THE welder comparo!

tennerv8 · 04-23-2008, 07:53 PM

I'd like to but I tig stainless and aluminum at work not mild steel.

low-s-dime · 04-23-2008, 09:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by tennerv8

I'd like to but I tig stainless and aluminum at work not mild steel.

i hear ya...i tig all kinds of shit at work...mainly stainless and carbon steel...sa/a 105 wcb and 316/316lss along with cf8m cast stainless

tennerv8 · 04-23-2008, 10:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime

i hear ya...i tig all kinds of shit at work...mainly stainless and carbon steel...sa/a 105 wcb and 316/316lss along with cf8m cast stainless

Do you have problems with your eyes at work when you tig? The puddle plays with my eyes sometimes. Like my vision gets spotty. Only at higher amps. Only on long straits.

low-s-dime · 04-23-2008, 11:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by tennerv8

Do you have problems with your eyes at work when you tig? The puddle plays with my eyes sometimes. Like my vision gets spotty. Only at higher amps. Only on long straits.

nah, but i have been having issues with pure tungsten...it doesnt like to behave when starting an arc

tennerv8 · 04-24-2008, 09:14 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime

nah, but i have been having issues with pure tungsten...it doesnt like to behave when starting an arc

How are you sharpening your tungsten? What do you use?

low-s-dime · 04-24-2008, 09:47 PM

dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right?

sadexcuse4s10 · 04-24-2008, 11:04 PM

build the 2X3 1/4" thick frame for my stockfloored '86 with a Miller 135.

lets just say that i'd easily die in the wreck before the frame would bend

tennerv8 · 04-24-2008, 11:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime

dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right?

If you sharpen your tungsten horizontally the electrons will shoot out the sides of the tungsten and create an erratic arc. If that makes sense. If there are horizontall "grooves" in the tungsten the electrons will shoot away from the work. If your grooves are vertically, the electrons will be directed and attracted to the tip of your tungsten. Grooves from sharpening that is. If that makes sense. Hard to explain on a keyboard

low-s-dime · 04-24-2008, 11:39 PM

yep, only vertical

TUCNRIM88 · 05-12-2008, 11:32 AM

I Have A Miller 175 At My Shop

A Lincoln 135 At Home

My Brother Has The Lincoln 175 At The Farm

Now My 135 Was Second Hand So It Might Be Why I Think This

But In My Opinion

The 135 Does Not Weld Over 1/4 Really Good Could Be That Its Old

The Lincoln 175 Rocks On All Heavy But I Cant Seem To Dial It In For Sheet Metal

The Damn Miller 175 That Everyone Tells Me They Hate Will Weld Everything I Use It For

Im Not A Welder We Have Certified Welders Next Door To Us

After Seeing Them Weld And Gusset Things I Have No Idea How At Least Thee Of My Trucks Did Not Break In Half Or Maybe They Just Dont Need To Be That Strong They Do Heavy Equipment Over There

jcrazyjj · 05-12-2008, 12:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TUCNRIM88

I Have A Miller 175 At My Shop

A Lincoln 135 At Home

My Brother Has The Lincoln 175 At The Farm

Now My 135 Was Second Hand So It Might Be Why I Think This

But In My Opinion

The 135 Does Not Weld Over 1/4 Really Good Could Be That Its Old

The Lincoln 175 Rocks On All Heavy But I Cant Seem To Dial It In For Sheet Metal

The Damn Miller 175 That Everyone Tells Me They Hate Will Weld Everything I Use It For

Im Not A Welder We Have Certified Welders Next Door To Us

After Seeing Them Weld And Gusset Things I Have No Idea How At Least Thee Of My Trucks Did Not Break In Half Or Maybe They Just Dont Need To Be That Strong They Do Heavy Equipment Over There

or it could be because its pushing 40 less amps and does have the power to get good penetration on the thicker stuff. the absolute thickest id weld with the 135 is 3/16, and thats pushing it. if you have the option use the 175 for ANYTHING structural. itll get you more heat, more penetration therefore a safer weld.

npa4863 · 08-08-2008, 05:02 PM

my dad was really good with a stick welder but with the mig we got he cant even do simple body work. its a pain cuz i get to bond-o it and when i get almost finished it brakes off. i ot to start checking them with a hammer.

DFitty · 11-15-2008, 05:09 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sadexcuse4s10

if your hobart died becuase you passed the duty cycle too many times, that's your own fault man

mine sure does weld 1/4" in a single pass and it's only a 125 amp machine, and naturally, I obey the duty cycle and don't run the piss out of it with thicker stuff

if you'll use it like it's intended and not crank the amps as high as possible and try to build a full frame in a day you'll be fine and you won't kill the welder

i almost completed a full frame in a day with my hobart 187..idk even know what the DC is haha. it never shut off tho and i worked the shit out of it that weekend,i love my hobart lol. but i do need a new gun is anyone knows where i can get one.

94 SS S10 4.3 · 11-22-2008, 05:12 PM

MIG WELDERS

Lincoln SP 180T - $640.00
Range: 30-180 amps
Power: 208-230 V
Material: 24g - 3/16 in
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003799.htm

Hobart IronMan 210 $1099.99
Range: 30-210 amps
Power: 208-230 V
Material: 22g - 3/8 in
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43550

Miller Millermatic 180 230 $805.00
Range: 30-180 amps
Power: 230 V
Material: 24g-5/16 in
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003461.htm

Miller Millermatic 212 Industrial $1,511.00
Range: 30-210 amps
Power: 230 V
Material: 22g-3/8 in
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001731.htm

Lincoln WeldPak $439.00
Range: 25-135a
Power: 115v
Material: up to 5/16 in
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...y=Kannapo lis

These are the best MIG welders that I have found so far. It seems to give the best options and best range for the money and project possibilities. I am understanding a lot more about welding from the links I have been given by Eric (Wildside).
Check his Sticky for more info:
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8860

idragbodys10 · 01-06-2009, 01:07 AM

whats everyone suggest for a tig?

DRANGED · 02-03-2009, 03:40 PM

I am going to buy a mig welder in 2 weeks! I am wondering if the welder at home depot for $360 is the one I need to shave handles and fill in the tailgate? I want to spend $400 total. I am looking for suggestions on which welder to get.

jcrazyjj · 02-03-2009, 04:10 PM

as long as said welder can be switched over to solid core wire and not flux then it should be fine. i dont suggest trying to shave anything using flux core.

jwillie000 · 08-31-2009, 12:50 AM

would this be two much to work on my truck sheet metal and frame?http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2GPK2

jwillie000 · 09-03-2009, 12:27 AM

bump?

DFitty · 09-03-2009, 01:02 AM

those DVI millers are badass.

it will work great for what ya wanna do man.

350X · 09-12-2009, 01:52 AM

One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds.

Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time.
Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in.
Save $100+ there.

Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds.
The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on.

Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic.

Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool.

jcrazyjj · 09-12-2009, 03:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 350X

One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds.

Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time.
Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in.
Save $100+ there.
Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds.
The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on.
Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic.
Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool.

350X · 09-12-2009, 05:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jcrazyjj

That stranger in the park had more then just candy in his pocket huh?

AssDragginSdime · 09-18-2009, 12:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime

dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right?

yea i had the same issues with pure tungsten on a syncrowave 180sd. I dont like pure tungsten for steel. 2% thoriated is the way to go with dc welding. Pure tungsten tends to burn up fast under DC than 2% thoriated anyway. Im not sure exactly why it does it, But i defintiely have to scratch start with pure tungsten.

AssDragginSdime · 09-18-2009, 12:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 350X

One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds.

Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time.
Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in.
Save $100+ there.
Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds.
The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on.
Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic.
Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool.

any welder that has a switch for its heat setting.. i'll pass lol

jwillie000 · 09-25-2009, 11:26 PM

anybody know anthing about Century welders. i found a big one for 700 the other day

AssDragginSdime · 09-26-2009, 01:09 PM

they are cheap machines. im sure they work but parts are not going to be stocked everywhere, so IF you have an issue.. It might become more of a headache than its worth. Personally for $700 if you look around you can find a millermatic for that much. you can find a good 200 or larger machine for $500 easy. I sold a millermatic 250 about a year ago for like 800 or 900. And have since seen them from $450 and up.

jwillie000 · 09-28-2009, 12:40 AM

any body think a miller vintage is worth 1000? it looks well used.

AssDragginSdime · 09-28-2009, 03:39 AM

nah. When i bought my millermatic 250, it was either the vintage or the 250, both were used, The vintage was bout $650-700, and the 250 was like 850-900 i think i paid. Both were being sold by a welding supply dealer, and not a private party, so it wasnt like i had just found a guy who didnt know what he had... Its a good machine, dont get me wrong. I dont like how it has a rotary switch instead of a pot for your voltage selector tho, which is why i went with the 250.

AssDragginSdime · 09-28-2009, 05:46 PM

if you want to find an EXCELLENT EXCELLENT mig welder for your money... Look for a Linde L-tec 225. I have one im keeping my eye on a few miles from me that im probably going to pick up over the next week or two for about $300..

I used one of these extensively over the past 3 years at my last job. The machine looks like shit.. Looks like a pile of crap.. But some of the most beautiful looking welds i have ever produced came from that machine. We had millers for days.. millermatic 250,300,and 350p machines.. All were great, But to be 100% honest, when there was a choice of machines for me to use for the day.. i always used the linde whenever i could. lol me and my boss used to fight over the thing.. he claimed it as "his machine" one time, and i was like "the **** it is" and walked over and took it LOL.. they are made by ESAB, Its an older machine, But they are well built, and In my opinion are nicer than alot of the newer millers within the past 5-10 years.. Ive seen them for between 500-700 around here, I found one for about 300 so i am definitely going to pick it up as a spare machine. Or maybe to even replace my systematics.

Our supplier had been trying for years to convince us the machine was dying and on its last legs, and that we should just buy a new miller machine. before it died.. but it kept on going. Always worked amazing.

heres a link to one i found on google just to give you an idea:

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=194476

jwillie000 · 09-28-2009, 11:29 PM

wow it looks like a fossil. ill take a look around but im not dumping any money into that. thanks

jwillie000 · 09-28-2009, 11:32 PM

just found a 250 for 650 but where do you buy parts for this thing?

AssDragginSdime · 09-29-2009, 01:11 AM

any good welding supplier should be able to get you the consumables and what not. I go thru airgas. i have a 30+yr old systematics machine and i dont have any trouble getting stuff for it. as far as like drive rollers and what not, if you wanted to go with a smaller wire size, such as .023 or whatever, You might be assed out. but your basic consumables shouldnt be an issue to get.

04-23-2008, 07:53 PM	#51
tennerv8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 547 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! I'd like to but I tig stainless and aluminum at work not mild steel.
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-23-2008, 09:58 PM	#52
low-s-dime yeah yer mom liked it Age: 28 Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 3,432 Location: dirty jerz User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by tennerv8 I'd like to but I tig stainless and aluminum at work not mild steel. i hear ya...i tig all kinds of shit at work...mainly stainless and carbon steel...sa/a 105 wcb and 316/316lss along with cf8m cast stainless
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-23-2008, 10:02 PM	#53
tennerv8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 547 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime i hear ya...i tig all kinds of shit at work...mainly stainless and carbon steel...sa/a 105 wcb and 316/316lss along with cf8m cast stainless Do you have problems with your eyes at work when you tig? The puddle plays with my eyes sometimes. Like my vision gets spotty. Only at higher amps. Only on long straits.
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-23-2008, 11:48 PM	#54
low-s-dime yeah yer mom liked it Age: 28 Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 3,432 Location: dirty jerz User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by tennerv8 Do you have problems with your eyes at work when you tig? The puddle plays with my eyes sometimes. Like my vision gets spotty. Only at higher amps. Only on long straits. nah, but i have been having issues with pure tungsten...it doesnt like to behave when starting an arc
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 09:14 AM	#55
tennerv8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 547 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime nah, but i have been having issues with pure tungsten...it doesnt like to behave when starting an arc How are you sharpening your tungsten? What do you use?
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 09:47 PM	#56
low-s-dime yeah yer mom liked it Age: 28 Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 3,432 Location: dirty jerz User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right?
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 11:04 PM	#57
sadexcuse4s10 Hoods are overrated Age: 26 Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 11,523 Location: Lexington, NC User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! build the 2X3 1/4" thick frame for my stockfloored '86 with a Miller 135. lets just say that i'd easily die in the wreck before the frame would bend
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 11:32 PM	#58
tennerv8 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 547 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right? If you sharpen your tungsten horizontally the electrons will shoot out the sides of the tungsten and create an erratic arc. If that makes sense. If there are horizontall "grooves" in the tungsten the electrons will shoot away from the work. If your grooves are vertically, the electrons will be directed and attracted to the tip of your tungsten. Grooves from sharpening that is. If that makes sense. Hard to explain on a keyboard
	[Reply w/Quote]

04-24-2008, 11:39 PM	#59
low-s-dime yeah yer mom liked it Age: 28 Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 3,432 Location: dirty jerz User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! yep, only vertical
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-12-2008, 11:32 AM	#60
TUCNRIM88 Registered User Age: 34 Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,645 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! I Have A Miller 175 At My Shop A Lincoln 135 At Home My Brother Has The Lincoln 175 At The Farm Now My 135 Was Second Hand So It Might Be Why I Think This But In My Opinion The 135 Does Not Weld Over 1/4 Really Good Could Be That Its Old The Lincoln 175 Rocks On All Heavy But I Cant Seem To Dial It In For Sheet Metal The Damn Miller 175 That Everyone Tells Me They Hate Will Weld Everything I Use It For Im Not A Welder We Have Certified Welders Next Door To Us After Seeing Them Weld And Gusset Things I Have No Idea How At Least Thee Of My Trucks Did Not Break In Half Or Maybe They Just Dont Need To Be That Strong They Do Heavy Equipment Over There
	[Reply w/Quote]

05-12-2008, 12:23 PM	#61
jcrazyjj <3's EDM Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 815 Location: Shelby Twp, MI User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by TUCNRIM88 I Have A Miller 175 At My Shop A Lincoln 135 At Home My Brother Has The Lincoln 175 At The Farm Now My 135 Was Second Hand So It Might Be Why I Think This But In My Opinion The 135 Does Not Weld Over 1/4 Really Good Could Be That Its Old The Lincoln 175 Rocks On All Heavy But I Cant Seem To Dial It In For Sheet Metal The Damn Miller 175 That Everyone Tells Me They Hate Will Weld Everything I Use It For Im Not A Welder We Have Certified Welders Next Door To Us After Seeing Them Weld And Gusset Things I Have No Idea How At Least Thee Of My Trucks Did Not Break In Half Or Maybe They Just Dont Need To Be That Strong They Do Heavy Equipment Over There or it could be because its pushing 40 less amps and does have the power to get good penetration on the thicker stuff. the absolute thickest id weld with the 135 is 3/16, and thats pushing it. if you have the option use the 175 for ANYTHING structural. itll get you more heat, more penetration therefore a safer weld.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 05:02 PM	#62
npa4863 Registered User Age: 17 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 11 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! my dad was really good with a stick welder but with the mig we got he cant even do simple body work. its a pain cuz i get to bond-o it and when i get almost finished it brakes off. i ot to start checking them with a hammer.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-15-2008, 05:09 AM	#63
DFitty Mr. Top Secret Age: 20 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 3,828 Location: With Ur Mom User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by sadexcuse4s10 if your hobart died becuase you passed the duty cycle too many times, that's your own fault man mine sure does weld 1/4" in a single pass and it's only a 125 amp machine, and naturally, I obey the duty cycle and don't run the piss out of it with thicker stuff if you'll use it like it's intended and not crank the amps as high as possible and try to build a full frame in a day you'll be fine and you won't kill the welder i almost completed a full frame in a day with my hobart 187..idk even know what the DC is haha. it never shut off tho and i worked the shit out of it that weekend,i love my hobart lol. but i do need a new gun is anyone knows where i can get one.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-22-2008, 05:12 PM	#64
94 SS S10 4.3 94 S10 355 Tremec Age: 26 Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 304 Location: NC near Charlotte User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! MIG WELDERS Lincoln SP 180T - $640.00 Range: 30-180 amps Power: 208-230 V Material: 24g - 3/16 in http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003799.htm Hobart IronMan 210 $1099.99 Range: 30-210 amps Power: 208-230 V Material: 22g - 3/8 in http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43550 Miller Millermatic 180 230 $805.00 Range: 30-180 amps Power: 230 V Material: 24g-5/16 in http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003461.htm Miller Millermatic 212 Industrial $1,511.00 Range: 30-210 amps Power: 230 V Material: 22g-3/8 in http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001731.htm Lincoln WeldPak $439.00 Range: 25-135a Power: 115v Material: up to 5/16 in http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...y=Kannapo lis These are the best MIG welders that I have found so far. It seems to give the best options and best range for the money and project possibilities. I am understanding a lot more about welding from the links I have been given by Eric (Wildside). Check his Sticky for more info: http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8860
	[Reply w/Quote]

01-06-2009, 01:07 AM	#65
idragbodys10 Registered User Age: 25 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 2,673 Location: Akron, Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! whats everyone suggest for a tig?
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-03-2009, 03:40 PM	#66
DRANGED Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! I am going to buy a mig welder in 2 weeks! I am wondering if the welder at home depot for $360 is the one I need to shave handles and fill in the tailgate? I want to spend $400 total. I am looking for suggestions on which welder to get.
	[Reply w/Quote]

02-03-2009, 04:10 PM	#67
jcrazyjj <3's EDM Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 815 Location: Shelby Twp, MI User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! as long as said welder can be switched over to solid core wire and not flux then it should be fine. i dont suggest trying to shave anything using flux core.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-31-2009, 12:50 AM	#68
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! would this be two much to work on my truck sheet metal and frame?http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2GPK2
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-03-2009, 12:27 AM	#69
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! bump?
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-03-2009, 01:02 AM	#70
DFitty Mr. Top Secret Age: 20 Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 3,828 Location: With Ur Mom User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! those DVI millers are badass. it will work great for what ya wanna do man.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-12-2009, 01:52 AM	#71
350X Matt Smith Age: 37 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 318 Location: NW Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds. Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time. Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in. Save $100+ there. Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds. The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on. Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic. Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-12-2009, 03:21 PM	#72
jcrazyjj <3's EDM Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 815 Location: Shelby Twp, MI User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by 350X One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds. Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time. Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in. Save $100+ there. Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds. The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on. Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic. Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool.
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-12-2009, 05:13 PM	#73
350X Matt Smith Age: 37 Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 318 Location: NW Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by jcrazyjj That stranger in the park had more then just candy in his pocket huh?
	[Reply w/Quote]

09-18-2009, 12:36 AM	#74
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by low-s-dime dedicated bench grinder, i hold the electrode vertical and spin on a hard wheel then i use the other wheel which is super hard to do a final dress, only sometimes do i do the final. it balls nicely for a/c but for stainless steel and carbon steel it sometimes has trouble starting the arc, so i gotta touch start kinda...weird right? yea i had the same issues with pure tungsten on a syncrowave 180sd. I dont like pure tungsten for steel. 2% thoriated is the way to go with dc welding. Pure tungsten tends to burn up fast under DC than 2% thoriated anyway. Im not sure exactly why it does it, But i defintiely have to scratch start with pure tungsten.
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09-18-2009, 12:40 AM	#75
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! Quote: Originally Posted by 350X One cheap badazz mother here. I use it for pleasure and my part time business. Many many years so far of great welds. Only addition was installing a cooling fan for unlimited weld time. Only thing different then the pricier one, it has a fan built in. Save $100+ there. Have done it all from ubar thin to thick and it makes strong welds. The 3 headlight wagon in the background there, the left front shock is only held on with welds from said machine. Nothing else holds it on. Boxing supension parts on my 3rd gen fbody, is what I was doing in that pic. Also try it yourself but HF flux core wire is the cheapest and best, barium free and multi pass wire. [no stoping between passes to get a good weld.] Tried the pricy brands, didn't work as well and just cost more. I get it on a 10lb spool. any welder that has a switch for its heat setting.. i'll pass lol
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09-25-2009, 11:26 PM	#76
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! anybody know anthing about Century welders. i found a big one for 700 the other day
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09-26-2009, 01:09 PM	#77
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! they are cheap machines. im sure they work but parts are not going to be stocked everywhere, so IF you have an issue.. It might become more of a headache than its worth. Personally for $700 if you look around you can find a millermatic for that much. you can find a good 200 or larger machine for $500 easy. I sold a millermatic 250 about a year ago for like 800 or 900. And have since seen them from $450 and up.
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09-28-2009, 12:40 AM	#78
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! any body think a miller vintage is worth 1000? it looks well used.
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09-28-2009, 03:39 AM	#79
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! nah. When i bought my millermatic 250, it was either the vintage or the 250, both were used, The vintage was bout $650-700, and the 250 was like 850-900 i think i paid. Both were being sold by a welding supply dealer, and not a private party, so it wasnt like i had just found a guy who didnt know what he had... Its a good machine, dont get me wrong. I dont like how it has a rotary switch instead of a pot for your voltage selector tho, which is why i went with the 250.
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09-28-2009, 05:46 PM	#80
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! if you want to find an EXCELLENT EXCELLENT mig welder for your money... Look for a Linde L-tec 225. I have one im keeping my eye on a few miles from me that im probably going to pick up over the next week or two for about $300.. I used one of these extensively over the past 3 years at my last job. The machine looks like shit.. Looks like a pile of crap.. But some of the most beautiful looking welds i have ever produced came from that machine. We had millers for days.. millermatic 250,300,and 350p machines.. All were great, But to be 100% honest, when there was a choice of machines for me to use for the day.. i always used the linde whenever i could. lol me and my boss used to fight over the thing.. he claimed it as "his machine" one time, and i was like "the **** it is" and walked over and took it LOL.. they are made by ESAB, Its an older machine, But they are well built, and In my opinion are nicer than alot of the newer millers within the past 5-10 years.. Ive seen them for between 500-700 around here, I found one for about 300 so i am definitely going to pick it up as a spare machine. Or maybe to even replace my systematics. Our supplier had been trying for years to convince us the machine was dying and on its last legs, and that we should just buy a new miller machine. before it died.. but it kept on going. Always worked amazing. heres a link to one i found on google just to give you an idea: http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=194476
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09-28-2009, 11:29 PM	#81
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! wow it looks like a fossil. ill take a look around but im not dumping any money into that. thanks
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09-28-2009, 11:32 PM	#82
jwillie000 she will lay one day Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 816 Location: lynchburg va User is: Online	Re: THE welder comparo! just found a 250 for 650 but where do you buy parts for this thing?
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09-29-2009, 01:11 AM	#83
AssDragginSdime **** you Age: 23 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 9,383 Location: from the mean streets of southington, CT User is: OffLine	Re: THE welder comparo! any good welding supplier should be able to get you the consumables and what not. I go thru airgas. i have a 30+yr old systematics machine and i dont have any trouble getting stuff for it. as far as like drive rollers and what not, if you wanted to go with a smaller wire size, such as .023 or whatever, You might be assed out. but your basic consumables shouldnt be an issue to get.
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