Evap / Charcoal Canister Relocation How To

[paul]

This Article will show you one of many ways to relocate the evap / charcoal canister when cnotching or step notching a frame. In this case I have a 98 S10 and I was putting in Jason’s (suicidedoors.com) bolt in cnotch. This method only requires you to extend one line. And will only cost you around $5 and about a half hour (45 minutes if you own a Minnesota truck)


Parts list:
Common shop tools
2 - 5/16” self tapping bolt (pictured below a few pictures)
2 - ¼” fuel line coupler
4 - Small hose clamps
3 feet of ¼” fuel line


Here we have the stock location of the canister before I started on the project, this needs to be moved in order to make way for the new cnotch.

[paul]

Now with the box removed (I suppose you could do it with out taking the box off but why bother 8 bolts and a helper and the box is off…no biggy). I chosen the gas tank cross member since I’ve seen it here on other vehicles and heard of no problems. I forgot to take a pic of it after the grinding but once you see the next few pics you will know where to grind.

[paul]

I drilled two holes that are slightly larger then the bolts in the stock canister bracket, close to the stock mounting nuts.

[paul]

I’m planning on using a 5/16” self tapping bolt so in this case I used a 21/64” drill bit.

[paul]

After the holes are drilled in the bracket I clamp the canister bracket to the spot on the crossmember that I want to mount it too. Make sure that its not to high so it hits the box but not to low that it hit the exhaust. As the top of the bracket doesnt sit above the top of the box mounts it should be fine.

***Edit I can't get this picture attached.....

"Upload Errors
bracketclamped.jpg:
Attachment in Progress. Can be deleted here."

Can an admin fix this? I have one picture to attach to this one.

[paul]

Using a drill bit slightly smaller then the bolt (1/4” in my case) I use the holes I drilled in the bracket as a guide to where I’m going to put the new holes, make sure you center the holes.

[paul]

Once the holes are drilled I grab a socket wrench and thread the self tapping 5/16” bolt in to the holes, and snug them up good and tight. This is what the bracket should end up looking like all mounted in its new location.

[paul]

The fuel line that comes from the tank does not need to be extended, just pull it out of its holder on the frame and run it along the cross member over to the newly positioned canister. Also in the picture you need to run the big hose over the cross member, in this picture it’s the stock length, I ended up cutting it a bit short so it sat in the dip in the crossmember better.

[paul]

Now you only have to extend one line as said before, which is the line that comes from the purge. Start off buy cutting the fuel line in half with some scissors.

[paul]

Then insert one end of the ¼” coupler in the stock fuel line then the other end in the end of your new ¼” fuel line and hose clamp it. Here’s a picture of the new fuel line, couplers, and clamps.

[paul]

Here’s a picture of the one end coupled and clamped

[paul]

Here’s a picture of the other end coupled and clamped. I routed the line back along the frame between the x member and frame.

[paul]

Then just follow along the xmember to the new canister.

[paul]

And there you have it the canister is relocated out of the way and it cost you around $5 and about a half hour’s worth of time. Hope this helped some of you out. Props go to the ones who have done this before (I can remember where I saw it but it was on this forum since I've only been on the forum for about a month It had to be recently)

Comments, Criticism, & Suggestions welcome.



Later
Paul

[drps10]

dang.. that is helpful to alot of ppl. I wonder if the exhaust gets hot and might catch on fire or something. Just a thought.. got work tho

[Imperial]

Quote: Originally Posted by drps10

I wonder if the exhaust gets hot and might catch on fire or something.

[paul]

To honest I'm not sure but I know there are others that run this same exact setup and haven't had problems. I dont think the muffler gets hot enough for it to melt, I think the box is made out of a fireretardent (sp?) Actually I can almost guarentee that it's fire resistant... I would think it would have to be by law/regulation. The metal bracket acts as a heat shield. Believe me I will keep this thing under close eye and report anything that I find that concludes this not be safe.

Here are some threads Ive found after a bit of search about the same mounting procedure:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f12/charcoal-canister-26021/

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f12/relocating-charcoal-canister-26619/

[paul]

More links:

Heres a pic from www.wickedkustoms.com

http://www.wickedkustoms.com/gfx/p_c...3/Mvc-004f.jpg

I found that link in here:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/carbon-canister-pos-where-do-i-move-it-14575/


Another one:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/canister-wtf-76088/

Paul

[AVTekk]

Thats a popular spot for the canister, exhaust doesnt hurt it.

Theres a couple problems I have with your install. #1 I would not clamp rubber hose over the plastic line. It can deform or even crush or break, causing vapors and fuel leakage. I always cut the metal line back at the frame and clamp the rubber hose there. #2 You left the purge solenoid in its stock location, which may be ok for you, but people who are bagged will experience problems with it there, since the crossmember needs to be notch. #3 The mounting rib for the bed sits right next to that crossmember, and its also where you ran all your lines. It is undoubtedly crushing that large hose, and possibly pushing the smaller ones down into the driveshaft. I would suggest relocating the purge solenoid and securing the smaller lines to the crossmember.

Otherwise its ok..

[paul]

Ill double check everything tomorrow but Im pretty sure the big hose it fine, I took a quick glance and it looked fine, and same with the small lines. I disagree with the clamping. There is nothing wrong with clamping the two lines together. Its only vapor so its not going to be under extreme pressure like fuel pressure, it just needs to be air tight. There are couplers... I think you didnt see those... if you look closely at the "Then insert one end of the ¼” coupler in the stock fuel line then the other end in the end of your new ¼” fuel line and hose clamp it. Here’s a picture of the new fuel line, couplers, and clamps." post... look at the attached picture, see the little black piece next to the hose clamps and also in my hand next to the fuel line? Thats a coupler, its design to splice to lines together. I think your under the impression that I just shoved the plastic stock fuel line into the new fuel line and clamped it.

I should have added that I didnt relocate it for that reason but I figured people that are doing some major notching already will know what to do with everything

Ill check those lines but Im pretty sure they are ok. Ill take a pic, either way

THANKS for the comments thou!!! Much appeciated! Keep them coming.


Hey by the way... I want to get a sticker, I emailed the address for them but never got a response (which was about a week ago). PM ME.




Paul

[paul]

Ooops forgot to update... I checked out the lines that went over the xcrossmember and next to it... all clear, there is plenty of room between the bed support that goes parrell to the xmember and also the big tube isnt getting crushed what so ever.

[drps10]

yea. i was going to say.. if i remember right. it dips down alittle in the middle of the x member. But, if you are going to notch it for bags. then you will have to more the little box thing somewhere else

[paul]

yeah, I might end up notching my xmember after driving my truck a couple of days. :/

[drps10]

lol. if u got a plama cutter. use it!!!. mine took forever.. i didn't want to use a torch. and i couldn't turn the grinder .. so just took some time!