2-link construction

[minitruckin911]

I was just curious, before i go down to the steel yard and pick up some 2x2 steel tubbing. Exactly/roughly how thick should the tubbing be. Should it be 3/16 or like 1/4 or either one will do. Or should it be thicker. Thanks.


-Garrett

[DDM]

the 1/4 will do in 2x2 ,but why not make a wish bone 3-link it will only cost ya a couple more dollars? just curious

[slamd98s]

3/16 is going to be fine man... 1/4 is focking huge

[minitruckin911]

thanks guys.

[minitruckin911]

WOW I just got back form the steel yard and picked up some 2x2 steel tubbing, i would of liked to go with 3/16, but they didnt have any to i had to go with 1/4 this stuff is beefy, when i say beefy im not exagerating either, i couldnt believe how thick the stuff really was.

[02sonoma]

thats what i used in my 2 link and i havnt had a problem with bending or anything.

[minitruckin911]

I guess that was the better way to go was with the 1/4 instead 3/16. 02sonoma i see that you are from norfolk, my friend keavin (greenwenvy) just went down there for college at ATI he has the green ls extended cab bagged in the front and lowered in the rear with the smooth rims.

[minitruckin911]

i have another question about welding up the two link, since it is 1/4 and im ordering the bar ends form jason and i think they are 3/16 thick, what kind of welder would work best to for this. Wire, Arc, etc.... THanks

[LaidHombre]

Quote: Originally Posted by minitruckin911

i have another question about welding up the two link, since it is 1/4 and im ordering the bar ends form jason and i think they are 3/16 thick, what kind of welder would work best to for this. Wire, Arc, etc.... THanks

As far as welding 1/4 to 3/16, thats not a problem. A mig would be the best bet to weld it up, and to get proper penetration in a single pass(especially with limited welding experience) you should use at least a 175 amp unit. Welders ratings as to what they are capable of welding are unfortunately exaggerated, and many 135 amp versions "claim" they can weld 1/4 to 5/16 or even 3/8 in a single pass-they cannot do it, even for an experienced weldor. Use the right welder, and if your not comfortable with welding heavy stock for your chassis, pay an experience weldor a few bucks to weld it up. Good luck!

[minitruckin911]

thanks for the advice laidhombre. Yeah if i dont feel comfortable doing it then i will most likely have my friends dad do it, he works wonders with a welder and metal. Thanks again

[LaidHombre]

Quote: Originally Posted by minitruckin911

thanks for the advice laidhombre. Yeah if i dont feel comfortable doing it then i will most likely have my friends dad do it, he works wonders with a welder and metal. Thanks again

Thats cool man, plus watch him work, ask some questions, even better put on a welding helmet and watch as he welds. Its a great way to learn, and will help you to watch his puddle as he welds. I've always learned best from watching, he'll be a great source of help for sure. good luck

[alteredimage]

Actually any size welder can weld any size metal. just need to bevel the edges so you get good penetration and start laying the beads in.

[sadexcuse4s10]

I'm running stock 205-70-15 bagged on monoleaf right now, I'm wanting to build a 2 link as well, what should the measurements be for the 2 bars, from spring eyelet bolt to the pin that goes through the bars for my blocks/u-bolt plates

[minitruckin911]

i read on here that it should be roughly around 25inchs. But i wasnt sure what the measurements should have been so i just went down to the steel yard and got 30inch 2x2 box tubbing i got it a little longer so i would have some room to play with.

[neh]

Quote: Originally Posted by alteredimage

Actually any size welder can weld any size metal. just need to bevel the edges so you get good penetration and start laying the beads in.

and you can use a dremel to cut 3/4" plate

[LaidHombre]

Quote: Originally Posted by neh

and you can use a dremel to cut 3/4" plate

As well as weld and fully penetrate the plate with a 90 Amp 110Volt mig

[neh]

:thumbup: someone on the internet said it so it must be true

[alteredimage]

Quote: Originally Posted by neh

and you can use a dremel to cut 3/4" plate

The process is quite simple not like cutting that plate with a dremel. You think in the construction industry they get a welder that has 1,000 amps to weld a 4' plate NO they bevel it and run a root pass they folow with multiple passes to get the bevel filled and almost flush then finish it off with a cap. The cap is determined by the weld procedure it is concave, flat or convex. I was making a statment that one doesn't need to spend a fortune on a welder if it used properly. You can only get so big of a welding wire/rod. Do you know what the rule of thumb is for a bead width? For stick it is 3 times the diameter of the rod ( not flux) and with an inert gas it is no larger than the cup size.

[neh]

no ****ing shit they bevel. thanks for the theory lesson, I sure didn't know that before

Just because you can weld any size metal with any size welder doesn't make it the right tool for the job. Otherwise we would be using 110v migs in pipelining and construction

You say that you don't need to have a really expensive welder if you use it properly. True, but do you think anyone that goes on a s10 forum asking what kind to buy has the knowledge to do so? You get two types of people here, someone who wants to learn how to weld (maybe for a career) and is trying to get started, and the other is someone who wants to do a couple things and then never use it again. The first type shouldn't even waste their time with a small welder because they'll outgrow it quickly. So your comment appeals to the second who now believe that a home depot welder will do their framework even when they have no idea how to do it properly.