So you want to relocate your clutch master cylinder but find the stock plastic line is holding you back?
Hereâ€™s a simple way around that which will allow you to swap over to a -3 line. I faced this problem after damaging my factory clutch line. I went to the dealership and they said they do not sell the line separately. I took this opportunity to research a fitting that would allow me to change over to an â€śANâ€ť style fitting. I figured this would also be a great time to help others in their quest to relocate their clutch master for laying on big wheels and or body droppin. This set up cost me around $60
Time to locate the fittings. Youâ€™ll have to find these Russell fittings, part # 640281. They are labeled as, â€śClutch fittings with quad rings: Chrysler/Jeep #3AN male flareâ€ť
(Note; I ordered these from Summit racing and spent $20.39 + handling. I had to wait about a month and a half as these fittings fittings were on back order. Through my research Iâ€™ve found others using these and others saying they are always on backorder, so PLAN AHEAD)
If you have an older style slave such as the one posted below youâ€™ll be fine, and lucky since these are externally mounted. This slave is going on my 94 S10 4cyl. Hereâ€™s a new slave, roll pin and the Russell fitting.
Push the fitting in and youâ€™ll need to push hard, maybe use a vise to just apply enough pressure to compress the rubber seal allowing you to press in the roll pin. I also added a cotter pin for extra safety so the roll pin can not work its way out. Iâ€™m sure this is not needed, but it wonâ€™t hurt.
Donâ€™t have a externally mounted slave? Well youâ€™ll need to pull the transmission to access your slave which contains the throw out bearing as well. These are surely an interesting unit. Youâ€™ll need to remove the slave unit with the 2 10mm bolts and remove the line. If you have trouble getting the line off, simply tap out the roll pin and remove the slave unit. Also use a pick to remove the rubber o-ring if it does not come out.
Hereâ€™s a comparison of the Russell fitting and the fitting that was in the slave unit.
(Note; I do not have a picture of the fitting in this slave since Iâ€™m not using this slave. I had it laying around and took it apart to compare and show the fittings are the same)
Now on to the clutch master cylinder. Just like the rest of the parts youâ€™ll need to remove the stock roll pin and line. Make sure to use a small pick and remove the rubber o-ring as they seem to want to stay in.
Comparison between the Russell fitting and the stock line/fitting.
Youâ€™ll need to press the fitting into the clutch master enough to compress the rubber o-ring and press the roll pin in. Again I added a cotter pin to keep the roll pin safe.
So there you have it. Youâ€™ve pressed in both of your fittings and can now swap over to a -3 line.
There are companies such as Russell, Good Ridge, Earlâ€™s, and Nitrous companies that offer pre-made lines to certain lengths with straight, 45* and 90* fittings or you can make your own as they supply -3 fittings and line. Youâ€™ll have to do some searching around. Try Summit Racing and Jegs for starters. They tend to carry a lot of these products.
I personally found a Russell line at Summit. Part # 658190 which is, â€śUniv Stnls Hose Asmbly -3AN 4Ft, 90* to straight.($27.99 from Summit Racing)