front setup for 98 s10

[stockchevy1983]

im looking for jsut a 1 pump kit, maybe 2 batts, for the front of my pickup. i been looking into reds hydraulics. THE COMPLETE KIT INCLUDES ONE COMPETITION PUMP, TWO COMPETITION DUMPS, ALL HOSES AND FITTINGS, DONUTS AND CUPS, ONE PAIR OF CYLINDERS, AND SWITCH CORD. all that for 529$.

does that sound like a good start?

[juiced93]

dosent sound to bad but u could save money not going with comp pumps and clyinders.... check out prohoppers front kit... ProHopper Hydraulics | Simply The Best PH175 Pro-X Front Kit

but ur still going to need coils u can use fullsize springs but i like the mach 3's but just a prefrence...

[stockchevy1983]

tru yea its hard finding kits for hydraulics, lots of shit for air but not hydros. i know prohopper are good too cuz i know some one with a 2 pump 10 batt setup in his impala. for juice wise, 2 batteries would be a good start right? im not looknig for anything crazy. i wanna get a basic setup first and go from there

[juiced93]

yeah 2's good for a sigle pump but alll should be good

[stockchevy1983]

Quote: Originally Posted by juiced93

yeah 2's good for a sigle pump but alll should be good

for installation, what am i looking at, i know this has to be welded in unlike bags, and i dontk now how to weld. im thinking of buying this prohopper kit sometime in may, cuz my birthday is then. all i need after the kit, is what, batteries and installation, right?

[stockchevy1983]

bump

[juiced93]

and coils

[stockchevy1983]

Quote: Originally Posted by juiced93

and coils

ok what weight coils do i need, 1/2 ton, 1 ton, nothing to pricey but nutin cheap.

[RD Fabrication]

2 ton minimum on the front coils and they'll also give a decent ride with enough turns. also if your only doing the front you dont have to weld anything. you can cut the cylinder holes with a hole saw and notch the upper a-arm with a cut-off wheel. and then use a drill and bolt everything down in the bed. no welding. pretty simple to do

[stockchevy1983]

what do u mean with enough turns?

[RD Fabrication]

turns of the spring or one complete circle

[stockchevy1983]

oh thats all that it means? i thoguht it was something more complicated lol. thanks for the picture

[RD Fabrication]

no problem

[stockchevy1983]

why doesnt anything have to be welded in front? i thoguht the cylinder cups had to be welded into place

[RD Fabrication]

the cylinder donuts/washers? not at all, if you drill the cylinder hole with the right size hole saw right where the upper shock mounts there really is no need to weld anything. yes it is a little nicer to weld it in and a little less rattle but it is not neccesary.

[stockchevy1983]

Quote: Originally Posted by rdkustom

the cylinder donuts/washers? not at all, if you drill the cylinder hole with the right size hole saw right where the upper shock mounts there really is no need to weld anything. yes it is a little nicer to weld it in and a little less rattle but it is not neccesary.

if i did hop it once in a while, it would be ok. actually come to think of it, will i be able to get a lil bit of air with 2 batts?

[RD Fabrication]

you would be fine, if it will hop on 24 volts/2 battery's

[stockchevy1983]

Quote: Originally Posted by rdkustom

you would be fine, if it will hop on 24 volts/2 battery's

well i can always add a battery if i need to right?

[RD Fabrication]

yea, you can add more. just make sure you keep your switches and dumps running at 24 volts max

[stockchevy1983]

the kit i was looking at comes with one switch, how do i get to switches, like one for each cylinder?

[RD Fabrication]

as long as you have 2 dumps/ one for each corner, then you can add more swiches. up to 3, front left - front right - front

[stockchevy1983]

ok cool man, u been the best help out of al lthe other forums lol. i appreciate it

[RD Fabrication]

no prob, i just picked up a set of switches for cheap and started putting them on my truck today. ill have some pics up tomorrow... the fronts already done, im gonna step notch the rear and then mount everything else up tomorrow. should turn out nice

[stockchevy1983]

def get some pics

[itzmeto]

do u need powerballs for the front too???? how do u mount the cylinder to the LCA...thanks..

[RD Fabrication]

powerball are for the rear, but are not neccesary. you have to drill a hole where the front shock mounts on top. theres a 1/2 ich hole where the shocks bolts thru, well you pull the shock out and make that hole approx 1 3/4 - 2 inch for the cylinder to fit in snuggly. im finishing my truck this weekend, ill post some pics

[RD Fabrication]

yo, i have pics up of my truck im doing, check it out. link in my sig

[NssJ]

Quote: Originally Posted by rdkustom

the cylinder donuts/washers? not at all, if you drill the cylinder hole with the right size hole saw right where the upper shock mounts there really is no need to weld anything. yes it is a little nicer to weld it in and a little less rattle but it is not neccesary.


you have to drill a hole where the front shock mounts on top. theres a 1/2 ich hole where the shocks bolts thru, well you pull the shock out and make that hole approx 1 3/4 - 2 inch for the cylinder to fit in snuggly. im finishing my truck this weekend, ill post some pics

On this note...
"right size hole saw" ive heard some say cut with the hole saw equal to cyl size, some say cut with one size down so the hole will fit closer...

ie: 1.5in cyl use a 1.25 or so holesaw... supposedly fit better than a 1.5in hole saw...

any opinion there?

also, do you have to trim the spring pocket or anything up into the frame to allow the donut to sit up in there flush?

[NastyRedz]

cut the hole off center, I found better results. I have run stock springs cut to about 3 or 4 turns with a great ride, I also used shocks. . Ive torched the whole chaasis on a s10 in the front spring pocket and built towers for huge springs but overkill. Ill stay around here for a few days and give away secerets