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Rear lowering q's, spring rate, geometry, etc

1K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  Rhotpursuit 
#1 ·
Hey all, before anyone asks, I've searched, gotten info on this and still can't get dead-set on a choice here. I'm in the process of ordering suspension parts and need help deciding between rear lowering springs or blocks.

From what I've found, blocks keep the same geometry and spring rate, but they just don't seem like a great idea to me- I've read some stuff about blocks cracking and such. The aftermarket drop springs seem like a much better way to drop, but from what I've read, the spring rate is either unknown or not as stiff. I'm only looking for 3" in the rear (giggity), so nothing crazy, but what option is recommended for reduced wheel hop and better drag launch? I may consider getting some caltracs in the future to help either way, but this is not some full blown drag setup, just a fun weekend racer.

Other info, I'll be getting new shocks all the way around, and I'm using 2" drop spindles with new stock height springs in the front.
 
#2 ·
No experience with drop leafs...however I do have 3" angled blocks that have been in there for 19 years. A forum member made a set of solid aluminum blocks with 3* angle that are waiting to go in. The blocks have worked fine.
 
#3 ·
That's really good to know, as with anything else, you get what you pay for. I'm sure there are some quality drop block sets out there. Was this a group buy/limited set of drop blocks made? Or can I buy them somewhere?

On the leaf spring side of things, does anyone know of a drop leaf that is equal to or stiffer than stock?
 
#6 ·
I have used both, and on this most recent truck I actually had the stocks de-arched and used a set of blocks too. I bought leafs on the last one and they were pretty soft, probably because they didnt have the big flat overload. They settled more than 3" too.

replacing leafs you need either drop shock mounts or new shorter shocks.

with blocks you need to be careful that nothing hangs lower than the bottom edge of the rim or you will skate around if you get a flat.

I havent driven the dearched ones yet, but I had de-arched springs in the past and they lost some tension.
 
#15 ·
Everyone has their own preference on dealing with the d/s. I prefer to shorten the d/s. Chances are the u-joints are getting close to the end of their useful life. Mine was shortened, balanced, and new non-greasable joints for $150...new paint too...lol. Setback plates just add another layer of stuff to go wrong. I'm not sure, but some blocks have the setback built in...you might check with Sean.
 
#17 ·
Oh wow, didn't realize it could be done that cheaply. I mean, $150 is a lot of money, I just assumed it cost a lot more. Does anyone ever use an aluminum D/S from an LS1 Camaro/Trans Am? I have one but its 2 hours away right now so I can't measure it. I could have it shortened and use that, less rotational mass. A lot of V6 f-body guys swap them out for that reason.
 
#19 ·
Next time I visit my mom (I still have another car and a lot of junk at her house) I'll pick it up and check it out. I completely forgot I had it, and my Firebird project is on hold now for the past 3 years so I won't need it for that anytime soon haha. I really appreciate everyone's help and advice so far!
 
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