Clutch master Line replacement!

RacerXS10 · 08-08-2008, 09:28 PM

So you want to relocate your clutch master cylinder but find the stock plastic line is holding you back?

Here’s a simple way around that which will allow you to swap over to a -3 line. I faced this problem after damaging my factory clutch line. I went to the dealership and they said they do not sell the line separately. I took this opportunity to research a fitting that would allow me to change over to an “AN” style fitting. I figured this would also be a great time to help others in their quest to relocate their clutch master for laying on big wheels and or body droppin. This set up cost me around $60

1. Time to locate the fittings. You’ll have to find these Russell fittings, part # 640281. They are labeled as, “Clutch fittings with quad rings: Chrysler/Jeep #3AN male flare”
(Note; I ordered these from Summit racing and spent $20.39 + handling. I had to wait about a month and a half as these fittings fittings were on back order. Through my research I’ve found others using these and others saying they are always on backorder, so PLAN AHEAD)

2. If you have an older style slave such as the one posted below you’ll be fine, and lucky since these are externally mounted. This slave is going on my 94 S10 4cyl. Here’s a new slave, roll pin and the Russell fitting.

3. Push the fitting in and you’ll need to push hard, maybe use a vise to just apply enough pressure to compress the rubber seal allowing you to press in the roll pin. I also added a cotter pin for extra safety so the roll pin can not work its way out. I’m sure this is not needed, but it won’t hurt.

4. Don’t have a externally mounted slave? Well you’ll need to pull the transmission to access your slave which contains the throw out bearing as well. These are surely an interesting unit. You’ll need to remove the slave unit with the 2 10mm bolts and remove the line. If you have trouble getting the line off, simply tap out the roll pin and remove the slave unit. Also use a pick to remove the rubber o-ring if it does not come out.

5. Here’s a comparison of the Russell fitting and the fitting that was in the slave unit.
(Note; I do not have a picture of the fitting in this slave since I’m not using this slave. I had it laying around and took it apart to compare and show the fittings are the same)

6. Now on to the clutch master cylinder. Just like the rest of the parts you’ll need to remove the stock roll pin and line. Make sure to use a small pick and remove the rubber o-ring as they seem to want to stay in.

7. Comparison between the Russell fitting and the stock line/fitting.

8. You’ll need to press the fitting into the clutch master enough to compress the rubber o-ring and press the roll pin in. Again I added a cotter pin to keep the roll pin safe.

9. So there you have it. You’ve pressed in both of your fittings and can now swap over to a -3 line.

10. There are companies such as Russell, Good Ridge, Earl’s, and Nitrous companies that offer pre-made lines to certain lengths with straight, 45* and 90* fittings or you can make your own as they supply -3 fittings and line. You’ll have to do some searching around. Try Summit Racing and Jegs for starters. They tend to carry a lot of these products.

I personally found a Russell line at Summit. Part # 658190 which is, “Univ Stnls Hose Asmbly -3AN 4Ft, 90* to straight.($27.99 from Summit Racing)

jeffery_843 · 08-08-2008, 10:19 PM

This needs to be a sticky. its very helpful even if your not body dropped. i know a lot of people's line gets effed up and then you have to buy a whole new set up just to get another line.

***orangesonoma*** · 08-08-2008, 10:32 PM

woot!

RacerXS10 · 08-09-2008, 07:16 AM

I didn't know where to put this info. There was a thread in here a while back. I wrote it up as a how-to kinda thing. I know most people body dropping could use this as well as the baggin guys. Any mods, feel free to move it if needed.

PunkDime99 · 08-09-2008, 08:14 PM

jeff pullin through again!!!

idropem96 · 08-10-2008, 01:06 AM

that helps me out so much. i moved my clutch under my dash and have been tryin to figure out what to do for a line. too bad for me though mine is a 96, so I guess i'll be pullin the tranny. great post

RacerXS10 · 08-10-2008, 08:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by idropem96

that helps me out so much. i moved my clutch under my dash and have been tryin to figure out what to do for a line. too bad for me though mine is a 96, so I guess i'll be pullin the tranny. great post

If you really think you'll be doing this, I suggest you go ahead and get the fittings ordered. Summit shows them in stock and I waited over a month for mine. Then at least you have them. Dropping the tranny isn't all that horrible. Gives you a reason to change tranny fluid and inspect the clutch as well as get some new fluid through the clutch hydrolics.

Baggedconversion · 08-10-2008, 08:50 PM

bad ass mod, i melted the plastic line after i put my headder on, and now that i have the one tied back it seems like the lines pinched, a deffinate must....

NikeCheck246 · 08-10-2008, 11:50 PM

i have a 99 4-cyl...i havent been under my truck in a long time, but if im not mistaken, it has an external slave, correct? i would do anything not to have to pull that transmission

***AVTekk*** · 08-11-2008, 02:29 AM

good info indeed, but if you have a hose shop local, you can bring them the stock fittings and they can crimp on a stainless braided line. you would have to cut the plastic off them, underneath is just a barb fitting like any other.

RacerXS10 · 08-11-2008, 07:29 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk

good info indeed, but if you have a hose shop local, you can bring them the stock fittings and they can crimp on a stainless braided line. you would have to cut the plastic off them, underneath is just a barb fitting like any other.

I thought about that but I some how messed one of the fittings up so I decided to look into this.

NikeCheck246- Most likely you have the newer style. That one I pictured was off a 97 4cyl tranny.

2Lo4aFatHoe · 08-12-2008, 10:00 PM

El Heffe Watson, have i told you lately....that i love you?

***98layinframe*** · 08-16-2008, 07:59 PM

most useful thread ive seen in here for months!!!! This is extremely helpful for alot of us! Love the idea of going to a braided line with AN fittings on it!

Draggin97 · 08-17-2008, 01:22 AM

Nice write up, I too have just used hydraulic hose and hose clamps. It worked out fine, you just have to reuse the stock fittings and get a hose thats the same size of ID as the fittings.

RacerXS10 · 08-17-2008, 12:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 98layinframe

most useful thread ive seen in here for months!!!! This is extremely helpful for alot of us! Love the idea of going to a braided line with AN fittings on it!

Thanks. There was a thread a while back and I had seen these fittings while searching around. I ran into a problem with my line and decided to try it. Sure enough it worked great.

I agree as well to reusing the stock fittings and taking it to a hydrolic hose shop for some new line or something crimped onto those.

Its all about options and what will be easier for each application and person.

jeffery_843 · 08-17-2008, 01:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NikeCheck246

i have a 99 4-cyl...i havent been under my truck in a long time, but if im not mistaken, it has an external slave, correct? i would do anything not to have to pull that transmission

i have a '98 4 cyl. and it has the one on the transmission shaft. it looks weird as hell. i was like, where the hells the slave cylinder.

***DJDAudio*** · 08-17-2008, 05:00 PM

hell frickin yea

jherrell · 08-18-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jeffery_843

i have a '98 4 cyl. and it has the one on the transmission shaft. it looks weird as hell. i was like, where the hells the slave cylinder.

the fitting on the end of the 98+ clutch line is similar to a fuel line connector... I know my buddy has a Summit Part # that will work with a -3an hose for this exact conversion

***DJDAudio*** · 08-18-2008, 09:50 PM

Everyone Rep this man!

Don't forget the 'Rate me ' feature.

BrianBlocks · 08-18-2008, 10:13 PM

thanks jeff, great info!

RacerXS10 · 08-18-2008, 10:35 PM

I started looking into some things. On the newer style slave thats mounted inside the tranny. The Gold tube appears to be some kind of check valve and or orfice. Theres no way I can test if this works. In my searching I haven't found any info reguarding this. LS1 and LT1 guys were doing these types of set ups and I do believe they have a similar slave. I have no idea if eliminateing this part will cause issues. If I had extra time, I'd rip down my tranny on my other truck and try. But way too many projects

Some other info I've found is a company called, www.mcleodind.com lists some fittings that are similar to the Russell, but bigger and or 90*. They list these 3 which I've referenced from another forum,
139026 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN4 MALE STRAIGHT
139027 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN4 MALE ELBO
139028 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN3 MALE ELBO

The last part number should be a 90 which could be helpful for those needing a tight bend off the master.

The 2 part numbers above were listed in a forum and this picture was added.
(Picture taken from this thread, http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606483)

These 2 fittings use -4 line. BUT were said to cost $45 EACH!

dawgnutz · 10-03-2008, 01:56 PM

Wow! Thanks man! My slave was getting really shady as of late. May hav eto order these now and get a head start on the rebuild!

rrray88sdime · 10-03-2008, 05:07 PM

i went thru 3 or 4 of those damn plastic lines, and Racerx10 is right, GM doesnt sell the plastic line by itself, you gotta buy a whole new clutch amster cyylinder which is 150 i believe. im def gonna have to invest in this cause im still skeptical about the damn line melting from the exhaust heat. even after i wrapped the exhaust and the clutch line in header wrap. great write up thanks a bunch

J.Cakes · 10-03-2008, 05:22 PM

^^^^^i have never melted my clutch line, even when i ran an open exhaust manifold

shautgun · 10-03-2008, 10:46 PM

I recently replaced my slave cylinder. I couldnt get the transmission to line back up so I had to pull the motor bolt it together and slide them both back in . I really dont want to do that again. i got everything back together truck running pushed it out into the driveway to bleed the clutch and when i was pushing the piece back in where it seperates the damn thing broke. is there anyway I can get that pin out with out pulling everything back out again. any info would help alot i cant seem to get the right angle with anything to get it out. I was thinkming of just putting a coter pin in there to hold the new cylinder in. thanks

RacerXS10 · 10-04-2008, 09:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by shautgun

I recently replaced my slave cylinder. I couldnt get the transmission to line back up so I had to pull the motor bolt it together and slide them both back in . I really dont want to do that again. i got everything back together truck running pushed it out into the driveway to bleed the clutch and when i was pushing the piece back in where it seperates the damn thing broke. is there anyway I can get that pin out with out pulling everything back out again. any info would help alot i cant seem to get the right angle with anything to get it out. I was thinkming of just putting a coter pin in there to hold the new cylinder in. thanks

Theres no way to get in there unless you have the transmission out. As far as the alignment going back up, one thing I found was theres a "pinch" weld that hangs below the firewall into the tranny tunnel that can really mess with you getting the transmission up. Lower the engine a bit and try to get the tranny angle to match. Not sure what you're using to do all of this? By lifting or using a jack.

***Dragginbody*** · 10-26-2008, 04:15 PM

def great info here.

idropem96 · 10-27-2008, 03:06 PM

can anyone explain to me how to take the quick disconnect for the slave cylinder off? I have a 1996 2.2L

RacerXS10 · 10-29-2008, 09:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by idropem96

can anyone explain to me how to take the quick disconnect for the slave cylinder off? I have a 1996 2.2L

From the last time I tried, there is a plastic sleeve that needs to get pushed in towards the slave evenly. Its like a big push to connect fitting. Basically a huge pain. If you're removing the tranny, I'd just remove the master and let it all come down as 1 and remove it then.

NikeCheck246 · 11-04-2008, 02:59 PM

somebody help me out here...i went to my local parker store and they told me there was no way they can do it. whats up with that?

08-08-2008, 09:28 PM	#1
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Clutch master Line replacement! So you want to relocate your clutch master cylinder but find the stock plastic line is holding you back? Here’s a simple way around that which will allow you to swap over to a -3 line. I faced this problem after damaging my factory clutch line. I went to the dealership and they said they do not sell the line separately. I took this opportunity to research a fitting that would allow me to change over to an “AN” style fitting. I figured this would also be a great time to help others in their quest to relocate their clutch master for laying on big wheels and or body droppin. This set up cost me around $60 1. Time to locate the fittings. You’ll have to find these Russell fittings, part # 640281. They are labeled as, “Clutch fittings with quad rings: Chrysler/Jeep #3AN male flare” (Note; I ordered these from Summit racing and spent $20.39 + handling. I had to wait about a month and a half as these fittings fittings were on back order. Through my research I’ve found others using these and others saying they are always on backorder, so PLAN AHEAD) 2. If you have an older style slave such as the one posted below you’ll be fine, and lucky since these are externally mounted. This slave is going on my 94 S10 4cyl. Here’s a new slave, roll pin and the Russell fitting. 3. Push the fitting in and you’ll need to push hard, maybe use a vise to just apply enough pressure to compress the rubber seal allowing you to press in the roll pin. I also added a cotter pin for extra safety so the roll pin can not work its way out. I’m sure this is not needed, but it won’t hurt. 4. Don’t have a externally mounted slave? Well you’ll need to pull the transmission to access your slave which contains the throw out bearing as well. These are surely an interesting unit. You’ll need to remove the slave unit with the 2 10mm bolts and remove the line. If you have trouble getting the line off, simply tap out the roll pin and remove the slave unit. Also use a pick to remove the rubber o-ring if it does not come out. 5. Here’s a comparison of the Russell fitting and the fitting that was in the slave unit. (Note; I do not have a picture of the fitting in this slave since I’m not using this slave. I had it laying around and took it apart to compare and show the fittings are the same) 6. Now on to the clutch master cylinder. Just like the rest of the parts you’ll need to remove the stock roll pin and line. Make sure to use a small pick and remove the rubber o-ring as they seem to want to stay in. 7. Comparison between the Russell fitting and the stock line/fitting. 8. You’ll need to press the fitting into the clutch master enough to compress the rubber o-ring and press the roll pin in. Again I added a cotter pin to keep the roll pin safe. 9. So there you have it. You’ve pressed in both of your fittings and can now swap over to a -3 line. 10. There are companies such as Russell, Good Ridge, Earl’s, and Nitrous companies that offer pre-made lines to certain lengths with straight, 45* and 90* fittings or you can make your own as they supply -3 fittings and line. You’ll have to do some searching around. Try Summit Racing and Jegs for starters. They tend to carry a lot of these products. I personally found a Russell line at Summit. Part # 658190 which is, “Univ Stnls Hose Asmbly -3AN 4Ft, 90* to straight.($27.99 from Summit Racing)
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 10:19 PM	#2
jeffery_843 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 952 Location: sc User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! This needs to be a sticky. its very helpful even if your not body dropped. i know a lot of people's line gets effed up and then you have to buy a whole new set up just to get another line.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 10:32 PM	#3
*orangesonoma* registered s10 sex offender Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 37,742 Location: Indian Trail, NC User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! woot!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 07:16 AM	#4
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! I didn't know where to put this info. There was a thread in here a while back. I wrote it up as a how-to kinda thing. I know most people body dropping could use this as well as the baggin guys. Any mods, feel free to move it if needed.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 08:14 PM	#5
PunkDime99 Trailors Are For Boats! Age: 23 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 623 Location: Certified MASShole User is: Online	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! jeff pullin through again!!!
	[Reply w/Quote]


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08-10-2008, 01:06 AM	#6
idropem96 Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 54 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! that helps me out so much. i moved my clutch under my dash and have been tryin to figure out what to do for a line. too bad for me though mine is a 96, so I guess i'll be pullin the tranny. great post
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2008, 08:36 AM	#7
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by idropem96 that helps me out so much. i moved my clutch under my dash and have been tryin to figure out what to do for a line. too bad for me though mine is a 96, so I guess i'll be pullin the tranny. great post If you really think you'll be doing this, I suggest you go ahead and get the fittings ordered. Summit shows them in stock and I waited over a month for mine. Then at least you have them. Dropping the tranny isn't all that horrible. Gives you a reason to change tranny fluid and inspect the clutch as well as get some new fluid through the clutch hydrolics.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2008, 08:50 PM	#8
Baggedconversion Oh So Low Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 205 Location: West Grove, PA User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! bad ass mod, i melted the plastic line after i put my headder on, and now that i have the one tied back it seems like the lines pinched, a deffinate must....
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-10-2008, 11:50 PM	#9
NikeCheck246 Project FooldU Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 268 Location: Asheville User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! i have a 99 4-cyl...i havent been under my truck in a long time, but if im not mistaken, it has an external slave, correct? i would do anything not to have to pull that transmission
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-11-2008, 07:29 AM	#11
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by AVTekk good info indeed, but if you have a hose shop local, you can bring them the stock fittings and they can crimp on a stainless braided line. you would have to cut the plastic off them, underneath is just a barb fitting like any other. I thought about that but I some how messed one of the fittings up so I decided to look into this. NikeCheck246- Most likely you have the newer style. That one I pictured was off a 97 4cyl tranny.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-12-2008, 10:00 PM	#12
2Lo4aFatHoe NObama Age: 24 Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,885 Location: I'm a Masshole User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! El Heffe Watson, have i told you lately....that i love you?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-17-2008, 01:22 AM	#14
Draggin97 progress is slow for now Age: 25 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,645 Location: lawrence kansas User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Nice write up, I too have just used hydraulic hose and hose clamps. It worked out fine, you just have to reuse the stock fittings and get a hose thats the same size of ID as the fittings.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-17-2008, 12:45 PM	#15
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by 98layinframe most useful thread ive seen in here for months!!!! This is extremely helpful for alot of us! Love the idea of going to a braided line with AN fittings on it! Thanks. There was a thread a while back and I had seen these fittings while searching around. I ran into a problem with my line and decided to try it. Sure enough it worked great. I agree as well to reusing the stock fittings and taking it to a hydrolic hose shop for some new line or something crimped onto those. Its all about options and what will be easier for each application and person.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-17-2008, 01:56 PM	#16
jeffery_843 Registered User Age: 23 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 952 Location: sc User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by NikeCheck246 i have a 99 4-cyl...i havent been under my truck in a long time, but if im not mistaken, it has an external slave, correct? i would do anything not to have to pull that transmission i have a '98 4 cyl. and it has the one on the transmission shaft. it looks weird as hell. i was like, where the hells the slave cylinder.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-18-2008, 12:26 PM	#18
jherrell SLASH - S.I.C. St. Louis Age: 35 Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 1,891 Location: Shiloh, IL User is: Online	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by jeffery_843 i have a '98 4 cyl. and it has the one on the transmission shaft. it looks weird as hell. i was like, where the hells the slave cylinder. the fitting on the end of the 98+ clutch line is similar to a fuel line connector... I know my buddy has a Summit Part # that will work with a -3an hose for this exact conversion
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-18-2008, 10:13 PM	#20
BrianBlocks Masshole Age: 24 Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 264 Location: Western MA User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! thanks jeff, great info!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-18-2008, 10:35 PM	#21
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! I started looking into some things. On the newer style slave thats mounted inside the tranny. The Gold tube appears to be some kind of check valve and or orfice. Theres no way I can test if this works. In my searching I haven't found any info reguarding this. LS1 and LT1 guys were doing these types of set ups and I do believe they have a similar slave. I have no idea if eliminateing this part will cause issues. If I had extra time, I'd rip down my tranny on my other truck and try. But way too many projects Some other info I've found is a company called, www.mcleodind.com lists some fittings that are similar to the Russell, but bigger and or 90. They list these 3 which I've referenced from another forum, 139026 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN4 MALE STRAIGHT 139027 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN4 MALE ELBO 139028 ROLL PIN FITTING MALE TO AN3 MALE ELBO The last part number should be a 90 which could be helpful for those needing a tight bend off the master. The 2 part numbers above were listed in a forum and this picture was added. (Picture taken from this thread, http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606483)* These 2 fittings use -4 line. BUT were said to cost $45 EACH!
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2008, 01:56 PM	#22
dawgnutz The Werk Truck Age: 28 Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,846 Location: Huntington Beach, Ca. User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Wow! Thanks man! My slave was getting really shady as of late. May hav eto order these now and get a head start on the rebuild!
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2008, 05:07 PM	#23
rrray88sdime ohhhh yeahhhhh Age: 20 Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 745 Location: Charlotte(Pineville) NC User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! i went thru 3 or 4 of those damn plastic lines, and Racerx10 is right, GM doesnt sell the plastic line by itself, you gotta buy a whole new clutch amster cyylinder which is 150 i believe. im def gonna have to invest in this cause im still skeptical about the damn line melting from the exhaust heat. even after i wrapped the exhaust and the clutch line in header wrap. great write up thanks a bunch
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2008, 05:22 PM	#24
J.Cakes The way of all flesh Age: 22 Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 13,814 Location: Hell User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! ^^^^^i have never melted my clutch line, even when i ran an open exhaust manifold
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-03-2008, 10:46 PM	#25
shautgun Registered User Age: 26 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 6 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! I recently replaced my slave cylinder. I couldnt get the transmission to line back up so I had to pull the motor bolt it together and slide them both back in . I really dont want to do that again. i got everything back together truck running pushed it out into the driveway to bleed the clutch and when i was pushing the piece back in where it seperates the damn thing broke. is there anyway I can get that pin out with out pulling everything back out again. any info would help alot i cant seem to get the right angle with anything to get it out. I was thinkming of just putting a coter pin in there to hold the new cylinder in. thanks
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-04-2008, 09:31 AM	#26
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by shautgun I recently replaced my slave cylinder. I couldnt get the transmission to line back up so I had to pull the motor bolt it together and slide them both back in . I really dont want to do that again. i got everything back together truck running pushed it out into the driveway to bleed the clutch and when i was pushing the piece back in where it seperates the damn thing broke. is there anyway I can get that pin out with out pulling everything back out again. any info would help alot i cant seem to get the right angle with anything to get it out. I was thinkming of just putting a coter pin in there to hold the new cylinder in. thanks Theres no way to get in there unless you have the transmission out. As far as the alignment going back up, one thing I found was theres a "pinch" weld that hangs below the firewall into the tranny tunnel that can really mess with you getting the transmission up. Lower the engine a bit and try to get the tranny angle to match. Not sure what you're using to do all of this? By lifting or using a jack.
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-27-2008, 03:06 PM	#28
idropem96 Registered User Age: 20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 54 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! can anyone explain to me how to take the quick disconnect for the slave cylinder off? I have a 1996 2.2L
	[Reply w/Quote]

10-29-2008, 09:24 PM	#29
RacerXS10 Wears Black Shirts Age: 26 Join Date: Aug 2001 Posts: 2,265 Location: CT User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! Quote: Originally Posted by idropem96 can anyone explain to me how to take the quick disconnect for the slave cylinder off? I have a 1996 2.2L From the last time I tried, there is a plastic sleeve that needs to get pushed in towards the slave evenly. Its like a big push to connect fitting. Basically a huge pain. If you're removing the tranny, I'd just remove the master and let it all come down as 1 and remove it then.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-04-2008, 02:59 PM	#30
NikeCheck246 Project FooldU Age: 21 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 268 Location: Asheville User is: OffLine	Re: Clutch master Line replacement! somebody help me out here...i went to my local parker store and they told me there was no way they can do it. whats up with that?
	[Reply w/Quote]