Steering & General Suspension How to's and Useful Threads

[Dragginbody]

tilt column repair how to

Replacing Idler Arm How To

Shock Talk

Sway Bar Talk

Power Performance Steering Linkage Replacement

Flaming River U joint steering mod.

[ProTouring2.2]

how about the rag joint replacement how to?

[Dragginbody]

got a link to it?

[ProTouring2.2]

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f178/h...-joint-288516/

post #21

[Dragginbody]

make a separate post with pics and i can add it.

[Hogwash]

What about power steering..........stuff?? I dont have a link thats I posted this.

[Old_Guy]

The shock talk link just takes me to the main forum index.The others work okay.

[ProTouring2.2]

power steering info would be nice, i have a ws6 box sitting here and i need a new steering pump

[americasfuture2k]

info on what to do with that pittman arm when upgrading box's would be pretty usefull as well. i have a iroc box sitting in my 'to do box'

[bmxbang]

Quote: Originally Posted by Old_Guy

The shock talk link just takes me to the main forum index.The others work okay.

x2 thats what i need!

[ProTouring2.2]

Quote: Originally Posted by americasfuture2k

info on what to do with that pittman arm when upgrading box's would be pretty usefull as well. i have a iroc box sitting in my 'to do box'

use the pitman arm that's on it.

[americasfuture2k]

i know this, but isnt there something special i need to do to line them up? i know i need to mark the arm. but marking it to line up to the original box isnt going to help much when the box is being replaced.

[ProTouring2.2]

it can go on 4 ways. it's pretty easy to tell which one is right... spin the input shaft until it's halfway between lock to lock, and install the pitman arm straight out from that.

[bg's]

I'd like to add this link. A lot of guys are switching over to
quick ratio box's and Jim Shea has some great info on different
box's, hoses, etc. This is for A & F body rides but a Saginaw 600
or 608 [80mm dia bore] will go in. Our box's used to be
Saginaw model 800's but are now referred to as model 700's
[70mm dia bore] or 708 for bigger rides [80mm dia bore].
I use a model 700 Alpha code YA out of late 80's Monte
Carlo SS's and it's worked really well. What one should
know for instance is that F body box's will have less pitman
arm travel distance and take more effort to turn, where
A body box's though allowing more pitman travel in
the end, might cause tires to rub on a-arms, etc, so
one needs to choose what steer box one wants carefully.

I use Open Office to view these articles. I think before one
goes changing a steer box to fast ratio, one should know
which one might work best for the app. There is a lot
of other good info in this link and I hope people here
will take a look at some of the articles.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=5

HTH's.

[bg's]

This has got to be one the most in depth how-to's on
rebuilding a GM steering column I've ever run into.
Though it's for a Fiero, it mirrors almost every component
of the s-10 column and explains clearly with pics how to go
about it.There are a few differences, but will work for the
basic rebuild.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088020.html

[americasfuture2k]

woo, long live pennocks! great bunch of people. in every location.

[bg's]

I'd like to add this info for those thinking about a quick
ratio box and what to use. Should be useful.

GM/Saginaw quick-ratio steering box donor car cheat sheet

Late Model 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
ID markings YA, WS and HX
Line Thread Size: M18x1.5 and M16x1.5
Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern)
Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch
Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3
1984-'88 Monte Carlo/Malibu with Z65 suspension
1983-'88 Malibu, El Camino
1982-'92 Camaro except FE1 soft ride suspension
1984-'87 Regal with FE2 or FE3 sport suspension
1983-'84 Hurst/Olds
1985-'87 Cutlass with 5.0 (VIN code 9)
1982-'85 Trans Am
1986-'92 Firebird except FE1 suspension
1986-'87 Grand Prix with FE2 touring or F41 heavy duty suspension

Pre-'76 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18
Number of Mounting Holes: 4, (H-pattern)
Input Shaft Diameter: 13/16-inch
Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3
1967-'76 Camaro, Firebird
1970-'76 Monte Carlo/Malibu
1964-'76 Chevelle

1977-'79 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18
Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern)
Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch
Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½- 3
1977-'79 Camaro, Firebird
1977-'79 Monte Carlo, Malibu
1977-'79 Chevelle

Jeep/S-10 14.0:1 quick ratio gearbox
Line Thread Size: M18x1.5 and M16x1.5
Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern)
Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch
Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 3 - 3 ½
1991-'92 Fleetwood
1992-'95 Grand Cherokee
1984-'93 Comanche
1984-'95 Cherokee/Wagoneer
1983-'86 Bonneville
1982-'93 2WD S-10 Blazer and pickup

Weatherhead conversion fittings
(from your local auto parts store)
Part number M41157X6X16 - AN6 male to metric 16 O-ring male
Part number M41157X6X18 AN6 male to metric 18 O-ring male
Part Number 1446 - female inverted flare thread
(5/8-18) to male 16 X 1.5 metric o-ring
Part Number 1447 - female inverted flare thread
(5/8-18) to male 18 X 1.5 metric o-ring
Part Number 1444 - 11/16-18 thread O-ring
Male to 5/8-18 female inverted thread adapter

HTH's.
bg

[jcurrieirocz]

yep need we need a new "shock talk" link here also....

[BadasTazMan]

Quote: Originally Posted by Old_Guy

The shock talk link just takes me to the main forum index.The others work okay.

shock talk link not working!!

[jdmtrsprts2000]

I just swapped cabs for my S10 went to a 1985 cab and used all the wiring harnesses from the 1993 S10 I had swapped the cab on, getting to the steering column I found that the mounting on the ends of the column are differant, do I need to disassemble both shafts to swap out the end tubes to fix the misallaingment or does some one have an easier way to do it? Im sure someone else has come up with this same situation before, any help would be appreciated thanx,

[jdmtrsprts2000]

Quote: Originally Posted by jdmtrsprts2000

I just swapped cabs for my S10 went to a 1985 cab and used all the wiring harnesses from the 1993 S10 I had swapped the cab on, getting to the steering column I found that the mounting on the ends of the column are differant, do I need to disassemble both shafts to swap out the end tubes to fix the misallaingment or does some one have an easier way to do it? Im sure someone else has come up with this same situation before, any help would be appreciated thanx,

I found out that 1982 thru 1990 the lower mounting bracket to the firewall are the same but from 1991 up they are differant so if you change cabs like I did beaware of this so you get the right columns for your cab

[bg's]

Wheel bearing service tips from Babco.
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti...vice_tips.aspx

Quote:

Wheel Bearing Adjustment
A wheel bearing out of adjustment can reduce bearing life and can affect more than just the bearing. It affects the operation and service life of the spindle, wheel seal and brake components. It is important to adjust the wheel bearing end play to the proper specifications. If the bearing set is adjusted too loose or too tight, it can cause the bearing to fail prematurely. In fact, a recent survey showed that more than half of the bearings on the road today are adjusted incorrectly.

Bearing adjustment did not become critical to braking performance until the introduction of disc brakes. The caliper is mounted directly to the steering knuckle. If there was too much end play, it would cause piston knock back in the caliper, resulting is in excessive pedal travel. The use of direct mount of the caliper is returning to use on high-performance vehicles.

The following procedure is one method for adjusting the end play of a wheel bearing set. Tighten the adjusting nut while turning the rotor or drum. When the effort to turn the rotor or drum increases, a preload is placed on bearing assembly and all raceway surfaces are in contact, providing no end play. Back off the nut one flat to allow insertion of the cotter key. The end play can be checked with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator with a magnetic or mechanical base as close to the center of the hub as possible. The indicator tip is set on a smooth surface at the end of the spindle. Push the rotor back and set the indicator to zero. Then pull the rotor or drum out and read the dial indicator. Allow 0.004 inch (0.100mm) ± 0.003 inch (0.076 mm) end play. Then lock the nut with a new cotter pin. Whether you are checking a conventional wheel bearing or hub bearing, the best tool for checking adjustment is a dial indicator.

Many four-wheel-drive vehicles and most trucks with a load rating of one ton and higher, use a full floating axle. The axle has a bearing set, spindle and hub. The same adjustment procedure can be used for these applications.