thinking bout doing one pump setup

MiniTruckerNKY · 08-23-2009, 10:57 PM

sup guys, i have 1 pump i am pondering if i want to put it o my truck just for front and back. (im lowered 5/6 right now and tired of the "bagged" kids getting beside me and pssst pssst'n on me, anyways i have a 91 ex cab.

i want to know how exactly to mount/install the cylinder to the LCA's i know about drilling the stock shock hole out for the top of cylinder to got through. just need ics of how to install it to LCA.

also i like having a truck i can use, so i dont want to cludder up the bed so i think i can get 1 pump 3 batts under the bed behind the rear end ( i will be reinforcing the frame in weak spots) and i dont want to make a bridge or anything i am running 18's right now and want to know if there is antway i can mount rear cylinders to the frame or use stock shock mounts on frame to mount cylinders so i WONT have to have cylinder sticking up through the bed.

any info or help would be great, also considering monoleaf i have had old friends that used them and never had a prob with it. or might now a univ 4 link.

pics would be great if anyone has any of how to exactly mount/install cylinder to LCA and any ideas on how i can run rear cylinders WITOUT building a bridge or having cylinders sticking up through the bed.

thanks in advance

AndrewH · 08-24-2009, 03:46 PM

Here is what you need to look at doing. in the front, you will want a coil over setup. you need the cylinders, Deep Coil Under (Regular) cups, and cylinder bolts,to join the cylinder and cup together. this sits on top of the coil spring, and requires shock relocation or an accumulator if you desire. The front typically doesnt not require a dampening component though, mearly preference... The bottom of the coil fits in the LCA like normal.. You can lay out on the factory springs and still retain plenty of coil, I'd say 5 turns and have your tie rods hit frame (which is pretty low). the purpose of the deep cup is to seat in the coil better than a regular cup, and provide more drop (about 1.5")without cutting more spring. Since the center of the upper pocket is cut, and teeth bent downwards from the factory, you need to remove these teeth, and place a plate over the area to hold the cylinder. You can simpley buy 'donuts' to sit around the collar of the cylinder. they are a tight fit and hold the cylinder in place.

AndrewH · 08-24-2009, 04:00 PM

In the rear. you will have to run shocks or accumulators. so keeping your shock mounts free are a good idea.

There are many methods of keeping the cylinder under the bed, one is to do a coil over mount, and put the lower cylinder mount as low as you are willing to go (bottom of pumpkin is a good reference) You can drop the brackets off of the axle housing, or off of the leafe spring bracketry, and a coil spring sits around the cylinder.most of the secondary leafe springs are removed and the main leafe is used soley as a control arm. You just need to know how much to expect the suspension to compress, and leave that much room between the top of the cylinder, and the bed, since the cylinder stays stationary (with thew axle) as the spring compresses and the body drops around it. You're basically limited to an 8" cylinder doing this. probly not making much sence right now,but you will get it once u see a pic

for a notch in the rear, you should remove the cross brace on the bed that runs above the axle. this will give you 2 more inches to raise your frame up. the demensions of your new c section are up to you,but make them beefy, as the frame was not intended to be supported in the middle by a coil spring,but at the front and rear eyes of the leafe springs. the spare tire rack can be removede and offers plenty of room for equipment if you are creative

I will go take some pics so you have an idea

AndrewH · 08-24-2009, 04:23 PM

scratch all of that, I thought you were talking about a full size for some reason. due to your forums editing rules,, i guess you are just shit out of luck

AndrewH · 08-24-2009, 04:36 PM

most of the info applies to s series truck also, you just dont have as much room. but I'm not going back to take more pics,lol

this is the arrangement of a coil under suspension

I highlighted the cylinder piston in red. it drops down into the cup,and a bolt is ran into the end from the bottomonside of the cup

a-arm is notched so it doesnt hit the cylinder when layed out

this is how the cylinder enters the engine bay. the hole in the a-arm mount is not enough, it needs a donut underneith pushing against where the teeth were.

08-23-2009, 10:57 PM	#1
MiniTruckerNKY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 34 Location: User is: OffLine	thinking bout doing one pump setup sup guys, i have 1 pump i am pondering if i want to put it o my truck just for front and back. (im lowered 5/6 right now and tired of the "bagged" kids getting beside me and pssst pssst'n on me, anyways i have a 91 ex cab. i want to know how exactly to mount/install the cylinder to the LCA's i know about drilling the stock shock hole out for the top of cylinder to got through. just need ics of how to install it to LCA. also i like having a truck i can use, so i dont want to cludder up the bed so i think i can get 1 pump 3 batts under the bed behind the rear end ( i will be reinforcing the frame in weak spots) and i dont want to make a bridge or anything i am running 18's right now and want to know if there is antway i can mount rear cylinders to the frame or use stock shock mounts on frame to mount cylinders so i WONT have to have cylinder sticking up through the bed. any info or help would be great, also considering monoleaf i have had old friends that used them and never had a prob with it. or might now a univ 4 link. pics would be great if anyone has any of how to exactly mount/install cylinder to LCA and any ideas on how i can run rear cylinders WITOUT building a bridge or having cylinders sticking up through the bed. thanks in advance
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2009, 03:46 PM	#2
AndrewH Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 52 Location: Northern Arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: thinking bout doing one pump setup Here is what you need to look at doing. in the front, you will want a coil over setup. you need the cylinders, Deep Coil Under (Regular) cups, and cylinder bolts,to join the cylinder and cup together. this sits on top of the coil spring, and requires shock relocation or an accumulator if you desire. The front typically doesnt not require a dampening component though, mearly preference... The bottom of the coil fits in the LCA like normal.. You can lay out on the factory springs and still retain plenty of coil, I'd say 5 turns and have your tie rods hit frame (which is pretty low). the purpose of the deep cup is to seat in the coil better than a regular cup, and provide more drop (about 1.5")without cutting more spring. Since the center of the upper pocket is cut, and teeth bent downwards from the factory, you need to remove these teeth, and place a plate over the area to hold the cylinder. You can simpley buy 'donuts' to sit around the collar of the cylinder. they are a tight fit and hold the cylinder in place.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2009, 04:00 PM	#3
AndrewH Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 52 Location: Northern Arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: thinking bout doing one pump setup In the rear. you will have to run shocks or accumulators. so keeping your shock mounts free are a good idea. There are many methods of keeping the cylinder under the bed, one is to do a coil over mount, and put the lower cylinder mount as low as you are willing to go (bottom of pumpkin is a good reference) You can drop the brackets off of the axle housing, or off of the leafe spring bracketry, and a coil spring sits around the cylinder.most of the secondary leafe springs are removed and the main leafe is used soley as a control arm. You just need to know how much to expect the suspension to compress, and leave that much room between the top of the cylinder, and the bed, since the cylinder stays stationary (with thew axle) as the spring compresses and the body drops around it. You're basically limited to an 8" cylinder doing this. probly not making much sence right now,but you will get it once u see a pic for a notch in the rear, you should remove the cross brace on the bed that runs above the axle. this will give you 2 more inches to raise your frame up. the demensions of your new c section are up to you,but make them beefy, as the frame was not intended to be supported in the middle by a coil spring,but at the front and rear eyes of the leafe springs. the spare tire rack can be removede and offers plenty of room for equipment if you are creative I will go take some pics so you have an idea
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2009, 04:23 PM	#4
AndrewH Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 52 Location: Northern Arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: thinking bout doing one pump setup scratch all of that, I thought you were talking about a full size for some reason. due to your forums editing rules,, i guess you are just shit out of luck
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-24-2009, 04:36 PM	#5
AndrewH Registered User Age: 24 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 52 Location: Northern Arkansas User is: OffLine	Re: thinking bout doing one pump setup most of the info applies to s series truck also, you just dont have as much room. but I'm not going back to take more pics,lol this is the arrangement of a coil under suspension I highlighted the cylinder piston in red. it drops down into the cup,and a bolt is ran into the end from the bottomonside of the cup a-arm is notched so it doesnt hit the cylinder when layed out this is how the cylinder enters the engine bay. the hole in the a-arm mount is not enough, it needs a donut underneith pushing against where the teeth were.
	[Reply w/Quote]