No Return to Center after Alignment

[new2trucks]

I got my truck aligned yesterday, and I lost my return to center...

I needed new tires in the front and went with 205/60/15s, but there's always been excesive play in my steering, so I made sure they paid close attention to it when aligning it. It came back with bad lower balljoints and the steering box needing adjustment. I took it home and replaced all 4 ball joints, and then took it back so they could adjust the steering box.

Now that it's done, the steering is tighter than it was, but it won't return to center. Coming out of a turn, it'll come back, but not all the way. On the freeway in slight curves, I can turn the wheel and let go, and it'll stay in the turn hands free, left or right turns.

I have the spec sheet, and it reads as this:
Caster
Left: 4 3/16
Right: 4 1/2

Camber
Left: -19/32
Right: -1 3/32

Toe
Left: 1/16
Right: 1/16

I've read on here that a good spec would be 5* of caster, .8-1* negative camber and slight negative toe in. I also read that over tightening the steering box could have caused this too.

Do you think I should take the truck back and ask for the above specs to be put on my truck, or just tell them the symptoms and let them do what they wish? Just looking for some advise on this one...thanks!

Oh yeah, I have a '01 4.3 Extended cab with a 4/5 drop, so getting it to a shop that'll even touch it is a PIA...most can't/won't try to get it on the rack.

[lt1s10onair]

well, first.... if the toe is out significantly, it will not return to center..... i know you have readings, but as someone who has been doing alignments for years, u can fake any of those numbers if you want..... and what do you mean by adjust the steering box?

[new2trucks]

Quote: Originally Posted by lt1s10onair

well, first.... if the toe is out significantly, it will not return to center..... i know you have readings, but as someone who has been doing alignments for years, u can fake any of those numbers if you want..... and what do you mean by adjust the steering box?

There was a lot of play in my steering wheel...about 1 1/2 to 2 inches, so they adjusted the alan on the steering box. I believe they over tightened it.

So from what your saying, I can't really trust the figures on my print out? If that's the case, do I need to take it somewhere else? I'm pretty sure that I can't physically see if the toe is out.

[Deeze49686]

uhhh, 1 to 2 inches is not a steering box lash issue, and i woulda never touched the adjustment. 2nd, are the toe numbers positive, or negative? go back to the alignment shop, and watch the numbers when he puts the heads on, after he zero's the machine in.

[new2trucks]

Quote: Originally Posted by Deeze49686

uhhh, 1 to 2 inches is not a steering box lash issue, and i woulda never touched the adjustment. 2nd, are the toe numbers positive, or negative? go back to the alignment shop, and watch the numbers when he puts the heads on, after he zero's the machine in.

If the play was not related to the steering box, do you know what I could check myself to see what the cause of the play is? The steering play has improved, but doesn't seem to be completely gone...it's a little hard to tell though since it doesn't want to fully return to center. It's almost like there's a delay in the steering if I make real minor turns (like manuvering in my own lane).

I don't mind replacing any parts (already did ball joints and idler arm), but don't want to waste money/time either.


As for the toe numbers, they don't have a negative sign in front of them, they just say 1/16 on each. I did call them, and they said that those are negative numbers. You think they lied to me and are just brushing me off?

[j894]

I believe if you tighten down that screw on the box too much it will cause it not to return properly. Thats how mine seemed

[87wildside]

The adjustment screw is only for the initial setup of the steering gears. You can't adjust for worn gears.

[new2trucks]

Quote: Originally Posted by 87wildside

The adjustment screw is only for the initial setup of the steering gears. You can't adjust for worn gears.

So does this mean that my steering box needs to be replaced?

It's not that my truck will stay turned all the way, as if I let go, it'll go back, but just not to COMPLETELY straight...it'll have a slight turn still in the direction I was going. What this does though, is makes me have to keep in directly in the middle of the lane by control rather than fix if that makes sense.

Even with this though, it's as though there still a slight play in the steering wheel. I was wondering if I'm looking for too much out of the non rack and pinion steering, or is there maybe some linkages I should look at?

I can't make it into the shop again until Tuesday, so if any can give me a direction to go, I'd really appreciate it!

[Deeze49686]

im thinking it's a slight toe out issue, and the s series trucks are more prone to this because the linkage is in front of the balljoint.

[new2trucks]

Quote: Originally Posted by Deeze49686

im thinking it's a slight toe out issue, and the s series trucks are more prone to this because the linkage is in front of the balljoint.

Thanks. as said above, the numbers on the print out do not show as negative, so maybe they are out and need to be adjusted. so I'll tell them to look at it.

[rixtrix1]

Quote: Originally Posted by new2trucks

Thanks. as said above, the numbers on the print out do not show as negative, so maybe they are out and need to be adjusted. so I'll tell them to look at it.

The screw on your steering box sets the backlash between the worm gear and the output gear. If it was adjusted( and it CAN be adjusted up or down at any time, complete setup is more complicated) too tightly, or adjusted with the gearbox off center, it will bind as the center of the sweep is reached. Your specs show that there is a little too much toe-in, which could cause unstable on center feel, not loss of on-center return, however, there is so much tolerance given from the optimum setting that most alignment shops just set the front so it's "in the green", which is often close enough for an average driver.Setting a vehicle to custom specs, or customer requested specs, usually will be done with a no warranty, as the settings are different from what the factory recommends.

I'd recommend going back where you had the alignment done for a recheck, explaining the situation. If they're reputable, they should take care of your problem. If not and they refuse to help, find out if they belong to the Better Business Bureau( which means they will have to satisfy any complaint registered with the BBB), then check around for another shop that is more performance oriented. Call the first shop with the second's findings and ask them what they can do for you. Hopefully, you'll either get it fixed, or get your money back and have to have it done elsewhere. It's a pain, but shops that don't specilize in wheel alignment usually don't make any profit on alignments( and S10's are a PITA to align) and just offer them as a service to attract business. Since you did the balljoints yourself, the shop lost out on the profit potential in offering alignment services. Good luck.

RicG

[Deeze49686]

i just noticed there is almost too much camber difference, but that wont cause a RTC concern, but it will pull. and too much negative toe will only cause an abrupt return to center, and a drag feeling, another word for it is darting. and seeing as toe is set last, did they even adjust the camber?