to upgrade something that rarely fails and doesnt need to be beefed up. I believe factory is best as far as quality for parts like the clutch master and slave.
Old 03-30-2013, 04:41 AM   #34
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by s10gmconversion
Im still so confused with wiring. So what exactly do you do? Put the s10 plug onto the 5.3 wires or what?

Basically i took the 5.3 c2 plug and repined it to fit the s10 fuse block. The 5.3 has a couple plugs that need rewired as well. This rout is usually the cheapest and most stressful rout but i have found it much easier to repin than to cut and solder all the wires to the old plug. Its also easier than wire up the ECU pins from a stock wiring harness! There are only 2 pins i touch on the ECU and they are for the electric fans.

If youre looking at a project and have the money, get a custom made wiring harness and let someone else sort out the mess. Personally i trust my wiring over someone who isnt there to verify it works. You can also strip down the factory wiring harness and it makes it pretty easy to eliminate wires not used if you have a schematic.
Old 03-30-2013, 05:03 AM   #35
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

omg lol $333. i had an extra PRNDL switch lol/ post up some vids!!!
Old 03-30-2013, 08:55 AM   #36
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Reaper2210
Basically i took the 5.3 c2 plug and repined it to fit the s10 fuse block. The 5.3 has a couple plugs that need rewired as well. This rout is usually the cheapest and most stressful rout but i have found it much easier to repin than to cut and solder all the wires to the old plug. Its also easier than wire up the ECU pins from a stock wiring harness! There are only 2 pins i touch on the ECU and they are for the electric fans.

If youre looking at a project and have the money, get a custom made wiring harness and let someone else sort out the mess. Personally i trust my wiring over someone who isnt there to verify it works. You can also strip down the factory wiring harness and it makes it pretty easy to eliminate wires not used if you have a schematic.
I have the money I just feel like im cheating if I buy a premade harness. I would rather modify the harness myself and have the satisfaction on knowing I did the whole swap, not hired out the most difficult part of the whole swap. If you have time I would love if you could pm me a basic rundown on modifying these harnesses.
Old 03-31-2013, 04:48 AM   #37
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by s10gmconversion
I have the money I just feel like im cheating if I buy a premade harness. I would rather modify the harness myself and have the satisfaction on knowing I did the whole swap, not hired out the most difficult part of the whole swap. If you have time I would love if you could pm me a basic rundown on modifying these harnesses.
i chose a 2003 tahoe as a donor and the truck is a 2001 so the wiring wasnt to different. The starter took the most thought.. Basically i took all the pinouts and decided where the wiring needed to go.

First thing i would do is strip the wiring down. I removed the rear o2 sensors because they were taken out when i tuned the ECU. The transmission for now is still the 4l60e; sane as the tahoe donor. I also took the tahoe gauges and programmed the ECU to them. I also had all my EVAP and emissions taken out.

Ill start with the easy stuff.. On the s10 you'll have a wire on the drivers side of the tranny called plug c104 that controls your fuel pump and evap.
this plug has a 6 pin plug and 5 wires, youll use them all. I stripped the 4.3 wiring harness to use the plug and about a 1.5' pigtail (cut down later). This will run up by your fuse panel under the hood.

I relocated the s10 c100 wire from the passenger side to the driver side and put it by the fuse block as well.

the ECU is driver side next to the radiator in front of the fender.

Now is the fun part!

I solder all my wires so invest in a soldering gun, heat shrink tubing, and rosin core solder.

I repined the Instrument Gauge Cluster for the silverado gauges. Looking at the s10 gauges and numbers ill list where each moves to. It is up to you to keep track of the wires once they are pulled.. Oh yeah i used a straight dental tool to remove the pins, super easy.

a2 to a1
a3 to a2
a4 to a3
a5 to a4
a6 to a5
a7 to b6
a8 to a10
a9 to a8
a10 to a9
a11 to b2
a12 stays
b1 stays
b2 to a7
b3 to a6
b11 to b10

Now for this to work you need to solder together the oil level wires that usually run to the Vortec oil pan as well as the coolant level wires (forgot wire colors but they are easy to locate). This way the gauges wont message you for low coolant and low oil. If low oil is read then the engine wont run or start.

Now the 5.3 has a c152a plug and its blue with purple tape around the wires if i remember right. These will feed the pigtail from the fuel system ran to the fuse block.
C (gray) goes to the gray wire
B(dk grn) goes to the dk grn wire
F (white) goes to the white wire
J (Black) goes to the black and white stripe wire
E (Purple) goes to the ppl wire

I believe i had 2 wires on this plug that didnt get used and i just cut and heat shrink the ends and taped with the rest of the wires.

On the c100 plug.. I cut the plug c101 plug off of the 4.3 harness leaving me about 8" of wire to work with. So from the 5.3 harness i cut these wires and soldered to the wires in the position on the s10 c101 plug:

A to P
B Not Used
C to G
D to M
E to E
F not used
G to L
H to R
J to C
K to A
L not used
M to H
P not used
R to D
S not used

But dont button up all these wires just yet, youll use some wires from the c2 plug to go to this harness.

Now to the c2 plug.. Im 99% sure everything is correct but i can only tell you mine runs just fine with no issues but cant say 100% that everything is correct.

On your 5.3 plug youll want to mark all the pink wires with the circuit numbers they relate to. Pink wires means there is a switch or component needing power so usually as long at these pink wires have power at the proper time then everything is good to go. from the truck plug youll place the truck pins in these positions; again i sued the straight dental tool to remove pins. These numbers are for all the possible wires so my harness didnt even have all these but ill list everything i could find. Remember on the 5.3 harness the first number moves to the second number..

A1-A8 not used (cut and cap)
A9 to B11
A10-B2 not used
B3 to D4
B4 not used
B5 goes to the c101 plug to the B position wire
B6 to A9
B7-C3 Same/not used
C4 to A9
c5-c9 not used
c10 to d10
c11 to c10
c12 to e10
d1-d7 same or not used
d8 to f9
d9 to f10
D10-E2 Not Used
E3 to b12
e4-e5 not used
E6 to e10
e7 to e10
e8 to b9
e8-e11 Same or not used
E12-d10
F1 not used
F2 Not Used
F3 to c12
F4-F5 Same or Not used
F6 to E7
F7 Same
F8 Not Used
F9 to c8
F10 to E2
F11 Same
F12 Not Used

I had a lot of wires going to a few places.. I soldered a few together but the 10 slot is a 12V rail so the d10s i just spread over this rail in open places.

That was probably my least favorite part of the swap!

So now on to the electric fans.. I just used the two ebay special slim fans and the currently run together. So on your ECU youll want to have the electric fans programmed to turn on at around 180-190 degrees. If youre running AC then youll need to program two fans with 3 relays so use the wiring diagram on this thread.

for one fan or two on the same relay youll take your 12v relay and find a home for it. Take a pin out of your 4.3 ecu harness (i chose black and give yourself about 2' of lead so you can place the relay anywhere you need. Pin the wire to the 42 on the blue connector. Just use our dental tool to poke a hole in the yellow rubber and push the wire through until the pin is in position. Put the ECU back together.
Now head to the fuse block and find the c1 plug (Long block white) and pin A9; the wire should be pink and is hot when the key is on run or start. Solder a red wire to the pink wire and run to the relay location.

On your relay solder the red wire to the 85 pin and the black to 86. soooo as long as the key is on and the ECU reads the trigger temp this will ground out the relay completing the circuit. So lets finish the circuit..

Your fans will have a + and - wire. Run the plus to a constant hot. I chose the bolt from the battery to the fuse block and added a crimp connector and tightened it on. the - wire will run to the 87 pin on the relay. Take another wire from the 30 pin and ground it to the frame or battery. call this relay MAIN

Tape the wires separately or heat shrink so water wont be an issue. Basically once the circuit triggers it will connect the two grounds, turning the fan on. For trucks with AC youll want to run a pin from the ECU red block pin 33 to trigger a relay seporately for the AC but youll run it the exact same way except for the black wire which will be from pin 33 for this relay. (can also be used for high cool and low cool fans)call this relay AC

With AC youll also want to run a 3rd relay that is triggered by the first cooling fan.. Youll do this by running the red wire to 85 (note all red wires will go to all pins 85 on the relays. Your + on both fans should always be hot to the battery via the block or wherever. Your - should have one fan to the MAIN and one to the AC so this 3rd relay will tie it all together so when the temp relay kicks on then both fans will run.Youll take the wire from MAIN pin 86 (black from ECU) and run it to pin 86 to this relay. You will take the 30 pin on this relay and run it to pin 86 as well (or ground). You will then take pin 87 from this relay and run it to pin 86 on the AC relay. This way the fans run off different relays and the third relay controls the second fan without back feed to the ECU. You can accomplish this with 2 relays but i like to prevent backfeed on the temp side because chances are AC fan will run more than hot fan.


As i said this should work for 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 wiring harnesses. of similar years. My donor and s10 were close enough that this was fairly painless. These shouldn't be much different with the 2.2 vs the 4.3 either and this is for a 2wd setup although the wiring diagrams cover 4wd but youll have to check the pinouts and wiring for the 4wd. This is only how i did it and the ECU was programed to the tahoe with the s10 gear and tire size. basically it thinks its a big truck and this saves me from having to repin the ECU which is no fun at all and would never do it unless i had to. Its also a good idea to have the wiring schematics available for both vehicles in case there are any issues. Marking all the wires that youre unsure of saves time in troubleshooting.
Old 03-31-2013, 09:27 AM   #38
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Awesome job and wiring info
For people wanting to tackle themselves
I may have to look into this silverado cluster
Old 03-31-2013, 04:50 PM   #39
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

I have a few things to do then ill try to upload some more pics and a video once i get a camera holder over to my house.

The silverado gauges required a hammer and flat bar.. I pretty much broke all the plastic in the gauge cavity. I tried to use several options for mounting and was unsuccessful. I used 2x2" windo AC insulating foam behind the gauge and on the bottom to place it. The dash holds it firmly in place once its placed back on and looks factory. I have seen others do this with a different, not so factory, look; the foam method worked best for me. You will also cut all the white and black mounting plastic from the gauge but not the plastic that holds the clear front on; only the places where it usually mounts.

Pics coming soon and hopefully a video.
Old 03-31-2013, 05:32 PM   #40
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Here was the hold up for a little while. Had a baby boy on March 26!


Sorry to post baby pics but im excited for my new helper!

Ok back to the truck.. Here are the gauges with the ignition on but not running


The check engine light is on until the ECU learns the cam position and because the ABS module was removed (still working on a fix for this).

Here are a few pics of the truck finished and back together.




I need to finish the hood and grind the rest of the cross section off. So far my hood has claimed a casualty; the air filter.. There is still more cleaning up to do with the hood but thats part of my body work phase so ill get to it later if i keep that hood.


Here are the gauges with the truck running.


And lastly a short link to a 10 second (crappy) video of it running as i was breaking it in and testing the engine.

Testing the engine during break in

Im working on a running and driving video but as you can tell my iphone 5 makes a crappy video camera.
Old 03-31-2013, 06:03 PM   #41
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Links to youtube videos of the truck driving. My dad was driving it so he didnt get on it much but you can see it run and drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ff6RWjWbV0 <-- Start up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipJwOkptk10 <-- Back up and drive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIC8bbxV2Co
<-- slight rev
Old 03-31-2013, 08:19 PM   #42
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Congrats on baby boy
Looks like a healthy one
Old 03-31-2013, 08:46 PM   #43
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

sweet, congrats on the kid also. make a 20 punch vid of the truck, i wanna see how that cam is
Old 03-31-2013, 10:16 PM   #44
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Thanks! Ill post a vid as soon as i can take it somewhere and run it open. My neighbors are not liking me currently. Ill go run it for a bit and do an in cab 20mph punch and hopefully it turns out.
Old 04-01-2013, 12:47 AM   #45
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Youtube hasnt finished the editing where it rotates it 90 deg but you get the idea of it at least.

http://youtu.be/d618mcvDshI

Its from around 20mph to get an idea of the speed and the cam.
Old 04-01-2013, 01:38 PM   #46
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Catrell92
omg lol $333. i had an extra PRNDL switch lol/ post up some vids!!!
Yeah it was stupid but i didnt want to wait. I wanted to get away from the glue crap that causes them to be an issue so i replaced the plugs with new. Funny part is the pigtails were all the same color!! One plug had all grey and the other plug had all white, so it makes things interesting when i have to pay close attention to what wires im soldering together lol.

For those who may not know, the Neutral safety switch on the 4l60e and 4l80e have two plugs that need heated up before they will come out. They are covered in what seems to be hot glue and this stuff is sticky making them hard to get out and impossible without heat.

Here are the part numbers and my Stealership prices. Please order these to save money!

24229422 - Park/Neutral Safety Switch - $94.92
88987185 - SOP Connector (small one) - $61.05
15305887 - SOP Connector (big one) - $154.75

Yup, the connector cost more than the switch. The guy at the dealership said they had to order them and basically that means they went to poormans auto and picked them up and jacked up the price. I paid a premium but i had them within the hour and it was the only thing holding my truck back from starting and driving.
Old 04-06-2013, 06:26 PM   #47
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Hit the track today and my two best runs were 12.8 and 13.1.

It has a ton of wheel hop wunning WOT on green but easing into it and WOT once its moving i was able to pull higher numbers. I have no doubt with some beefier front suspension, traction bars, one piece drive shaft, and a built rear end that she will pull 12s all day long. Hopefully spray and slicks will get me into the 11s and ill be completely happy with that.

Thanks to Blackbear for the custom tune! She shure turned heads at the track (beat up looking xtreme that hauls!).
Old 04-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #48
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

hey can you give more info on removing ABS im painting my inner fenders today and i want to 86 the ABS because my units bad. what exactly do i need to buy?
Old 04-23-2013, 05:00 PM   #49
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

Quote: Originally Posted by Catrell92
hey can you give more info on removing ABS im painting my inner fenders today and i want to 86 the ABS because my units bad. what exactly do i need to buy?
If you have the proportioning block then all you need is an one 5/16 inverted flare coupler and one 5/16 inverted flare tee. If you need a proportioning block then i would get one from an older s10 at a boneyard and that should be all you need via that rout.

I picked my brass fittings up at o'reilly's and they had to order the tee but the coupler was on the shelf.

Connect the rear brakes to the rear port on the master via the coupler, then connect the tee to the two front brake lines and the front port.

Dont forget to pull the fuse for the ABS and unhook the wheel sensors (or remove them) and be prepared to stare at the ABS light or remove it from the gauge cluster.

I reverse bleed my brakes and they work perfectly; very firm an no more ABS crap.
Old 05-12-2014, 06:12 PM   #50
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Re: 2001 Xtreme V8 Build and Swap

i found this thread threw google search holy shit it answered every last wiring question I had or basically what the pinouts where especially the one where it connects to the body harness thanks for all your researchhh
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