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Basic Body Dropping


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Old 08-16-2003, 03:23 PM   #251
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I got it all figured out... I just picked up a Dual Electric Fan at the body shop that they weren't using..Cut 1 off, and Am using the other one, it works GREAT....I couldnt figure out why the truck wouldnt start...But i figured it out now, the Fuel pump is grounded with the tailights- and i did not have that grounded, so i did that and it fires right up! sweeeeeeeet lata!
Old 08-16-2003, 03:25 PM   #252
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whut about if u have headers and your steering column goes between it?! whut kinda probs u gonna have there? -Adam
Old 08-16-2003, 03:28 PM   #253
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Not sure I understand you Diablo...I have a stock header (old school $.10) and THe only problems I had was that my steering rod rubbed on my A-frame a little bit, and that plastic cover on the front of it by the steering box interfeared, but I got all that out of the way!
Old 08-16-2003, 03:29 PM   #254
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I gotta 350 man.. with the shorty headers.
Old 09-15-2003, 06:08 PM   #255
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so you can't have it sit on the ground without body dropping it?
Old 09-15-2003, 08:57 PM   #256
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U can lay frame which is about 3 1/2-4 inches of the body being off the ground. Or if u have ground fx then u can lay the gound fx flat on the ground which is a fake body drop but makes it look killer laying flat on the ground.
Old 09-15-2003, 10:59 PM   #257
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Quote:
Originally posted by NCHEVYHEVN
if u have ground fx then u can lay the gound fx flat on the ground which is a fake body drop but makes it look killer laying flat on the ground.
I wouldn't say it's a fake body drop, but I'll agree fully with the last part. it does look killer with no space between the ground and the body.
Old 09-17-2003, 03:40 AM   #258
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wheres the best place to make the cut between the firewall and the door? anyone have pics? its the only area i'm not sure where to cut exactly, do you want to cut RIGHT where the floor and the wall meets? and where did everyone cut the firewall? i'm pulling the dash..oh on a first gen 2.8 5spd if tthat matters.
Old 09-18-2003, 11:48 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally posted by Got_20s
I wouldn't say it's a fake body drop, but I'll agree fully with the last part. it does look killer with no space between the ground and the body.
Thats what all the xtreme owners said. "Its a fake body drop"
Old 09-18-2003, 11:59 AM   #260
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Quote:
Originally posted by clean n low
wheres the best place to make the cut between the firewall and the door? anyone have pics? its the only area i'm not sure where to cut exactly, do you want to cut RIGHT where the floor and the wall meets? and where did everyone cut the firewall? i'm pulling the dash..oh on a first gen 2.8 5spd if tthat matters.
Follow the link "naked pictures of your sister" Somewhere near the back you might find something you can use. Although it's not a first gen.
Old 09-18-2003, 12:00 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally posted by NCHEVYHEVN
Thats what all the xtreme owners said. "Its a fake body drop"
Next time you hear them say that, tell them it's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. They are ground effects.
Old 09-18-2003, 12:11 PM   #262
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Originally posted by Got_20s
Next time you hear them say that, tell them it's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. They are ground effects.
Yes sir
Old 10-15-2003, 08:11 PM   #263
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i have an 85, standard cab short box, 2.8 with a manual, has a 4 speed but i want a 5 speed, so if anyone has one i need it. anyway, let me get this right. i need to body drop my truck 3.25" if i already have it laying frame to get it to lay flat out hard with no pinch moldings (they be ugly). and when i cut the floor outa the cab, i measure 3.25" up the fire wall i go with the angle of the fire wall _/ not up from the floor _|/ and over. what gauge metal do i use for my filler pieces. what size wire you guys using in ur migs for shaving stuff and for those filler pieces. is my 2.8 gonna fit under my stock hood with that drop. i dont want a hole, i dont want a cowl. i might be able to settle with a cowl. but to me a cowl hood wood represent a little more then a 2.8 under the hood. if it doesnt fit what do i need to do to make it fit under the hood. thanx.
Old 10-16-2003, 08:36 AM   #264
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First thing Bradman You measure up from the floor like this _| and transfer your mark over onto the angled firewall. Secondly, if your hood won't close you can always try lowering the motor mounts. The rest of the questions someone else will have to help you with.
Old 10-16-2003, 04:04 PM   #265
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1/8" sheet metal is what i used for filler plates. .35 wire. going to have to cut a hole in the hood or get a cowl if you dont lower the motor mounts like got20s said. I think you need 3.5" to lay also, thats how much i took my first gen down.

LOL sounds like i have the same exact truck as you but mines a long bed. Beware of the clutch master cylinder...driverside firewall is a bit tricky too, i cut mine low the filled with filler plates.
Old 10-17-2003, 01:48 AM   #266
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hey, whatever it takes, what makes it tricky on the driver side, be more specific. and could someone clear up weather its 3.5 or 3.25 to lay rocker (not pinch weld). how do i lower the motor mounts? thanks alot guys.
Old 10-17-2003, 01:50 AM   #267
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3.5
Old 10-17-2003, 01:51 AM   #268
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if you ever saw bankrupt, he was body droped to the rockers, had the 2.8 with a manual. and was layin hard with the stock hood. so its gotta be possible, ill have to take a close look at the pictures.
Old 10-17-2003, 01:54 AM   #269
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naw, the pics dont tell me jack.
Old 10-17-2003, 01:59 AM   #270
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but the article says they did a 3.25" bd and the pinch welds are shaved but in the pic its just a tad off the ground, not exactly laying hard like i said. so the 1/4" must make the difference taking it to 3.5 and it must sit hard on them after that.
Old 10-17-2003, 08:23 AM   #271
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I'm not sure what the motor mount on a 2.8 looks like, but here is mine. You can see where it was cut by the bead of weld. It was moved down and inch and then welded back together.



Draggintoy on here did them. In fact he and his partner, did the body drop on mine.
Old 10-17-2003, 05:26 PM   #272
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couldnt you just lay the truck out, cut the floor out, drop the cab down so its flat on the ground, and then weld it all back up. instead of measuring and lowering it on jack and all that bullshit. cause if you mess up that measurment it wont lay flat and you would have to redo everything
Old 10-18-2003, 11:36 PM   #273
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Bradman123
if ur truck and ur floor aint level then ur really ****ed worse. i asked the same question, but that was before i knew how to do it, just got to remembr to measure several times and cut once.
Old 10-18-2003, 11:41 PM   #274
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Got_20s, wouldnt the driveline angles change once you lowered the motor mounts?
Old 10-19-2003, 12:17 AM   #275
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then i was lookin at another forum you posted in where a guy wanted to lay frame on 20s. i think 20s are the way to go cuz it fills up the fenderwell. and looks better when aired up. i want 20s, lay frame, then a body drop to the rockers. since mine is a 1st gen, what problems will i come across. i know you said something to him about if he had a 5 speed then hes crewed. but on the 1st gen its all different.
Old 10-19-2003, 04:25 AM   #276
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your going to have to tub it, and do alot of werk to the frame/a-arms to lay out and also have fun with the clutch master cylinder.
Old 10-19-2003, 09:17 AM   #277
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yaya so the master cylinder is a b*tch, but thats why i started this project. to solve the problems and fabricate one of the most bad ass rides out there. i aint gonna chickin out cuz some lil ol master cylinder. whats the talk of ball joints. i've read some stuff that mentions kotic customs or somethin that has special ball joints. so ur saying with the frame and A arms i just need to look at the places that are hitting and keeping it from going down and cut, test, cut, test until it lays out. i can do that.
Old 10-20-2003, 09:24 AM   #278
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Yes it changes the drive line angle but nothing major.

You could use your cut stock uppers and lowers and k-otics cut ball joints or get ART tubulars.
Old 10-21-2003, 12:10 AM   #279
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where can i get some info on these ball joints and where do i cut the stock upper and lower arms. thanks for ur help. hope you can stay patient with me.
Old 10-21-2003, 10:52 AM   #280
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The site, www.k-otickustomz.com doesn't seem to be working right now, but you can always use email. yulokndwn@aol.com
Old 10-22-2003, 09:55 AM   #281
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wheelbarrow, nice. when you do a body drop do you have to remove everything from the engine compartment also?
Old 10-22-2003, 09:57 AM   #282
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The site k-otickustomz.com will be down until we find someone else to take it over. I have to much on my plate right now....
Old 10-22-2003, 09:58 AM   #283
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Give eric a call @ 609-352-2845
Old 10-22-2003, 10:10 AM   #284
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has any one done a stock floor body drop on a 1st gen i need some in put
Old 10-27-2003, 09:20 PM   #285
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im wondering how much it cost to do a body drop
Old 10-28-2003, 02:54 AM   #286
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Its cheap as fock, if you got the knowledge, but expensive if you have to pay
Old 11-16-2003, 03:14 PM   #287
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im am wondering if ne one has ne input on how to shorten or fix the gas and brake pedal, because they r almost touching the floor since i did my 4" old school body drop on my 1st gen s10. its been a real problem and it would a big help if some one could help me out wit this problem
Old 11-16-2003, 04:24 PM   #288
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section about a inch out of the arm that holds them in place, thats what i did.