How To Replace Your Idler Arm

[ajsproaudio]

Well I replaced My Ball Joints last Winter And I beleave I have gone about 4,000 miles since they were replaced

[Hammrshell]

Quote: Originally Posted by ajsproaudio

Well I replaced My Ball Joints last Winter And I beleave I have gone about 4,000 miles since they were replaced

thats all i can think of that would pop

[RangerS10]

Now make a how-to on the pittman arm. I have not greased it since ownership. I think after 50,000Miles. It's due for a new one.

[3rdCoastCrawlin]

how do you know when your idler arm is bad?

[RangerS10]

IIRC Jack up the front end so both the tires are off the ground. Grip the driver side tire on the left and right side of the tire. Push one arm in and pull out the other arm a couple time. Then do it on the passenger side. if you notice more play then it could be the idler arm. But I always found out when my truck failed mass inspection.

[3rdCoastCrawlin]

what does replacing your idler arm help with exactly?
I had an alignment done and it didn't help much, so the shop said I needed to change my outer tie rods. I did that and had it aligned again and it still drifts to the right and there is still a little play in the steering wheel? Anyone think replacing the idler arm would help out any? Its a 99 extended cab with a V6 and over 200,000 miles.

[sws10]

Quote: Originally Posted by 3rdCoastCrawlin

what does replacing your idler arm help with exactly?
I had an alignment done and it didn't help much, so the shop said I needed to change my outer tie rods. I did that and had it aligned again and it still drifts to the right and there is still a little play in the steering wheel? Anyone think replacing the idler arm would help out any? Its a 99 extended cab with a V6 and over 200,000 miles.

same thing mine does i let go of the wheel and it changes lanes to the right quick and theres lots of play in the wheel but i bought a new idler arm today and im gonna install it soon i hope it helps

[rmelifr]

Hammr,
Thanks for the C Clamp idea and the pics! I hit that point where the lug was spinning with the nut and was lost till I found your post. It worked perfectly!!
You ever get to Ft Campbell, KY and I'll buy you lunch!
Dan

"Then, start the third nut that holds the linkage and the idler arm together. At a certain point the bolt will spin with the nut. How I remedied the situation was using a C clamp. I put it on the linkage and the Idler."

[Hammrshell]

Quote: Originally Posted by rmelifr

Hammr,
Thanks for the C Clamp idea and the pics! I hit that point where the lug was spinning with the nut and was lost till I found your post. It worked perfectly!!
You ever get to Ft Campbell, KY and I'll buy you lunch!
Dan

"Then, start the third nut that holds the linkage and the idler arm together. At a certain point the bolt will spin with the nut. How I remedied the situation was using a C clamp. I put it on the linkage and the Idler."

lol, thanks bud. this is the reason i put this up on here, is to just help others in need. thanks for showing the appreciation !

[HooDLuM corp]

yea my steering is pretty loose too and my tires are also feathering...im gonna give the idler arm fix a shot...i dread having to fix these kinda things but it cant be any worse than replacing a cv axle on a 95 s10 ...i'll post up my results when i finish

oh yea, im a bit curious...what causes the idler arm to give us problems we're experiencing...does the idler arm usually bent?, twist?, etc.

[keely]

anybody got an idea of how to pop the idler arm off the control arm If you dont have a pitman arm puller layin around the garage? going to the auto parts store to get one is not an option at the moment.

[keely]

the b.f. hammer took care of it :P

[xtreme03blzr]

Good to know :P

I gotta do mine

[xtreme03blzr]

Ahh.. I love the BFH, best investment ever!

Confirmed that you can just whack it and it pops off, didn't screw with alignment at all.(I had it checked)

[Hammrshell]

great, glad to hear this helped you out!

[Heynen]

so you don't need an alignment after replacing the idler arm?

[01x.joyride]

nevermind my post i had here...

[djlotus]

ok i have a 1996 4x4 blazer ls and i bought idler and pitman arms, but which is the one on the steering box? how do you pull that off? i got a pitman arm puller and it will never fit down there to pull off the steering box!help from anyone would be appreciated

[1stGen4.3]

Great tutorial, I'de like to add a few tips:
1. When you take the bolts to the frame loose, don't drop it before you take the third bolt off. If you drop it then it gets misaligned and will wedge itself. We've taken these off at the junkyard with only a small hammer if they're all aligned, trust me you'll save yourself some headache.
2. When you do the idler arm, you can get it done by just jacking up one side of the vehicle. Leave the drivers side on the ground, and when you get the new arm in, bolt it to the frame but leave it loose, use a hammer to tap it in alignment with the steering center link, then tighten it all up; this is how I did mine and my alignment stayed perfectly in spec
3. If you don't want to haggle with a C clamp you can put a jack on the center link and GENTLY lift up on it. Don't go hog wild or you'l bend it but I just used the jack to lift the center link until I could put some torque on the nut.

[1991S1030K]

Man I tried, tried replacing my idle arm last night. I cannot for the life of me seperate the idle arm from the drag link. I know someone said try using a pitman arm puller, but I tried the C clamp idea and tried using a pickle fork. I hammered the living crap out of the pickle fork and I can't get it. Any other tips?

[BudRacing]

Get a bigger hammer.

I was having trouble removing the pitman arm from my drag link last week which is the same problem, opposite side.
What I did:
Tighten the pitman arm puller so it was putting an ample amount of pressure to the bolt.
Then I took a pickle fork and wedged it in the joint.
Then I beat the crap out of it with a hammer.
Then I let it soak with some WD40 and beat it some more.
It finally popped about 3 seconds after my last hit with the hammer.

They're stubborn sunsabitches, but it'll come out with some patience and concentrated blunt force.

[highplainsdox]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hammrshell

thats all i can think of that would pop

How about universal joints? Could be when going down the road, the joints are moving too fast to really notice any problem with them. They are in more of a strain going slower with more torque on 'em, too. I've heard them pop before.

[highplainsdox]

Quote: Originally Posted by BudRacing

Get a bigger hammer.

I was having trouble removing the pitman arm from my drag link last week which is the same problem, opposite side.
What I did:
Tighten the pitman arm puller so it was putting an ample amount of pressure to the bolt.
Then I took a pickle fork and wedged it in the joint.
Then I beat the crap out of it with a hammer.
Then I let it soak with some WD40 and beat it some more.
It finally popped about 3 seconds after my last hit with the hammer.

They're stubborn sunsabitches, but it'll come out with some patience and concentrated blunt force.

I always use a hand sledge (without any puller of any kind) to dislodge joints. Works on ball joints and tie rod ends, etc. - anything like that with tapered seats. Usually only takes 3 or 4 good whacks.

BTW, don't hit the center tapered pin in an attempt to drive it out. Hit what it goes into. The impact/vibration from the outside will shake loose what's inside.

[AudiTTOWNER]

I dont know how you chevy guys do it but usually when I do a write up like this with pictures I dont put the part on backwards. I just replaced an idler arm for a friend on his 03 Blazer and I was looking at this post. In the very first picture it is showing the idler arm on backwards. The bend in the idler arm is supposed to go along with the frame not away from it. Hopefully this gets changed before someone else puts it on backwards.

[beandip]

Quote: Originally Posted by AudiTTOWNER

I dont know how you chevy guys do it but usually when I do a write up like this with pictures I dont put the part on backwards. I just replaced an idler arm for a friend on his 03 Blazer and I was looking at this post. In the very first picture it is showing the idler arm on backwards. The bend in the idler arm is supposed to go along with the frame not away from it. Hopefully this gets changed before someone else puts it on backwards.

Well crap, i went outside and looked at mine and it was backwards, so i got the old original idler arm out (i kept it) and looked at it, the bolt marks clearly indicate he has his on correct, with the bend going away from the frame. also the back of it was clean also indicating this.

hopefully someone else can chime in and confirm this.

:EDIT:

i went to autozone's website and found this pic, looks like its on there correctly with the bend going away from the frame.

[AudiTTOWNER]

Sorry you are right. But it is confusing in the pictures. He has the old one in the wrong position and the new one in the right position. It is easy to confuse the right way. The right way is the arm bending away from the frame.

[highplainsdox]

Quote: Originally Posted by AudiTTOWNER

Sorry you are right. But it is confusing in the pictures. He has the old one in the wrong position and the new one in the right position. It is easy to confuse the right way. The right way is the arm bending away from the frame.

Last I did one, it seems like there was only one way to put it on so that it lays flat against the frame. Been a while.

[contact420]

The hole process is easy. all the bolts are easy to remove. go from under the truck to get the nut holding the arm to the linkage. All I did was pound a socket over the nut with pin still in it and then removed the nut. the other two were just to easy. The entire theing only too about 20-30 min. And that was the first time changing one.

[contact420]

Quote: Originally Posted by Hammrshell

It took me a total of two hours, including the trip to Autozone. If you get the part before hand and have a friend to help, you could get it done in an hour. I did not have to remove the wheel, i just wedged myself under the front lip.

2 Hours! The first and only time I replaced one it only took 20-30 mins. Only had to remove the wheel and turn the tires to the passangers side, that gave me easier access to the fitting at the steering linkage. I left the cotter pin in the stud and pounded a socket over the nut and removed the nut, then the two from the frame.
If you ask me it was easier the changing t tie-rod. 10 times easier then a ball joint.

[contact420]

Quote: Originally Posted by djlotus

ok i have a 1996 4x4 blazer ls and i bought idler and pitman arms, but which is the one on the steering box? how do you pull that off? i got a pitman arm puller and it will never fit down there to pull off the steering box!help from anyone would be appreciated

Your most likley going to have to remove the whole Steering Gear Box. Then remove the Arm. Thats how I'm going to replace the one on my 96'. Theres a crossmember that is directly under teh Sreeting Box.

[KingJim15]

I was wondering if the location for the idler arm on your extreme would be the same on a 96 4 door blazer? i need to change mine and i just bought the part but dont know if because mine is so much older than yours that it would be located in a different position.

ps sorry for reviving such an old thread

[mrbigshot]

yup its the same location. chevys havent changed much in the last 60 years or so.

[92 S10]

Why did you go with Moog parts? Are there other brands that makes quality tie rod ends and ball joints? Please respond here and at my email codaydm@yahoo.com.

DC

[JimmyJames]

Replaced my idler arm on my '96 Jimmy today, what a pain. Here are the lessons learned:

1. A pitman puller will NOT fit on the stock arm. It slipped about 15 times. I rented multiple pullers from AutoZone, none worked until I used the 2/3 arm 5-ton adjustable jaw puller (it didn't fit that well, but worked better than the pitman puller, the pickle fork, and the 3 arm 2-ton puller). Be safe about the puller, parts can go flying if you're not careful, and watch out for the really loud *ping* when it releases.

2. Take off the tie rod mounting bolt FIRST! Leaving the frame bolts in holds the idler arm and tie rod in place, assisting with removal of the castle nut.

3. Do all your front end work at once (ball joints, brake pads, idler arm, pitman arm, lube chassis, etc.) Once you have it lifted, do it all

email me if you're gonna do this and have questions.

[Woody22]

i put my idler arm on in half n hr..that includes clean up. def helped out alot and my truck only has 60k on it

[Joelin]

Hi guys you can watch how to change the Idle Arm 2000 S10 Xreme 6V 2WD and its easy you don't have to use any c-clamp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yc8SSUc6FiQ

[Joelin]

Hi guys, here its a well explain video of how to replace idler arm 2000 s10 Xtreme 6V 2WD. Add comment and rate

http://www.youtube.com/user/joelin66.../0/yc8SSUc6FiQ

[MorphologicalS10]

Just one more thing that happened a few years back with my S10....

IF you end up taking it somewhere to have a shop replace the Idler Arm, MAKE SURE that they do not bolt it on top of the AIR BAG WIRE HARNESS that runs along the top of the frame.

I do not know how a mechanic could do this and not know what he was doing, but it happened... I made it about a block when I realized my air bag light was still on. Pulled the fuse to make sure it did not blow in my face as I drove back to the shop and complained til I was blue in the face.

After a lot of apologizing from the manager, I got a coupon for a free alignment out of it.

The Lesson to learn is ALWAYS double check your mechanics work, OR just DO IT YOURSELF. I have never taken my truck to a mechanic since.