Has Anyone Changed There Rag Joint

[wanab03ss]

Im getting a clicking somewhere between my steering box and the steering wheel. Theres play in the wheel that makes the car feel like its drifting on the highway. Anyone ever change there ragjoint. Or had this problem. Thanks for your time. PS Im not interested in chopping 5.5" off my steering stem for the Jeep shaft. thanks again

[MDMILBURN]

i work at pep boys in oklahoma i have seen complaint before most likely it is the steering box that is faulty . if you had a excessive oil leak with a missing cover over the flex coupler i could see that getting damaged ,they usually dont though by all means have your front end checked out there may be other things you can not be able to see from just looking around underneath.if it is the box i only know that you can expect to pay 600.00 + from dealer lett us know what you find out

[MDMILBURN]

oh and if it is the flex coupler there real easy to change if you get one from the dealer there 300.00+ maybe one from a low miladge wreak would be better

[2002Chad]

where in the hell did you get these prices? i just called my local chevy dealor (Young Chevrolet) and they qouted me $398 for the steering box and $198 for the intermediat shaft. i always knew Pep Boys was a Mickey Mouse shop but DAMN!!!

[MDMILBURN]

well here in oklahoma we like are big ears and big prices , i ,ll have to check maybe thats with our mark up but i dont think so

[nastrus456]

Ok, now this is what I think, b/c mine is doing the same thing. The steering shaft from the firewall to the steering gear is worn. (that joint closest to the firewall) Is that the rag joint? sorry I'm slow. I've seen the '93 assy's in LMC go for $329.95. I'd like to know if that's where the vibration is coming from too. I'm just guessing.

[2000 s-10zq8]

my wife's o3 blazer is doing the exact same thing. click in the wheel, extremely loose, almost scary to drive. i figure it was int. steering shaft as well. only 36000 miles on this thing.

[meyers2211]

this happened wit mine, the whole steering wheel column felt loose and clicked i drop the plastic and tightened up the two bolts underneath solved the problem

[appletreasures]

I just bought a used 1990 S-10 Blazer with 4.3L V6, automatic, power steering. It could not be started and driven home due to an oil leak. I had it towed home. While rolling it into my parking space with the engine off it is very hard to steer. I turned the wheel so hard that I broke the coupling where the steering wheel shaft enters the steering box.

1) Where can I get the replacement part?
2) What is it called?
3) What is the rough cost?
4) Is it a job that I can likely do myself?

[bg's]

You can go the Jeep route for the intermediate shaft or build your own.
I built mine using Flaming River billet u-joints and Borgeson shaft assy.
Ran about 160.00 or so. Got rid of the tulip joint up by the firewall
and the rag u-joint down at the bottom going into the box.. >

Shaft Assy cut to fit
Borgeson Telescoping Steering Shafts: BRG-450024 - summitracing.com
Upper u-joint used to replace tulip joint at firewall.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1717DD - summitracing.com
Lower u-joint used to replace rag joint at input shaft to steer box.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1746DD - summitracing.com

Ended up giving more room at the shaft to header primary tube slip thru,
got rid of that darn tulip joint with the nasty rubber boot that always ends
up torn, and got rid of the rag joint with a precision needle bearing u-joint.
Worked out good. Little high, but once done, it's done period.

This isn't my ride, but this member's steer shaft and mine are the
same save for mine has the 1" Double D at the lower position
instead of on the upper position.

http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544.../167872584.jpg

[bg's]

Quote: Originally Posted by appletreasures

I just bought a used 1990 S-10 Blazer with 4.3L V6, automatic, power steering. It could not be started and driven home due to an oil leak. I had it towed home. While rolling it into my parking space with the engine off it is very hard to steer. I turned the wheel so hard that I broke the coupling where the steering wheel shaft enters the steering box.

1) Where can I get the replacement part?
2) What is it called?
3) What is the rough cost?
4) Is it a job that I can likely do myself?

1.You can get it al almost any parts store.
2. It's called an isolation joint or rag steer coupler. Most call it a rag joint.
3.eBay Motors: GMC Chevy 1958 - 1989 Steering Coupler Repair Kit (item 110124666786 end time May-14-07 16:28:01 PDT)
4. Should be able to, if you just broke the rag section of the joint.

Should work if this is what you broke. If not there are other options..

By the way, welcome to the site.

[FLSurf420]

i have a 96 s10 v6 w/ this problem what would i need from summit to fix this forever

[kjm762]

Go to your local parts house & get the part. I think I paid $13.00 for mine. Takes 30 min to install it. This is a real common failure on these trucks but no one sees them due to that plastic cover that is over it. I think there is 6 bolts involved. 1st gens are the most troublesome. It is a steering column coupler if the guy has no idea what a rag joint is.

[98layinframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by bg's

You can go the Jeep route for the intermediate shaft or build your own.
I built mine using Flaming River billet u-joints and Borgeson shaft assy.
Ran about 160.00 or so. Got rid of the tulip joint up by the firewall
and the rag u-joint down at the bottom going into the box.. >

Shaft Assy cut to fit
Borgeson Telescoping Steering Shafts: BRG-450024 - summitracing.com
Upper u-joint used to replace tulip joint at firewall.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1717DD - summitracing.com
Lower u-joint used to replace rag joint at input shaft to steer box.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1746DD - summitracing.com

Ended up giving more room at the shaft to header primary tube slip thru,
got rid of that darn tulip joint with the nasty rubber boot that always ends
up torn, and got rid of the rag joint with a precision needle bearing u-joint.
Worked out good. Little high, but once done, it's done period.

This isn't my ride, but this member's steer shaft and mine are the
same save for mine has the 1" Double D at the lower position
instead of on the upper position.

http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544.../167872584.jpg

that looks nice!!!

[sherdep]

7 months later I am replying to your post but my 97 Jimmy had the loose rag joint so I found a repair kit at Autozone and then went to another store and bought Four (4) Grade 8 (1 1/2") 5/16 bolts with locking nuts
I had to grind the pin heads off of the original rag joint assembly where it joins then tap the old pieces out
Cost me about $15 in pieces to do the repair and test drove the jimmy and it is pretty stiff now

[ProTouring2.2]

Quote: Originally Posted by sherdep

7 months later I am replying to your post but my 97 Jimmy had the loose rag joint so I found a repair kit at Autozone and then went to another store and bought Four (4) Grade 8 (1 1/2") 5/16 bolts with locking nuts
I had to grind the pin heads off of the original rag joint assembly where it joins then tap the old pieces out
Cost me about $15 in pieces to do the repair and test drove the jimmy and it is pretty stiff now

No shit! That's all you did to fix it? I'm gonna try this on my '98

[sherdep]

Quote: Originally Posted by greenflameS10

No shit! That's all you did to fix it? I'm gonna try this on my '98

yup thats all I did to fix the slop in my steering .... if you need part numbers I can get you the manufacture and part number of the kit I got from Autozone to take the guess work out of it for you

[ProTouring2.2]

Quote: Originally Posted by sherdep

yup thats all I did to fix the slop in my steering .... if you need part numbers I can get you the manufacture and part number of the kit I got from Autozone to take the guess work out of it for you

That would be much appreciated

[sherdep]

Quote: Originally Posted by greenflameS10

That would be much appreciated

I will get you what you need including what tools to make the job easier and less painless

[Young Savag3]

Quote: Originally Posted by sherdep

I will get you what you need including what tools to make the job easier and less painless

i would like to know this as well.

[ProTouring2.2]

I already did this... I wrote a small how to in my project thread


I went out and rebuilt the ragjoint on the lower steering shaft today. It was kind of a pain in the balls. It took me about an hour and a half but it was well worth it because the play in my steering wheel is all but gone. It cost me about 15 dollars, if that.

HOW TO: Rebuild Your Rag Joint

Estimated Time Required: 1.5 Hours
Difficulty: 2

What you'll need to buy:



Dorman HELP! part number 31002 (rag joint) from autozone

(4) 5/16 washers
(4) 5/16 x 1.5" bolts
(4) 5/16 nylon locking nuts


Tools you'll need:

Ratchet set and sockets
socket extensions
open ended wrench set
BFH
Punch
Grinder
Drill and bits


Make sure the steering wheel is locked up. Start by removing the intake. Then remove the black plastic cover on the bottom of the steering shaft. It just pops right off when you pull on it. You should be able to see the rag joint now. Remove the bolt that's below it, just before the steering box. Pull the shaft towards the firewall to collapse it and back it off of the steering box, then pull it towards the radiator to pull it off of the steering column shaft. The lower shaft is now removed. Now, do whatever you have to do to get the rivets out of the rag joint (grind or drill). Put the new rag joint in, and bolt everything back together the way it came apart. Tighten the bolts as tight as you can. When you go to put the steering shaft back in your truck, make note of the flat spot on the tightening sleeve on the bottom of the shaft. It should line up with the flat spot on the steering box. It can only go in one way. Slide the shaft up onto the steering column shaft, and then bring it back down onto the steering box and tighten the bolt you took out earlier. Put the black plastic piece back on.

Results: Improved steering response, drastically reduced steering slop.

[Young Savag3]

happy to report that i done this fix the other day and it worked like a charm. No more 2" of steering slop and having my truck darting left and right on its own. Before all alignment/mechanic shops told me it was either my pitman arm(just replaced about 2 months ago) or in my steering box(replaced 2 months ago). Having already replaced those i was just gonna live with it 'til i read this thread. Thanks.

[jadofar]

[quote][/QUOThappy to report that i done this fix the other day and it worked like a charm. No more 2" of steering slop and having my truck darting left and right on its own. Before all alignment/mechanic shops told me it was either my pitman arm(just replaced about 2 months ago) or in my steering box(replaced 2 months ago). Having already replaced those i was just gonna live with it 'til i read this thread. Thanks.E]will this work on a 91 s10 blazer 4x4 ?

[jadofar]

Quote: Originally Posted by greenflameS10

I already did this... I wrote a small how to in my project thread


I went out and rebuilt the ragjoint on the lower steering shaft today. It was kind of a pain in the balls. It took me about an hour and a half but it was well worth it because the play in my steering wheel is all but gone. It cost me about 15 dollars, if that.

HOW TO: Rebuild Your Rag Joint

Estimated Time Required: 1.5 Hours
Difficulty: 2

What you'll need to buy:



Dorman HELP! part number 31002 (rag joint) from autozone

(4) 5/16 washers
(4) 5/16 x 1.5" bolts
(4) 5/16 nylon locking nuts


Tools you'll need:

Ratchet set and sockets
socket extensions
open ended wrench set
BFH
Punch
Grinder
Drill and bits


Make sure the steering wheel is locked up. Start by removing the intake. Then remove the black plastic cover on the bottom of the steering shaft. It just pops right off when you pull on it. You should be able to see the rag joint now. Remove the bolt that's below it, just before the steering box. Pull the shaft towards the firewall to collapse it and back it off of the steering box, then pull it towards the radiator to pull it off of the steering column shaft. The lower shaft is now removed. Now, do whatever you have to do to get the rivets out of the rag joint (grind or drill). Put the new rag joint in, and bolt everything back together the way it came apart. Tighten the bolts as tight as you can. When you go to put the steering shaft back in your truck, make note of the flat spot on the tightening sleeve on the bottom of the shaft. It should line up with the flat spot on the steering box. It can only go in one way. Slide the shaft up onto the steering column shaft, and then bring it back down onto the steering box and tighten the bolt you took out earlier. Put the black plastic piece back on.

Results: Improved steering response, drastically reduced steering slop.

will this work on a 91 s10 4x4 ?

[odawg753]

are the metal tab thing supposed to contact each other when the wheel gets turned or is the rubber supposed to be stiff enuff to prevent that?
and does anyone have any pics? i just bought the help kit

[bg's]

If you go to the sticky at the top, last night I posted a how to
from Jim Shea on how to do a rag joint..Here, I use Open Office
to view the article. It's a very good one and very in depth.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...hing24ja07.doc

In case no one knows you Jim Shea is, he's the design man for Saginaw and
was responsible for the flexi coupler and hoses for GM back in the 70's. So the article
above is from the horse's mouth so to speak..

Quote:

I am a retired steering system engineer from Delphi Saginaw Steering Systems, (formerly Saginaw Steering Gear Division, GMC). Back in the early 1970s I was responsible for the flex cplg assembly and the power steering hoses for all GM passenger cars and light trucks. So I have very first hand knowledge about these products. I also worked closely with other Saginaw engineers that had responsibility for the power and manual steering gears, power steering pumps, as well as the T&T, tilt, and standard (non-adjustable) steering columns. I still keep in contact with Saginaw engineers (both active and retired) who help me with my steering papers on Terry Rudy’s www.corvettefaq.com websight, (both in the Corvette Steering Paper Section and the A & F-Car Steering Paper Section.)

[ZchaRlie20]

Quote: Originally Posted by bg's

You can go the Jeep route for the intermediate shaft or build your own.
I built mine using Flaming River billet u-joints and Borgeson shaft assy.
Ran about 160.00 or so. Got rid of the tulip joint up by the firewall
and the rag u-joint down at the bottom going into the box.. >

Shaft Assy cut to fit
Borgeson Telescoping Steering Shafts: BRG-450024 - summitracing.com
Upper u-joint used to replace tulip joint at firewall.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1717DD - summitracing.com
Lower u-joint used to replace rag joint at input shaft to steer box.
Flaming River Billet-Joint Steering Universal Joints: FLA-FR1746DD - summitracing.com

Ended up giving more room at the shaft to header primary tube slip thru,
got rid of that darn tulip joint with the nasty rubber boot that always ends
up torn, and got rid of the rag joint with a precision needle bearing u-joint.
Worked out good. Little high, but once done, it's done period.

This isn't my ride, but this member's steer shaft and mine are the
same save for mine has the 1" Double D at the lower position
instead of on the upper position.

http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544.../167872584.jpg

I purchased a new PSC Steering Gearbox the other day, as well as a new PS fluid cooler. Also getting a new pitman arm, the idlers been replaced, along with the ball joints and tie rod ends soon.

Question - I noticed the Flaming River u-joints on summit, how do those attach to the gearbox and the upper connect, as well as the steering shaft itself? I see 4 little black screws in the picture on the summit site - do those just screw in tight to the steering shaft etc?

[bg's]

^^ Yes they are set screws. You drill two dimples onto the
shafts, screw the set screws into the joints down into the
dimples and you're set to go. Work great. Another member
is going about it as well in this thread..>

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f178/f...g-help-344646/

Here are some tips from FR.

http://www.flamingriver.com/p_view_i..._Tech_Tips.gif

[ZchaRlie20]

My question is, how hard is it get the drill down there to drill the upper shaft portion that is going into the firewall for the set scr