HOW TO: Flaming River U-Joint Steering MOD

[raven2510]

HOW TO: Flaming River U-Joint Steering MOD

Years: 94+ S10/Blazer
Time: 30min-1.5hr
Cost: $70-100
Parts Needed:
Flaming River U-Joint # FR1746DD
S-Series steering shaft (1st or 2nd Gen)
LockTite Thread Locker
Hacksaw or other tool to cut thin steel
Dremel or Cut off-wheel
11mm socket/wrench
½” socket/wrench
4mm Allen wrench
Flathead Screwdriver
Hammer
Drill and Bits

The purpose of this mod is to reduce the sloppy/loose feeling of the stock rag joint. After I did this mod it almost completely removed the play in the steering.

First you will need the Flaming River U-joint. It looks like this.

You then need to remove your stock steering shaft. You can access it through the driver side wheel well. You will need to remove a plastic shield that hides the Ragjoint. Its removed by sticking a flathead screwdriver in the crack in it and splitting it open.

Then you need the 11mm socket/wrench and remove the stock-retaining bolt. Then with a little force you need to pull the shaft towards the cab to get it off the steering box splines.

Then using a Dremel or Cutoff wheel you need to notch the ragjoint to remove it. Be careful not to cut the shaft…just the ragjoint. You may need to cut it 2 times.

Then you can hit it the ragjoint with a hammer and it will come off.

Then you will need the cut the shaft end where it flares out to get the u-joint on.
Here it is marked and then cut. You should be left with about ¾”.




Next you will want to slid on the u-joint and install the screws and then remove the screws and joint. This will give you a place to make dimples to give the shaft something to hold onto better.

Then drilled. Do not drill all the way through. Just enough to make a dimple.

Then reinstall the u-joint and apply Locktite and install the allen screws. Then apply Locktite to the screws again and install the provided nuts onto the U-joint and tighten.

Now just reinstall the shaft onto the truck the way you removed it. You will notice that the steering box splines have a flat spot on them…. that’s where the U-joints screws will go. Then apply Locktite to the Screw and tighten…. same goes with the nut. Then recheck your nuts to make sure you tightened them and your done.

Now you can enjoy the improved steering. I have had this Mod done for 3-4 weeks and have noticed now negative effects or binding of any kind.

Pics provided and originally done by:
s10cyncrvr – www.s10forum.com
blanz – www.s10forum.com

Tad

[S10dude]

very nice how to w/pic's.....great job...i'll try it in the future

[1s152nv]

OOps, Nice write up.

[raven2510]

thanks
if im lucky it might become sticked for future use
and if a mod sees this i need to edit one thing on it. i need to add where to get it at.
thanks
Tad

[rentedmule]

Also found here
http://www.98esten.com/custom2.html

[arSonoma]

sticky. I think ihave this problem and i am about to start autoxing my truck so this might have just become my nexted mod.

[What?]

It's already IN the sticky, just NOT this thread on TOP of page AS sticky

[droppedss]

thats a great looking mod. I'll have to do that, cleans it up and improves performance as well A+

[raven2510]

Quote: Originally Posted by rentedmule

Also found here
http://www.98esten.com/custom2.html

yea blanz and s10cyncrvr first did the mod....they did How To's in the middle of threads. i did it so ppl can search and find it or the mods can sticky it.

[rentedmule]

definately a good idea - I'll be doing this mod soon too. I just happened to stumble across it on 98esten's site

[racekat21]

what would the difference be if it was a first gen truck?
I have a 93......... is the shaft diameter different?

at the top the got a steering shaft from a first or 2nd gen?

am I over lookin something?

[raven2510]

i dont have a 1st gen to look at. but from what ive read.....the splines are the same and the shafts are near identical. you could get the u-joint and do the mod. im 95% sure the shafts are the same.

[Petro]

So this is definitely the one that I would want?

#FR1746DD 1"DD X 3/4"-30 / ea

[raven2510]

Quote: Originally Posted by Petro

So this is definitely the one that I would want?

#FR1746DD 1"DD X 3/4"-30 / ea

yes that is the correct one to buy.

[beandip]

Sweet! nice how-to. I need to do this sometime.

[Wicked Mayhem]

i did it to my old blazer. didnt really notice any improvement. there is something else loose though the column somewhere that made it feel loose though.

[raven2510]

Quote: Originally Posted by Wicked Mayhem

i did it to my old blazer. didnt really notice any improvement. there is something else loose though the column somewhere that made it feel loose though.

you might have had a bad steering box.

[bg's]

I thought maybe a few of of you might find this of some small interest.
Jim Shea is the guru of GM steering and has done an in depth study
on the old Saginaw system and GM steering [ now Delphi, now broke..]
Some may even find it helpful, but who knows.

Quote:

The Delphi Saginaw Steering (formerly Saginaw Steering Gear Division, GMC) recirculating ball, model 700, integral power steering gear is a marvel of longevity. The basic concept and most major components that make up the gear assembly started production in the early 1960s and are still interchangeable with the steering gears being manufactured today. (Although the 700 model is rapidly being replaced by the Saginaw 600 model gear and may not be in production much longer.)

There are a couple of interface areas that have remained the same from 1964 to the present. Let’s look at the two attachment areas that you will not have to worry about if you decide to make a fast ratio gear installation. The first is gear mounting. There are three tapped holes in the gear housing that are used to mount your gear to the frame. They are in the same location and are the same thread (7/16-14 UNC) all the way from the middle 1960’s right through today! The other is the pitman shaft connection. The pitman shaft serrations and the pitman arm lock nut are also still the same. So this gear will bolt up right to your frame and your power steering pitman arm and pitman shaft nut will assemble as well.

Some of the interface changes that did occur are as follows:
1). The input shaft was reduced in diameter from 13/16 inch OD to ¾ inch OD in 1977. 2). Starting with the 1980 model year, the ports on the gear were converted from conventional 45 degree flare fittings with 5/8-18 UNF (return port) and 11/16-18 UNS (pressure port) female threads to o-ring connections with 16x1.5mm (return) and 18x1.5mm (pressure) female threads.

All of the fast ratio steering gears that we are looking to swap into our cars were produced between 1982 and 1998. Therefore, in order to install a fast ratio gear in your pre-1980 cars, you will need to accommodate one or both of the above listed changes.

[driver762]

Have 99 s10 zr2. steering sucks ass! found out its "rag joint". is it better to replace with solid universal like the flaming river or should i rebuild the pieces of bolted together mudflap scraps that are on there now?

[Petro]

Flaming River by far...^^^

[raven2510]

don't repair...do the u-joint mod.

[crowbar]

does the whole thing simply slide off from the cab end?

I found this while learning how to change the number 3 plug (new owner), thanks for the write up.

[616 of 933]

Has anyone done this to a ZQ8 or extreme? my steering is tight not sure if it is wide tires or not but this would be a great cheap hadling mod. Might have to do it with my drop and new tires at the end of the summer

[MrSonoma]

flaming river mod gives more clearance for the headers or it's just for improving?

[raven2510]

just for improving steering.
the entire shaft slides off the cab end...its got a shit-load of lube on it.

[jhall4721]

Quote: Originally Posted by 616 of 933

Has anyone done this to a ZQ8 or extreme? my steering is tight not sure if it is wide tires or not but this would be a great cheap hadling mod. Might have to do it with my drop and new tires at the end of the summer

I did this mod several months ago. Best $100 I have spent on the truck to date.

[hamagc]

interesting. now the purpose of the rag joint is so if there is sudden extreme pressure, the rag joint will rip before you break a hand or something. what does this mod do for that? i will assume nothing.

[jhall4721]

Quote: Originally Posted by hamagc

interesting. now the purpose of the rag joint is so if there is sudden extreme pressure, the rag joint will rip before you break a hand or something. what does this mod do for that? i will assume nothing.

you might want to re-think that..... besides there are stops on the plates that the rag joint is riveted too limiting the amount of movement of the rag joint. Once you hit one of these stops the wheels turn no matter what.

[hamagc]

so it seems i have been misinformed. that is not the purpose of the ragjoint. thanks for the heads up.

[jhall4721]

Cost was most likely the biggest factor GM considered. The rag joint will help cut down on vibration and noise. Now that I have the u-joint installed in my truck the steering wheel has become a speaker for the sound of hydraulic fluid being pumped through the gear box. Does not bother me but I was like WTF the first time I made a hard turn in the truck after the mod.

[hamagc]

lol does it have a louder hum to it now?

[jhall4721]

umm no not a hum. It sounds no different when going down the road. Its when I put a strain on the PS pump say while parking in a parking lot. You can rear the sound of fluid being pushed through the gear box. Kind of hard to explain the sound. More like what your garden hose sounds like if you have water flowing through it and you pinch the hose.

[hamagc]

interesting. well i can't wait to try this one. i'll add it to my list

[jhall4721]

its worth it IMHO. I have a spare intermediate shaft I would let go cheap if you wanted to have a shaft ready with the u-joint. That is what I did anyway.

[hamagc]

you already have the ujoint on it? what would you be looking for it? i figured i'd just get the ujoint and do it myself. lol usually ends up being cheaper that way. this is on the backside of my list of things to do.

[blazerxtreme18]

nice write up...ive had this u joint in my room for like 2 years lol never got around to doin it....

[jhall4721]

Quote: Originally Posted by hamagc

you already have the ujoint on it? what would you be looking for it? i figured i'd just get the ujoint and do it myself. lol usually ends up being cheaper that way. this is on the backside of my list of things to do.

no the shaft i have still has the rag joint attached. i purchased a spare shaft to modify ahead of time. that way when it came time to do the swap all i had to do was remove the old and install the new. i would let my spare stock shaft go for $10 + shipping.

[raven2510]

Quote: Originally Posted by jhall4721

umm no not a hum. It sounds no different when going down the road. Its when I put a strain on the PS pump say while parking in a parking lot. You can rear the sound of fluid being pushed through the gear box. Kind of hard to explain the sound. More like what your garden hose sounds like if you have water flowing through it and you pinch the hose.

yes exactly....its weird to hear the first time. but its normal operation.

[hamagc]

oh just a stock shaft? i'm ok. but thanks for the offer. if i need a new one i will hit you up to see if you still have it though. this won't be a project i can get to soon. lol i have much more important things to get to first.

curious though, what was the real benefit of this? i know it makes the steering a little tighter but was there any true benefit? did it help with bumpsteer or anything like that?

[jhall4721]

Quote: Originally Posted by hamagc

curious though, what was the real benefit of this? i know it makes the steering a little tighter but was there any true benefit? did it help with bumpsteer or anything like that?

It definately stiffens things up. The stops on the stock rag joint probably allow .25" of movement either way. I am not going to do the math at the moment but at the edge of the steering wheel is would equate to something like 1-2" of movement or play. A considerable amount. I didn't have much bumpsteer before but any that was there is now gone. Keep in mind that the other components of the steering system have to be in good shape to notice a major difference. If the rest of your steering system is worn you won't notice much improvment at all.

[hamagc]

awesome guys, thanks for the info!

[tiresmokinV8]

Does the splined part of the FR u joint have a flat spot like stock? If not how to you make sure you get the correct spline orientation to get a staright steering wheel still?

[jhall4721]

It has been a few months but I do not remember there being a flat spot on the input shaft to the gear box. I had to replace the drag link at the same time so I needed an alignment anyway. but otherwise it should be a big deal. Note the position of the wheel when removing the intermidiate shaft and put it back together in the same position.

[raven2510]

i don't remember if theirs a flat spot but it doesn't matter. the splines will fit on any way.

[timtp2004]

Could you put this up farther on the shaft to have more clearance? I have a toyota that is bd'ed and the shaft is off like 2" from lining up. Could I install this to make it line up?

[rentedmule]

Here's a vid of how much play was in my stock rag joint when I did this mod - the truck has about 74K miles on it and wasn't showing any obvious symptoms of loose steering.

[hurst1979olds]

I am trying to put on my new shaft with the flaming rivers joint on it and am having a hard time sliping it onto the steering box. any tips? anyone have an idea to get it on there. Its about half way on and i lubed the shit out of it.

[cooljoe900]

Quote: Originally Posted by hurst1979olds

I am trying to put on my new shaft with the flaming rivers joint on it and am having a hard time sliping it onto the steering box. any tips? anyone have an idea to get it on there. Its about half way on and i lubed the shit out of it.

make sure you have both set screws out b/c they maybe hitting the top of the shaft on the box and not letting it slide on. On some boxes you have to cut off the small pin on the end of the shaft too. Also, sometimes a light tap with a rubber hammer will help slide it on.

[rentedmule]

The splines on my steering box were a bit messed up and I had trouble getting the FR joint on as well. I had the same problems with the old rag-joint too, I think it was put on wrong at some point. I cleaned up the splines as much as possible with a small file but it still wouldn't slide on even after an hour of filing and messing with it.

I wrapped a small pry-bar in a rag, slipped it through the center of the joint so that it was sitting flush on the solid lower part (not the u-joint itself) and then tapped the side of the bar with a hammer. It took some force but it eventually went on without damaging the joint. It probably cleaned up the splines on the steering box too but I haven't had it off again. The next time I have to take the steering shaft off to change plugs I'll just undo it where the FR joint attaches to the shaft rather than the splines.

[raven2510]

glad people are getting use out of this mod
Tad