U-Joint question---> -see photos

[redtruckagogogo]

I have a 1997 S-10 Reg cab pickup 2x4, 97,000 miles and a 5 speed.
I want to replace both U-Joints on my 1 piece drive shaft. I think I have the nylon insert type on the front U-Joint

But I can.t tell on the back.(maybe the same as front)

From what i understand I need to use mapp gas and heat U-Joint to melt nylon out correct? What about the back U-joint?(might be the same way?)
Is the front and back the same u-joint? My truck vibrates at about 45 miles per HR.

[OneLowSdime]

from all the ones ive done its the same.....also after you heat it take a socket thats a lil bigger then the circle on the joint and one that is slightly smaller take the smaller one and put it on the u joint and then take the bigger and put it on the opposite side put it in a vice and tighten the shit out of it.....if u dont have a hydrolic press

[mechanicix]

for an easy out with minimal tools just use a hammer and socket.

[Buddha..]

Just heat up the joint, the nylon shit will ooze out. Then pound it off like normal. You don't need MAP gas, propane will work. It's just plastic.

[redtruckagogogo]

Mapp gass 5300 BTU
Propane 2500 BTU

[87wildside]

Quote: Originally Posted by Buddha..

Just heat up the joint, the nylon shit will ooze out. Then pound it off like normal. You don't need MAP gas, propane will work. It's just plastic.

X2. I just use propane.

[tg900]

Quote: Originally Posted by redtruckagogogo

My truck vibrates at about 45 miles per HR.

I'm not sure if thats your u-joints...that sounds more like unbalanced rear tires. when my u-joints were going bad, i could hear clunking coming from about 10mph to a stop, when i was in neutral, no pressure on the shaft. i could move the driveshaft around when it was parked, and i guess the inserts got worn out. you might as well replace them with how they look, they are relatively cheap and easy to do so you dont get stuck on the side of the road one day.

[What?]

moved

[Deeze49686]

nah, it's his u-joints, look at the broken chunk out of the cap on the rear yoke joint, i can also see hit marks on the driveshaft where the thing has been hitting. you better soak those rusty assed cap bolts before you take them off.

[bg's]

You have a plastic insert on the back joint as well.
One can see the dimple for the insert. Spicer Pro
Grade are your friends. Any other is just a short
ticket, unless they are Currie prepped. You can also
use AC/Delco as most all of the drive line parts
are Spicer. Like this, from here.

ACDELCO Part # 45U0136

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392

[redtruckagogogo]

I swapped tires from front to back with NO change. Will do U-Joints this week. And let you know what happens.

[terryl]

You could have the shaft balance checked.

[rixtrix1]

I hate seeing all that rust and the extra effort it causes. Definitely check the shaft to make sure it runs straight; isn't twisted or bent. guess I'm spoiled living in AZ.

RicG

[redtruckagogogo]

U-Joints were the problem. Had NAPA put U-Joints in. $15.00 each, they had to use a acetylene torch to break the caps loose (way to much rust) I tried with Mapp gas and NO luck. Anyone know what fluid I use, to change oil in the 5 speed transmission? (1997 S10 Reg. cab 4 cyl. 5 speed 2x4)
I think I have the NV 1500 transmission. 3 qts?

[redtruckagogogo]

Dextron III?
http://media.gm.com/gmc/mw2ben.html

[redtruckagogogo]

3T40---------- Wrong transmission